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Try some padded seat covers, perhaps?
Any thoughts?
Also, as long as I'm asking, any thoughts on rotors?
Basically... The recommendation is to go with diecent (not the cheapest) rotors. (Bendix, Raybestos, ...etc). If you want better stuff, go with German-steel such as ATE or Zimmermann rotors. Cheap rotors (Mexico,China) will tend to warp or rust long before the pads wear out.
For pads, DO NOT get so-called 'racing' or 'high-performace'... you will be sorry. These pad-compisitions need to hot before they start to work well. If a moose jumps out infront of you on a cold morning, you WILL NOT have time to warm up the brake-pads before you want to stop. (Picture brake-pedal pushed as hard as you can and the car barely slows down for the first 50 feet)
Instead, look for a 'mild upgrade' from stock pads. Beware that more braking power usually means more black dust on your wheels. Akebono is a CERAMIC-based pad. These tend to make less black dust than organic pads.
Also, if you purposefully take the time to "season" the rotors before you "break in" the pads, you will be rewarded with many miles of excellent braking performance. Seasoning the rotors essentually is laying down a thin layer of pad-material on the surface of the rotor while you de-stress the metal with heat-cycling.
Cool, I will head over there and check things out.
Basically... The recommendation is to go with diecent (not the cheapest) rotors. (Bendix, Raybestos, ...etc). If you want better stuff, go with German-steel such as ATE or Zimmermann rotors.
I have had good luck with Brembo blanks, and ATE slotted in the past, I just didn't know if there was anything newer I should be aware of. It sounds like I am still on the right track.
For pads, DO NOT get so-called 'racing' or 'high-performace'... you will be sorry. These pad-compisitions need to hot before they start to work well. If a moose jumps out infront of you on a cold morning, you WILL NOT have time to warm up the brake-pads before you want to stop. (Picture brake-pedal pushed as hard as you can and the car barely slows down for the first 50 feet)
Oh man, memories of track days at Buttonwillow; we would go on Saturday, put race pads on, do the track day, drive back to the hotel, wake up in the morning, drive back to the track, and then somehow manage to avoid a 30 car pileup (all of us going to the event from the hotel) on the off ramp of I5 because everyone has stone cold race pads...idiots we were. Anyway, I definitely understand heat ranges and that a street car needs brakes that work when cold.
Instead, look for a 'mild upgrade' from stock pads. Beware that more braking power usually means more black dust on your wheels. Akebono is a CERAMIC-based pad. These tend to make less black dust than organic pads.
If I can get a little more bite than the stock pad and less dust, that is very appealing to me. Something rotor friendly is nice too, but I am less worried about it. My wife and kid are in this car, I want it to stop when told.
Also, if you purposefully take the time to "season" the rotors before you "break in" the pads, you will be rewarded with many miles of excellent braking performance. Seasoning the rotors essentially is laying down a thin layer of pad-material on the surface of the rotor while you de-stress the metal with heat-cycling.
That is an excellent point. Even the S&P dimpled slotted rotors JC Whitney had on special had instructions for how to bed the rotors and seat the pads.
I think one of the things i wanted to say also was thanks for a very thorough, well explained answer that covered a lot of the newbie mistakes. I think on forums like this a willingness to explain all the pitfalls, tips and tricks goes a long way.
He is asking for $7300 which is exactly the TMV price reported on this site, however TMV does not take into account whether the seller is a 1st or 2nd owner. I am wondering whether the fact that the seller is the 2nd owner is legitimate leverage for me to offer substantially less, possibly $6000. If the mechanic does not find any other issues with the car, I will argue that the fact that I would be the 3rd owner means that the resale value for me would be terrible, so I am knocking off $1k for that, and I am going a bit further down because of the scratches and the broken back seat compartment thing, also (and I won't mention this specifically) the fact that he is selling it less than a year after buying it is a potential risk factor I need to take into account.
Do you think this would be a reasonable offer? I would be willing to pay up to $6500 perhaps if he doesn't seem willing to go that low, but I don't really want my initial offer to be over $6000 because of the issues I mentioned. 100k miles is also quite high but that is already taken into account in the TMV.
This is also a red flag:
possibly be some minor further suspension work to be done in a few thousand miles due to crappy roads
Sounds like he knows something's coming.
The suspension thing doesn't really worry me in the sense that he was honest about it, if it was something dangerous my guess is he would have kept quiet. He is right that the roads here are terrible and really take a toll on the suspension, and at 100k miles it doesn't really surprise me that it might need work (and he has already done the most expensive part of the work apparently). In any case the mechanic will be able to put a price on this and whatever it is, I will subtract it out of the asking price of course.
We are looking at a tent trailer....weight 1200 lbs. empty..with trailer brakes. According to the owner's manual, it can handle the trailer OK.
I know it will be a slug, but trading this car in on something more powerful is a killer.
Is the dealer-installed Subaru frame hitch the way to go? Do I need a special transmission cooler?
Any experienced trailer folks out there with some advice would be greatly appreciated. The trailer we would get is an Aliner Sport.
Many thanks,
Doug
I towed a 700 lb trailer, plus a couple of beds and a couch, with my 98 Forester, and it did fine. I didn't even have trailer brakes. Stopping distances were longer, of course, so I left plenty of space. The engine and clutch did just fine.
You have more power and a more substantial tow vehicle, so I can't imagine it'll be a problem.
Many thanks for the feedback on towing. Sounds like we would be good to go.
Doug
We have a "Hidden Hitch" drawbar and a "Hoppy" plug-n-play electrical connector. No splicing or anything, it just plugs in and off you go.
I say wheel bearing, too. If I'm wrong I'll buy you a beer next time you're in the DC area.
Dealers says it's OK, so I guess wait and see if it gets worse.
Worst case: The bearing disintegrates, you hear a horrid grinding noise, and end up stranded somewhere with a three-legged car. Other than the stranding and emotional distress, it should not be a safety issue.
Your bearing sounds like it has quite a ways to go before it reaches that point. I would just keep an ear on it and take it to the dealer again when it becomes more consistent.
Carfax- is lack on maintenance records on carfax meaninful or not? obviously if someone changes oil themselves not going to show up in carfax
Edmunds TMV vs KBB- KBB seems to be a good bit higher for same car- seems to be what dealers use- how to use TMV- the floor price?
Looking at 2 vehicles- 06(sold 8/06) OB limited mid 50K miles- clean carfax but no maintenance records on carfax
other car is 07(sold 11/06) 2.5i premium mid 50K miles- clean car fax- all dealer maint on car fax.
How to judge these if 1K difference in price. does dealer maint give value over limited options
Am I engaging in analysis paralysis.....
07 premium with 38K miles
08 limited with 46K miles- manufacturer car for 20k
and a couple of 06 limited with around 50 K
Prices ranging from 18900- 08 limited to 17.5(one of 06 limited and "cherry" 07 premium above
How to judge these if 1K difference in price. does dealer maint give value over limited options
Thought on these??
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Try some Lysol - spray it in the air intake in the cowl (if that's where it is).
Put the interior fan on High, fresh air mode. Then spray in Lysol so that the vents suck it in and disinfect the vents.
There are some commercial concoctions that you can "fog" into the intake of the venting system which are intended to kill the mold/mildew.
It is also possible, if the mold/mildew has been allowed to grow for too long, that the drain hose for the evaperator may be plugged up. This would have to be 'manually' cleaned out by hand by running a brush or something thru the hose.
If you turn on the "recirculate" button, then the intake is INSIDE the car... listen for the sucking sound under the dash near the gas pedal.
Seems like the new generation (more SUV, less wagon) can do that, but sadly the turbo and manual tranny are gone.
If the problem is very widespread, you might even be able to find instructions on how to repair it (DIY).
I did read about someone soldering/fixing a connection. I am NOT mechanically inclined, but could tell the dealership what to do. Is it easy to get to?
Thanks!