Slick 50 and Synthetics

pcheng · February 2000

The reason for the difference is not the hours you put on the engine, but the amount of stress (for lack of a better word).

When an engine goes on the highway, the rpms are just over idle, and the engine runs cool. There is not accelerating to build extra heat.

When driving in the city, on average, the rpm is much higher, as you acceerate and change gears, plus, the engine needs to work harder accerate the weight of the car. Also, since you are generally moving slower at a higher rpm, the engine will build up more heat.

The two elements that wears out oil and filters is heat and dirt. As stated above, city driving generates more heat. If you drive for 1 hour with a 2 liter engine in the Hwy, you will pass 180,000 liters of air and dirt through your motor. If you drive in the city you will pass 360,000 liters of air and dirt through your engine:

City: (60min/1hr) x 1500rpm x 2.0l = 180,000l/hr
Hwy: (60min/1hr) x 3000rpm x 2.0l = 360,000l/hr

That means for that same hour of driving, you are passing twice as much air and dirt through your motor.

mgdvhman · February 2000

of people reporting about 3300 average miles on their oil change light intervals.
I drive a lot of highway and the intervals are like 4800 for my light.

Hell yes highway is less work on the engine and oil.

- Tim

stevek · February 2000

The oil change interval also depends on where you change your oil. Those cheap quick oil change places use recycled oil which is no way going to last more than 3K miles. At first I did not understand why the oil smells like s***t when I had it changed at an oil change place vs. when I do it myself. Recycled oil may look and feel clean when it goies into you vehicle but it breaks down a lot quicker. You are better of (in the winter) to take it to your friendly mechanic and have him change the oil, assuming he does not by the 50 gal recycled junk.

andy_jordan · February 2000

Missed the post for me about dusty conditions.

Short answer is I don't know why the schedule should be accelerated. Obviously it makes sense to change air filters more frequently - maybe manufacturers are just after easy money on more regular servicing (surely not). I have never seen a manual that differentiates between frequency of air filters in certain climates - always the frequency of the complete service.

z71bill · February 2000

Oil change light is not based on the kind of oil you use. The computer tracks how you drive, MPH, number of engine start ups - and determines what schedule you should be on. I do not disagree with you on using recycled oil, although I have seen studies that indicate it is just as good as new oil.

thundercloud47 · February 2000

I would like to add a comment here about slick 50. I started adding this to my 85 ford F-150 with the 351 windsor engine at 50,000 miles. At 190,000 miles I now need a new engine. I change the oil every 3,000 miles and baby'd the truck ever since it was new. As far as I am concerned the money I spent on slick 50 was wasted.

rrichf · February 2000

thunder
Would you elaborate more on the "new engine" bit and your usual driving habits? What you're saying is very interesting! What are the symptoms that led you down the path to "new engine"? Did you burn much oil? Do you do a lot of short runs? (2-3 miles) Was there another failure that precipitated the need for the new engine? It seems that anything above a Yugo should go 190K w/o needing to be replaced.
Rich

BTW
I just heard that the Yugo factory in Kosovo was bombed during the hostilities. I guess that we'll never see another new Yugo. Sob, sob :-)

rs_petty · February 2000

I'd say that 190k on an engine is pretty good. I've never had any engine go that long.

samirpowar · February 2000

I take it you've only owned big3? My little 86 Nissan has almost 200K miles, dosen't burn oil and just passed California's stringent smog test without so mush as an adjsutment. I too follow the 3000 miles oil change interval.

rs_petty · February 2000

A lot of different makes, but usually tire of the vehicle before I get that many miles. Usually, electronics go before the engine and I don't fool with electronics - trade it.

heimy · February 2000

I've been using Duralube (a Slick 50 competitor) off and on for several years, in several different vehicles. My conclusion: I don't have a clue if it's doing any good or not, but it seems a fairly cheap gamble without much of a downside. All I know is that when my vehicles turn to schidt, it's never the engine that goes first.

thundercloud47 · February 2000

sorry folks I forgot to mention that those are all highway miles. I almost always drive it a short way under the speed limit when cold and don't get up to full speed until the engine is warm.On rare occasion I do tow a 23ft trailer. What I mean by a new engine is the fact that I have a cracked piston sleeve along with a broken wrist pin. Repairs cost $700. at a ford dealership. I can get a rebuilt for $900.

tgr1 · February 2000

I just sold my '97 Dakota with 52K miles, and bought a '00 Dakota quad cab. I changed the oil in the '97 at a quickie place, every 4000 to 5000 miles. They used Pennzoil oil and filters. At 50K miles, there was so much black gunk under the valve covers, I got scared and decided to sell it. Now, at 3000 miles in the new truck I've switched to Mobil 1 10w-30, and I'll be changing it every 7500 miles from now on, the recommended interval. Also will be using Purolator Pure One filters, since I checked the minimopar site, and saw what junk the Pennzoils are, along with the Frams. Amzoil may be great stuff, but I'll never own the truck long enough to notice the diff. I expect to look under the valve covers at 50K, and see a brand new engine.

narg · February 2000

Didn't Consumer Reports do a study on Taxi Cabs. They found that you could use the cheapest oil you can buy, as long as you change it every 3000. They all did the same job. This was after something like 75K miles of testing. Synthetic or not. Very interesting....

bud_light_dude · February 2000

Oh geez. Another consumer report taken as anything but bull. Consumer "anything but factual" reports is what it should be.

Let us all know "when" your truck starts throwing parts through the hood.

mgdvhman · March 2000

As DLR once said..

"You read it!!??....Must be True!!"

- Tim

joe216 · March 2000

I have a 82' Chevy 3/4 pickup with a 6.2L diesel. I started using slick 50 just after breaking it in. I use Rotella 15w/40 every 3000 miles. I lost crank case bolt and oil in Dallas traffic in August heat. Drove 1 hr home and replace oil and filter. No problems. That happened last summer. I have 285,000 miles on it and it still starts within 3 seconds after cranking. I use 1 qt of oil between changes. I recommend using slick 50 every 30000 miles. Just my thoughts. Like it or lump it.

bud_light_dude · March 2000

I guess I will lump it AND all the snake oil treatments.

Waste of money.

joe216 · March 2000

Don't take the lump personally bud light dude. Using slick 50 may be a waste of money. I don't know, I hang wallpaper for a living. I do know that buying a new truck every few years is the biggest waste of money. $400 - $500 down the drain every month. So if slick 50 does work, GREAT! If not it only cost me $.58/ month to add it every two years. In the mean time I saved all those NEW truck payments.

budlitedude · March 2000

Snake oils like slick 50 do nothing but sludge up your engine. That "reduces" engine longevity.

joe216 · April 2000

budlitedude, The only thing that has caused any sludge in my engine was the time I used Penzoil. I did replaced the crankshaft bearings in 1987 and there was no sludge of any kind. As for longevity, 280,000 and still going. It must be good snake oil that Slick 50 puts in those quarts. I believe in Slick 50 and have the engine to prove it. By the way, how many miles have you gotten from your last engine??? Huh!

budlitedude · April 2000

I have more than one truck with the original engine and over 250k miles. Never used any snake oil either.

I put Slick 50 in an 88 GrandAm back in '90. Car never ran right after that. Think about it. #1, if it was that good a product, it would be treated with it from the start. #2 Since when is a good thing to have even micron sized particles of a solid like teflon to be floating around in your oil? All that crap about how the teflon "bonds" to engine parts. Get real. It is not possible for teflon to "bond" with engine parts...period!
#3 Again, if it is all that great, why do you have to treat your engine with it after so many miles of use? If the teflon bonded with the engine parts, it would be permanent.

Waste your money if you want. Any benefit you see in the product is placebo. Ever wondered why you never see ANY snake oil products at the race track? If any car could benenfit from such a product with its so called protective properties, it would be at the race track. Race car mechanics know that this stuff is a hoax and if anything will do more harm than good. I have never seen any reputable mechanic, race car driver, or reputable mechanical manufacturer promote these snake oil products other than their own people. With all the money that could be had from sponsorship, if they believed in the product, they would promote it. They don't, plain and simple.

joe216 · April 2000

I am glad to hear you have high miles on several of your vehicles. I do believe that good maintenance eliminates the need for most additives. Like I said before, Slick 50 has done me no harm. I was curious of your vibrant opposition to it though. Now I see. Good luck and many more mile to you. Oh, the reason most of the mechanics at the race track don't use products like these is because they hardly ever put more than 1000 miles on an engine before rebuilding it anyway. Later budlitedude. I prefer Coors light. Maybe we were born to be different.

budlitedude · April 2000

We are all different and that isn't a bad thing.

You are correct to a point about why snake oils are not at the track. 1. They rebuild so often 2. They don't want all the crud that builds up from oil additives. 3. it doesn't add any benefit.

If slick 50 reduced friction like they say, every Nascar racing today would be buying it by the 50 gal drum.

steve234 · April 2000

budlite, you need to get off the juice. I worked at a power plant that did extensive testing before using slick 50 on all its equipment (worth millions)It is not a cureall but it does protect the metal better than plain oil does. The catch is that many cheap slick 50 wantabes are worthless junk, so caution must be used. And if you think NASCAR race engines are using off the shelf oil, I think you have an additive in your beer. Race oils are formulated for the engines they are used in and the public is not privy to the composition. Oil manufacturers pay big money for that decal on the car and they are not going to give free credit to anyone.
Slick 50 is a decent product, one of the few additives I will use. It is not a cure for a bad engine, but if used every 50-60k miles, it will help an engine last longer, which is all it needs to do.

tireguy · April 2000

What do you guys think of Restore? I have a 78 Monte Carlo with a 305 which I just bought off my fiance's dad. It belonged to her grandmother, and in 22 years only saw 45K miles, it never traveled farther than church or Laneco; it never had a chance to warm up before being shut off. It doesn't consume any oil, but definitely doesn't have the power it should. I put Restore in it a month ago and after 1500 miles I am starting to notice a difference. A buddy of mine claims it burns up the rings. I'm probably going to install a new 350 in a year or so, so frankly I don't care if he's right. But I don't know if I'd use it in a car I actually care about. I wanted to do a compression test before and after but I was too much of a slacker. It seems like a good product. Any thoughts?

budlitedude · April 2000

You are probably an easy pushover for every telemarketer that calls your house too!

You may think I am sipping too much suds, but you are the sucker. I can at least get a good laugh out of all you snake oil users' stories!

A friend of mine does oil and fuel analysis for GM. Verifiably you are wasting your money. If you ever have a warranty repair and oil is questioned, he will tell you first hand that your oil "IS" sampled. If any trace of snake oil is found in your oil (and it is easy to tell), you AND your warranty will be sent packing. Seen it many many times. Good luck on that high dollar bottle of placebo.

LOL!

spike50 · April 2000

Had a '85 Volvo DL wagon from day one. Around 90K I put a bottle of Slick 50 in and drove it for about 3-4 months. After changing oil, filter and not putting in anymore Slick 50, it began burning a little bit of oil. Smoked on start-up but nothing too serious. It must have cleaned out the deposits that where keeping things sealed up.

I don't think it was "the mistake of a life-time" but I can't say that it really changed performance, etc.

steve234 · April 2000

Budlitedude, If the people that work with me heard what you stated, they'd be rolling down laughing. I don't do anything without proof. I cannot afford to. If you are happy with using only oil and do your maintenance regular, more power to you. There are a lot of lousy additives out there, but some do the job they claim. The trick is to distinquish which. Most oil used today contains compounds that originally were sold as additives.

budlitedude · April 2000

"Most oil used today contains compounds that originally were sold as additives."

I never found teflon in any motor oil I have ever seen. Any oil that contains anything a cheesy additive has in it, isn't worth the container it is distributed in.

You can't "teach" me anything about oil. I happen to be an Amsoil Rep and know a thing or two about oil. All the parafins and other waxes, etc that most oil companies use in their oil is crap! If you want better protection for your vehicle, you would educate yourself on the harm that "additives" produce in your engine. It is obvious you know nothing about the lubrication business.
Your comments tell me that you heard from a friend of a friend that Slick 50 was a great product.

Do yourself a favor and educate yourself on lubrication products and its properties. For instance, Amsoil's fluidity rating (it's ability to remain fluid)is guaranteed to -40 degrees. Stick a bottle of Slick 50 in a chiller down to even +10 degrees and it starts to gel up and thicken to the point it would cause damage to an engine.

No thanks. The laugh is still on you and your buddies that "know it all". Let me know how long it takes you to clean all the sludge out of your engine block when your engine prematurely smokes from excessive blow by and starts to run sluggish.

Some people just won't learn the easy way!

Good luck. This is the last response to you I care to make. If you had any valid points to make, I would continue to debate, but it is obvious you don't have any facts to provide. Throw me some facts. I would love to prove you wrong.

mviglianco1 · April 2000

I cant believe you are still trying to tell everyone how the world is. Has it ever occurred to you that maybe you dont know everything? It seems that your "facts" came right out of the advertisement that Amsoil sent me when I ordered the filter. How about enlightening us with some of those facts you are always demanding, havn't heard anything but anecdotes. Anyone can read and regurgitate the Amsoil brochure.

andy_jordan · April 2000

Are you now budlitedude because bud_lite_dude got thrown out?

Why would that have been I wonder!

mviglianco1 · April 2000

Keep talking buddy. Its awful easy to say that from behind your computer. Now the point is that despite how good amsoil may be, and I am sure it is, your spouting off nothing but propaganda supplied by the brochure. That certification is just a way to make you feel better about being a salesman for Amsoil. Just because you read the literature and tell people to supply your code when they buy oil doesn't make you a chemical engineer but as long as that phd in pyramid marketing makes you feel so significant go for it. With that attitude I dont think anyone here is going to buy through you.

mviglianco1 · April 2000

And I dont own a Tundra if you forgot this topic is Slick 50 and Synthitics

f350_or_bust · April 2000

Let's keep to the topic fellas...

mviglianco1 · April 2000

I have always put 10w 30 in my vehicles but my new Tacaoma's owner's manual suggests that 5W is preferred. I always considered 5W for cold climates but what if any benefits could I get from changing to 5W. I only have 6K on truck. Would there be any detrimental effects?

So long bud_lite_dude, budlitedude, bud@lite@dude, bud*lite*dude, bud__lite__dude !!

budlitedude · April 2000

You will see no detrimental affects. The engine is still tight and will actually run better with a lighter starting weight. Once running temp, it is 30 weight anyway. You will just have easier starts, especially in cold climates.

Older engines that are starting to get a lot of blow by or seepage past the rings can benefit from a thicker oil like 20w50. The thicker oil helps compensate for the looser tolerances.

BTW: I am not going anywhere.

mviglianco1 · April 2000

What benefits would i get from changing to Amsoil diff oil and when woud it make sense to change (again about 6K on vehicle)?

budlitedude3 · April 2000

I would wait until about 15k miles. That is when a new vehicle is pretty much 100% worn in. This is not absolutley necessary, just my preference.
Brand new sports cars and high end vehicles come straight from the factory with Synthetic oil. The only reason they all don't is $$. Saves the manuf. tons if they can put the vehicle out the door with the regular conventional oil.

You will have much better heat resistance and dissipation, better vescosity indexes, and more stable volitity (weight loss). The API rating is much higher. The API rating is what is used to rate the efficiency and wear protection of ANY oil. Higher API ratings (Amsoil was the first to have an API rated synthetic oil) also mean saving fuel due to the higher efficiency.

As far as the differential lube, this is more crucial than even the motor oil. Transmissions and gearboxes have way more heat built up in them than engine motor oil, especially when towing or downshifting often, or in 4X4 operation.

Lubricants like Mobil1 are excellent products in the lines of lubricants readily available in most Discount store chains, and for most people and driving conditions, will be more than sufficient.
However, with those lubes, they don't have near the longevity of protective properties as Amsoil and you must change them much more frequently to get the same protective benefits from them.
As with any lube though, the lube collects carbon blow by and dirt from use. If you use the Amsoil products with their extended drain intervals, you will still need to change the filter with a quality filter at the same intervals you would with any comparable lube (engine and transmission).

With the Amsoil 2000 0W30 engine oil, drain intervals are 1 year or 35,000 miles with a filter only change 1/2 way in between.

Amsoil and Mobil1 are very close in price so the extended drain interval Amsoil provides, even with a filter change in between, will save you money and provide the best lubrication money can buy.

I have used Redline and other oils similar to Amsoil. I stay with Amsoil simply because if you look at all the properties (oil sample analysis proves), Amsoil is just plain better. I could just as easily become a Redline distributor or not at all. I really do not make much money off of selling Amsoil. I remain a dealer primarily because I believe in the product and can get it for my personal use much cheaper if I am a dealer.

Try it for yourself. Only you can determine if it is right for you. I strongly suggest though that you do not buy into the snake oil crap. There has never been an oil additive made that was ever worth the container it is distributed in.
Any reputable and informed person will agree with that.

mviglianco1 · April 2000

If I switched to amsoil and say I sell the car, would the next owner need to continue with amsoil? I am curently using Mobil 1 mostly for the convenience of getting it at the store but am considering switching. i am definately going to switch to amsoil diff lube. Would I see a mpg increase with amsoil motor oil and diff fluid?

budlitedude3 · April 2000

As long as you stay with a synthetic oil, it really won't make much difference if you switch back. Where it would be significant is if the new owner were to start running conventional oil. It could cause the vehicle to start leaking oil. If they switched back to say Mobil1, they will not see any problems from the switch.

You may see an increase, but I wouln't count on a huge one. If you are already using Mobil1 and changing every 7.500 miles or less, you will probably not see much of a gain in mpg. I switched from Mobil1 to Amsoil in my wifes GrandAm and saw a slight increase in mpg (may have been placebo affect thought). What I really noticed was a much smoother idle and acceleration.
Made a world of difference in the driveability of the car. Another thing I noticed is that my oil stays golden looking much longer than it did with Mobil1. Nothing scientific as to why, just my perception.

You won't go wrong with Amsoil. It may be overkill for a lot of people, but if you are as hard on your truck as I am mine, it pays for itself very quickly. You would be absolutely amazed at how many over-the-road trucking companies use Amsoil in their tractor trailer rigs. Diesels are the worst on oil of any truck and Amsoil is proven to last up to 12 times longer than other synthetics for diesel applications.

Glad to see we can converse about something civilly. I don't know everything as you implied in previous posts, but I have been around the block a few times and I do have vast experience in a lot of diverse areas. I am not an oil expert, but I have done a lot of researching and now through Amsoil, I am certified to sell Amsoil lubricants. If there is something particular that I don't know, I have contacts to many Chemical Engineers that do.

mviglianco1 · April 2000

What about using the 2000 series 0w30 as opposed to the 5w30 (amsoil of course)? What do you use.

I guess its just that neither of us take sh**t from others and I dont know when to shut up.

harrydog1 · April 2000

I inherited a 1988 Ford Crown Victoria with 108,000 miles , it was used to vavoline 10w40, oil changed regularly and used about a quart every 1000 miles. I put a quart of Synthetic Slick 50 in for two oil changes in a row. Now the car doesn't use any oil( or less than a quart)between oil changes every 3,000 miles.That was 20,000 miles ago, and no I don't work for slick 50 and am not in the automotive business. I also had an ocassion to use there automatic transmission additive different car,I was on vacation and my car started acting up slipping on shift I thought i wasn't going to make it home. I put a pint in the transmission and drove straight through from Panama City, Fla. to Raleigh, N.C. the further i drove it the better it got,30,000 miles later i have changed the fluid but not the transmission.

redsilverado · April 2000

i've heard better stories from high school kids.

budlitedude3 · April 2000

I use 5W30 Amsoil. Of course, it never gets below about 0 degrees very often here in Kansas.

I would say that for all around use, 5W30 is a very good weight to use. If I were up in the Northern states, I would not use anything but 0W30 during the Winter months.

svadams · April 2000

Should be getting my Super Crew 5.4L in July. I believe I have read that Ford recommends 5w30. I live in North Florida. Would 5w30 be appropriate? Also, does anyone know if the Super Crew 5.4L comes with synthetic oil or conventional? Should I start using synthetic right away or wait for the engine to be 100% broken in? Any help would be appreciated.

rivera3 · April 2000

I used Mobil 1 in my '89 Ford Ranger for 10 years. I changed the oil at 10,000 mile intervals. I put 220,000 miles on the truck. It was still running good when I sold it. I was just tired of the truck and wanted something new. I took the valve cover off once not too long before I sold it out of curiosity. The inside of the cover was very clean. I was impressed. As far as being worried about condensation and gas in the oil, if you drive the vehicle long enough to get the oil hot, it will evaporate the water and gas out of the oil as you drive and will get sucked out by the crankcase ventilation system.

cdean · April 2000

svadams
Your truck will probably come with synthetic oil. look in the owners manual. for your climate, I would suggest 10W30, as long as it says its OK to in the owners manual.

cdean · April 2000

budlite dude

The reason oil turns from golden to black color is carbon. has nothing to do with the quality of the oil. different brands of oil darken quicker than others because they are naturally darker. Kendall is naturally much lighter in color than Delo. Delo darkens faster but that doesn't mean anything. Carbon in oil doesn't mean anything. its the break down of polymers that mean something.

the reason big rigs are hard on their oils is because of the high temps and heat flow in the diesels. they also carbon up worse than gas, so the oil will get blacker. but, like i said, not related to quality.

meredith · May 2000

After 30 or more days of inactivity....

this topic is being "frozen." It will be archived or deleted in the next 10 days or so.

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Slick 50 and Synthetics

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