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I installed a hitch on my 2004 RX 330, and I intend to tow a small 14-foot travel trailer (guessing the weight is ~1,500 lbs). The towing capacity of the vehicle and hitch is 3,500 lbs.
1. Has anyone had any issues with towing under similar conditions? Any tips/advice?
2. The tongue of the trailer pushes the back end of my vehicle down. I looked into installing a distributing hitch, but these types of hitches are not allowed for this vehicle. Does anyone have any information about reducing the pressure on the back of the vehicle, redistributing the weight, or adjusting the vehicle suspension?
Thanks in advance.
How much back of the RX is lowering? You think a 1500 pound trailer should not cause any noticeable lowering. Anyway, assuming you are not towing more than 2-3 times a year, less than 2000 miles each time, and not through hilly train, it is not worth getting into weight distribution or suspension modification. I would worry about the transmission than anything else in RX.
Make sure your transmission fluid/filter is changed every three years. Do not use cruise control on inclines, lower your speed if you notice too much down shifts, and you should be fine.
These FWD biased SUV/LUVs are not built to pull anything serious. They can handle a bike rack comfortably and that is about it.
Yellow OFF light started flashing, and after 2+ hours of "diagnosis" my dealer says the module has to be replaced for $1700. I have 96000 miles on this car, no one warned me the leveling thingee is no no. Car is comfortable on highway but after spending $2000 last month for the 90,000 check, it is WAY too expensive to own. I feel I have no choice here....cannot replace system with regular because cost more than fix....So much for the high rated dependable car reputation....(should have kept my '96 Camry) Any suggestions?
Lexus is going to be hearing from me lots, and your experience adds to building a case for commonality. One would ask, why did they only offer the leveling system in 2004? They knew.
I like your 4-runner idea...
Thanks.
What gives?
Please report it so the data people back in the home office can check it out. Thanks!
Am I crazy? I need more support here guys so they can see they are posting wrong info. Here is what Edmunds said:
Thank you for contacting Edmunds.com.
The frequency of service depends on your individual driving conditions. Our Maintenance Guide is based on "Normal" driving conditions. Here is an excerpt from the 2006 Lexus Maintenance Guide:
Depending on your circumstances, you should obtain maintenance for your Lexus every 5,000 miles or every 7,500 miles. Follow these guidelines to determine which interval to use.
5,000-Mile Intervals
Use 5,000-mile intervals if you primarily operate your vehicle under any of the following conditions:
- Driving on unpaved or dusty roads.
- Towing a trailer or using a camper or car-top carrier.
- Repeated trips of less than five miles in temperatures below freezing.
7,500-Mile Intervals
Use 7,500-mile intervals if you primarily operate your vehicle under conditions other than those listed above.
Most drivers will operate their vehicle in "Normal" conditions (the 7,500-Mile Interval conditions in this case). However, if you are driving in more severe conditions, including those not listed above, you may consider following the 5,000-Mile interval.
I hope this information was helpful to you. Please let us know if we may be of any further assistance.
Kind regards,
Edmunds.com Customer Support
www.edmunds.com
Where smart car buyers start®
Joe
Batterys are subject to infant failure as are all electric, electronic components. Or maybe you alternator is only charging the battery "just enough".
The RX330/350 is one of the most reliable, well built, well appointed luxury rides out there. I bought a 2004 for my sister in 2006, and last year bought a 2004 for my wife. The luxury, soild build/feel, and smoothness will spoil you.
Joe
With the Explorer if you happen to inadvertently use too much engine torque for roadbed conditions you will still have front traction with which to maintain directional control. With the RX's front torque biasing it will ALWAYS be the front wheels that first lose traction in this instance and absent TC intervention you will also have lost directional control.
That's why you will find TC, Traction Control, so horribly aggressive in the FWD or even the F/awd version of the RX, or any base FWD vehicle for that matter. Once the front wheelspin/slip is detected, the very instant front wheelspin/slip is detected, TC will dethrottle the engine and apply braking to the slipping wheel(s).
Meaning, in most cases....YOU'RE STUCK....!!
Public outcry about this shortcoming has been so widespread that later models, perhaps this one, have a TC off function. But it is worth keeping strong in mind that with TC turned off the RX may instantly become a horribly DANGEROUS vehicle when operating on the slippery stuff.
The random idiot lights turning on are also some sort of Toyota problem on the 04 Lexus and the 04 Sienna. Lexus/Toyota refuse to do anything about it. Although the vehicle drives wonderfully the manufacturer is no better then any other when it comes to owning up to systemic product defects. If you can get some sort of coverage included in your purchase you might want to do so if its at a reasonable price.
To rvm1: I have read about the headlight moisture issue and also about some issues with the "idiot" lights. Would it be wise to go ahead and seal them as a preventative measure or just wait and see if it happens? I will keep those things in mind and make sure I buy a certified Lexus with a 3 year, 100,000 mile warranty so they will be covered.
Thanks for your input! I really love the vehicle and understand that there are issues. Just hope the good outweighs the bad.
What are some things I can try to get this working again?
Are there instructions anywhere for a manual eject?
If there's really nothing I can do, can I at least get at the CD holder to remove my CDs? How hard is it to get in there?
I'm not really looking to get it fixed (I saw on here that Lexus wants $800 or something) and I'm not even looking to put in a 3rd party CD player. I can live without the CDs for now, I just want to get my CDs out and maybe just try a few things that might have some sort of chance at getting this working again.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
One CarSpace member got rid of an ERR message by cleaning the lens and demagnetizing the head.
I hate to replace the arm but I guess that's my next step. Any other ideas or am I just too dumb to figure out the blade.
Thankd
easypar
When I bought it it had a bad headlamp with water in it. I insisted that it be taken care of before I purchased it as well as take care of the chips and dings in the car. Neither were taken care of but I was promised it would be taken care of with my warranty and Lexus would not do it before I bought it. Luckily they changed the headlamp without out too much hassle but the would do nothing about the chips. Mine isn't too bad anyway so I can live with it.
My problem since day one is a whistling on the top of the drivers door. The molding
"sticks" to the windows. To the point in the summer time (when I don't use the windows much) they pull hard and "pop" to wind them down. You can see a line of black rubber on both front windows. I've had it in 5 times in 3 years to fix it. But they always say they reconditioned the seal and I shouldn't have any problem. It is never fixed. From the moment I get it back I can still hear the whistling noise. It is at the top back corner of the drivers door so it is right in your ear. Anyway, has anyone had this problem and if so what did they do to fix it.
Like I said I only have 3 weeks to get all fixed.
The only other problem is in the winter time (and one time in the summer) my nav system would not come on. It kept saying something like "Error code 3 (or whatever it was I don't remember)" and it would not come up. This has happened several times with the nav system. Is this something that would be covered by warranty? I have never taken it in for that as it is so sparatic.
I'm considering keeping this car as I love it and have had very little problem with it. Replaced one battery but that wasn't a big deal.
I'm looking at buying a 3rd party extended warranty (my boss owns a used car lot so I'm confident I'm not being ripped off).
I'm just a little scared of repair costs as our financial status has changed drastically since buying the car. I can't afford very expensive repairs now. But as I said it has been a good car except for thos few minor problems.
My only other thought is to buy a new 2010 Ford Edge but money wise I wouldn't be saving much on the monthly payment, but i would have a warranty. Just not the quality and build of the Lexus.
Any advice would be very much appreciated!
Nancy
Chips are not covered by warranty. Noise in drivers window sounds like there was a incomplete repair from damage to the door. I would strongly suggest a different dealer.
That's true enough but it's a failure/lie on the part of the dealer. This is why you NEVER take delivery on ANY vehicle until it is READY/AS AGREED TO. I'm beginning to think this is another sign of the "commoditization" of the Lexus brand. If not the entire brand then at least some of the dealers.
I wrote in another thread that I thought Lexus was going a bit down-market based on looking at the new ES and the attitude/treatment that I received at our local dealership. We puchased our '04 in Austin and had it serviced there until 18 months ago and they always treated us in the "Lexus" style. Our few experiences with Stevinson Lexus (Frederick CO) have left us cold and unimpressed. Enough so that we decided in about 30 minutes that this time out we were NOT buying a Lexus.
easypar
But on the other hand it is my feeling that the FWD Camry should have NEVER been marketed as a Lexus. Probably wouldn't be except for the need to give Lexus dealers something to sell, the ES250, back in ~1988, until REAL product arrived.
I haven't taken a look under the dash to see how accessible the motor is, thought I would post here. On my Maximas it was pretty straighforward, just drop the glove compartment and 3 screws, and the motor/fan package was moderately cheap.
I'd like to fix this before it becomes an issue with my wife, she doesn't drive as much as when she first bought this unit and I see no reason to not get 100K/10 years out of it. I'd hate to have that plan go awry because of something relatively cheap. I know it won't be cheap if it's a "dealer-maintenance" item.
Thanks in advance.
easypar
This is such a crappy design for a thremostat housing. I have the shop manual CD that shows the steps. I have never replaced ours though. I have replaced several thermostats before but none have seemed this complicated.
Joe
Last week, it started to leak more. Now I am in the middle of replacing it. It is amazing how many pieces you have to take out to get to the radiator.
Has anyone had their radiator go bad so soon?
Thanks,
Joe
Joe