Jeep Liberty Diesel

sfcjcl

I got a swingaway cargo carrier for my CRD (to haul stuff to darn dirty and for camping and such). The problem with this unit in working with the Libertys in general is the release pin for the swing arm. They build the darn things to tall (3") and the spare tire won't clear it. Well, what do you know, I found a fabricator here in Louisville, Ky and 15 min and $25 later I've got a much better release pin and full use of my truck. If anybody wants a digital picture of what I had done, just email me. :shades:

sfcjcl

I have pulled a utility trailer with my CRD for about a 100 miles. I would estimate that the total wieght of the cargo and trailer was about 2500 lbs. Except for braking, I really couldn't tell it was back there. My trip was almost completely interstate and I maintained 60 to 65 mph at about 2600 rpm. That's more rpms than normal, but that is all.

geedubb

I had the same problem when buying a hitch mounted swing away bike rack. It was about 1.5" too short in the receiver tongue to clear the spare tire. I found a tongue/hitch extension but what a pain in the tail.....

sure beat the heck out of trying to get the bike off/on the top of the Libby

Gary

massappeal106

Thanks for all the wonderful information-- it's been very helpful during my brief experience with my 2006 crd. Quick note and then question.

I've been running my CRD with B60 the last couple of days with no issues. Although I've experience a small reduction in power, the reduction in engine noise more than makes up for it.

My question(s) are as follows: First, what's the best way to break in the engine? The second is what should I expect to pay for an oil change?

Much thanks!

caribou1

Off my nose, it seems your transmission controller forced the gearbox to remain in 4th gear with the converter locked because there was too much load. This means the truck should have been able to go faster for the transmission to shift into 5th. The controller uses a mapping feature to compare throttle position sensor versus speed / load. When the engine controller "says" it's giving all it has, the transmission stays where it is.

farmer52

Congrats on your recent purchase. Where are you located that you can get B60 fuel? I have a 2006 CRD ordered that should be here any day. It was built on March 21st.

My plans for breakin are to drain the factory fill engine oil at about 500 miles to get all the "crap" out of the engine. Then I will fill with Shell Rotella T 15W-40 and run for another 2500-3000 miles. Then drain the 15W-40 and fill with Rotella T 5W-40 Synthetic. I work for a company involved in the oil business and all my contacts say to use a heavier oil for good breakin. BTW, I live 60 miles from the office with 90% interstate driving (60-65 mph).

I bought six (6) MOPAR oil filters (Made in Italy)($12.50 list and $9.37 my cost). Once the filters are used I plan to switch to NAPA Gold oil filters ($5.99 list). They are cheaper than MOPAR but are a good quality filter made by WIX. A side note: the filter element is actually supplied by Donaldson who is one of the top filter manufacturers.

I do my own oil/filter changes. I plan to use BP Supreme Diesel fuel and add Stanadyne Performance additive to each tank.

Good luck!

crd4me2

geedubb,
let me start by saying, for the record and for the forum, that other than this shudder issue - both the husband and I are VERY happy with our CRD. He owns a Ram 2500 diesel, I traded in a Yukon, and we both agree the Liberty was well worth the 5 month wait from build order.
The shudder is just a little annoying, but we are still getting great mileage = avg. 23-24mpg. We drive mostly highway and have 1800 miles on it now.
I wish not to sound like I'm complaining here, just sharing so others like me can learn what this might be and how to quickly solve it. I appreciate the info I've found on the forum and will continue to use it to educate myself on my new CRD. This shudder issue just seems a little elusive, especially since it doesn't throw a code. I'll be curious to see if the torque converter they put in helps mine - and what you're service techs come up with. I know the new TSB didn't work.
until the next report...
Michelle in NM

zachinmi

For those who are doing their own oil changes on the CRD, how are you lifting it off the ground to reach the drain plug and filter? I'm debating jack ramps vs. jack/jackstands vs. any other options. A friend has a nice hydraulic lift in his garage, but with his low ceiling height we can only get the Jeep about 18" off the ground before it approachs the roof - I know that sounds better than the height you could get with ramps, but all the machinery of the lift gets in the way when it's that low and it actually seems easier to work on with ramps. I'd appreciate any tips. I have moderate experience changing oil on cars and motorcycles, but am definitely not an expert.

retmil46

If you don't mind laying on your back, you don't need any ramps. High enough off the ground I can crawl underneath the whole vehicle sitting in the driveway, even with skid plates. Drain plug and filter are close enough that a good sized pan will do for both without having to reposition it. Laying down beside the vehicle on the passenger side, for me at least, both the drain plug and filter are within easy reach. If you have skid plates, it's just a matter of 4 bolts and you can drop the center skid plate out of the way. Other than needing an 8 mm allen head socket for the plug, this is the easiest vehicle to change oil and filter on I've ever messed with.

drfurnas

While our CRD was being built, I posed the same question to Nicola Frabetti (nfrabetti@vmmotori.com), the post-sales, automotive sector customer service representative for VM Motori. Mr. Frabetti informed me there are no break-in considerations for the consumer beyond using the proper oil and following the recommended service intervals. VM actually puts the engines through a very specific and closely monitored break-in process at the factory before they are shipped to DC for installation in the Liberty CRD.

massappeal106

Farmer,

Congrats on your purchase! I think you'll enjoy it.

I have a small company that produces biodiesel in Salt Lake City. As spring progresses, I may run higher levels, although not quite sure yet.

All members,

What has the success been running high levels ob biodiesel?

Much thanks!

bvcrd

You have mirrored everything I just changed the oil again at 2000 miles and now I am on a 3000 miles rotation. I never went with the MOPAR filters though. NAPA Gold for me.

supertech

Gary, I purchaced the JEEP bike rack. It works great. you have to remove the spare It bolts to the mount then reinstall the tire then using a large wing nut it mounts on the spare though the center. The bike opens with the tail gate and spare offers some cushion for it.

stucolts

Motors today require a very little break in period they are put together with much tighter tolerances than in the past. For this reason many are factory filled with synthetic oil. The crd is filled with 5w40 or 0w40 mobile one synthetic. I recommend following the owners manual, 6500 city driving or 12000 if your milles are highway. If your driving habit are in the middle adjust accordingly. You must use 0w40 or 5w40 SYNTHETIC oil only. I would use 5w40 unless you are in a very cold climate -15 degeses farenhite. The price of an oil change expect around $50. I do my own for about $26.

patentguy

I have used B20 for about half my fill ups and I find the CRD runs smoother with it. Mileage is about the same, maybe a little less but not much. I have 13,000 miles so far on the CRD and no problems.

zachinmi

I run B20 whenever possible (locally, here in central lower Michigan, that is Soy-based biodiesel). Unfortunately the only close by station is 20 miles away. I calculate the percentage of pure biodiesel in the tank, based on how much petrodiesel is left in the tank (taking into account any biodiesel from prior fills) and have yet to surpass 14% in the tank. My CRD runs noticeably better, in terms of less noise, less vibration, a nicer smell to the exhaust fumes, and little to no smoke on cold start-up, when the percent biodiesel in the tank is over 5%. I have had no problems at all with B20. Now if only I can get some closer station to carry it! My CRD runs kind of rough on generic petrodiesel from whatever station, though seems almost as happy on "premium diesel" from one local station (Meijer - not a national brand) as it is on B20. I have tried using PowerService diesel fuel additive with petrodiesel and have not felt any significant difference; nothing like what I get from running B20. I track mpg for each tank and have not noticed any difference plus or minus when running B20.

dzlmyster

Just completed my first oil change on my 06 CRD, at 3000 miles. I had a lot of short trips since I bought it in early December. The oil pan plug has a copper washer. I have reused copper washers over and over in many instances by annealling them. This requires heating the washer to reddish colour and quickly dipping it in water. You will find the washer becomes softened and will seal properly over many uses. I also continue to use the 0-40 Mobil and bought it by the case of 6 litres, at a more reasonable price through our local Esso (Mobil) dealer here in Canada. Chrysler wanted just over $13.00 Canadian. I got it for $7.85 CDN. It is not available at Walmart here. I did buy the filter from Chrysler which was $20.00 CDN.
I also cleaned out my turbo air hoses on both sides of the intercooler. They have oil in them although not a lot. The crank case breather is definitely the cause and I am looking into a Pro Vent addition. Have to get rid of these oily fumes from contaminating the system.
So far I am pleased with the engine and tranny combination, although I am careful to deselect cruise control in hilly areas, as I don't like the way the tranny kicks down two gears and causes the engine to rev up to 4K. I have owned diesels over the last 25 years, including three VW golf's and a '81 Datsun pickup.
I enjoy the forum and discussions that come up, which I find helpful.

Regards
Dzlmyster

bmartinpe

With all the discussion about oil changes, no one has ever mentioned buying Chrysler's Essential Care Package. I got 28 oil changes for $625 or about $22 per change. I can't even buy a crankcase full of synthetic oil that cheap.

I just turned 13,000 miles on my CRD that I bought last Labor Day. The fuel economy is slowly improving to the 22-23 MPG range. We did book 26.8 MPG on a 360 mile trip this last week, but I have found that when I have a really good fuel economy tank, the next tank tends to show fewer MPG.

towwme

stucolts: Where do you get 7 quarts of Mobil 1 and a filter for $26.00? I can't even buy the oil for $26.00. I have been paying the dealer to do oil changes and chassis lub, price $85.00, but if it can be done for $26.00... Of course, the dealer also tops off the master cylinder, power steering fluid, trans, differentials, window washer...

Another note: Just turning over 15K, fuel mileage was 476 miles and 17.9 gallons (US) 26.59PMG! this is the second time since ownership that it got over 24.5. My driving is 99%+ highway.

geedubb

Supertech-
Thanks, I should have looked for the Jeep accessories...Isn't there a load limit to this configuration? I sometimes carry 4 MTB bikes which is why I opted for the Thule hitch rack. The weight can reach close to 120 lbs or more if Downhill bikes are on board.
Gary

geedubb

crd4me2 wrote
This shudder issue just seems a little elusive, especially since it doesn't throw a code. I'll be curious to see if the torque converter they put in helps mine - and what you're service techs come up with. I know the new TSB didn't work.
until the next report...

You're right about the latest TSB and computer flash not helping with the shudder. I experience it again yesterday. It always happens after a hard acceleration and then letting off the pedal. It's just annoying that nobody seems to know what the problem is. Can't wait to see if the TC changeout helps.
Other than this and the recent drop in fuel efficiencey I too am happy with my Libberty. I still have my '83 Chevy Blazer, though. Just can't seem to get rid of it!
Gary

nylib

I bought my Liberty diesel new in April '05 while I was vacationing in Florida. I had originally driven my '96 F150 from NY to Florida when the truck began to give me major problems. As thing would go, I bought a diesel Liberty, in part, because it qualified for one of the exemptions stated by the NYS DMV. Their MV-74 form states " I purchased this vehicle outside New York State, to replace my previous vehicle that was damaged, stolen or became inoperative while I was outside New York"
The NY Dept Of Envir. Consv. is now conducting an investigation on my bringing and registering the vehicle in the NYS. I've had to provide a host of documentations including them photographing the emissions name plate on the Liberty. I'm not sure of the outcome yet but I can for see having to fight them in court.
The Diesel Liberty has been great. I can't say the same for NYS.
I'll keep you posted.

bvcrd

They are probably just dotting the "I"s and crossing the "T"s. I wouldn't worry too much. If they have a provision to bringing one in like you said, they have no recourse.

farout

crd4me2: There are those who will not agree with this, but what's more important is what does DCX and your Owners Manual says. The 2--5 Owners Manual DOES NOTmention using even B-5! I called the factory Tec and was told they put B-5 in at the factory as a good will gesture for the state of Ohio. Further more there is a huge issue of consistent quality of anything over B-5. The Owners Manual for the 2006 CRD does say that B-5 is ok to use.
I am sure you are doing fine with B-60 for now, however the engine is NOT designed for that grade. So use if you are confident that your EGR can hold up and or other parts. I most certainly would use a Cetane/Anti gel additive like PS to keep your B-60 from gelling up. I don't know how many miles you drive but if less than a tank full a week I would stay away from anything over B-5.
As for the oil change, again this is let the buyer be ware. The Owners Manual says Mobil 1 Syn. 0-40 or 5-40. I change my oil every 9,000 miles at the dealer. The price I paid the last time was $85. There is a dealer near by that charges $72 + disposal fee $5. and Tax which comes close to the same. I like the dealer because the dealer I use has treated me well and I have bought 2 Jeeps from them, so I have a good relationship with the Service manager and the 2 CRD tec's. Now there is a reason for the weight and being synthetic. Perhaps the brand may be ok with some other brand, but I have used Mobil for 20 years and have NEVER had a problem. I have a 1996 Dodge Neon with 179,000 and has the original engine. I like mobil and have no reason to change.
Like I said there is all kinds of ideas, but You can't go wrong if you go by the Owners manual, and keep your receipts, and there is never a doubt!

Farout

farout

farmer52: Before you change your oil at 500 miles, and change to 15-40 and all that stuff, talk to the CRD tec at the dealer your getting it from. What you say you are going to do is NOT WHAT THE OWNERS MANUAL SAYS TO DO. So do as you feel is best but at least get some professional advice and read the manual. You can't go wrong by going by the manual and that's what pays for any repair under warranty. Farout

farout

drfurnas: I am so glad to see someone other than me say the same thing! If this engine with the close tollerances had any metal in the oil it might well destroy the engine. V. M. Motori has built over 500,000 for DCX from about 1991. I really am sure they know what they are doing, especia;;y when it comes to the oil and the additives they do not think is wise to use. Thanks for your note!

Farout

stucolts

Hi towwme in regards to oil change. Walmart sells it for $20 in a 5 qt container. I forgot about the other 2 qts needed, add $9 sorry $35 is about the best price doing it yourself.

stucolts

Hi bmartinpe when you get that oil change at DC watch them put your oil in is it synthetic oil. These dealers sell a Chrysler's Essential Care Package not knowing your liberty requires synthetic oil. If they are putting it in it is a great deel.

bvcrd

It is a good idea to get the oil out early. This is THE most important thing you can do when buying a new vehicle as told to me buy a head tech at my dealer. Remember, they are in the market of selling cars. If yours lasts longer, good for you and bad for them.

bvcrd

My 2006 Owners Manual says it is OK to go with B-5%. Your Neon wasn't a diesel. I prefer to use Rotella for it's anti-soot qualities specifically made for diesels. I know people that have gotten well over 300,000 miles using it.

farout

bvcrd: I am sure your tec said so. But as you might have noticed there is a wide scope of true knowledge about the CRD and a lot is wrong. I still believe that the factory brake in solves the issue of changing the oil soon. However it can't hurt a thing if you change it early. I know the older theory of changing oil before 500 miles but that was back in the early sixties. Good luck and thanks for the note.

Farout

farout

bvcrd: Your are right about the Neon not being a diesel, however, it is not real often a 96 Neon goes 179,000 miles. I am sure hat if it were not for good care it would not of lasted. I also believe that even with Shell oil or some good oil I could have done just as well. I just think that Mobil does a good job and I would just as well stick with something that works. If Rotella does a good job for you stick with it. I certainly was not saying that there are not other good oils.
For some (dumb) reason the issue of Bio fuel was not even addressed in the 05 Owners manual. But in a note from the" contact us" Jeep web site, they assured me B-5 was acceptable. As you may know DCX never extends themself more than they feel safe, so they can look for normal ware. What ever their "normal" is. Good to hear from you.

Farout

synlubes

like i have said before mobile is a good product but the company has told us to change every three thousand miles with mobil one when the europeans could run ten thousand miles now they say fifteen thousand miles i dont deal with companys that lie to me

bvcrd

The service manager sort of freaked when I told him it had 570 miles and I was in for my 1 free oil change. Course, he wants to service our stuff. That's what he lives for. The tech , I feel, was sort of giving my a behind the scenes wink as if to say, "I think it is good what you are doing." For me, It's probably so I can sleep at night and at least tell myself that I did all I could. I'd hate for the "filings" if any to cause some premature wear.

bvcrd

Yea, I think Mobil 1 is a good oil. I use it in my Buick. I'm not completely sold on the idea of it in out CRDs though. I have heard things. Scary to me. Like it vaporizing and going into hoses and such. Could be nothing. I don't know. The tech at the dealership who runs a Cummins swears by the Rotella. I figure he ought to know. I am not against believing in some sort of conspiracy between Mobil 1 and DC. Course, I believe in aliens too.

gagrice

I can't say the same for NYS.

They wannabe just like CA. If diesel was dirty why don't they just require low sulfur like CA did? But of course CA is still bad about allowing diesel cars. Only big trucks allowed with diesel.

bvcrd

So if I go visit San Diego, will they stop me at the border and say, keep that filthy rig out of our clean state?

supertech

Sorry Gary this is just a 2 bike rack

moparbad

CA will say "welcome to the state with the cleanest diesel fuel in the USA where only non-residents are allowed to buy and operate the cleanest new passenger vehicle diesels in the USA".

farout

bvcrd: I can't speak for NY but, in CA if you have your crd registered in another state for (I think is) six months then you can register it but there is a smog penniality. On my 2002 Dakota it was going to be about $500. It never worked out to having to move back to CA, Thank the Lord!
By the way, those little creatures, from the Planet
that is from a long, long time ago, and far, far away. I think they are drinking my CRD's diesel, and replacing it with B-120. The CRD smells nice but there is pop corn coming out the tail pipe.

Farout

gagrice

I might add that my Alaska VW TDI runs great on the BP ULSD. The only thing I have used since the first tank from the Oregon dealer. I think it is a year now or you pay sales tax. Diesels have to have 7500 miles to be considered used.

buells1

Yep, just got in a case of it for my new CRD...........

ltcowboy

All - I just bought a new 06 CRD and love it! Does anyone have any thoughts on adding an aftermarket performance module for more power and economy? I found a couple of companies that make them. I own a 02 Dodge diesel and have seen them available for years, but I never tried one. Thanks - Ltcowboy

farout

Don't do anything to it, the CRD runs fine!

Farout

farmer52

farout: I have been testing Diesel engines and engine oil for over 30 years and I know what does and what does not work. I talked to Diesel engine engineers and lubricant engineers about what oil to use in my CRD. They all agree DCX's Diesel engine oil spec is out of date (CF-4 oil in an EGR engine is not good). CF-4 cannot handle the acid and soot from EGR engines. I prefer to rely on Diesel engine and oil experts rather than a dealer tech who has probably never seen a Diesel engine. All they are doing is repeating what DCX tells them. As for draining the oil at 500 miles, I agree the initial break-in at the factory and draining that oil goes a long way in flushing impurities out of the engine. BTW I would be curious to know what oil VM Motori uses when they green test the engines. There is casting core sand and machining debris that does not get flushed during the short factory run. I would rather be safe than sorry. The warranty on my 2006 CRD is only 36K miles which I will put on the first year. I would not need to change my oil and the engine should last that long. It is the next 144K+ miles that concerns me.

winter2

I am in full agreement that a CI-4 oil is required to keep the EGR in good working order. A CF oil will simply not hack it.

Even after ULSD becomes a fact, as I understand it, the cetane number will not improve all that much, thus the burn will not be as clean as it could be, thus again the need for CI-4 oil.

Also, check the Noack Volatility, ASTM-5800. Lower is better. Amsoil and RedLine 15W-40 oils have volatilities of 6.5% or less versus 13- 14% for other oils including Mobil 1 5W-40 or Shell Rotella 5W-40. Lower volatility yields a cleaner intake system.

Amsoil has reformulated their 5W-40 oil to meet VW specs.

zachinmi

For whatever it's worth, my local Walmart carries Shell Rotella-T Synthetic 5w-40 in gallon jugs for about $15 each, which would work out to about $24 in oil per oil change. This is a CI rated diesel oil. I'm getting my first oil change tomorrow for free, and after that I expect to be doing my own with either Rotella-T or Mobil 1, either way 5w-40 and CI rated.

nescosmo

farmer52 I am so tired of this dealerships that ever since they change my oil the crd is all out of shape. That is why today I dumped their oil and put Rotela 5w-40 with a Trasko-USA oil filter. and after 3 or 4 thousand miles I will put 15w-40 from Amsoil. and that is going to be it. I am so tired of this book mechanic that every time they see your crd they have to call DC ten thousand time for advice thanks for the tip. :mad:

farmer52

I forgot to mention CI-4 Plus oil carries the API CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, and CF-4 approvals. That means it can be used in place of any of these oil classifications. I would be very surprised if DCX voids a warranty for using a "better" oil. Although DCX can be full of surprises!

vtdog

Here is the link. You may need to be a "member", but its free to join if you want to see it. It is a good review of diesel's benefits and drawbacks using a diesel racer as the segue.

http://www.nytimes.com/2006/03/27/automobiles/27cars.html