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Buick Century Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • moparman444moparman444 Member Posts: 3
    did you ever find out what the problem is? I'm having very similar problems with my 95.
  • moparman444moparman444 Member Posts: 3
    Did you ever find out what the problem was? I'm having the almost exact same problem with my 95 Century. please let me know asap thanks.
  • kastmasterkastmaster Member Posts: 2
    When going from Park/Neutral to Reverse there's a loud 'clunk' and it jerks into gear. Does the same 'jerk' going into Drive but doesn't 'clunk'. All shifting in Drive is very smooth. This is my second transmission (professionally installed about 100,000 miles ago). Is the tranny going out or could it be something else (like the torqure converter.....etc)?
  • kastmasterkastmaster Member Posts: 2
    Not yet....I am going to take it in to either a transmission shop or repair shop (owned by a guy who worked as the head mechanic for our local Chevy dealership) sometime in the next 2 weeks. I'll post the findings.
  • jimmy124jimmy124 Member Posts: 4
    sounds like its loseing presser mybe the presser reg u should check it ....or hook up a fuel presser gag and check the psi and let it sit and see if it losses
    presser right off hand could be a few things as well
  • rupesatticrupesattic Member Posts: 1
    We have the same issue with our Buick same as yours and a 98. We still have the problem and have tried both keys that came with the car. Even our mechanic friend is perplexed. Any other thoughts on what could be the issue? We got it turning over but it won't fire. We changed the ignition switch and the starter even added a push button switch in it and still won't fire. Any one have any suggestions?

    Rupesattic
  • jaliv1jaliv1 Member Posts: 1
    All that is needed to replace the torque strut is to remove the bolt going through the hole in each end, then lift it out. To replace it, put the new part where the old one was and put the bolts back through the holes, then put on the nuts and tighten them. If memory serves, you will need a 13mm and a 15mm wrench to loosen and tighten the bolts and nuts.
  • keezymankeezyman Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 century. Last year I blew a head gasket, and replaced them as well as the LIM and UIM gaskets, and while i was there, i replaced the thermostat. Then this year, the car started over heating so I replaced the radiator and cap cause it was full of rust, as well as the water pump. Next day, I blew the LIM gasket. So I ripped it all apart again and replaced the gaskets again, including the heads again since i was right there. Now it's all back together, and i'm still over heating, and i have no heat out of the vents. If i step on the gas and get the rpms up, the heater kicks in and the car cools back down, as soon as i let off, it starts overheating again and i lose heat in the cabin again. I'm left with just a couple possiblilities i can think of, before i rip things apart again. Is it possible that the belt if too loose, because when i rev the engine, everything kicks in and works properly, or is it also possible that the thermostat is clogged or bad because of the rust that was in the radiator and flowing thru the system for the last year now, and one more thing, once the car comes up to temp, i open the bleeder valve on the thermostat housing and mostly only get air and steam out of it, if i rev the engine, i get coolant eventually come out. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and sorry for the long winded explanation.
  • redbird48redbird48 Member Posts: 17
    I also have a 2002 Century that was bought new in 2002. It sounds like you still have air trapped in the cooling system. Also you must still have rust and maybe even some motor oil in your cooling system. even a small amount of air in these Buicks will cause cooling problems and the heater to not work right. I hope you did not use cheap discount store gaskets to do your repair. Fel-Pro are some of the best and are recommended by many expert mechanics. You can use liquid Cascade automatic dishwasher soap to clean your cooling system before putting new fresh green anti-freeze back in the system. I do not recommend the Dexcool stuff that came in it. There were problems with it that were causing gasket problems. The green stuff works just fine and is cheaper. After you put the dish washing soap in your radiator drive it for a few days if it is not freezing where you live yet. after a few days drain it out then refill with plane water and drive a few more days to wash the soap out. Then fill with green anti-freeze and burp and bleed all the air out of the system with the 2 bleed screws. It is best to have the back wheels lower than the engine to get all the air out. This will cause the air to travel to the front of the engine where the bleeders are located. You may have to try several times to get all the air out , but it works this way. I wish you luck with your Buick.
  • keezymankeezyman Member Posts: 2
    No, I definitely used FelPro gaskets. And I need to replace one of the bleeder screws, the one on top of the water pump, I broke the head tightening it back down. And I will try the cascade thing to clean it out. Thanks for the info
  • charles_tcharles_t Member Posts: 2
    edited June 2016

    Where can I find 3 more of these rims they will fit on my 94 Buick Century but I have to get a suspension upgrade for it to utilize the P225/75/R15 since it bangs the fender flares so instead I have to get lower profile tires or same perimeter of the stock tires P185/65/R14 but the front tires won't need to be as wide as the rear end because the front axle is a bit wider than the rear axle, which is weird because I believe the short wheelbase for the rear axle is what's causing the car not to handle well on dirt roads.
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