Can anyone give me some insight on how to diagnose HID lights. I have an 03 3.2 TL. Right side light flicks on for a second and goes off. Left side doesnt come on at all. Fuses are both good. Talked to dealer and was told that the ignitor carries a pretty high charge (50,000 volts) and not to begin to try to DIY. From my research its not always the bulbs that are bad. But how do I diagnose without frying myself as the dealer kindly put it. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Chris
Hey fellas! So can anyone here give me a few opinions on moving to synthetic oil? I just got my 08 TL in December, and currently have 7k miles on the odometer. I'm thinkin switching to synthetic (Mobile 1 I heard is good??) for my second oil change. Is it worth it? What are the benifits/negatives of moving to synthetic?
Also, for those of you who change your own oil on your TL's, is there anything out of the ordinary that I would need to change my own oil and oil filter?? Are there any possibilities of leaks when switching to synthetic after 7k miles? Any special tools needed?
I'm not an all-knowing car guy, but I've heard enough people speak of the values of full-synth that I switched to it several years ago. Mainly what I heard is that it stays cleaner longer (so you can change it less often) and whatever parts get lubricated with oil get lubricated bettter with synth, so the car just holds up better over the long haul.
I don't pay attention to the brand - I just make sure it's full synth.
I don't know that I benefit from the fact that full synth lasts longer b/c I always have the oil changed based on my 04 TL's reminder system, and I don't see how it could know whether I'm using synth or dino oil.
I heard the same things. A few people also told me it helps gas mileage. Do you do you own oil changes? I'm also wondering whether I need any special Acura tailored tools to change the oil and oil filter.
The effect on gas mileage will be very small, maybe 1-3%. So if you get 20, you might get 20.4. So on a full tank of gas you might save $1 or so with gas at 4 a gallon.
Synthetic is really good for ultra high heat situations, extreme cold weather starts, or heavy towing. You can also push your oil change intervals, but I wouldn't do that while you were under warranty.
I've never changed oil on a TL so I don't know for sure, but I have a pretty long history with Honda vehicles and many oil changes performed on them. I've never needed any special tools to complete the changes. The only thing I think you need to worry about is that your new filter comes with a replacement drain bolt crush-washer or that your sure to pick one up. Good luck!
I have a 2007 TL for a little over a year with about 12000 miles on it. Service indicator tells me it needs B1 service. Called the dealership and was told b1 runs $240. Don't know if this is proper but feel like a rip off. Appreciate any suggestion.
Other than warranty work, generally any service performed at a dealer will be more expensive than an independent (or chain) shop, e.g. my Acura dealer charges $95 for A1, which is basically an oil change/tire rotation/balance iirc. I take it to a local tire chain who does the same thing for $35.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
My '08 TL-S is tready for its first oil change and I am wondering what folks prefer. Ramps or Jack Stands. If I use stands I could rotate my tires at the same.
Do we need a special tool to rotate tires on the 08 w/TPMS? I saw something on TV about having to "teach" the car which TPMS sensors are attached to which wheels...
Well, the TPMS may not care, but on the 08 we get a display of all 4 tires and the pressures in each. Without reprogramming the locations, the display might say the front driver tire is low when in reality it is the rear driver tire that is low, for example.
I have an '06 TL. I had the B12 maintenance done by my local Honda dealer (no Acura dealer in town). They changed the interior air filer which is accessed by taking off the glove box. I don't know what experience their mechanics have in removing the Acura glove box.
Anyway, after I got the car back, the glove box door seemed to just plop down by gravity after opening it. I seem to remember that before I had the work done, the glove box door was damped or at least opened more slowly.
My question: Does the glove box door on the TL just drop down by gravity or is the door damped or sprung so its descent is more gradual than just a gravity drop?
Has anyone replaced their OEM tires with Kumho Ecsta LX Platinum? If so, what do you think? Does anyone have a better suggestion in replacement tires for my TL?
I haven't had a oil change on my O8 since August of 08 at 3400 miles. I only put on about 6000 miles/year with many short trips. Dealer says wait until I get down to 20% of life. He says computer takes into account the short trips. I am at 6100 miles now and I'm at 30%. It's a leased car so I care a little less than if I owned it. Any thoughts? Seems like that computer is not taking into account my daily routine of 2 one mile trips to and from a train station.
Our 08 (bought in August 08) has about 5700 miles now and the oil indicator says 40%. Sounds about like yours. Oil has never been changed. Miles include two-2400 mile trips. We don't drive it much other than that.
The timing belt will start to make a whining/humming noise if it become frayed which you can hear with the hood up from the timing belt cover. If it is making a noise it needs to be replaced ASAP which usually takes 100k - 125k before they wear out. I follow the Acura maintenance schedule to have the timing belt, tensioner and water pump replaced which I believe is around 90k miles. If a timing belt breaks, most likely it will bend the valve stems and you will incur major engine repair cost. I would not wait much longer to have the belt replaced although it is expensive to have the parts replaced as there is a lot of labor hours involved.
We just had the same service (timing belt, water pump) done on my wife's '02 Lexus RX300 @90k miles. As recommended by Lexus. It is the cost (preventive maintenance) of keeping a car for a while. Not cheap, but cheaper than the potential damage done by the broken timing belt. Water pump is done at the same time as they both can be labor intensive, might as well use the labor at the same time.
I have an '05 TL, just turned 53k miles. Great car.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
I have a 2006 TL that was purchased in December 2005. It has only 59,000 miles. Acura dealer says to replace the timing belt and water pump at 7 years/105,000 miles. It's now been seven years but obviously miles are much lower. So what's more important - the passage of time or the number of miles? Do I wait?
I have a 2006 TL with just at 80k miles (origional owner). The last 2 times I've gone to the dealer for service they keep pushing the timing belt and pumps on me. I've declined so far but they're getting insistant saying if the belt goes I need a new engine etc.
They've quoted me 1800 for everything. Does it seem a little early to be worring about replacing it? I'm always up to date on service but not ready to drop almost 2k.
Comments
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
Chris
Also, for those of you who change your own oil on your TL's, is there anything out of the ordinary that I would need to change my own oil and oil filter?? Are there any possibilities of leaks when switching to synthetic after 7k miles? Any special tools needed?
Any advice welcome!
I don't pay attention to the brand - I just make sure it's full synth.
I don't know that I benefit from the fact that full synth lasts longer b/c I always have the oil changed based on my 04 TL's reminder system, and I don't see how it could know whether I'm using synth or dino oil.
I heard the same things. A few people also told me it helps gas mileage. Do you do you own oil changes? I'm also wondering whether I need any special Acura tailored tools to change the oil and oil filter.
Synthetic is really good for ultra high heat situations, extreme cold weather starts, or heavy towing. You can also push your oil change intervals, but I wouldn't do that while you were under warranty.
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I have a 2007 TL for a little over a year with about 12000 miles on it. Service indicator tells me it needs B1 service. Called the dealership and was told b1 runs $240. Don't know if this is proper but feel like a rip off. Appreciate any suggestion.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
It seems I read in the paper a couple times a year someone getting smooshed by their car while they were under it.
Anyway, after I got the car back, the glove box door seemed to just plop down by gravity after opening it. I seem to remember that before I had the work done, the glove box door was damped or at least opened more slowly.
My question: Does the glove box door on the TL just drop down by gravity or is the door damped or sprung so its descent is more gradual than just a gravity drop?
Thank you.
Thanks!!
This is also exactly the same situation I had recently.
I am wondering if I ask you to tell me how you dealed with that problem.
I look forward to your response.
Thanks, Yongseob
I only put on about 6000 miles/year with many short trips. Dealer says wait until I get down to 20% of life. He says computer takes into account the short trips. I am at 6100 miles now and I'm at 30%. It's a leased car so I care a little less than if I owned it. Any thoughts? Seems like that computer is not taking into account my daily routine of 2 one mile trips to and from a train station.
I have just found out that at 105,000 miles I now need to have the timing belt, water pump and spark plugs replaced.
Is this really necessary at this time or can I wait a few thousand miles?
Any guidance will be most appreciated.
I have an '05 TL, just turned 53k miles. Great car.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
They've quoted me 1800 for everything. Does it seem a little early to be worring about replacing it? I'm always up to date on service but not ready to drop almost 2k.