Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
Chris
Also, for those of you who change your own oil on your TL's, is there anything out of the ordinary that I would need to change my own oil and oil filter?? Are there any possibilities of leaks when switching to synthetic after 7k miles? Any special tools needed?
Any advice welcome!
I don't pay attention to the brand - I just make sure it's full synth.
I don't know that I benefit from the fact that full synth lasts longer b/c I always have the oil changed based on my 04 TL's reminder system, and I don't see how it could know whether I'm using synth or dino oil.
I heard the same things. A few people also told me it helps gas mileage. Do you do you own oil changes? I'm also wondering whether I need any special Acura tailored tools to change the oil and oil filter.
Synthetic is really good for ultra high heat situations, extreme cold weather starts, or heavy towing. You can also push your oil change intervals, but I wouldn't do that while you were under warranty.
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I have a 2007 TL for a little over a year with about 12000 miles on it. Service indicator tells me it needs B1 service. Called the dealership and was told b1 runs $240. Don't know if this is proper but feel like a rip off. Appreciate any suggestion.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
It seems I read in the paper a couple times a year someone getting smooshed by their car while they were under it.
Anyway, after I got the car back, the glove box door seemed to just plop down by gravity after opening it. I seem to remember that before I had the work done, the glove box door was damped or at least opened more slowly.
My question: Does the glove box door on the TL just drop down by gravity or is the door damped or sprung so its descent is more gradual than just a gravity drop?
Thank you.
Thanks!!
This is also exactly the same situation I had recently.
I am wondering if I ask you to tell me how you dealed with that problem.
I look forward to your response.
Thanks, Yongseob
I only put on about 6000 miles/year with many short trips. Dealer says wait until I get down to 20% of life. He says computer takes into account the short trips. I am at 6100 miles now and I'm at 30%. It's a leased car so I care a little less than if I owned it. Any thoughts? Seems like that computer is not taking into account my daily routine of 2 one mile trips to and from a train station.
I have just found out that at 105,000 miles I now need to have the timing belt, water pump and spark plugs replaced.
Is this really necessary at this time or can I wait a few thousand miles?
Any guidance will be most appreciated.
I have an '05 TL, just turned 53k miles. Great car.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
They've quoted me 1800 for everything. Does it seem a little early to be worring about replacing it? I'm always up to date on service but not ready to drop almost 2k.