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First is fuel quality. The majority of domestic diesel fuel borders on trash. The few cents you pay now will cost you down the road in terms of poor performance, more smoke/particulate and poorer fuel economy. I have tried "cheaper" diesel once or twice in my CRD and it did not have the normal perkiness, was harder to start and made more noise and smoke ( a little more visible smoke). These engines are designed to run on EU quality fuel with 51+ cetane. I buy a better grade fuel and add a cetane improver plus detergent to it. Big difference. Much quieter, perkier, and better fuel economy by 2 - 3 mpg!
I have not ever experienced any of the "stuttering" or "shuttering" that some are mentioning here. Is it the trans or the engine? Could it be the fuel, a misfire, stuck injector?
Farout
Farout
Bought the official shop manual for $175.00. Two volumes. Dealer had told me I would get what they had for my 175 so I must be three volumes short because they said theirs was five volumes. I've only glanced at it. There doesn't seem to be any listing of error codes... see your dealer.
Thought about buying the extended service contract but it would be wasted money. Might as well invest in code readers etc. The whole point of buying this thing was to put down the wrenches. Started on the lemon process in case this becomes chronic. Bill Gates and microcrash are not welcome to ride along with me.
Does anyone have ETC light problems and a dealer that knows the cause? Can anyone recommend the best code reader. I.ve never had anything that needed one before.
I like my CRD but it wants to be a hobby more than transportation.
Turblediesel
To all: I was just pointing out that our beloved 2.8's has a valve on the air intake. There is something that controls the movement of this valve.
we probably drive about 20 of the 65 mile commute daily in 40-50 mph and it's fairly flat. I've taken note of your earlier comments about this and noticed when it happens we are only very slightly accelerating, just to maintain speed. We could slow up under 40 to keep it from happening, but who likes to drive slower to work. Faster than 50 and we take a chance of getting a ticket.
The Chyrsler reps test drove it yesterday and say that with this new converter its as good as its going to get.
My jeep's still there as they're fixing a paint chip that appeared while in their posession and its getting the whole fender redone.
Winter2, at this point I'm not sure if its tranny, fuel, or engine. I thought I took care to get good diesel and have added cetane, but it didn't seem to help any.
We'll see how it works next week. Although I've only owned the jeep a month now, I'm starting to miss it!
Michelle
Also, under your warranty, any ASE mechanic may perform warranty work on your vehicle as long as it is a warren table part and covered under the warranty and time line. Warranty work does not pay much so many places may not want any part of it. If a problem does require a repair, the mechanic/diesel center can perform the warranty work at no charge to you, the same as the dealership. Many of us with the diesel are taking the CRD to a dealership that has few competent techs on hand. If any of you cannot find a reputable 5 star Chrysler dealer you should take it to a Diesel tech.
http://detroitdiesel.com/Service_Locator/
For what it's worth, many of us can go to a Detroit Diesel(Subsidiary of Chrysler) truck center and get an opinion from someone that knows a Diesel. For all of the time and aggravation that so many are facing a quick trip might end all problems. I know when I have a problem I am going to a truck repair facility that has ASE certified mechanics for Diesels. Part of the problem is that the "newer" techs are computer mechanics, that is they only repair what the code is. They don't think "what might cause the problem? Why does this keep coming in every 3 months?" Anyone experiencing repeated problems, spending countless hours of down time on a vehicle that you're financing should take the time to bring it to a real diesel tech. That's my two cents. I know there are a lot of issues with trans shudders, egr replacements, silly issues such as hose clamps left loose at the factory. Take the time, since so many are wasting it at incompetent shops and see where else you can get someone with half a brain to offer some help. Good luck, happy motoring. Supposed to be a nice weekend here in Jersey, I will be driving my CRD all over the Jersey Shore. :shades:
I think that with 5w-40 oil buying a provent is a waist of money ( only my Opi.).
Ps: If you want to buy something good for your engine then buy a Trasko oil filter.
You may find out more about the platform in the Jeep Patriot discussion.
Steve, Host
Yesterday I set the OD to 40 mph while going over an elevated highway crossing bridge. On the way down the OD light stayed 'ON' but the engine rpm came to 1200 (near idle) and later resumed normal speed. Only the converter opened (to give more engine braking by friction ??) and then closed. Can you do that?
I tried this at 40 mph to make shure the truck stayed in 4th gear.
My CRd has run perfect kinda. I really enojy the power & mileage combination.
I tried to accellerate hard in merging traffic and the thing just choked out. No power just sitting there getting ready to get crushed. I will not try that again.
It has run fine ever since. This was week ago.
If anyone has any ideas please let us know it really concerned me.
De ju vu all over again - post #4871:
Also there was mention of VW TDI "bucking" on the TDI forum. ?
I have yet to come up with anything more than a computer glitch. When it happened to me it was cold out and the engine had run fine for a few minutes. I don't get a choking or pinging just no power at full throttle. It is like it forgets to inject fuel.
Drt1crd,
Some older diesels had excess turbo pressure fuel cut out switches - don't know about newer diesels. The CRD ECU reads turbo boost pressure and takes it into account. It would be very easy for the ECU to cut the fuel under excess boost. Did you go from high throttle to low throttle then back to high throttle very quickly maybe dumping excess fuel/exhaust into an already high spinning turbo? I have no idea if this can happen on a CRD or if this constitutes an "idea" even. However, the diesel pedal on CRDs is short travel and fast attack, in my opinion. Maybe use a little more finesse on the pedal unless you are already using finesse, then ignore everything I said.
Another idea has to do with the data stream from the ECU. This I do know. The data stream from the ECU occasionally stops and restarts. I doesn't cause jerking when it happens and the data stream doesn't necessarily interrupt during jerking. But, maybe data stream interruption at certain times can cause something like you described.
I think the best code reader is a PDA loaded with vehicle specific software that can act like an on board dyno plotting out horsepower and torque curves while you hammer the vehicle 0 to something - total cost about $250.
Here is a cheap alternative that I am happy with because it works as an on board computer on my 4cyl Japanese car.
link title
It is not approved by the company for the CRD because the ECU data stream interrupts. It will work until that happens - a few minutes to over an hour maybe. It reads error codes, freeze frame data and clears codes on the CRD fine. Just doesn't work well as an on board computer because of the data problem.
Air intake-Air filter-CCV outlet-Turbo compressor turbine-Hose-Intercooler-Hose-EGR control valve-Intake manifold-EGR outlet in Intake manifold-intake valves. Any other order is bogus. Air flow is from the right side of the engine compartment to the left side of the engine. The turbo is on the right side of the engine and the intake is on the left side of the engine. Left and right are sitting in the driver's seat looking forward, always.
Also, the intercooler cools the air after the turbo and the air gets heated back up considerably by the EGR at the intake manifold.
I had a shop put the MAF in backwards on a KIA. It wouldn't idle and had very little power. Took me 2 days staring at the engine knowing something wasn't right before I figured it out.
When it did it to me last week, I had started down the hill, realized I had forgotten something and backed up. The engine idled for 2-3 min and then when I started back down the driveway on a flat stretch it had no power. I could push the footfeed all the way to the floor and nothing. It did it for 15 sec and then started running. I got a mile up the road & it did it again. It has run fine since.
One thought - have you tried changing the fuel filter? Perhaps an intermittent blockage could cause this and then go away.
1.) Do not set the cruise at 55 mph with 4 adults. On slight inclines it will not find the right gear. Though interesting reading material, I don't care about the mechanics of the shiftpoint. Set the cruise at 50 or at 58+. I couldn't drive my new F-150 at 62-64 mph because of the tires. I could have spent thousands of dollars in Advil or Motrin and taken the truck back a dozen times or I could choose to drive a nice vehicle and shoot through the 62-64 mph window.
2.) Those of us who drive with an egg under the accelerator will find these "hiccups" or combustion/fuel issues (I don't think its the transmission)issues. I drive alot in the 60mph range and keep my acceleration RPM's below 2500 (usually <2200). When you stomp it after driving like this you will fog those behind you. Do several acceleration romps in a row...there will be less smoke each time. In addition, the "stuttering" after lifting your foot quickly off of the accelerator will dissapate with each successive stomp. Therefore, I think it is a trash fuel/ignition problem that I hope goes away with ULSD. Caribou1, have you had this problem? Earlier posts refer to "blowing its nose" and it works but it isn't as much fun as actually laying down some fog (smog :surprise: ).
I've had vehicles with better cruise control units. The Ford's I've had "learned" and changes their shiftpoint over the course of a couple of hundred mile. This made trip to the mountains from 'ol flat Indiana fun but the transmission would have "learned" to hold the vehicle in a higher gear by the time we returned (or sooner). This transmission is "dumb" :surprise:
...but overall she's kinda cute, gets good gas mileage and let's me use "batjeep fog escape" routine when I pull out in front of an unsuspecting Caddy or Lexus driver and stomp it
Cheers, and good luck.
Most vehicle have to age little before they get some personality. These come right off the line with it. :shades:
Boiler
1.) There isn't enough torque at 55 mph to pull 4 adults in 5th gear (on my engine) so it keeps changing between 4th and 5th gears depending on the profile of the road. This is mapped in the controller.
2.) ULSD over here is not very stable as of it's BTU (energical value), and I cannot expect EGR problems will be resolved when you get this type of fuel because this is a recurrent issue here as well.
XXXL.) Since I cancelled the egr control on my engine, all hickups and gear change hesitations have gone away. My engine does not produce any visible dust or soot anymore.
Looking more into the details of the common rail injection systems I would appreciate the engine controller to take care of injection alone and to have a separate system do it's work about emission control. My engine does not combine emission control with pre/post injection pulses like yours does. I think this is where reliability comes from. I bought "Expert Know-How on Automotive Technology" books from 'AMAZON.com', the "Bosch Yellow Jackets" they are called. Many answers to this forum can be found in there. :shades:
I had it in for the transmission failure and they had no codes shown for the drop out a couple of months earlier.
I would not expect the fuel filter as big as it is to plug up that bad and intermittently. I am on the 3rd filter in 33000 miles so I don't think that it is full of junk.
I am wondering if the EGR is opening up full at the wrong time due to a programming error. On my bike if I put the EGR valves in backward, it is very hard to start and has no power, kind of what I am experiencing with the CRD.
I am still on the original EGR.
Mine never wants to stop at 4th if any kickdown is required.
I have just a hair sigh of 12,000 miles. This weekend while pulling a 2500lb load I noticed a marked improvement in better power and a smoother, quieter running of the engine. So far I have had no problems.
I talked to an Amsol dealer, and his "honest" suggestion was to stick with what is working. He even suggested I stay with Mobil 1 0-40. Now that blew me away! I don't know what others think, but if there is oil or stuff in a hose or some other part, I think V.M. Motori knows about it and proberly it's considered normal. If not then until it hits 100,000 miles DCX will pay for the repair. That's the way I see it.
Farout
Farout
Steve, Host
Farout
I have never been able to deposit any smoke for those sweet Hummers or Escalades I have left behind. Should I call my dealer and complain that I don't have any thing to complain about?
Farout
Farout
Farout
I read "*****" as "local" but it's easy to confuse with "%@#!*" which has similar spelling.
tidester, host
In 4th gear mine pulls real hard down to 1600 rpm.
There are no 'roller-coaster' profile roads over here but on mountain roads when I had the egr in working condition I had to accelerate 1/2 way to get into 3rd gear for a short acceleration (~2500 rpm) then it would try to come back into 4th gear by default. I had enormous power lags when shifting between 3rd and 4th gears. The common rail has very little torque below 1600 rpm so it needs to shift back and forth to keep going at 40 mph on a steep incline.
Going uphill in 3rd gear with OD/OFF is what I find most comfortable when there are many hairpin curves. I also use the 2nd gear position quite often. The best to my opinion would be to have the equivalent to the VW/Audi 'Tiptronic' gear selector. This way of driving also extends break life. I am now at 50% disk wear (27mm) at almost 70,000 Km!
Perform an experiment for me. When you next fill up with non-biodiesel, put in a bunch of cetane improver like Power Serve and see if you get the same thing. See if the shutter stays away or comes back. My theory is that the timing is advanced on the CRD to accomodate the ULSD to come, which will also be high cetane.
Somebody already mentioned this but, some diesel fuel supplies (per my friends at Perry Nuclear Station) have lots of middle distillates and waste oils added that are not necessarily good diesel fuel. Some industrial oils etc get blended in that don't effect class 8 truck engines much but may not burn promptly in our little diesels that are set up for fuels of the future. My Perry Ohio friends had to spec straight run fuel to get stable good running stuff.
Could Lucas Fuel treatment be better then Power Service?
Also, I noticed that there is a slight black dry soot film in the engine bay on all the components. Possibly that some exhaust burn may be creeping into the engine compartment and resulting in being sucked into the clean air intake?
Any similar experiences?