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I tried this on my first oil change, just a suggestion.
Reference Step #4:
On the 2nd skid plate, rather than pry the plastic oval access door off with a screw driver just reach over the top of the plate and tap down on any corner with your fingers, it will pop right off.
Just guessing that from multiple oil changes this plastic door will eventually crack or break from the prying? Maybe its an inexpensive replacement part, or at the very least, it should be.
....and on Step #7. What torque setting did you used for the drain plug? I believe it is 27 ft. lbs.
I agree with you about doing this job yourself. Why risk something as important as this at a fast lube shop with a 19 year old with two weeks experience. Do you think he will use the correct torque setting.
The oil and filter change on the 04 V8 is very easy to do.
Torque on the oil plug, no clue, just wanted to sound technical.
My next project will be lubing the 4WD propeller shafts to find out how many grease fitting for the U-joints.
Someone may advise us on the torque setting for the oil drain plug. My 2002 4Runner was 27 ft. lbs. so I am using that for now. I advise purchasing a torque wrench for this step. The bolt (plug) can be over tightened and strip the threads, this will cause a real inconvenience.
When you lube the 4WD propeller shafts and grease the U-joints, please do a step by step write up like you did for the oil change. This was very informative and useful information, it helps all of us maintain our trucks.
thank you,
<please do a step by step write up like you did for the oil change.>
Edmunds has the oil/filter change interval for the 4Runner at 5,000 miles - is this correct? It also has retorque the driveshaft bolts every 5,000 miles, which I've never heard of before. It seems like Edmunds might be going by a severe service schedule, since their intervals for some models don't match the Owner's Manuals.
Any input is appreciated.
ELECTRICAL:
1) Fan does not blow when is says it is blowing. I think it is freezing temp related. after about 30 miles and turning truck on then off "fixes" it.
2) radio volume gets (virtually stuck)knob turns but volume stays the same. I turn truck off then on. problem "fixed"
3) radio volume was silent, I couldn't even get static. I turn truck off then on. problem "fixed"
4)VSC error light came on and said "VSC off". I turn truck off then on. problem "fixed"
5) after spraying fluid on windshield, and the wipers wipe a few times..they fail to go all the way back down.
MECHANICAL & HARDWARE:
1) brakes squeal like a bus... hot or cold
2)belt make alot of noise for 1st few minutes of operation. almost sounds like bearings grinding too.
3)passenger vent broken on delivery (and was fixed by Dealer)
4)back passenger vents don't blow air
5)Side molding coming off by windshield and top of door (replaced by dealer)
6)plastic around door key hole was loose and wiggled.. dealer tightened it.
7)plastic cladding scratch with any slight metal object.
8) seat belt making marks on side center arm rest area when putting belt on and on side column near face when belt retracts back (really cheap plastic??)
9) yea everyone knows toyota stuck the cluster too far back and I cant see it... but officer really I couldn't see it... thanks for the ticket.
10)Windshield fluid doesn't spray in freezing temps.
I love my truck, I am not trying to bash Toyota or 4Runners. But these intermitant electrical problems will never be fixed because toyota can't witness them... thus refusing to fix it. And when I bring it in and show them the problem. they say set up an appointment. and when the problem goes away their obligation to fix the problem goes away. Any suggestions
other than that it's been perfectly reliable.
oh - and in MN its been -10to-50 below zero for almost 2 weeks - everything works
2003 SR5 V6
Torque for the oil pan bolt (from the repair manual) is 29 ft-lbs for the V8 and 30 ft-lbs for the V6. Use a 14 mm socket in each case.
The oil filter placement on the V6 is superb. There is even a "cup" to catch any oil that's spilled, and a drain pipe at the bottom of the cup. Why doesn't everybody do this? You can get some 5/16" soft tubing to channel the drainage from the cup, but I found a good alternative. I spent a couple of minutes using a stiff wire to make a hook to hang a disposable plastic cup under the filter drain assembly. Worked very well.
It's hard to get your head/body under the skid plates to see the drain plug unless you jack up the front a little or use ramps. Just a couple of inches of ramp would be enough to make things much easier.
It can be hard to read the dipstick, as oil gathers in the rather serpentine dipstick tube and adheres to the bottom of the dipstick when it's pulled out. You get strange and inconsistent readings. Seems best to pull the dipstick out and forward and look at the top side.
Anybody else find a very thin, fiber/metallic washer on the oil plug/pan? It's not at all like the thick fiber ones they sell you to use. No problem, but confusing.
And yes, toybox, I did test drive the car, but I do not have a lot of experience in that department and I guess I feel that I was duped somewhat, even though I should have known better. My car still had the plastic coating on it from shipment -- that coating that they put on cars to transport them. I was told that was causing the noise and that sounded quite logical to me. Like I said, I have another 4runner that is very quiet so I didn't question his explanation. I have learned my lesson, just like everyone has to learn their lesson, I guess, to never, never, never trust what a car salesman tells you without making them prove it. And no, toybox, my windshield has not broken yet, but I did have a car in the past that had to have SIX new windshields installed, so forgive me for getting a little paranoid in that department. Why are you being so harsh, anyway? Do you work for Toyota? I thought this area was meant for people to post complaints, comments, concerns, questions, or whatever? Am I wrong? I guess since I came fresh out of the horror of dealing with my salesman and the whole sales experience, I was finding it very hard to enjoy my new car. Now that the memory of that is fading, I am liking it a lot better. How about cutting a person a little slack, heh?
My 04 4Runner does not make this noise, Toyota must have changed something? And after 3000 miles my new Runner has also been perfect!!
I agree, it's unacceptable
Similarly, my rear view mirror is slightly loose such that it jiggles on rough roads. The dealer told me that it cannot be tightened. I guess they will just have to replace it then.
Another option you have with regards to your roof cargo bars is to remove them and see if you notice any improvement. Perhaps even installing a plastic wind deflector over the moonroof may be helpful.
thanks for any input.
Sorry for the use of your name, incorrectly, alfster1
As for the noise from the roof racks, there are some dots on the rails that show you where to place the crossbars if you want to reduce noise and and are free to place them where you want. I believe the dots are on the inside surface of the rails. That's the case with the '03 models anyway. It's probably covered in the manual, but I'm not sure.
Is it possible that some excess noise is coming from a radiator fan clutch that isn't disengaging properly? These vehicles do roar for 10-15 seconds after a cold start, before the fluid gets redistributed in the clutch. You can hear a definite drop-off in noise level then.
That is indeed indicative of the new V6. A member on another board had Toyota Corp. buy back their V6 (vehicle) because of the noise. Some V6 owners complain of this noise, others say they do not have the noise. So, it seems very intermittent.
Sorry to provide you info you were not seeking.