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I rinsed it off with a mild dish detergent (polmolive) and water and let it dry. I then rubbed in several light coats of Low Gloss Armor-All with a light cloth.
It looks like new, and with no heavy gloss. This appears to work fine."
I'm glad that this worked for you, but "Mild" and "Palmolive" should never be used in the same sentence when it comes to Car Detailing.
It may be gentle on your hands, but it's horrible to a car.
Next time, I suggest a solution of 1 part Woolite to 6 parts Water.
This works for all interior cleaning.
And where did you find the Low Gloss Armor-All?
Has this been hibernating in your garage???
It's no longer available according to the responses to my inquiries to the company.
Regarding the Woolite and water solution, do you use it on your leather seats too?
Actually there are TWO reserve amounts -
The low fuel light comes on when you gave 1.2 gallons left BEFORE GAS GAUGE SHOWS EMPTY.
Plus even when your gauge shows on E - there will still be some gas left.
I have driven a few times until the low fuel light came on and only put in 14.9 gallons - but I did not force feed it.
I figure there is a little over 2 gallons left before you run dry - after the low fuel light comes on.
Maybe we should see if the low fuel light comes on just as the MILES LEFT reaches O.
I suggest a nice leather conditioner once they have dried.
And it went dead cause I failed to completely shut the passenger side door one day, and the interior light stayed on all night.
Honda/Acura has always forgotten about that option.
The lights should automatically turn off after so long
Most new models include some sort of battery protection like that.
My fully loaded MDX Touring does not
I went from 100% to 90% when it hit 600 miles (I noticed it at 625.
It went from 90% down to 80% right at 1,200 miles
When I got home yesterday my odometer read 1,799 - so I flipped over to the oil life and it still read 80%.
Today as soon as I hit 1,801 miles it dropped down to 70%.
It does not seem to matter that 450 miles between 600 and 1,200 were one highway trip - it seems like its all just based on miles.
Anyone else find that the oil life % always changes every 600 miles? Maybe this is the max number of miles that can be driven before a drop in %? Anyone ever go more than 600 before a drop?
What is normal miles between a change in the life remaining indicator?
I had the same problem with my battery (2005 TL)after returning from a 10 day trip, Dealer replaced battery. 5 weeks later, returned from a 10 day trip, same problem.
It was obvious a slow drain. After a week in the dealers bay, the culprit was my hands free device (bluetooth), the circuit never closed. I'm not confident how it will really go until I leave it parked for 7/8 days and it starts.
Hopefully, yours was just that, a bad battery.
david
In my experience once you get into the pro rated period it will actually cost you MORE to have the dealer replace it -
I had a battery go bad - I called the dealership and the guy told me a new one was $165. Even though the warranty covered part of the cost it was still cheaper and faster to just get Sams to put in a new battery.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
I have gone about 1500-1800 miles before the oil life indicator drops 10%.
I have heard that the indicator changes based on the type of driving you do- highway vs. city, how hard you push the engine vs. being soft on the pedal, temperature outside, uphill and downhill driving, and general driving conditions like driving in a polluted area vs non- polluted area.
This is just what I heard and am told that TL's in different areas of the US have different intervals.
Seems like the rate your going your going to be forced to change your oil every 3k??
Hope this helps.
I expected to change oil about every 6 months - thats about 4,000 miles the way we drive this car - mostly city stop and go. I told my wife - its too bad we can't take the TL on a few long trips - its really a great car on the open road. But we normally take our dogs - and the golden (90 pounds) fits better in the SUV.
Wow, I am pretty bad at math!
5,090/85 = 59.88 miles per 1% drop or 598.8 miles for every 10% drop.
Pretty close to my 600 miles per ever 10%
Any chance that the first time its just 600 miles for every 10% drop - and then after break in it goes by actual revolutions?
Can we order the parts and replace them ourselves?
I ordered the parts from the dealer over the net,
(http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=TL- &catcgry2=2000&catcgry3=4DR+TL&catcgry5=REAR%2BDOOR%2BLINING&ListAll=All&vinsrch- =no)
part 8 and 11.
They are cheaper than local dealer's price and they deliver next day.
I installed the new armrests myself and took me one hour.
Thanks
Try accelerating in first and then letting off the gas abruptly. this should cause it to happen (make sure no one is behind you).
Thanks for any info gandb777
Honda's vtech engines are zero tolerance and if the belt breaks, kiss the motor goodbye... as it would cost more to repair the damage than what the car is worth.
Although it should be replaced at 74,000, I'll admit that I went 130,000 on my wife's Accord.
Take it to the dealer if you can afford the bath.
I took ours to my very trusted mechanic and I think it was less than $250-, if I remember correctly.
The belt itself is only $30-, the rest is labor.
I don't have a 99 or it's manual... I just ran a very quick online search.
Either way, I recommend the local mechanic if you trust his work.
Also with many engines (not sure about the TL) all the labor required to replace the belt is also needed to get to the water pump. If I was planning on keeping the vehicle (and who would replace a timing belt if they were not) I would at least consider also replacing the pump with a rebuilt one. I did this with a Nissan and it only added $65 to the total cost.
I got the water pump done at the same time, since the mechanic was already going to be in there.
It was a very small fee since the labor was already covered by the belt repair.
Very much recommended!
If you search through the forums, you'll see that a lot of people have paint chip problems.
Unfortunately this is a byproduct of new environmentally friendly low VOC paints. They chip MUCH more easily than older paints.
You'll see this problem occurring on all new vehicles, but the low profile cars like the TL, IS, TSX...they will suffer the most and the most damage is done while traveling on the highways.
The best defense is not driving away from the dealer at time of delivery without having a clear-bra installed first.
Or, do the low cost option and keep some touch-up paint handy.
I would rather have chips in my paint than have a clear plastic bra on a car -
In my experience with new cars I seem to notice chips the second or third time I wash the vehicle. By this time I have 600 - 1,000 miles so it will have a few chips - its been the same on every car/truck I have ever owned.
Your service advisor is a liar! There is a specific TSB for this issue. Try to print it out so you could show him what the tech needs to do to fix the rattle.
As it is I am in need of a new phone and that and the Razr are at the top of my list. I like the Krzr more because it's not a wide as the Razr.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Thanks
Mark "Stingray2019" Santora
I did a search but couldn't come up with any posts about what causes it, or if there is a permanent fix. Does anyone recall any information about that? Does it result in the battery-drain problem that some owners have experienced?
There is a TSB for this issue. Check on edmunds or acurazine for the fix.
The Bulletin was actually for the '05 TL. I have an '04, but I called my dealer, and they said they have done a repair for an '04, so I made an appointment to bring it in. They have to do a diagnostic, then order the part. So it will be a 2-visit repair. :sick: I guess there is no simple reset procedure, unless someone else has had a different experience with this problem.
And, even if the outside temp display is not important to you, you can't ignore the problem because there is the possibility that the battery will drain and go dead, if the car is parked long enough.
"RADIO STATION PRESETS
CHANGE BY THEMSELVES"
"When you unlock the doors with a linked keyless
remote on a ’05 TL, the Driver’s Position Memory
System (DPMS) recalls the radio station presets
associated with that remote (Driver 1 or Driver 2).
This ’05 model feature isn’t mentioned in the O/M,
so you might get clients complaining of the radio
station presets changing for no apparent reason if
they’re using a different linked keyless remote
from the one they would normally use (Driver 1 is
using Driver 2’s remote or vice versa).
To disable this feature, unlink the keyless remote
by pressing and holding the LOCK and UNLOCK
buttons at the same time until the LED blinks
twice. To enable it again, link the keyless remote
by pressing and holding the LOCK and UNLOCK
buttons at the same time until the LED blinks
once."