"The black dash on my 05 TL started to get that chalky appearance which has been written about on this forum numerous times. I rinsed it off with a mild dish detergent (polmolive) and water and let it dry. I then rubbed in several light coats of Low Gloss Armor-All with a light cloth. It looks like new, and with no heavy gloss. This appears to work fine."
I'm glad that this worked for you, but "Mild" and "Palmolive" should never be used in the same sentence when it comes to Car Detailing. It may be gentle on your hands, but it's horrible to a car.
Next time, I suggest a solution of 1 part Woolite to 6 parts Water. This works for all interior cleaning.
And where did you find the Low Gloss Armor-All? Has this been hibernating in your garage??? It's no longer available according to the responses to my inquiries to the company.
I just got the car a week ago and I noticed that I had 8 miles to go before empty. I went to the gas station and I filled it up, but when I got to 14.5 gallons, the gs filler lock as if to say the cr is already full. I went ahead and I "top it off" to about 15.1 gallons. My Owners manual indicates that the tank capacity is 17.1 gallons. Is there a reserve tank even though the indicators stated that I have about 8 miles to go. Is it because the car is new and this was basically the first tank of gas used in the vehicle. THe gas mileage ws not great the first week.I got about 18 in city/hwy driving. I would think this should improve in the next few months. Also I am not so sure what kind of gas the dealership used to fill up my tank once I bought the vehicle.
Regarding the Low-Gloss Armor-All, yes I've had it in my garage for some time. I got it at Wal-Mart. It figures that a good product like this would be discontinued. It's the story of my life with good products.
Regarding the Woolite and water solution, do you use it on your leather seats too?
I have owned this car for 24 months. Went to get gas, cranked it back up and DEAD battery. I was at a WalMart, so it was just easier to have them replace it. In my opinion, not worth going through the dealer hassel to get this pro-rated, etc. Typically with prev Honda's, I would get 36 months off of the factory battery...anyone else only get 24 months off of their's?
I got about 4 yrs out of our Honda Accord EX's battery. And it went dead cause I failed to completely shut the passenger side door one day, and the interior light stayed on all night.
Honda/Acura has always forgotten about that option. The lights should automatically turn off after so long
Most new models include some sort of battery protection like that.
I know what the owners manual says about the oil life % left - revolutions my foot!
I went from 100% to 90% when it hit 600 miles (I noticed it at 625.
It went from 90% down to 80% right at 1,200 miles
When I got home yesterday my odometer read 1,799 - so I flipped over to the oil life and it still read 80%.
Today as soon as I hit 1,801 miles it dropped down to 70%.
It does not seem to matter that 450 miles between 600 and 1,200 were one highway trip - it seems like its all just based on miles.
Anyone else find that the oil life % always changes every 600 miles? Maybe this is the max number of miles that can be driven before a drop in %? Anyone ever go more than 600 before a drop?
What is normal miles between a change in the life remaining indicator?
bdemarr, I had the same problem with my battery (2005 TL)after returning from a 10 day trip, Dealer replaced battery. 5 weeks later, returned from a 10 day trip, same problem. It was obvious a slow drain. After a week in the dealers bay, the culprit was my hands free device (bluetooth), the circuit never closed. I'm not confident how it will really go until I leave it parked for 7/8 days and it starts. Hopefully, yours was just that, a bad battery.
Acura will replace a bad battery for free (no charge for batter or installation) if it fails during the first 36 months - after that its pro rated.
In my experience once you get into the pro rated period it will actually cost you MORE to have the dealer replace it -
I had a battery go bad - I called the dealership and the guy told me a new one was $165. Even though the warranty covered part of the cost it was still cheaper and faster to just get Sams to put in a new battery.
My 22 month+ old '05 TL has been left in the garage without being started for periods of between 5-9 days, no dead battery. Knock plood!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
My experience is a little different than yours. I drive mostly highway miles with about 30% stop and go traffic a day.
I have gone about 1500-1800 miles before the oil life indicator drops 10%.
I have heard that the indicator changes based on the type of driving you do- highway vs. city, how hard you push the engine vs. being soft on the pedal, temperature outside, uphill and downhill driving, and general driving conditions like driving in a polluted area vs non- polluted area.
This is just what I heard and am told that TL's in different areas of the US have different intervals.
Seems like the rate your going your going to be forced to change your oil every 3k??
Thanks for your reply - strange that I seem to get EXACTLY 600 miles for every 10% drop - that would be 6,000 miles / not 3,000 - by the time I hit zero %.
I expected to change oil about every 6 months - thats about 4,000 miles the way we drive this car - mostly city stop and go. I told my wife - its too bad we can't take the TL on a few long trips - its really a great car on the open road. But we normally take our dogs - and the golden (90 pounds) fits better in the SUV.
Same here. It's not uncommon for mine to get parked for periods of 1 - 2 weeks straight. Always fires right up, no matter what the outside ambient temperature. :shades:
FYI, I have a maintenance service done on my 2006 tl at 5,090 miles for oil change (<15%) after 5 month worth of driving. My comute is ~20 miles for one way at ~24 mph.
I think that whole maintenance minder computer thing is a bit gimmicky anyway. It looks hi-tech and fancy, but probably, at the end of the day, you end up doing the oil changes at about the same intervals as before. I would much rather have a oil level indicator instead.
I am thinking about buying a TL. We have a one year old who rides in a front-facing car seat. My wife thinks that it would be extremely awkward to load our daughter into a car seat mounted in the middle or either side of the rear seat. Does anyone have any thoughts about the ease/awkwardness?
We have a 2 year old daughter (22.5 months) which rides in a car seat mounted on the right side rear seat (passenger side) - to allow easier interaction when I'm without my wife - and it loads and unloads pretty easy. Not as comfortable as in large SUV, but no complaints yet. Only a bit more uncomfortable than in the other car a 2005 Camry.
I purchased a new 2006 Acura TL with 13 miles on the odometer. It now has about 1200 miles. I've had the gear pop out from 1st or 2nd about 10 times so far. It happens when the car is rolling at about 10-15 miles/hour and my legs are not pressing the clutch or the accelerator. I took it to the dealership and got the usual "can't reproduce the problem message". Does anyone have this similar problem?
Have a 1999 tl and just turned over 100k miles. Runs very well. What is the practice regarding replacing the timing chain/belt. Have been told this is a necessity as the breakage of this chain would ruin total engine. Is this correct and what is the advice regarding this? Thanks for any info gandb777
Your TL has a timing belt, not a chain, and should be replaced at 74,000 miles. Honda's vtech engines are zero tolerance and if the belt breaks, kiss the motor goodbye... as it would cost more to repair the damage than what the car is worth.
Although it should be replaced at 74,000, I'll admit that I went 130,000 on my wife's Accord. Take it to the dealer if you can afford the bath.
I took ours to my very trusted mechanic and I think it was less than $250-, if I remember correctly. The belt itself is only $30-, the rest is labor.
According to the manual the timing belt should be changed at 105K miles, the dealer estimate was $822, local mechanic - $300, $400 with the recommended tune up
Its always a good idea to also change the tension pulley assembly (or what ever Acura calls it) when you are changing out the timing belt. I found this out the hard way - dealer never even ask me if I wanted it replaced while they were replacing the timing belt. It would have added $25 to the cost. It went out 30,000 miles after I had the belt replaced.
Also with many engines (not sure about the TL) all the labor required to replace the belt is also needed to get to the water pump. If I was planning on keeping the vehicle (and who would replace a timing belt if they were not) I would at least consider also replacing the pump with a rebuilt one. I did this with a Nissan and it only added $65 to the total cost.
I got the water pump done at the same time, since the mechanic was already going to be in there. It was a very small fee since the labor was already covered by the belt repair.
At 83,000, the oil jet kit was installed. At 97,000, the dealership checked the transmission and said everything is OK. Now, at 140,000, the transmission is slipping. Has anyone experienced the same issues? How did the dealer handle the repair?
I have an 06 tl with 8000 miles. I have paint chips in all areas from front, hood, fenders and rear bumper, acura dealer is not responsive. I have only drove in city and highway. Has anyone else experienced this problem.
"I have an 06 tl with 8000 miles. I have paint chips in all areas from front, hood, fenders and rear bumper, acura dealer is not responsive. I have only drove in city and highway. Has anyone else experienced this problem."
If you search through the forums, you'll see that a lot of people have paint chip problems.
Unfortunately this is a byproduct of new environmentally friendly low VOC paints. They chip MUCH more easily than older paints.
You'll see this problem occurring on all new vehicles, but the low profile cars like the TL, IS, TSX...they will suffer the most and the most damage is done while traveling on the highways.
The best defense is not driving away from the dealer at time of delivery without having a clear-bra installed first. Or, do the low cost option and keep some touch-up paint handy.
"I have only drove in city and highway" - So you don't take the TL OFFROAD? LOL
I would rather have chips in my paint than have a clear plastic bra on a car -
In my experience with new cars I seem to notice chips the second or third time I wash the vehicle. By this time I have 600 - 1,000 miles so it will have a few chips - its been the same on every car/truck I have ever owned.
i would say that it is specific to individual cars. I actually went to the dealership because this rattle is not normal at all. The dealer said that it was "normal" but for those of you with this same problem, it definitely is not. I got my windows tinted aftermarket( who gets factory Tints anyway??) so the guy said that he was unable to help me because i got my windows tinted. DO you think that my tints are the reason for the rattling?
Your service advisor is a liar! There is a specific TSB for this issue. Try to print it out so you could show him what the tech needs to do to fix the rattle.
Where would i be able to find this TSB? I've read other forums about how people hear rattling when their window is down and they close the door. I have this problem also. BUT this is not my biggest concern. When my windows are partially open, my windows rattle while im driving every time i hit a bump ( small or big), uneven surfaces, etc..I drive in NYC so the road conditions arent exactly superb.
Hey Everyone need some help is there a website or something on line to see if your 2003 Acura TL Type-S could possible be one of the vehicles effected by the 2nd gear transmission problem? Im about to buy it has 31,300 miles on it but i want to check somewhere to see if this vehicle was effected or not.
According to www.handsfreelink.com, the new Motorola Krzr (k1m) phone does not support call waiting. Really? I consider this to be a basic feature. Other phones support it, why not this one? Or does the website have it wrong?
As it is I am in need of a new phone and that and the Razr are at the top of my list. I like the Krzr more because it's not a wide as the Razr.
There were a bunch a posts at one point about the outside temp gauge going out and only showing "---".
I did a search but couldn't come up with any posts about what causes it, or if there is a permanent fix. Does anyone recall any information about that? Does it result in the battery-drain problem that some owners have experienced?
Well, I found a Service Bulletin (thru Acurazine.com) which says that the problem is caused by the Nav unit drawing power even after the car's been shut off. And the fix is to install a subcontrol unit behind the Nav, which means pulling the Nav off the dash to get in behind the unit. :sick: Anything to do with taking the dash apart makes me a bit queasy.
The Bulletin was actually for the '05 TL. I have an '04, but I called my dealer, and they said they have done a repair for an '04, so I made an appointment to bring it in. They have to do a diagnostic, then order the part. So it will be a 2-visit repair. :sick: I guess there is no simple reset procedure, unless someone else has had a different experience with this problem.
And, even if the outside temp display is not important to you, you can't ignore the problem because there is the possibility that the battery will drain and go dead, if the car is parked long enough.
EACH Keyless Transmitter on the 05TL has its OWN radio presets!! You must program the presets for each, or disable one transmitter if you use both. It's best to program both because if you disable one transmitter it also disables all the other features controlled by that transmitter (eg. seat & mirror positions). Here is the info I found in an Acura Service Bulletin, which info is NOT in the owner's manual (O/M)!!
"RADIO STATION PRESETS CHANGE BY THEMSELVES" "When you unlock the doors with a linked keyless remote on a ’05 TL, the Driver’s Position Memory System (DPMS) recalls the radio station presets associated with that remote (Driver 1 or Driver 2). This ’05 model feature isn’t mentioned in the O/M, so you might get clients complaining of the radio station presets changing for no apparent reason if they’re using a different linked keyless remote from the one they would normally use (Driver 1 is using Driver 2’s remote or vice versa). To disable this feature, unlink the keyless remote by pressing and holding the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons at the same time until the LED blinks twice. To enable it again, link the keyless remote by pressing and holding the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons at the same time until the LED blinks once."
Comments
I rinsed it off with a mild dish detergent (polmolive) and water and let it dry. I then rubbed in several light coats of Low Gloss Armor-All with a light cloth.
It looks like new, and with no heavy gloss. This appears to work fine."
I'm glad that this worked for you, but "Mild" and "Palmolive" should never be used in the same sentence when it comes to Car Detailing.
It may be gentle on your hands, but it's horrible to a car.
Next time, I suggest a solution of 1 part Woolite to 6 parts Water.
This works for all interior cleaning.
And where did you find the Low Gloss Armor-All?
Has this been hibernating in your garage???
It's no longer available according to the responses to my inquiries to the company.
Regarding the Woolite and water solution, do you use it on your leather seats too?
Actually there are TWO reserve amounts -
The low fuel light comes on when you gave 1.2 gallons left BEFORE GAS GAUGE SHOWS EMPTY.
Plus even when your gauge shows on E - there will still be some gas left.
I have driven a few times until the low fuel light came on and only put in 14.9 gallons - but I did not force feed it.
I figure there is a little over 2 gallons left before you run dry - after the low fuel light comes on.
Maybe we should see if the low fuel light comes on just as the MILES LEFT reaches O.
I suggest a nice leather conditioner once they have dried.
And it went dead cause I failed to completely shut the passenger side door one day, and the interior light stayed on all night.
Honda/Acura has always forgotten about that option.
The lights should automatically turn off after so long
Most new models include some sort of battery protection like that.
My fully loaded MDX Touring does not
I went from 100% to 90% when it hit 600 miles (I noticed it at 625.
It went from 90% down to 80% right at 1,200 miles
When I got home yesterday my odometer read 1,799 - so I flipped over to the oil life and it still read 80%.
Today as soon as I hit 1,801 miles it dropped down to 70%.
It does not seem to matter that 450 miles between 600 and 1,200 were one highway trip - it seems like its all just based on miles.
Anyone else find that the oil life % always changes every 600 miles? Maybe this is the max number of miles that can be driven before a drop in %? Anyone ever go more than 600 before a drop?
What is normal miles between a change in the life remaining indicator?
I had the same problem with my battery (2005 TL)after returning from a 10 day trip, Dealer replaced battery. 5 weeks later, returned from a 10 day trip, same problem.
It was obvious a slow drain. After a week in the dealers bay, the culprit was my hands free device (bluetooth), the circuit never closed. I'm not confident how it will really go until I leave it parked for 7/8 days and it starts.
Hopefully, yours was just that, a bad battery.
david
In my experience once you get into the pro rated period it will actually cost you MORE to have the dealer replace it -
I had a battery go bad - I called the dealership and the guy told me a new one was $165. Even though the warranty covered part of the cost it was still cheaper and faster to just get Sams to put in a new battery.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
I have gone about 1500-1800 miles before the oil life indicator drops 10%.
I have heard that the indicator changes based on the type of driving you do- highway vs. city, how hard you push the engine vs. being soft on the pedal, temperature outside, uphill and downhill driving, and general driving conditions like driving in a polluted area vs non- polluted area.
This is just what I heard and am told that TL's in different areas of the US have different intervals.
Seems like the rate your going your going to be forced to change your oil every 3k??
Hope this helps.
I expected to change oil about every 6 months - thats about 4,000 miles the way we drive this car - mostly city stop and go. I told my wife - its too bad we can't take the TL on a few long trips - its really a great car on the open road. But we normally take our dogs - and the golden (90 pounds) fits better in the SUV.
Wow, I am pretty bad at math!
5,090/85 = 59.88 miles per 1% drop or 598.8 miles for every 10% drop.
Pretty close to my 600 miles per ever 10%
Any chance that the first time its just 600 miles for every 10% drop - and then after break in it goes by actual revolutions?
Can we order the parts and replace them ourselves?
I ordered the parts from the dealer over the net,
(http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=TL- &catcgry2=2000&catcgry3=4DR+TL&catcgry5=REAR%2BDOOR%2BLINING&ListAll=All&vinsrch- =no)
part 8 and 11.
They are cheaper than local dealer's price and they deliver next day.
I installed the new armrests myself and took me one hour.
Thanks
Try accelerating in first and then letting off the gas abruptly. this should cause it to happen (make sure no one is behind you).
Thanks for any info gandb777
Honda's vtech engines are zero tolerance and if the belt breaks, kiss the motor goodbye... as it would cost more to repair the damage than what the car is worth.
Although it should be replaced at 74,000, I'll admit that I went 130,000 on my wife's Accord.
Take it to the dealer if you can afford the bath.
I took ours to my very trusted mechanic and I think it was less than $250-, if I remember correctly.
The belt itself is only $30-, the rest is labor.
I don't have a 99 or it's manual... I just ran a very quick online search.
Either way, I recommend the local mechanic if you trust his work.
Also with many engines (not sure about the TL) all the labor required to replace the belt is also needed to get to the water pump. If I was planning on keeping the vehicle (and who would replace a timing belt if they were not) I would at least consider also replacing the pump with a rebuilt one. I did this with a Nissan and it only added $65 to the total cost.
I got the water pump done at the same time, since the mechanic was already going to be in there.
It was a very small fee since the labor was already covered by the belt repair.
Very much recommended!
If you search through the forums, you'll see that a lot of people have paint chip problems.
Unfortunately this is a byproduct of new environmentally friendly low VOC paints. They chip MUCH more easily than older paints.
You'll see this problem occurring on all new vehicles, but the low profile cars like the TL, IS, TSX...they will suffer the most and the most damage is done while traveling on the highways.
The best defense is not driving away from the dealer at time of delivery without having a clear-bra installed first.
Or, do the low cost option and keep some touch-up paint handy.
I would rather have chips in my paint than have a clear plastic bra on a car -
In my experience with new cars I seem to notice chips the second or third time I wash the vehicle. By this time I have 600 - 1,000 miles so it will have a few chips - its been the same on every car/truck I have ever owned.
Your service advisor is a liar! There is a specific TSB for this issue. Try to print it out so you could show him what the tech needs to do to fix the rattle.
As it is I am in need of a new phone and that and the Razr are at the top of my list. I like the Krzr more because it's not a wide as the Razr.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Thanks
Mark "Stingray2019" Santora
I did a search but couldn't come up with any posts about what causes it, or if there is a permanent fix. Does anyone recall any information about that? Does it result in the battery-drain problem that some owners have experienced?
There is a TSB for this issue. Check on edmunds or acurazine for the fix.
The Bulletin was actually for the '05 TL. I have an '04, but I called my dealer, and they said they have done a repair for an '04, so I made an appointment to bring it in. They have to do a diagnostic, then order the part. So it will be a 2-visit repair. :sick: I guess there is no simple reset procedure, unless someone else has had a different experience with this problem.
And, even if the outside temp display is not important to you, you can't ignore the problem because there is the possibility that the battery will drain and go dead, if the car is parked long enough.
"RADIO STATION PRESETS
CHANGE BY THEMSELVES"
"When you unlock the doors with a linked keyless
remote on a ’05 TL, the Driver’s Position Memory
System (DPMS) recalls the radio station presets
associated with that remote (Driver 1 or Driver 2).
This ’05 model feature isn’t mentioned in the O/M,
so you might get clients complaining of the radio
station presets changing for no apparent reason if
they’re using a different linked keyless remote
from the one they would normally use (Driver 1 is
using Driver 2’s remote or vice versa).
To disable this feature, unlink the keyless remote
by pressing and holding the LOCK and UNLOCK
buttons at the same time until the LED blinks
twice. To enable it again, link the keyless remote
by pressing and holding the LOCK and UNLOCK
buttons at the same time until the LED blinks
once."