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Comments
that feel mushy and the pedal travels from the day they were new. I drove a rental chevy cavalier, saab and their
brakes stopped fast and held no pedal travel. I love the awd but am ready to trade it in.
I now have a 2005 Legacy GT Limited 5MT wagon. Those brakes are a tremendous improvement over the old Impreza, but they still leave much to be desired--the Audi A4 Avant and the Volvo V50 brakes are definitely superior.
I wouldn't ditch your car just yet, though. I've had thoughts about ditching my LGT but then I decided I'd rather spend a couple of thousand dollars on aftermarket modifications then have to spend even more money to replace my car with a new Audi or Volvo.
The great thing about Subarus, the Legacy and the Impreza in particular, is that there is a wealth of high-performance aftermarket products available. Subarus are a tuners dream car. You might want to check out www.legacygt.com for information about ways to improve your brakes.
Also, if you haven't already trashed the crappy OEM RE92 tires, replace them with a high performance tire--that will improve your stopping distances, too and dramatically change the vehicle's handling. I put Pirelli PZero Nero M+S tires on my car and would recommend them highly. For a little less money, I think the Toyo Proxes 4 is a good alternative. Both are all-season tires: passable in winter snow but not ideal for winter usage.
a lot of money are there better brake parts, pads, disc etc. without completely modifying the current set-up?
I knew the OEM tires were a disaster before I bought the car and replaced them the day I drove off the lot. It pays to research on tire rack. Thank you for your input
Pretty much every Subaru since the 1999 model year has used a dual-stage brake booster which I believe they are doing to reduce pedal effort. Unfortunately, it also reduces feel, especially in the initial pedal travel which feels squishy.
What can you do? Not much. A little bit of the squishy feeling is the rubber brake lines from the caliper to the chassis of the car. You can replace those with braided steel lines and it will help a little bit. I did that years ago on my (now long gone) '99 Impreza RS.
BTW, I agree that the pedal feel is a little nasty but it can go the other way too-- most late model BMWs I've driven have extremely touchy and overboosted brakes. I want to apply at least 40lb of force for max-effort braking, not 10lb. And I don't want half braking at 5lb of force, I just want to gently apply them.
Hope this helps. Your brakes are probably working fine, it's just that they weren't built to feel like the other vehicles you drove and you don't like it. Perfectly understandable.
~Colin
I have experienced this with both Subaru's brand new,not worried but not inspiring confidence either. Thanks for the suggestion of braided steel lines will use that in the future.
that hold the cover on, do they snap off or is there a tool
I need to remove them. before I break something I asking
for your advice as some of you probably did the coolant change. Thanks
My 2K OB has three white plastic/nylon pop-out retainers seated in black guide rings towards the front of the shield. I just pop them out with a standard screwdriver, pull out the guide rings, and slide the shield out forward (look out - it can have a fair amount of crud in it depending on how/where you drive). I'd imagine yours is similar.
Ken in Seattle
btw I wouldn't consider this a reason to sell a car!
~Colin
which I bought from an auto parts store. Is it ok to add a different brand to the original stuff that was put in at the factory, car is a year old with 7,000 miles. I've mixed
it before in my first sube and no issues. I'd hate to do something to void the warranty. Hope I didn't hurt my vehicle? :confuse:
thanks
iknev
VDC will spread to 9 Legacy/Outback models for MY07, but still not the base model you're considering.
-juice
Where did you hear this?? I was very disappointed that stability control was not optional on my 06 3.0R wagon. I may have waited a year if I had known it was going to become available, but at the time noone could answer the question.
Karl
-juice
Bob
Yes, the lack of stability control makes a huge difference. It will help if you start to lose control of the car. You might get a good discount on the insurance premiums too. The Rav4 is a great car, my friend has one and i've spent some time in it.
I have the 2005 Outback 2.5i and if I had to do it over again today I would get the Rav4. If you look at JD Powers rating of the Subaru Outback vs. the Rav4 you will know what I'm talking about.
Anyone of good dealers for subaru or toyota in and around milwaukee iknev1
Where stability control helps is with at the limit situations. The vehicle is able to sense imminent over/understeer and make corrections in ways not possible to the driver. And as you may know, the limits are approached a lot sooner in mud, snow and ice.
The downside to AWD and stability control is that it provides the inexperienced driver with a false sense of security. While both can help immensely in poor weather, they can not defy the laws of physics and at some point no system will be able to help your under/oversteer situation.
Ken
This weekend I installed Cobb front and rear tubular swaybars, Cobb front and rear billet endlinks, the Cobb double-adjustable short-throw shifter, and Cobb hardened shifter bushings. This transformation I'm calling "Spec C" following Subaru's "Spec B" (Bilstein) treatment of the Legacy GT. I also added to my vehicle a Subaru OEM subwoofer and STI (JDM spec) metal pedals.
I cannot begin to describe how much this has transformed the vehicle into a serious sporting machine (watch out Bimmers!). Prior to these modifications, I had seriously considered getting rid of my LGT and replacing it with an Audi A4 Avant or a Volvo V70R. While I loved the LGT's sweet engine (even though it is a thirsty beast), I was left unsatisfied with the handling capabilities because of the soft-tuned suspension.
With these "Spec C" modifications and my Pirelli PZero Nero M+S tires, I now feel the LGT is a worthy contender to its European rivals. The unpleasant body roll is now almost completely eliminated (I have the rear swaybar set at the softer setting--switching to the harder setting would probably eliminate lean completely). There is much less understeer now, and cornering is a true joy. Shifting gears is now short and precise, although perhaps a little more notchy than before. I feel like I have a new car--a car that I would actually want and buy if I didn't already own it!
The one modification I'm not thrilled with is the JDM spec STI metal pedals. I decided to buy the JDM spec rather than the USDM spec STI pedals because the JDM accelerator pedal is larger--this would make heel-toe downshifting easier (something at which I'm not very competent). Unfortunately, now the accelerator pedal and the brake pedal are very, very close together. If I'm not careful when braking, I'll unintentionally hit the accelerator as well. I'm concerned that when winter time comes around and I'm wearing boots, it may be difficult to brake without hitting the accelerator as well. I don't have huge feet (men's size 10). I suppose with time I'll get the hang of these new pedals, hopefully before I rear-end a vehicle in front of me!
So, to those of you who want to transform your '05-'06 Legacy, go the "Spec C" route--it's well worth the cost in my opinion. The Cobb parts mentioned cost me about $850 excluding shipping and installation. The STI pedals (both USDM or JDM) are overpriced--I now know I could have bought aftermarket pedals for half the price and they would have been just as good or better.
My next modification, which I'm considering for the future, is changing the springs and struts for Tein Flex coilovers with an EDFC controller. I'm not going to do this anytime soon--I'll wait until I get "bored" with my LGT again. Does anyone out there have experience with the Tein Flex coilovers on an LGT? I'd be interested to hear your experience.
I have not heard that stability control provides any insurance discount. FWIW for Liberty Mutual the 2 vehicles I have with ESC - Tribeca and Sienna do not have lower liability portion of the premium (presumably that is a function of both how often you crash and the results of that crash especially with respect to injuries as opposed to the collision portion which is a function of how much it costs to fix the damage) than any other of my other vehicles (I got 5 altogether) and are actually higher than my WRX which has the highest collision claims rate in its class (154) but the lowest injuries (74) - now does that say something about the structure of the WRX or what!
While I will certainly look for ESC on my future cars, especially for my kids who are getting to driving age, with a Subaru with good tires (and that also means winter ones for winter) I don't think having ESC will be a make or break deal.
By the way, I like - so far - the standard equipment all-season tires for summer use, and am rather confused as to why people revile them. The only negative I notice is that they're a bit noisy compared to the Yokohamas on the 2.5i.
=gregg=
Toyota's system seems to act early and often, the thing is it sort of spoils the fun, not letting you bring the tail out, and with hyper-active traction control it's hard to get any momentum in sand or snow. I'd at least like to see an off switch.
Also, the RAV4 got only 4 stars for the passenger in NHTSA frontal tests, all new Subies manage 5 star safety all around.
Sure, I want stability control, but I'd pick permanent AWD and better crash tests scores over that option alone.
-juice
I would be very cautious about any sort of coilover on a Legacy GT. It is not a WRX STi.. I wouldn't give up too much ride quality. That said-- you've already done everything you possibly can without touching the struts & springs, and they are pretty soft.
However, the thing that scares me is this:
"Front: 8kg, 448 lbs; Rear: 9kg, 504 lbs"
I don't know how the linkage works on the rear of the Legacy but I am sure that the front is a mcpherson strut which means 95-100% of the spring rate is the wheel rate. I had 8kg/m (448lb/in) springs up front with my Tein HAs and the ride was EXTREMELY rough on normal roads. Unless you have ridden in a car with this exact suspension on it and you are sure that you can live with it on a daily basis, I'd highly suggest that you look elsewhere. Your Legacy is a few hundred pounds heavier than my Impreza, but you'd still have a pretty dang high suspension frequency. It won't be nice.
~Colin
http://www.drive.com.au/editorial/ArticleDetail.aspx?ArticleID=11004
Proof that on paper does not mean in the real world. That test was in Australia, same place we got the aerial Forester photos from.
-juice
Have a problem that's cropped up on my 05 GT Wagon lately. After about 20,000 miles of fine service, I noticed it was idling kinda rough at a stop light one day. My buddy and I were both in the car and could feel it actually shaking the whole car. Was not a steady shake either. It comes at irregular intervals, then pauses for a second, then comes back.
I figured I'd wait until my next oil change to have it checked out, but about a week later I got a check engine light. Since the cruise was out because of it, I took it in that week. The code was for a cylinder missfire. Was told that one of the spark plugs was fouled and they moved the injectors around. They also reset the ECU. Anyway, they said it was likely bad gas and charged me $175 even though the car is under warranty because it's not Subaru's fault.
I understand the charge if the issue was indeed bad gas, but I use Shell 93 octane V-power exclusively. Bad gas seemed pretty unlikely to me.
I began filling up with Mobile gas after this. For about a week after taking it in, the idle was nice and smooth again. Then the vibration came back and has been back since.
I've read on other forums that some shake from the boxer engine is normal. Seems to me that if it didn't do it for the first 20K miles, and didn't do it after an ECU reset, it's not normal. I'd like to get this fixed, but I'm afraid to go back and get charged again. Another dealer isn't an option as they are too far away. Anybody else run into this? Any suggestions?
I suggest waiting a bit before asking the dealer to repair it.
Let us know what happens.
gearhead4
Ken
That does not sound normal to me either. They may have replaced the affected parts, but they obviously did not solve the root of the problem. I would recommend having it looked at again and soon (hopefully before a misfire occurs), but only AFTER you have called 800.SUBARU3.
What do the rest of you think?
I just placed a deposit on 2006 H-6 outback base cloth wagon in champagne opal gold. The msrp is 30,017 and we agreed on 25,000 dollars before tax, title and registration (99 dollars). I am happy with the deal, i will get the car on tuesday or wednesday. any thoughts
Have fun!
=gregg=
92 Legacy LS till 90K miles with no problems except the special air suspension specific to my model
92 Legacy L with almost 100K, had a few sensors replaced but all occured after the ext warranty was finished so that was a waste of $$! , sold it to my office manager whose daughter has run it to 240K with minimal to no maintenance except oil change!
98 Legacy GT with 125K now, needed most of the a/c replaced under ext warranty, had the cam seal oil leak also replaced under ext warranty and SOA paid for the timing belt too (dealer told them it was "damaged by the leak"), have also had uncovered items done free - HVAC bulb replacement, also went through 2 power antennas replaced under ext warranty
02 WRX - only has 30K so who knows what will happen
06 Tribeca - again too early to tell
I think its usually more the dealer being unresponsive than SOA, as I said, I've had stuff fixed under ext warranty which is really uncovered as the dealer bent over backwards!
coming from a "Honda family" I would say while the Subaru may not be as bullet proof as a 1980s/90s Honda/Toyota, it ain't bad and probably as good as recent Hondas from whats happening with others in my family.
Can't say I had a lot of luck with my Integra - new clutch at 30K -and only one I've ever replaced on a manual at that early a mileage, new a/c at 60K (just like my Legacy!!) - and engine shot at 80K (makes my Chevy Venture look good - that went to 120K!) - the lesson being, always, always replace a Honda water pump at 60K!.
thanks
The extended warranty you bought wouldn't help them when they did have problems as they were all in the range of 140,000 miles plus. Several of the 97-99 owners had the Phase I DOHC head gasket problem, about a $1,200 repair. I replaced mine preemptively. Another manufacturer who has had problems with head gaskets is Toyota....I also replaced the camshaft seals (4400) at around 110,000 miles, a wheel bearing at around 125,000 miles and an axle at 145,000 miles. Plus the usual brakes and tuneups.
My sister-in-law retired her 1997 Outback wagon at 244,000 miles - it was still running but pretty rough. She bought my 97 with "only" 165,000 miles on it. It has 175,000 now. She commutes 50 miles one way in VT.
I suppose some people will cross-shop a RAV4 and Outback wagon - presumably the AWD V6 versus one of the H6 models or turbos. We buy dedicated snows so I've never lost it in a situation where ESC might have helped, but in addition to the very well balanced drive system and suspension on the Subaru, the very sophisticated VDC system will be added to more vehicles for 07.
Driving down the road, windows fully UP, there is a light to medium vibration in the door or window. Pressing on the top of the door panel (the black part of my two tone doors) stops the rattle. Lower the window not even an inch, noise is gone. Its a vibrating noise, sometimes a rattle. Had the dealer take off the door panels, add some insulation and grease, behind the spot that you press to make the noise stop. Didn't work. Its both front doors. It is not the typical wind noise from the mirror gussets.
What could this be? To me, since it only happens with windows all the way up, it makes me wonder if the windows go up too high or something? Seriously, the noise stops if you lower the window just a smidge. Almost just enough to the point where air and or water still wouldn't get in past the rubber seals on the body of the car.
Dealer is annoyed with me, I am annoyed with the car, and on my last legs here. Anyone have the same experience? Get it fixed successfully? I have tried posting on a Legacy specific site, but no one has the problem, or they do any they don't care about it. I will admit, I like my cars not to rattle when they only have 2000 miles on them. I know others expect rattles in cars with framless windows...but I really don't think I am asking too much for them to be quiet for at least awhile....
Thanks for any advice/feedback you could give! I can't believe I am the only one out there with this problem, but I guess its possible.
I just had new sparkpugs & a timeing bellt installed & this didn't help at all. Help?????????????????
Does it crank normally? Do you have an alarm system with ignition kill that could be malfunctioning?
'96 Legacy falls outside of this thread, but think spark or fuel.
Spark. If the spark plug wires are original, try that first. Plugs if they're due. Then maybe the ignition coil, but don't panic that's just $80 or so from on-line wholesalers and you only need one.
Fuel. How old is your fuel filter? I'm on my 3rd one already, you should change it every 30k. Access is easy and they're cheap. Beyond that it could be the fuel pump or one of several sensors that is acting up. Do you get any Check-Engine Lights, is so do you have a code reader?
-juice
what is the best extended warranty on the subaru outback H-6 and how much does it usually cost? and I can buy it from another dealer other than the one I bought the car from. Am picking the car most probably tomorrow, will keep you guys posted, thanks
You can get the warranty from any dealer, not just the one you purchased from. Shop around since, like the vehicles, dealers will discount warranties.
The other important thing to keep in mind is that you can buy the extended warranty at any time during your 3-year factory warranty. While some people purchase up-front to roll into their financing, you basically are giving Subaru a free loan since the extended warranty doesn't kick in until your factory warranty expires.
Ken
If you feel like you're not getting anywhere, call 1-800-SUBARU3 for customer support and have them set up a case # for you. This way, Subaru themselves can check up on the progress of the repair to make sure it's being handled correctly.
Ken