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Does it sound like there might be something fishy going on here, or is it just typos? I already ran a title check on the car VIN, and it does not show any other titles before my parents'. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
He would have to have the IQ of a cretin
Same goes for 80s-early 90s VW products. The speedometer would still work, and the odometer would turn a couple of miles a day, but that was it. i had a '85 Scirocco once that did that. It already showed 185K and it would turn a few miles on the first drive of the day and then wouldn't turn again until the next day. I probably put 100-150 miles a day on that car for the few weeks I had it and it maybe registered 30-40 miles in that time. I never could figure up gas mileage but at the time gas was $1.20 a gallon so I didn't care but it sure could go for nearly a week of pizza delivery on one tankful.
I have no problem buying TMU. But I would PREFER to see high mileage. For example, I'm considering buying a 2003 Grand Prix from a CL ad where the guy claims it has 231,000 miles on it. Why would I subject myself to that? It's a 2003 model car that doesn't look all beat up, air is cold, everything works but the back power windows, and it's only $1500! That's a down payment on any other 2003 sedan out there. If it was TMU it wouldn't be any cheaper and I wouldn't be as interested. I want to see those miles pile up!
If you're afraid of high miles on a used car, then buy a new car. I'd rather buy a five year old car with 200,000 miles on it than a five year old car with 50,000 miles on it. The 200K car is going to be dirt cheap, it had to have been maintained somewhat frequently to last that long, and it's going to have plenty more life in it. The 50K car is going to be expensive and probably over book for the low miles, and it may not have been well serviced. If you don't drive the car, you're not going to think about maintaining it on a regular basis. It gathers dust in the garage until it is needed and then it's put away without a second thought. It gets serviced maybe once a year. Yeah, I'm all for a 12 month, 10,000 mile oil change interval on a car that sits more than it gets driven. NOT! :P
I just found out today from Carfax that my car's odometer was set back
from 101,520-25,017 (7/8/2003)
The guy who sold me the car never mentioned anything about that happening, or about there being a tittle brand.
This part is irrelevant to the odometer reading, just my story of the worst mistake i have ever made.
I bought the car 3/8/10, then it got stolen for six month's around the date 1/1/2011. i got it back about 10 months ago. And the car has been broke down since before it was stolen.
This was the first car i ever bought on my own, and i paid 3,000$ cash for.
I was just wondering what i need to do to get this resolved?
How many miles did you think it had when you purchased it?
If it was stolen and missing for 6 months, why didn't you get paid by the insurance company for it?
In the end, $3k cash is not very much. That's beater money. You are going to pay that for a decent looking/running car no matter what, so the odometer rollback is kind of irrelevant at this point.
That generation of volkswagen is notoriously unreliable anyway. Avoid them in the future.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
ANYWAY -- presuming that eventually this story will make sense, I can tell you that the clock starts ticking on a fraud case NOT when you bought the car, but when you first discover the fraud.
also keep in mind that fraud is not easy to prove, and also keep in mind that CARFAX can make mistakes.
I imagine you "got the car back" because you didn't have it insured for theft in the first place.
If I were you, I'd get some free legal advice from your city or county legal services, and if, upon their review, you have a case, then go to Small Claims with this against the dealer.
but you need to sort this story out--it's very confusing and doesn't add up.
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'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I would be surprised if the odometer was actually "rolled back" as that is pretty damned difficult, if not impossible, on modern vehicles. In any case, stating it is TMU is all the disclosure I think they need to make.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Fraud is mighty difficult to prove---"misrepresentation' might be easier. I'd suggest you see a lawyer about this rather than get legal aid from here---there are too many variables, and we haven't seen the paperwork you signed either. If TMU is scrawled all over it, then you may have no recourse.
Central Florida. Just check them out searching for f-150 4x4 and most have mileage that is low considering the age. 3out of 3 is pretty good proof for me. Now when I ask for vin # so I can Carfax they don’t even answer.