Subaru Legacy/Outback 2005+

c_hunter · January 2006

The switches in my OB XT are indeed lit with a small red dot, but it will go out if you have disabled the passenger power windows with the lockout switch.

I have seen this feature on lower trim levels, and doubt they would remove it from the 2.5i to save costs. Check your lockout switch....

CRaig

poisson · January 2006

To further clarify, when you engage the lockout switch, all of the other LEDs will turn off, including the ones on the driver's door as well as the individual switches on the other 3 doors. The only that remains lit is the driver's window switch (with 'AUTO).
I don't believe this is actually discussed in the manual (could be wrong).

-mark

stantont · January 2006

The amount a car dives under heavy braking is determined partially by suspension stiffness, but also by the amount of anti-dive geometry built into the front suspension. To achieve that, the axis for the mounting points of the suspension arms to the chassis is "tilted" (as viewed from the side). Then brake torque tends to lift the front end to counteract the diving effect.
Stanton

ateixeira · January 2006

I'd argue that in slippery situations, AWD (traction) is a MUCH bigger factor than just simply the spring rates. I can think of a few stiffly sprung cars that are awful in the snow (Mustang, Corvette, Camaro, ...).

-juice

samiam_68 · January 2006

You may have your window lock-out switch turned on. Only window swithces that are operable will be lit. Try unlocking the window-lockout switch.

kens · January 2006

Yup, it's still there. It's the shift interlock engaging to prevent you from shiting between RD while the vehicle is in motion.

I've gotten used to it so I no longer "hear" it.

Ken

xwesx · January 2006

It's the shift interlock engaging to prevent you from shiting between RD while the vehicle is in motion.

Hahahahhahaha..... Oh, some typos are just too funny..... :P

kens · January 2006

Ooops! (turns red)

But now that I think about it, going from D to R while moving would cause any gearhead to, shift without the "f".

Sorry for the typo! I'm still a little jetlagged from my business trip to Thailand last week.

Ken

c_hunter · January 2006

I hate it when the gears are shiting between R and D ...

Usually a good time to flush the transmission

bwah-ha-ha

bobny11580 · January 2006

Oh we are getting quite scatalogical I think.

Bob from Long Island

tsy · January 2006

You guys are getting gross!

Scatology? The study of dung? Is this dirty academic humor?

tom

zman3 · January 2006

Did a search and I didn't find any information...

I just did my first oil change last night on my 06 3.0R Outback. First off, the underbody trim pieces are a pain in the butt. It made me long for the simplicity of my 98 Outback.

Anyway, back on topic. When I filled the oil I put in the quoted 5.8 quarts of oil. I ran the car for a while to check for leaks. I then checked the oil level. It was barely on the low end of the dipstick markings.

I checked the oil again today after driving it. Still in the low area.

Is there some magic trick to accurately measuring the oil level on the new Outbacks, or at least the H6 Outbacks? I have checked it immediately after turning the engine off and also after it has sat for 10 minutes. Same readings.

I guess it's possible that the 5 quart jug of oil was slightly under filled, but I am reluctant to add more oil until I know if it is really low or not.

Any hints?

Karl

locke2c · January 2006

take off the underbody trim piece and store it somewhere. when you go to sell/trade the vehicle, reinstall it.

you need to check the oil level on a cold engine. when hot, a lot of oil is out of the pan up in the cylinder heads. to compensate for this, some cars have a dipstick with a hot side and a cold side. I'm not sure if that's the case on a Subaru but even if it were, I still recommend checking the level when cold.

I never check the level on any of my vehicles right after a change btw. I meticulously put in the oil and I know that there isn't any way for it to get out, so I have the utmost confidence that there is the amount in there that I just put in.

I check the oil level after a while later and periodically between changes.

~Colin

xwesx · January 2006

Same here. My '96 is so finicky about being overfilled that I now add 4 quarts at the change and then check it again after I have driven it 250-300 miles, then top off if needed. The few times I second-guessed it I ended up slightly overfilling. Now that I finally managed to eliminate the external leaks, I hope to keep it that way!

fj60 · January 2006

Anyone else considering to install the sti performance gauge package? I'd hate to think I'm the only one foolish enough to spend the $700+ for it.

FJ60

rob_m · January 2006

I wanted the gauge pack for my LGT LTD the first time I saw them. They even do the sweep on startup just like the rest of the dash. Right now, I am torn between the gauges, or the STI lip spoiler for the trunk, which goes for $650. Rob M.

kens · January 2006

Karl,

Doesn't your 3.0R have a swing away panel that exposes the oil filter? On my GT wagon, I only need to remove three quarter turn fasteners with a screwdriver and I'm good to go. The drain spout is past the underbody gaurd and exposed. I've also added a Fumoto valve to make oil changes easier and neater.

As for the oil level, it can be tricky. Do you prime the oil filter and take that into account? What I usually do is err on the conservative side and stop at some amount I know is below the engine capacity. I then wait until the next morning when the engine is cold to top it off.

Ken

I also prefer the cold engine overnight method Colin mentioned.

zman3 · January 2006

Ken:

Yeah, it has a swing away panel but the fastener count is five. The 3.0 oil filter mounts sideways (horizontal) so you can not easily pre fill the filter. The drain plug is behind a cutout in the underbody guard, but the oil drips on the guard as it finishes trickling out at the end. It is just one more thing to wipe up when completed. I am considering the Fumoto valve. I'm just griping because it is not a 10 minute job anymore.

I haven't checked the oil when cold yet. My 98 2.5 seemed very insensitive to oil temp. It was very consistent in it's readings. I'll let it sit overnight and check it in the AM.

Thanks.

Karl

kens · January 2006

What a pain. I'd be that unscrewing the old filter also creates quite a mess too. At least with the vertical mount 2.5 filter, I can loosen it a few turns and let the oil dribble straight out first.

The Fumoto valve will get rid of that dripping at the end. Actually, I realized after my post and reading yours that the LGT also has the same drain plug/undergaurd cutout. When I was using the stock drain plug it would drip on a small section and pool on the cover.

The Fumoto valve allows for a much more smooth, laminar flow until the very end. Since it protrudes a bit beyond the stock plug, that last dribble and drips clear that little bit of undergaurd. So, now no more ratchet, no more cursing, fewer shop towels -- it's well worth it, IMO.

Ken

zman3 · January 2006

Ken:

Do you have the one with or without the rubber hose nipple?

Karl

kens · January 2006

No nipple. The one drawback to the Fumoto valve is that it does slow the flowrate somewhat (actually, that's probably why it doesn't make a mess). The nipple, I've read, makes it very slow and also sticks out a little more.

I've found smooth flow from the standard model to be quite easy to direct into my drain bucket.

Ken

zman3 · January 2006

Colin, Ken:

Hey. This forum is back!!!! I searched for it for a couple of days and Edmunds would not acknowledge it's existence.

Thanks for the input. With the engine cold the measurement is much closer to showing FULL. It still shows it as being slightly under filled, but I know how much oil I put in so I am leaning towards just leaving it as is and not topping it off.

Karl

usmc0369 · January 2006

After reading this forum, I just ordered one of those valves. I just bought a Outback 2.5XT in October. I noticed the dripping on the plastic, plus the area is tighter then the 1995 F-150 it replaced. And my wife says I waste to much time at work screwing around.

ejj · January 2006

I see that the rated towing is 2700 lbs. with trailer brakes. How close does anyone get to this? I'm looking at towing a 17-18 foot boat, and want to know other's experiences.

How much do the trailers weigh? Anyone know much on aluminum trailers?

xwesx · January 2006

This example is extreme, but a friend of mine towed a midget UHaul covered trailer (full) from Maryland to Alaska a few years back and his auto tranny died within 3 months of completing the trip. I would guess that the total weight at ~2500#. Empty boats are terribly light for their size; I used to move around an 18' ski boat on its trailer by hand. I'm sure a Subaru could pull it, but it might not be very happy about doing it too often or for too long.

I have no direct experience with my Subaru; I only tow my pickup truck up the driveway with it now and again.... but that is 3800# up a very steep grade!

kens · January 2006

Karl,

I would also err on the side of being slightly underfilled vs. slightly overfilled (relative to the "F" mark).

Ken

thenorthface · February 2006

A guy here in Sweden towed his caravan, about 1500kg, with -99 Subaru Outback from 1999 to 2005 for about 500.000miles (800.000km) with no breakdown. Regular service + som extra breakes etc. Didn't even need to replace springs or exhaust.

raybear · February 2006

You need to ask this question of your boat dealer, not the gang in here!

ejj · February 2006

Agreed, but most boat dealers are happy if you can sign on the line and tow the thing out the gates. They are worse than the worst car dealerships. Shoddy work and short-sighted design rules in the small boat world. People are generally under-educated compared to auto shopping. People buy mostly on looks and size. So much more is important if you want to keep the boat a few years. Caveat Emptor when it comes to boats...

era174 · February 2006

2006 Legacy Wagon 2.5i (base trim): Purchased three months ago.

I got an Accutire digital tire pressure gauge.

According to the gauge, my tire pressure was 31/30 psi front/rear while the manual recommends 33/32.

I measured once more with an old analog gauge and it showed 32/31.

So, I gave the digital gauge a chance and adjusted the pressure to 33/32.

OH MY, the ride became so FIRM. It used to be pretty SMOOTH and SOFT.

I'm wondering
(1) how accurate any Accutire digital gauge is

(2) if the tires deflated over the past 3 months (I replaced one tire due to a severe damage at a very low mileage).

(3) if the dealer intentionally deflated them for smooth riding.

c_hunter · February 2006

If you haven't checked your tires in 3 months, then weather is probably your biggest factor. You really need to check them every couple weeks at minimum, and certainly make seasonal adjustments.

Your tire pressure will even vary up and down 1-2 PSI within a couple days if the ambient temperature fluctuates or the tires are in the sun/shade. If you haven't been noticing that all along, then I suspect it's merely a psychological effect now (since you knowingly changed pressure this time). To be honest, +1 or +2 psi is noticeable, but not enough to dramatically alter the ride.

So I would attribute it to #4 (not shown on your list), which is lack of data! Check your tires more frequently.

Craig

ateixeira · February 2006

I've towed about a 1500 lb load with my '98 Forester and it fared well. Your platform is a lot more rigid and you have more power and torque so it should be able to handle more quite easily.

-juice

pf2001 · February 2006

Hi Ken,
Did you order the valve from their website or somewhere else on the web? After reading the posts, I'm looking into the valve myself.
Thanks.

goneskiian · February 2006

Has anyone added this after driving the stock shifter for a while? Did you think it was an improvement or not?

Contemplating this change but looking for some feedback.

Thanks!
-Ian

tsy · February 2006

Hi Ian

I had mine installed about 3 weeks after buying the car. I didn't have any real complaints about the stock shifter, but liked the idea of shorter shifts. The STi shifter still doesn't give really short shifts, more 'medium'. I think if I replaced the shift knob with a shorter one the shifts might feel shorter. It's a little crisper but takes more effort, and it's still not as sharp as say, an RX-8 or Honda S2000.

Overall, I like it. I paid about $350 to have it installed at the dealer I bought my car at, part of the 'option to purchase' when I made my deal.

I suppose you could test drive one at the dealer, some LGT's come with them installed. Or if you're ever in Seattle come take mine for a spin. I work right by REI downtown (Pill Hill).

tom

goneskiian · February 2006

Thanks Tom.

I guess I'm hoping for a little crisper shifting. I've read about others over on LGT.com going with either the Kartboy or Cobb and going as far as replacing bushings and even the transmission mount. I may have them install the STi tranny mount at the same time.

Thanks again for your input and test drive offer.

-Ian

kens · February 2006

Yes, I just ordered from www.fumotovalve.com directly although there seem to be quite a few resellers.

If you search through various owner's forums, you'll find a bunch of coupon codes that will save you some small amount of money.

Ken

era174 · February 2006

The following is from another forum.

How valid is his argument?
=====================================
I 'had' the Legacy GT on my list, but if you read any Legacy GT forum, you'll find that the 5speed automatic shudders constently when applying light throttle (ie: cruising). I test drove an '06 LGT Limited with the 5speed auto (wife + children soon + toodling around town = auto req'd) and found teh shudder to be rediculous!. How Subaru can sell a car that feels like it has a clutch that's engaging and disengaging several times a second (I know an auto doesn't have a clutch, it's simply the closest I can get to explaining the feeling) is beyond me!

It's sad, because otherwise I'd be negociating for an LGT, instead of saving a bit more for a S-Line.

c_hunter · February 2006

It's not the automatic trans, it's the engine and it's fairly minor. I believe it's a condition for which the ECU and boost controller may not be programmed properly. I am surprised it has not been fixed for 06.

I rarely encounter this in my OB XT, I'd say it happens less than 1% of the time. I love the car, and am far, far, more irritated by stuff like door dings than this particular issue. Who knows, perhaps it affects other people/cars more than me.

Craig

jae2 · February 2006

era174,
looking at similar OB to buy in canada, 2.5i 2006. is yours a legacy or OB, and where did you get it? the msrp is very high here compared to US prices.

thanks

pf2001 · February 2006

Thanks.

raybear · February 2006

They have a great spell check here, you should consider using it. I haven't seen or noticed this shudder.

tsy · February 2006

I'm not exactly sure what they're talking about. Is it engine hesitation? Vibration? Driveline lash? And with an Auto? Never seen it.

It sounds like either a bad test drive or un unhappy Subaru customer.

Go test drive one yourself. If you don't like it, buy something else. The GT is a great car, there's nothing in it's class in that price range or above, IMHO.

Good luck

tom

rob_m · February 2006

It's a known issue with many of the GT's. The car has a slight 'flutter' between 2500 and 3500 rpm.

I could make mine do it when the car was cold, and the A/C was running. Eventually it seems to disappear. Mine did at about 5k. 16k now, and smooth as silk. And no regrets! Rob M.

era174 · February 2006

jae2,
The Canadian msrp is higher indeed though Subaru puts heated front seats and some minor options as standard (less than 1K, I guess) in Canada.

People say the American msrp was higher a few years ago.

I heard Subaru dealers usually give 2 to 6% discounts off msrp in Canada.

I got my Legacy around 3% off. That means I got ripped off compared to happy American Subaru owners (I envy you, guys down there buying Subbies under invoice).

Before you go to a dealer, check out the following Canadian sites:

http://carcostcanada.com => dealer invoice prices

www.cybercars.ca => dealer invoice prices

Ask for real deal stories here.

era174 · February 2006

Thanks, Craig!

Even though I adjusted the pressure to 33/32 (front/rear) at a gas station (a little warm tires), it became 32/31 next morning (cold tires).

I'll check tire pressure more often.

tsy · February 2006

I know about the stuttering issue, but he's describing much more, or he's exaggerating. My car stutters occasionally, but not all the time, and certainly not on the freeway.

It just sounds to negative to be a real issue.

I agree with you Rob, definitely no regrets!

Dang, you're at 16k. I'm just passing 13.5K!

tom

goneskiian · February 2006

None here either (manual transmission).

You guys need to enjoy your GT's more! I'm nearly at 25K!

Cheers!
-Ian

garandman · February 2006

I called Manchester [NH] Subaru today to schedule an oil change on my 3.0R - 3K miles.

The service writer told me that they don't have anything in writing but Subaru does not recommend the use of synthetic oil in cars with variable valve timing. He stated further that it is too thin to activate the solenoids.

I can understand specifying a particular viscosity for a hydraulic VVT system. But what would that have to do with synthetic?

The guys on subaruoutback.org suggested there was a discussion about this here?

robbieg · February 2006

Just bought a new Legacy GT auto about a month ago. Anyhow, just hit 3500 miles and am about to get the oil changed for the first time. When I bought the car the salesman told me I had to frequently rotate the tires or else the all wheel drive will tear them up. Any truth to this? If so, how often should I do this?

Subaru Legacy/Outback 2005+

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