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v6 or v4 engine?
RAV4 V6 4x4 Sport
Sport Appearance Package
Sport Extra Value
Tow Prep
Backup Monitor Mirror
Auto lights on/off
Floor Mats
I told them I had been looking online and saw that the average price for this vehicle was $27200 BEFORE the $500 rebate, and it INCLUDES the $800 destination. So all that's left would be taxes, tags and their document fee (27200 - 500 x .0317 + 60 + 340 = 27946 - OTD).
Their final offer to me was $29344. They pulled out the supposed factory invoice - which showed their invoice price as around 27300+/-. I noticed and questioned an additional charge of $500 for holdback - I said that I shouldn't have to pay the holdback - it makes no sense - that's what Toyota returns to the dealership. I was told, literally, "there's only one holdback, just one, that's all and that's it." WHAAADDDD??? Blah blah blah lick kill moist - if he had said that, it's just as informative, but at least it would have been entertaining!
Anyway, they let me walk. I've just searched fitzmall and found the exact vehicle with an internet price of 26806 - which includes freight. Add in the taxes, tags, and I've got a total right around 28000. I live in Northern VA, what are the implications of buying in Maryland? Could I still get it serviced in Virginia - or would they let the hammer fall and nail me each time I took it in for routine service (yes, I am paranoid - but this process is just so insane it makes me paranoid!).
Am I expecting too much - could it be because it's in Northern VA? I told them I had looked at the CRV but didn't care for it as it resembles a mini-van inside & out, but I also looked at the Nissan Rogue - which is a very nice vehicle, and I like that transmission. Granted, it's only a V4 - but it's also much cheaper - and I know a number of people with Nissans' that have had them for 8-12 years, so I think the quality is somewhat comparable.
My first choice is the RAV4 - but I can't get it in the color I want, they don't actually have it in stock - they've got to get it from another dealer and when it gets here it'll have over 100 miles on it.
I just don't get why they'd let me walk, after 12 years - my car is serviced there - REGULARLY - I just shelled out $2500 to get my camry's rear seal and other things fixed (I plan on giving my camry to my parents).
Looking forward to your thoughts and advice. . . Veronica!
I've bought 2 cars at this Boston area dealer. No real haggle on price, and they gave me decent value for my trade. (A 10 year old VW). I might have been able to do better on price, but the trade value I was given was $500 better than elsewhere, and I was not seeing $500 better prices.
Hit up the BDC's (internet department) at the local dealers. Boston has a lot of Toyota dealers so they compete aggressively against each other. Dunno about Rochester as it's a much smaller city.
I've found that some dealers will give price over the phone or email, some won't. If you won't give me a price over the phone, I'm not coming in. For me that simple, I got minorly burned (time only) with another dealer locally on a Highlander before buying the RAV.
My dealership is not the closest to my house but it's less than 20 minutes away. the closest is literally 5.
I'm not interested n the art of negotiating. I just want to buy a car at a good out the door price.
Our rav (had it for a week) is a base 4x4 with the EVP and floor mats. Sticker was $24019.
Hope this helps.
You can always go to www.fitzmall.com and check their prices for 'fair value' on a new Toyota. Make sure equipment is identical as different regions get differing equipment. My mom lives in Kentucky and they don't see many 4x4 RAVs. However we don;t see many 4x2's here in the Northeast.
I am planning to buy it today, please let me know.
I would shop other dealers and try to get prices on line from their Internet Sales dept. Another tactic is to call and see if the dealership has a Fleet Manager. Call the fleet manager and tell them you want to fax over a bid sheet. Type up a sheet stating what you want, make, model, options. Give them a day or two and then call back and ask them to fax you their best price.
One thing I have seen dealers do, in regards to warranty work only, is to make you wait for work on your car if you didn't purchase it there. You have to get in line for repairs and wait until they finish all warranty work on cars sold by them. This was at a Pontiac/GMC dealer where I saw this sign in the service department. I believe the manufacturer pays them much less per hour for labor than a customer.
MSRP $22,619
Cache Price $21,300
Rebate $1000
Trade-in (CARS) $4,500
So the cost of vehicle is $15800 (+ sales tax, DMV fee, etc.)
I think it's a pretty good price.
But I was probably ripped off by the finance guy. :mad:
I paid $1395 for 4 yrs (premium) prepaid maintenance plan.
Also paid $395 for alarm and $100 for 5 yrs theft protection (which pays $5000).
(BTW, what's Guarding alarm?)
Fortunately the maintenance plan can be canceled,
but the alarm and the protection probably can't.
This was my first new car purchase.
I did research the vehicle price, but I didn't expect the last minutes rip-off.
Sales guy knew my wife fell in love with the car and knew we had $4500 coming for clunker, a 99 Rodeo. I should have known that the guy was a shyster when he offered me only $2300 for potential trade-in. KBB said $3200.
So he hit us with 29,789 price. I argued that 28,500 would be fair. By the way, I have never paid over invoice for any new car. He then fooled me with the extra value pkg explanation that the car was already discounted by $2000 with this package. Beware of this ploy. I don't know why I fell for it. I knew better but we really wanted the car. Maybe I was exhausted and hungry too. I settled on $29,500. Then I got the extended warranty, the one for 6yr/100,000k for $895. We've had some issues with our 04 Accord so we bit on it. We did get the $4500 clunker and the $750 cash and got a great rate on a 63 month loan from a bank. 4.5% I think.
Lessons learned: Don't let them see/hear your emotions! Don't let them know you have a clunker ahead of time! Don't make an impulse decision!
I cost myself at least $20/month by my calculations. Time to move on and never go to this dealer again. But I think that we got a great car anyway so at least that's something...
In the San Diego Area, It seems that most are willing to come $2000 off MSRP but it is more difficult to get more. Toyota of Temecula advertises $2000 off MSRP any model and a couple others (e.g. Toyota of Poway, Bob Baker Toyota and Mossy Toyota) are offering discounts ranging from $2200 to $2800 off select base models (with few options). In each of those ads, the price applies to only a select few models (e.g. three at this price). I'm not sure if the discount will apply to any other cars, but I'm going to do my best this week to try and get similar MSRP discounts off a Sport model!
Anyone geting $2500 off MSRP (don't count rebates) in Southern California for the FWD 4Cylinder Sport?
Will do. Our tax rate is 8.75%, so yes, you did get more off MSRP than I had calculated (the difference being the extra tax). The tax rate reflects the city you live in, not the city of the dealership. So, if you live in a city with a 10.25% tax rate, then you pay that tax rate regardless of where you live.
You might want to try Toyota of Temecula, which is offering $2000 off MSRP any model and see if you can get them up to $2300 or so off MSRP. Then, bring the quote back to Longo for a match.
I'll let you know how my week goes.
Thanks, Don.
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Base model is fine fo our needs, We'll be ordering Weathertech mats soon. We've got them in our Sienna and love them. Best investment I've ever made in a car accessory.
FWD Sport Model 4 cylinder with Leather Premium Package, Back-up Monitor, QX Value Package, and Mats. Sticker was $27,074. Price agreed upon was $24,700 minus the $500 factory rebate = $24,200. This is before any taxes, licensing, ect.
On top of this, we used the CARS rebate. So total OTD was $21.8k or so....
This was about $500 below invoice.
I'm not so sure that good deals are going to stay though, I know the dealer I went to sold 96 cars over the weekend, and 2/3 of them used the CARS rebate. If demand stays high and inventory drops, it will be hard to negotiate a price below invoice.
I just purchased this same SUV here in Kentucky for $26,073 OTD. The dealers like to play there little games with “my manager said this and that” but if you persevere you can get a great deal. If you not in a hurry to purchase the vehicle I would wait until the end of the month or even better the quarter and they will come crawling back to you with a deal of a life time. Good luck and I hope you have a better experience with the car than I did. It’s been in the shop more than it’s been on the road.
Alonzo
:sick:
Thanks
I did want to let you know that I actually negotiated further down ($700 below invoice) to start with and we had an agreement at that price ($24.5k). This hit my OTD total of $22k. But both the guy I was dealing with and myself got a pleasant surprise about 1/2 way through the transaction ....it turns out that CARS rebate was NOT taxed. This saved us $400 in taxes. Thus, I volunteered to add $200 back into the price of the car and we would split the unexpected savings. I thought this was fair because it still came $200 below my OTD cost.
From then on, I was treated great! I didn't get pressured for any backend items.
If you closed on the car, and then you saw an available credit, you are SOL. That stands for sh*t out of luck.
They have the sticker price of $30169....am thinking for offering $28100-$28300 what do you guys think?
It comes with the QY package which is the first package with moonroof, leather, 120v, JBL speakers etc.
Might have the carpet and mat for $199.
Also this price I am offering should be based on the invoice including the $800 destination charge. The tax, and registration and doc fees would be added extra to the $28100? I said this price as I checked edmunds and kelly for the TMV (market value price) ppl are paying in my area.
I was also wondering if anyone knows what incentive would come august 4th? I hate to have buyers remorse Lol. Right now its 3.9% at 60months....Did or will the Rav4 get 0% apr financing?
The msrp is $30169 and he quoted me $28740.
This dealership also is exclusive in that it offers Free Lifetime powertrain warranty.
Is this a good price? I checked and the True market value price is $28596.
On 7/28 I purchased a 2009 RAV4 Limited, 4 cylinder 4WD in Black Forest Pearl.
Options:
QY – Limited Extra Value Pkg (w/o Nav)
CF – Carpet Mat set
MF – Mudguards
MSRP $28,338, Edmund’s invoice $26,018, dealer invoice $26,490 (including $472 Toyota Advertising fees).
I paid $25,670 + $279 dealer fee = $25,949 OTD (Nebraska residents pay TTL at the courthouse). My $4,500 Cash For Clunkers credit and $50 salvage value from a GMC pickup knocked my net amount down to $21,399.
Excluding the dealer fee, my discount was $2,668 (9.4%) below MSRP and $348 below Edmunds’ invoice after the $500 cash rebate. Beat Edmunds suggested price by $170 even without considering floor mats and mudguards. I’m pretty happy with this as the Black Forest color is relatively rare and the RAV had all I wanted and nothing I didn’t.
My negotiating consisted of about 5 e-mail exchanges and 5 minutes of phone calls. I never set foot in the dealership to haggle. I used www.Fitzmall.com prices to establish my baseline. I sealed this deal 11 days before Cash For Clunkers started, and the dealership was able to find the vehicle nearby and hold it for me with a Credit Card deposit. Dealer was very low-pressure on the aftermarket and extended warranty stuff.
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Could someone confirm that there is an on-going discount offer from Toyota that takes $2000 off this package?
Edmunds lists the QZ package MSRP as 2110. Does this mean it now costs only $100?
It seems people are getting around 2000 off MSRP in California. This discount takes into account the discount above? That is, you are NOT getting $4000 off, right?
Anyone else wondering if they are getting a good deal, consider Ted's 9.4% off MSRP a very good benchmark. You might not do quite that good with a Sport or Base model. Always look at fitzmall.com to compare with, too. They are kind of a national benchmark.
Ted....did you only e-mail to the dealer you bought from or did you e-mail 5 different dealers?
I only negotiated with the dealer I bought from. I had visited with the salesperson a couple months earlier, so he was aware I was tracking Cash For Clunkers. I figured if I didn't get a good deal from them I hadn't lost anything. I found the phone # and website for every dealer in a 200 mile radius, and was going to blanket all their Internet managers come July 24. I found the Black Forest RAV in a local inventory and made a move. Our next-to-last offers were $640 apart and I said I'd split the difference, take it or leave it. 5 minutes of phone calls later I had the price confirmed via e-mail. It makes the delivery process so much easier when you have the price established before you walk in.
I firmly believe that a dealer won't sell you a car if they're not making some money on it. If you feel you're getting a good deal, that's all that matters.
Your thoughts....
I just went to a local Toyota dealer in town this past weekend (8/1/09) and negotiated a lease on a new RAV4, 4WD, 6 cyc. Base model. I used Edmund's TMV price which came to $24,348.00 which includes the two options I wanted and the $800 destination charge.
The person I dealth with went to her finance person and said he could do that price. (to it we added $298 for two additional options that are on a car they have coming in soon)(Total now is : $24,646)
I have $1,000 down payment plus a $1,000 coupon the dealer advertised on their website that can be used towards new cars to increase your down pymt, getting more for your trade etc. My pymts would be $257.22 month with $2,000 down. ($285.75 mo. with $1,000 down)
I was expecting my $1,000 & their coupon of $1,000 to be subtracted off the agreed on price of $24,646 above. My lease pymts would now be based on the remaining $22,646. (I have been approved by TMCC already)
I have found out,however, that even though they did say they agreed on the TMV price ....they started at MSRP of $26,193, then subtracted their $1,000 coupon and another $547 because I am a previous Toyota buyer - not thru them however. That gets them down to the $24,646 I agreed on. Then....from there....they subtracted my $1,000 I have for a down pymt to get the lease amount to $ 23,646 (vs. $22,646 I was expecting) I have not signed any papers yet.
I explained to the sales person that I thought the $2,000 would be off the Edmund's price. They are just going by their Dealer price and they say they are very close to that. ($24,406.20) However.....the breakdown of their dealer price is... it starts at $22,191 then adds the Destination (which is fine), but also has TDA of $340..(I am told this is for advertising, $10.20 for gas, $498.00 for Dealer Holdback and $249.00 for Whsl. Financial Reserve.(I don't know what that is....!)
I feel I should not be paying these "other items!" under their dealer price- Just the $800 destination fee and that's it. Am I wrong?!
They said that they could go down another $146 dollars to an even $24,500 but that was the best they could do. I was thinking of calling them back and saying that if they go down to $24,000 they have a deal. Then at least my Lease pymts will be based on $23,000 after my $1,000 down pymt. Does this sound like a fair compromise? I would only be $354 higher than what I was expecting to be my Leased amount financed?