Jeep Liberty Diesel

18889919394224

Comments

  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Skiduck,

    My understanding is that there are basically at least 2 types of hub “conversions”. One is the simple conversion where you remove some parts from the auto-locking hubs and install the manual locking device. The advantage of manual locking hubs is that once you locked them in you could go into and out of 4-wheel drive at moderate speed as long as the front wheels were straight and the rear wheels were not slipping. So, you would lock in the front hubs at the beginning of winter and not unlock them until spring, maybe. With the old style auto-locking hubs that did not have syncros in the transfer case, you had to stop to switch to 4 wheel drive. On some or most front hubs they would stay in 4-wheel position when you disengaged the lever unless you backed up. Then, if you were moving again and needed to re-engage the 4-wheel drive you had to stop again. Also, they tended to wear out and fail to engage at all.

    The other type of conversion that Warn provides for newer Jeeps, and a lot of different makes, is much more complicated and I don’t think that is what you are talking about. Since ’92, GCs have no such hub. A splined axle simply slips through the bearing assembly that is bolted to the spindle and a large nut locks the front hub and axle together at the bearing. When ever the wheel turns the axel turns whether in or out of 4-wheel drive. The Warn conversion provides front wheel bearings that must be greased and adjusted. The hubs attach to the bearings, the area that was splined on the old axel is smooth on the new axel and it is splined on the very end where it attaches to the Warn manual locking hub assembly.

    Now for the Liberty, I didn’t really look that close when I rotated tires by I think it is the same as the GC except the axles are exposed. I’m sure the ends of the axles are bolted solid to the front hubs but I don’t know what the large diameter housing looking things are on the front axles. I think they allow for front suspension articulation. I searched a little and didn’t see a conversion kit for the Liberty. Maybe one exists, I don’t know. Installation of this kit would be a RPITA.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Since ’92, GCs have no such hub

    I should have said, "Since at least '92......." as that is the oldest year GC that I have any experience with.
  • jkinzeljkinzel Member Posts: 735
    This issue may have come up before, but it might not hurt to revisit.
    Has anyone heard any facts, rumors or speculation as to the availability of the Liberty CRD in the 2007 model year? Does it meet the 2007 emissions rules?

    I ask this based on VW’s, alleged at this point, removal of TDI’s in the 2007 model year.
  • alljeepalljeep Member Posts: 35
    New TSB for all 2005 CRD. TSB 18-009-06 and is the updated and improved version of TSB 18-018-05 from mid-2005.

    Also, any 2006 model built prior to January 1, 2006 gets approximately the same update under a different TSB number listed as TSB 18-008-06.

    "Improvement to torque converter operation and durability.
    Improved glow plug operation and durability.
    Improved Security Key Immobilizer (SKIM) system operation to prevent a possible no-start condition when the SKIM module and/or ECM is replaced.

    If a vehicle is in for service perform the Repair Procedure."
  • alljeepalljeep Member Posts: 35
    alljeep: Have you got your CRD problems worked out? I sure hope so.

    Farout


    Everything seems perfect right now. I'm scheduled for a new TSB on Monday. TSB 18-009-06.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    jkinzel: I called the DCX customer service and talked to them about an issue, and then asked about the 2007 CRD. They were sure that the CRD WILL meet the epa requirements. That the CRD VM Motori already has a CRD that meets that epa for 2007. The biggest thing as they said is how people respond to the diesel. By what I see around here is there are several 2005 CRD's on lots sitting. Perhaps these dealers are wanting a high price for them. My dealer sells then pretty fast, because the sales persons know the product and they ask for feed back from the people who bring then for service.
    I keep looking at the Jeep build out dates, and there are no restrictions, and usually the last order date in the past has been May, so that is getting closer.
    I personally have never seen an add on tv for the Liberty CRD, have you?

    Farout
  • jkinzeljkinzel Member Posts: 735
    farout
    Thanks for the information.

    Have I ever seen an add for a CRD? NO. Infact I don't see a lot of adds for Liberty's.

    Can't recall if you live on the right or left side of the country. I live in Washington State and the Liberty CRD's seem to move in spurts. One month a dealer will have a few, then gone. A few 05's on the lots three months ago and now they are gone.

    Where I live I don’t see a lot of Liberty’s and have never seem a CRD on the road. I do see a few VW TDI’s and a lot of VW gas. A lot of the population is made up of tree hugging transplanted Calif’s and a few from Colorado. Lots of Escalade’s, Suburban’s and Expadition’s, plus a fair amount of Hummers thrown in. They are really doing their part to keep Washington and the Middle East green. :blush:
  • bvcrdbvcrd Member Posts: 196
    Yep, here in Colorado, there are tree huggers behind....well, every tree. Here, they do a general Liberty commercial that involves the Liberty along with the bigger stuff. I have personally seen lots of CRDs around here as well as 3.7s. I'd say there are at least 10 Libertys in our small town of 2500. Maybe 3-4 of them including mine is a CRD. I have the only one with the splash guards though.
  • wishfishmorewishfishmore Member Posts: 3
    Farout

    Thanks for the reply.

    The parts were in the US and are in the restricted category. They simply were not shipped promptly the first time, shipping was better the second time.

    After two weeks the dealer has actually tested the oil pressure and found it does not flucuate when the light and chime come on. I was disapointed they did not verify the pressure before dropping the oil pan to replace the pressure regulator. I guess having an electrical problem is better than the wear that would have been occuring when the oil pressure dropped. The dealer is now telling me I should have the truck back next week, three weeks to fix a problem, I am not impressed.

    I really like the truck but I have reservations about this particular Liberty and the level of service from the dealer and Jeep. I am considering filing the Lemon law complaint form in case this goes another week which, sadly, would not surprize me based on what has happened so far.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    jkinzel: I am in the middle and there are lots of Liberty's. However I have yet to spot another CRD. I know of one dealer who has sold three and never had one come back for service. They most likely bought there for the price and returned to the city where they lived. Some of these far out dealers can really cut a good deal. That plus they don't add extra for dealers fee, which in Kansas City I have seen as high as $250. For what? It's sorta like the days of Scotch Guarding, undercoating, paint sealing, and the list is as long as one can think of extra items that have a 1000% markup.
    Around Lake of the Ozarks. we have the same gas conserving Escalade's and Hummers...anything that represents status and a big ego. These are usually the ones towing a 30' boat going 70mph in a 45mph area passing everything, and when going up a two lane hill have 20 cars behind them, totally ignoring the turn off for others to pass. It's funny because a large percent are out of state cars. These are the same who drive with high beams at night, and ride your bumper if you are ahead of them. Most of these come from Kansas or Illinois. We seldom see many California plates. However if those in California ever got wind of how reasonable housing and retirement is here there would be no shore line left. I am glad no one knows but us two.

    Farout
  • whisky6whisky6 Member Posts: 7
    HI,ON THE DICCUSSION ON THE COST DIESEL FUEL AS COMPARED TO GAS,OUT HERE IN WASHINGTON STATE THE PRICE OF DIESEL IS 2.93 PER/GAL AND REGULAR GAS IS ABOUT 2.43 PER/GAL,AND DUE TO BETTER FUEL MILEAGE OF DIESEL,IF DIESEL 25% BETTER THAN GAS PER/GAL THEN YOU SEE WHY DIESEL IS COST MORE SO BUYING CRD AT 50 CENTS PER/GAL MORE IS HARD TO TAKE,THE LOWEST PRICE I HAVE SEEN FOR A JEEP CRD IS ABOUT 24,000 DOLLARS
    THANK,S WHISKY6
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Hi, Whisky! Welcome aboard.

    You may also want to share that information in the Report Your Local Gas Prices Here discussion.

    I recommend turning off your CAPS LOCK since people tend to ignore messages written in ALL CAPS.

    tidester, host
  • whitgallmanwhitgallman Member Posts: 121
    Thanks for the towing notes and tip on the cover hats.
    I got the towing package too.
    I'm looking for someone who has rigged their CRD TO BE TOWED, like behind an RV. If you hear from someone, I'd like to hear from their experiences.
    build date 8/05 4,400 mi, no problems.
  • rnaborsrnabors Member Posts: 25
    I tow my CRD behind my 40' Ultimate Advantage. I use a Sterling tow bar. It tows great, is easy to set up, and the Roadmaster hidden mounts can not be seen on the CRD when the tow bar is not attached. Great toad and great daily driver.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    :cry: After the dealer change my oil and engine light came on!,by a miracle #2 glowplug is gone Im still been waiting for the plug after a week gone by. Should I go to another dealer or should I wait. I am using the libby with the light on, seems to be running ok.
  • skiduckskiduck Member Posts: 49
    If you are only towing your libby once then I have rented a car dolly and put the transfer case in neutral and it towed fine. If you wanted to buy a dolly then they are going new for about $900 and I hear that you can sell them used with little problem. Don't try to back up with the dolly, because it has a center pin that swivels and is very tough to back up straight even without a towed vehicle attached to the dolly. I have an 05 CRD with a build date of 6/05 and have had some of the transmission shudders and engine stalling out problems that have been mentioned in this forum, so I hope you don't. Take note of some of the TSB's mentioned here just in case. Good Luck
  • skiduckskiduck Member Posts: 49
    Thanks siberia for your reply(#4654) I was thinking that un-coupling the front drive from always spinning would help on wear and tear and fuel mileage. I posted earlier about draining the front and rear differentials. The owners manual says to do it at 25K miles and that there should be a drain plug, but I don't see where so I think that we would have to take off the differential cover and then drain it and then apply a new gasket and sealent. What has the rest of the group done? Thanks again.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    However if those in California ever got wind of how reasonable housing and retirement is here there would be no shore line left. I am glad no one knows but us two.

    I have tried to get my wife interested in your area as a place to retire. I don't think I will get her out of San Diego. She says too many bugs. Like we don't have a fair share of creepy critters. We are going to travel that area soon, as I have a cousin in Branson. Sounds beautiful to me.
  • synlubessynlubes Member Posts: 184
    you would love branson i live in southeast ks and go to branson often will cost about half there than california
  • bvcrdbvcrd Member Posts: 196
    Only if he likes rush hour traffic. It is stop, and go and stop again. I lived 30 miles from there and worked for Silver Dollar City building rides for 4 years. Where in SE Kansas? I lived in Labette and Oswego and Hallowell.
  • buells1buells1 Member Posts: 2
    I only have 800 miles on my Liberty CRD, but I did get my order for Amsoil 5w-40 European Oil. I may change it at 7,000 miles. Forgot to order my Amsoil oil filter.......rats! I LOVE my new Liberty! Anyone else using Amsoil?
  • whitgallmanwhitgallman Member Posts: 121
    Thanks for your reply!
    When you say easy to set up, did you put the Roadmaster hidden mount parts on yourself? or have the RV dealer do it?
    Did you have to cut the lower air dam, lower facia or anything?
    Did you get an auxiliary brake unit for the Jeep?(The Advantage sends a stop signal to the Jeep's brakes to tell it to help stop.)
    What do you do to the steering wheel while towing the Libby? Is the column lock engaged or do you leave the key in it?
    Did it take a big investment? like $1500.
    Any good web sites where I can get more info?
  • whitgallmanwhitgallman Member Posts: 121
    I don't mean this to sound like a smart [non-permissible content removed] reply. I love to find the best price on diesel fuel and try for brag-able fuel economy. But folks who make their auto choices strictly on lowest cost per mile end up driving only used gray Honda Civics until they rust out from under them and drive no more that 55 mph in the left lane.
    Jeep drivers accept a little extra cost per mile for a machine that can withstand rugged landscape either because they need to traverse the rugged roads or wish to someday.
    Diesel engine owners either have memories or fantasies of truckerhood, appreciate the advantages of diesels over gas engines like the higher torque, the lower vibration frequencies, longevity (unless they had an Olds diesel) or the smell, any one of which can be a side effect of being a mechanical engineer. There is also the visionary personality aspect of the scientifically savvy who knows that making biodiesel is easier than making ethanol fuel and alturistically hope for a cleaner environment or national freedom from OPEC.
    While the afore mentioned aspects apply somewhat to this writer, the most important reason for my diesel ownership is that alien spacecraft intent upon abducting human auto occupants for their various genetic experiments and to re program them for the forthcoming planetary invasion, cannot stop the diesel car by interrupting the high voltage spark ignition system as they can gas engined cars. A Diesel Jeep offers the added ability to evade the alien beings by going off road as the roads will be blocked by all the pusilanimous little gray Honda Civics driven by penny pinchers. So if you truly support Family Values, you will protect your family in a Diesel Jeep.
    Now is not the time to pinch pennies.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Yeah, Skiduck, you do have to remove the front cover. It's pretty easy, though. The back 2 bolt holes are slotted and the front 2 are recessed. Just remove the front 2 bolts, loosen the back 2 and slide it off. The front diff has a drain plug and the rear does not (remove cover). The front drain plug requires an allen wrench.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Yeah, but the aliens are using EMF lasers now. But gray paint reflects it. :shades:

    Steve, Host
  • skiduckskiduck Member Posts: 49
    Did you replace the gasket and sealant. I will have to look at it closer when it warms up. I did not see a drain plug on either but I was in a rush to go to work. Thanks again.
  • synlubessynlubes Member Posts: 184
    i live in chanute ks spent a lot of time in parsons and oswego when is was young graduated in nineteen fifty six my wives grandfather helped build the trains in silver dollar city made them look american because were german at that time
  • synlubessynlubes Member Posts: 184
    have sold and used amsoil four twenty five years you cant go wrong may try the cetane boost i have had no egr valve problems yet nock on wood twelve thousand miles
  • skiduckskiduck Member Posts: 49
    I live in MD and have also not saw many other CRD's. I did some looking on CARMAX website and found several 05 CRD's at there 3 new car stores( Atlanta, LA, Orlando ) and saw some for $7K below MSRP. If Jeep can get these TSB's straightened out with the problems that I read on this forum and in my 05's case then I think it will be a real good deal for anyone looking for an SUV for around $20k. I wish I had looked at CARMAX's website before I bought mine in Baltimore. I would have taken alittle vacation to FLA and drove home or had it shipped. Live and learn. I could not find an 06 CRD on this site though? I also couldn't believe how many 06 2WD Gas Libbys are on the lot. It just seems a waste to have a 2WD SUV, but then again I like the snow and hate the heat. I hope everyone didn't drink too much Green Beer yesterday.
  • bvcrdbvcrd Member Posts: 196
    My uncle lived in Chanute. It was fun working in SDC. Had to make new stuff look 100 years old. My arms were used to make a mold for the prisoners arms in the Flooded Mine ride. Times in Branson have changed with all the shows. I remember when you could drive through there and not even have to hit your brakes. The locals avoid it like the plauge.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    nescosmo: I am not sure at all, but I think the only time the glow plug is used is to initially start the engine, after that point the high compression ignites the fuel. Maybe someone with more knowledge might jump in.

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    whitgallman: I am glad that someone else is convinced that we are are not alone on planet earth! The Jeep factory has a special roof designed to keep the lazar guns from blasting the factory workers. Also the B-5 fuel fumes are toxic for those aliens from other planets.
    I bought my crd so I can melt down the fat from aliens bodies and use them for Alien diesel fuel. Until they land and I can shoot one, I will continue to buy this earth fuel.

    Farout
  • bvcrdbvcrd Member Posts: 196
    Farout, yor are WAY OUT THERE for sure! :-) Actually, the alien bodies don't carry around that much fat. I think they are consuming some sort of rice bi-product that they get from the Japaness folks in exchange for alien techknowledgy. They ran out of Soylent Green about 2 light years back and were desperate. Remember where Soylent Green comes from?
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    synlubes: Ok so what makes Amsoil so good? Does it have a 0-40 syn oil? So far with 11400 miles and only using PS cetane booster twice and no noticeable difference, I too have had no egr problems. My build date is 06/14/05. I have used Mobil oil for more than 11 years. My 1996 Dodge Neon has 179,000 on the original engine as still gets 29 mpg. And I change oil about every 5000 miles. I personally think that most oil (except Penzoil and Quaker State oil) are pretty good for the average driver, if changed at no more than 7500 miles. The Yellow Cabs in New York are reportedly changed at 7500 miles ay a very significant cost savings. Any thoughts about this?

    Farout
  • whitgallmanwhitgallman Member Posts: 121
    Just came from WalMart and my heart raced when I saw the 5 qt jug of Mobil 1 Truck & SUV for $20. I grabbed 2 jugs (of oil, Steve) BUT then my eyes focused on the lable. It's 5W-30, not our 5W-40. Becareful here. We don't use any 30 wgt because the High Temp/High Shear test (ASTM D-4683) result is too low.

    Steve Host. Not the gray on penny pincher's ancient gray Honda's because their paint has never known car wax. No reflectivity left in the surface!
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    bvcrd: I am sure they have found a way to make the "Green" look like fresh ground beef! Why do think some large nation wide food chain no longer has a butcher, and all the meat comes pre packaged and prepriced, with gas in the package to prevent the meat from changing colors? Now we have "Soylent Red".
    They have to do something with all these baby boomers that will be passing away in a decade or so...uck!
  • whitgallmanwhitgallman Member Posts: 121
    Penzoil's "pure base" base stock is Group II severely hydrocracked, ISO de-waxed from the "Paramins" plant that they share with Conoco-Phillips, designed on the Chevron process. This stock has the oxidation stability of a synthetic like Mobil 1. Quaker State probably uses the same base stock now because Penzoil owns them and Paramins makes lots of group II white base stock. Pick another name for cheap basic oil.
    Not many brands use regular mineral oil anymore. Mobil 5000 mi oil and Exxon Superflos. I think regular Castrol GTX is too.
    Castrol is that oil that "frees your engine be what it wants to be". "No other oil gives your car higher horsepower"
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    whitgallman: Wally's World also carries the Mobil 5-40 syn truck a& Suv. I have given more thought about letting them change my oil for $38. instead of the dealers $92. I just have not gained the confidence that they can do the oil change. I am not sure the have the 8 mil allen ratchet. They just might bugger up the plug or washer. Then I would have to go to the dealer with a red face. I will most likely stay with the dealer.
    Like Red Green says " I am a man, I can change,......if I have to!" well maybe

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    whitgallman: a couple decades ago I use to pull engines out of cars and trucks. After I pulled the engines we took the engine completely apart and hot tanked everything. Every engine that used Penzoil or QuakerState were loaded with thick sludge. Experience is a great witness as to what works and what doesn't. Is paramins what I would call waxie stuff?
    I saw a heat test on Castrol, I used to use it until I SAW HOW IT FAILED THE LOW HEAT TEST. I have never had a sludge build up with Mobil....so far anyway.

    Farout
  • synlubessynlubes Member Posts: 184
    mobil oil is a good product have no problem with it i just dont make any money when you by it mobil and amsoil have always had a good relationship they wer the first synthetic oils api approved amsoil in nineteen seventy two mobil in nineteen seventy five amsoil does have a 0-40 but for motorcycles will run in cars but not european approved
  • whitgallmanwhitgallman Member Posts: 121
    Thanks Farout for your note. Paramins is the name of the new refinery that make lots of Group II base stocks. I think it came on line in the last 4 or 5 years. Their oil deserves another chance now for those that use regular oil. I'd pick a group II over regular solvent dewaxed mineral oils.

    Wally World had 0W-40 for $5.50 a quart. I didn't see the 5W-40 M1 at this Wally World.

    What is your receipe for supponification of aliens? You have to remember their systems can have copper based or vanadium based blood. The vanadium is OK but don't use the copper based ones as the copper will plate out on the cylinder heads.

    Have you read "The Urantia Book"? Check out paper #65 "The Overcontrol of Evolution" See "WWW.Urantia.com"
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Did you replace the gasket and sealant. I will have to look at it closer when it warms up.

    Like you, I am waiting for warm weather also. I took the front cover off when I changed oil just to look it over. That's when I saw the front diff (allen) drain plug. I didn't look at the rear diff close enough to see if it uses a gasket or sealer. I will put synthetic in both diffs - don't know what brand yet.
  • lightnin3lightnin3 Member Posts: 153
    Hi Farout...

    Why not try out Wally world ??
    save yourself the $$$ 's plus your jeep will perform better.

    What I suggest is bring your own oil ,filter ,and 8 mm socket ,for the mechanic.
    when your car is ready to go up on the hoist just go there to remind the mechanic not to loose the washer under the plug.

    Trust me you'll be a happy camper you did ;)

    I do it all the time in the winter when it is too cold out to do my own.I just bring it in to jiffy lube.zip ,zip done...

    Here's to hoping you end up with an old european mechanic
    well if you don't , at the very least it'll be a converstion piece .

    good luck ..
    lightnin3
  • dadx3dadx3 Member Posts: 6
    Found it in the booklet that explains the roadside assistance coverage.
  • frank9425frank9425 Member Posts: 11
    Raymc,
    No BP Diesel in Monmouth County and haven't seen any in Ocean either. I find I consistently get better milage with CITGO, compared to Sunoco, Gulf, Mobil and Valero. Another reason for our poor milage (22-23) is the winter blend of diesel we use. Number 2 diesel is mixed with number 1 during the winter months to prevent gelling. Unfortunately number 1 has few BTU/volume than number 2 thereby giving another reason for poorer milage here in the frozen north.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Farout. When I start the libby in the mourning I look very close to the glowplugs light, it flash for a second and when I start it start ok and run good all day long but with the engine light on. I read the code and it said P1236 call the dealer and told them about the code # the service desk person said that he did not know and the tech could not talk to me because he was very busy. Should I go to another dealer or should I wait for the part to come in. WHAT A FIASCO.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Oil, mileage, egr valves and tires are only part of the interrest one can have about the Liberty CRD.
    I needed to get rid of two huge trees caught in the weeds and mud since 8 years. This is what I managed to do in 1st Lo gear never revving above 1500 rpm:
    image
    image
    image
    This took me about one hour, and the engine wasn't even getting hot.
  • geedubbgeedubb Member Posts: 34
    My suggestion to all of you is try this. With the first start or if the car has been sitting for more than four hours let it idle for about 30 seconds before putting it into gear. This allows the pump(s) in the trans to fill everything. It has worked for me. When I first got my CRD last year, it would not move after starting it first thing in the morning. I called the dealer and they told me what I have written above. This was confirmed by a local Dodge dealer as Dodge has been using this trans longer than Jeep. There are two TSBs about this problem that I know of related to this drainback issue.

    I've had intermittent tranny shudder until my recent trip to Colorado. The shuddering wasn't consistant but annoying when it did happen. I always let the engine idle for a couple of minutes before driving so I think this theory is incorrect.

    Gary (JMO)
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    My last experience with WM is they put 8 quarts in my 4.7 V-* Dakota which holds 6 quarts. they were emphatic I did not know what I was talking about. I made them take out 2 quarts. They made me sign a paper saying if the engine was too low on oil I would take full blame. I even showed them the owners manual what it said.
    Most of these oil changers are young inexperienced $6. an hour poor kids. Unless I see someone old enough to shave I doubt I will give them a chance.
    I even had my Neon come out with a loose oil plug, dripping oil where they parked it. I was slightly upset, and asked the tec if this was normal. Then he found he had put in Havoline rather than Mobil. They offered me a free oil change next time if I took it as it was with wrong oil. I said no, as I was not coming back. They dumped the 10-30 and put the Molil 5-30. I have not been back to have them do the work. I think you can see why I am slightly apprehensive.

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Have you taken you CRD to the dealer and had them do the service Bul. They drained the trans and replaced the filter. I have never had trans. shutter. I do about every 500 miles havea jittery engine, and when that happensd I drop speed to allow 2 gear take off the OD and run at 4000 rpm for maybe a min. or so. It goes away and it works for me that's all I know. I wish you well.

    Farout
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