Jeep Liberty Diesel

flht

I have read responses to towing with the CRD on pavement but wonder if anyone has experience with steep launch ramps and pulling a 2500 lb plus boat & trailer combo in and out of the water ?

geedubb

I haven't tried yet but I'd put it 4 wheel drive just as an aid. I've had other 4x4's that struggled on the wet concrete when only in 2 wheel usually empty trucks that like to spin the rear wheels anyway.

I'm hesitant to pull my 3400 lb boat with my Liberty especially when I have a nice big truck to use.

Gary

siberia

The paper folds of the intake were completely filled with a black powder soot. Has anyone else changed their air-filter and noticed this on the fresh air intake side of the filter?

Dzl_lou, my air filter was black but I don't think it was as bad as you describe. I have a very light soot deposit here and there. I have no idea where it's coming from, other than the exhaust. See post #3367.

siberia

... pulling a 2500 lb plus boat & trailer combo in and out of the water ?

Flht, I had absolutely no trouble pulling a 5,000 lb plus boat and trailer up a fairly steep wet ramp in AWD. The ramp was just wet, not slimy. It took very little throttle to do the job.

mdamick

With my pickup I got into the habit of changing the fuel filter every other oil change, just because.
The CRD filter is larger and more expensive so I am going to every 3-4 changes, same reason.
I have never seen water in my pickup either, I just think it is a good idea to ensure clean fuel to the injection pump & injectors.

mdamick

I have the cruise set @ 52 or 58 depending upon the road.
It will also do it on the interstate with cruise set at 78 and if I slowed down to 60-65 for something & hit resume.

Hill slope varies and the load is myself and another 150-200 lb of misc stuff.

What I do now is hit the OD off from 38-50, unless going downhill, and re-engage above that to keep the converter locked.

In cruise I see 3rd or 5th-it doesn't like 4th.

mdamick

I do not think that the vacuum line is the issue. I just looked and if the vacuum line comes loose the turbo should overspeed

I would like to know how you get yours to upshift during passing, mine always wants to drop 2 gears.

dodgeaspen

That brings me to my next question...at what weight do electric brakes become necessary. The trailer I'll be towing has them but my CRD doesn't have a controller. Also is the installation of a controller difficult?

Thanks!!

twocycle2

Hello fellow CRD owners! While this is my first post, I have been reading this board since last summer. While there have been a few problems reported, everyone's enthusiasm about their vehicles encouraged me to jump on board...I bought my CRD last Friday, and absolutely love it...this little truck is more fun and has more personality than any vehicle I've owned. Thank you to all for your recommendations, and for the maintenance info you've posted. Sat morning, I pulled the engine cover off and checked all the turbo/intercooler hose connections, per the recommendations of an earlier post. I already bought my socket and oil to do the first oil change, though have had no luck yet in finding a filter. I still have time, but I am racking up miles so quickly, it won't be long before I do the first oil change. My wife thinks I'm nuts, but owning this truck is like having a new baby in the house!

Keep the good information coming, and since I do a lot of maintenance myself, I'll share my experiences as they occur.

Twocycle2

jimhemi

Congrats!
Welcome aboard!

nescosmo

Siberia and Goodcrd thank you for the information I am late answering because I was away. HOW can you bypass or disconnect the egr valve like some of the guy said.

nescosmo

Farout. I do drive an Sprinter 3500 sold by Dodge but made by Mercedez B. It is a 2.7 straight 5 engine the company let you use deno or syn. well at 3000 miles I put penzoil 15w-40 and it run good then I found Castrol 15w-40 at a discount, at 6500 miles I change the oil with Castrol and now the engine sound like an old locomotive it sound so bad that I think that I will change the oil again and put Chevron. What I want you to understand is that oil change from company to company. 0w-40 is not a good oil for my crd, Rotella 5w-40 syn. works good for my crd and next time I change my crd oil I will try 15w-40 syn from Amsoil.

nescosmo

Welcome Twocycle. If you go to Autozone and Ask for the filter, they have it on STP brand also you can go to any auto part that have Wix and they have it to. Glad you Happy.

nescosmo

Goodcrd. the crd is brand new how can we loose boost pressure if all the hosed are not leaking pressure nor the cooler is damage. lost of power have to come from some where else maybe the egr valve chocking the air path to the intake.
Could that be possible.

goodcrd

Don't overlook the waste gate valves in the turbo itself. I know on the larger turbos of the series 50 the waste gate is a somewhat round disc which opens to release excess boost pressure produced by the turbo. If these discs don't seat tightly it will allow your boost pressure to bleed off. This is the number one reason turbo's fail. I will pull the hose off and check it myself this weekend. This waste gate valve should seat tightly and not be moved by your fingers. The egr valves on this engine don't look like there ment to be bypassed. I would leave it alone. If it is a programming issue I'd give them about six more months to resolve it.

siberia

… I change the oil with Castrol and now the engine sound like an old locomotive it sound so bad that I think that I will change the oil again and put Chevron.

Nescosmo, depending on where you live, maybe the increase in engine noise is due to the change over from winter to summer fuel.

I recently fueled up and the noisy rattle of straight #2 fuel is suddenly back, my mileage jumped up 2 mpg into the 28-29 mpg range on the trip meter and the engine has a crisp feeling and more power.

The weather has been fairly warm so the jump is apparently fuel. Straight #2 contains more energy than winter mix and should make the engine rattle more. I like the rattle and think the sound is proper. I will be going on the road in a week and a half and I am looking forward to getting some of Farout’s good Missouri fuel.

whitgallman

Yes, it could raise the cetane more than Power Serve. My point was if you have "shudder", try boosting the cetane to see if it goes away.

whitgallman

There are requirements for auxiliary brake systems in each state. The RoadMaster hitch web site has a table for each state's requirements. Most say when trailers weigh around 4,000 pounds you should have trailer brakes. I was looking at towing my Libby behind my truck and found there is a "Buddy Brake" gadget that takes the electric trailer brake current from the truck and pushes down the brake peddle on the Jeep. They run about $900 though. I'll try to find the web site.
http://www.roadmaster-tow-bars.com/laws.html

whitgallman

I actually looked under the hood of my Libby this past weekend and found that the water pump has an electric clutch on it like the one on the A/C compressor. Is that true for all the CRD Libby's or just on those with towing package / heavy duty cooling?
2006 model w/ 8/05 build date.

ampman

If your considering an auxiliary tow brake for your Libby thats being towed, consider the Tow Brake by US Gear it's very effective and is incorporated into the boost system of your brakes without violating the brake lines.With this system your not pushing against a dead brake peddle by a box pressing against your driver seat.

ampman

My sentiments exactly. I just love this little truck and your right it does have personality. Be carefull with this machine and don't lets its ability to pick them up and put them down get you in trouble with the law. 80 mph seems like 55mph.You just don't realize how fast your actually going.

tired_old_dave

"I'll keep an ear open for that Honda story.

Steve, Host"

Honda and Sonex Piston?

stever

Hmmm, the Sonex piston is part of a modified combustion chamber design. Sounds like a Hemi. :shades:

FCX hydrogen fuel cell?

One thing the diesels have going for them vs. the hybrids is the disposal/recycling cost down the road should be less. Newsday

Steve, Host

tired_old_dave

Has Honda bought rights to use the sonex and that is how they "solved" the gas combustion ignition thirty year old problem? I then wonder if the engine company known as Honda has a sweet little diesel up their kimono?
While I had an old sonex bookmark, this link was provided elsewhere.
http://www.washingtonfreepress.org/73/gasEngineUseDiesel.htm

retmil46

Uhh, dude, that's not the water pump. That's the viscous heater. It's an auxiliary heater that kicks in during cold weather when you first start up, to add in heat to the cooling system so you can at least start defrosting the windshield. If I remember correctly, from the service manual, both the oil and water pump are driven off the timing belt.

stever

varmint, "Honda CR-V Diesel version" #3, 19 Aug 2005 1:18 pm

The scuttlebutt seems to be that the Asian manufacturers are slow to introduce diesels in Europe (or underestimated demand) and don't think that the North American market is ripe for diesels due to less than stellar experiences with diesel fuel cars in the last century (you know, like the 1980's, lol).

Sonex has a bit of that underfunded smell about it to me, like they are more interested in selling a penny stock than technology. (Yahoo)

Liberty diesel owners are trailblazers!

Steve, Host

toos

I'm looking at buying a CRD after my wife damaged my Jeep GC. I want a diesel and figure it will be some time before we see the GC diesel here (if ever, given the EPA's regs on diesels). Anyway, one question I have is re the timing belt. Is the engine an interference or non-interference engine (i.e.if the belt fails is the engine toast?). I never liked having to change timing belts ever since my bad experience with an (unamed US car) years ago. Any idea of what the timing belt replacement is (parts and labor)?

I also have read quite a bit in these forums about needing a ProVent intercooler filter added to keep the intercooler free of oil (seems the stock CCV filter is inadequate). Also ball joint problems and tranny shudder (tranny fixed now I hear, but don't know if the joint problem has been resolved). Am I missing any other problems? Oh, EGR valves, which I understand are a $300 part (not sure about labor)that fails. Again, unknown if the newer production EGR valves are any more reliable.

I test drove the CRD and really like it, but I wonder about the above issues. I love the torque, the peppy engine, and well, the sound of diesel. Guess I'm working myself up to getting one, but it seems to have a lot of unresolved problems for a vehicle that already has been in Europe for some time. The reduction in warranty between 2005 and 2006 is not exactly pushing me towards a sale either. Still, it appeals to me

farout

After e-mailing the maker of our CRD engine, this is a very, very brief summary of a 9 page reply. Don't use over B-5 fuel. And they say for oil and the weight to use 5-40W or 10-40W as they do in Europe. I called DCX and they say if they can prove that anything over 5-40W is used the warranty is void, they did not care what VM MOTORI says. My dealer said it's because the US version of the 2.8 CRD has a different oil pump.....confused!
I agree with the B-5 but I am not so certain about the 0-40W oil. Any ideas?

Farout

farout

I suggest you talk with a service manager of a dealer who has a good # of CRD's that come for service. The issues of concern in this forum come from people who want to know about the CRD or those who have problems seeking information. Remember the old saying, If you are unhappy you will tell 10 people, if your happy you might tell 2 people. That is a very true statement!
I have a 2005 Sport CRD with 12,000 miles and not 1 single problem. I don't go doing anything more than I have to, and just drive it.

Farout

jimhemi

That's interesting. I'm sticking with the 5-40W Mobile One. Seems readily available, although not as easy to find as the 0W. I don't believe in a 0W oil long term, unless I was racing and didn't want the thicker oil slowing down my crankshaft.

farout

jimhemi: I saw 0-40 Mobil 1 yesterday at OhRileys at $5.49qt. There they did not have the 5-40W, that was a first, as you say it seems 0-40 is hard to find in the store. Walleys World has the 5qt 5-40 for $20. That's what I think I will do next time. I will stand near so I can watch, and bring my own 8ml socket allen for them to use. $35. is a lot cheaper than $85. at the dealer that's for sure. I would change it myself but I am really "tired and old Farout" and the messy oil is just that! Messy!

Farout

winter2

The valve train is designed in such a way that if the timing belt fails, the followers coming off of the camshaft will break saving the pistons, valves, heads.

tired_old_dave

The original post last year was about a radio show comment about Honda solving the decades old problem that prevented gasoline combustion engines(no spark plug). (The linked story refers to diesel and other fuels in a gas engine. Seems to be blurring gasser vs oil burner. Granted diesel blocks are built to take the extra punishment.) The original radio show mentioned a 30% increase in gasoline mpg. This might be what the talk was about. The sonex diesel part was just taking the next step.
Some days the better half and I wish we weren't trailblazers. Some days we are. It hasn't gone lucas yet.

winter2

DCX will have an awful time in court. If you read their manual, they use the word "recommended" when it comes to the choice of oil. "Recommended" does not mean must in most lexicons. Next they will have to prove that the oil caused the failure. Good luck.

As to a different oil pump, horse hockey! Why would they change the pump if they use the same oil over in the EU? Nonsensical answer.

supertech

Hi, winter2 just a little more info to help confuse. The CRD engine uses a vane type oil pump. (kind of like a power steering pump) Soooo oil viscosity may be an issue? I,m sticking with the 5w/40. Over 15,000 mile 0 problems. I have to knock on wood now, later John

twocycle2

For what it's worth, one of the CRDs I test-drove (a 2006)had the check engine light on when I first started it up....it only had 8 miles on it and was an 02/06 build date....the salesman said it was "ok to drive", but when I tried to accelerate out of the parking lot, it had no power what-so-ever.....would not go over 20mph....idled normally, but not driveable....the dealer hooked it up to the computer and said it was a "boost pressure sensor" that needed to be replaced....

Maybe this is related to the problem some of you have had...maybe not....if it's intermittent, maybe i just got "lucky" and the dealer was able to check the codes while the problem was there.....I'm not sure what the final outcome was....I purchased a different one!!!

twocycle2

Has anybody replaced the fuel filter yourself? If so, recommendations on procedure? It appears that I can unplug the electrical connections, and just move the fuel lines and brake vac line out of the way....does this work? Or, it also looks relatively easy to unbolt the entire fuel filter unit from the firewall, which would leave the back of the assembly un-obstructed, and presumably, easy to access. Any success stories or words of advice?

siberia

In post #4741 when talking about black smoke I wrote:

Some vehicles do this less than others. The Jetta TDI dumps fuel with a 0.25 second cutback by the computer. The fuel is already cutting back in anticipation of the sudden turbo boost emitting a small puff of black smoke.

Thus, implying that the VW Jetta TDI is perhaps more sophisticated than the CRD. Well, I followed one home from work today and I could smell it a half block away. When I caught up with it I noticed that it left a trail of black smoke when it pulled away from every stop light.

I take it back.

siberia

Hi Twocycle2,

People have been working on the fuel filter both ways with success. I prefer to leave the fuel lines connected and remove the unit from the firewall. In my case, the lines and wires are long enough to lift it up to access the electrical plug on the bottom and remove the sensor to drain the fuel. (long transmission funnel down to container under jeep)

I am not going to change the filter until 25k miles. The plan is to drain it and slip a filter wrench on it and put it back on the firewall finger tight to hold the torque from the filter wrench. That's the plan. Maybe I'll take this back too.

wdquay

Has anyone heard of a problem on the Liberty Diesel, that would cause the throttle to stick in the wide open position. It doesen't appear to be the pedal stuck, but when breaking to a stop in this condition the electronic throttle control light will flash. This is the second time I have had it back to the dealership in 6000 miles and they can not duplicate the problem and it has happened to me at least 30 times. The last few as soon as the throttle comes back to idle just touching the pedal makes it go back to full. The last time it would not come back to idle even after cycling the ignition switch several times, and when it arrived at the dealership in a flatbed it was working fine. The Technician took it home and still could not duplicate the problem. I am going back to the dealer tomorrow and take the Technician fro a ride with me to show him what is happening. I have made sure there is a record of complaints at the dealership so my widow can sue if I get killed. Any suggestions would be of a great help, I have been driving Mercedes Diesels for 20 years, and working on them for longer, but while this is under warranty, I expect the dealership to fix it.
Thanks,
Dave :confuse:

nescosmo

which ever way will work but do not forget to prime the filter about 20 or 30 times or will not start.

nescosmo

maybe is the cruse control with the braking switch.

caribou1

mdamick, I did the test on the way to work this morning:
- Set cruise speed to ~70 mph
- Slowed down to ~45 mph (behind a truck in 4th gear)
- Resumed cruise.
The engine went all the way to 3600 rpm in 3rd gear, waited a fraction of a second then got into 4th gear with full acceleration until the initial speed was reached (~2700 rpm) and finally dropped back into 5th gear without accelerating.
I read somewhere that the engine was programmed not to go above 3600 rpm in this condition.
I think the answer to your question is that when the engine can reach the cruising speed in 3 rd gear, it will do so, and then it will skip 4th gear.

siberia

Has anyone heard of a problem on the Liberty Diesel, that would cause the throttle to stick in the wide open position

Hi Wdquay,

Such is the drive by wire world we live in now. I have heard of other brands with DBW doing what you describe - even the gold standard for quality, Honda. One has to believe that this is a somewhat likely problem with DBW for manufacturers to put a warning light on the dash just for that issue.

Your dealer is taking a big risk for you and DCX by not, at least, changing out the throttle control. Even though your warning light goes out, wouldn't there still be a trouble(s) code stored in your computer? Also, there might be frozen data stored in your computer from the event.

mike6206

Has anyone actually used the 0W40 synthetic oil in their CRD yet? And how is it doing, good or bad?

winter2

I believe the CRD comes with 0W-40 as factory fill.

As to how it is doing, look at the posts. I personally do not like Mobil products and avoid them unless there is nothing else available.

wdquay

The trouble code is the same as operating the throttle with the right foot and the brake with the left foot. Only problem is my other car (Dodge Viper) is a stick shift and I don't left foot brake. The dealer has a problem with just changing parts in Georgia, just a few replacements that does not fix the problem kicks the vehicle into the "lemon law". I could not make it happen today at the dealer but they are going to continue working on it to try to duplicate the problem. As a last resort, they will return the vehicle to me with a data recorder that when it happens again with a press of a button all sensor readings will be recorded from 30 seconds before the button was pressed to 30 seconds after the button was pressed. Maybe then we can find the problem.
Thanks,
Dave

unclebubba

Hey Toos, I saw a concept car (a Cherokee) with the M-B Bluetech diesel. This was from a link on the Jeep website, I believe it was when I was looking for updates about the 07 Wrangler, which by the way, is available with the CRD for EXPORT ONLY!!! :surprise: Now, I would love to have a Wrangler Unlimited with a CRD!

whitgallman

Dear Retired,
The 2006 shop manual shows the water pump being driven off the accesory drive belt, serpentine belt.
My water pump has an electric clutch on it like the AC compressor has. Does anyone else have this on theirs? It may have come with the towing package Heavy Duty cooling system.

laids

I was pulling a boat about 1500 lbs. out of a launch with a long steep pitch with washed out gravel. I was a little concerned as I was by myself. I put it in 4 wheel low and it just about idled up the hill. I was very impressed.