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Cadillac Owners: Problems & Solutions
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the car seemed to ride very firm even at low speeds.The tire pressures were at 36 psi so no doubt dropping back to 30 would take the thump out of the ride but this is below recommended inflations.
I have found another in the province of Quebec this morning and when I questioned the sales manager of the Chevrolet dealership as to why the car was traded into them with only 12,500 kilometers (7 or 8.000 miles) his reply was "the owner found it rode to hard".
What is the word on the street in regard to the 03' and 04' models with the new magnaride suspension? GM's advertising hype would have you believing that it would have been softer until called upon the 'firm up'.
I have a 95 concourse. while tightning the pos batt. turminal I shorted the wrench on the engine mount, now it won't turn over or show anything on the dash. I checked every fuse I could find and they show good. what's the prob w/ this thing and how can I fix it before my wife kills me.
Thanks for any help you can give me. Bill
to normal - after about 20 min of this all is Ok. ???????????? Have heard "Ign switch is going bad-will not recognize key (Wifes key makes no diff.) Have any
of you had or heard of this prob.. Have about 77,500 mi on it..
HELP Charlie
I just had major problems with my 1991 DeVille. Had to replace the evaporator and the engine control module/computer. spent a lot of money and now they tell me that probably the body control modul is also not working properly. same with the control modul for the climatic, now that I have cold air it's only blowing out to the windshield, the other fans do not work.
do you think that the different modules/parts are identical with your car?
thanks
bop1956
ps ServiceID is:1G6CD53B1M4276846
HOW CAN I FIX IT
OK, need your help on this one:
2003 CTS, 3.2L, 5spd automatic, 57,000 miles, build date March 2002.
Owned since new, all service per schedule, Mobil 1 since 10k.
Check Coolant Level warning light came on a while back. Level was down about 1/2" below "Full When Cold" line, so I topped up with 50/50 Dexcool/H2O mixture. Figured that after 3.5 years and 55k+ miles it was normal. Took about 1.5 quarts of coolant mixture to top off.
Week later, noticed a small (3") stain/puddle of coolant on the driveway after being parked for a few days. Fluid level still OK. Another week or so of regular driving, level down again, another small puddle.
Dealer service put in the tracer dye, and tell me the leak is from the rubber seals on the engine oil cooler that is (inexplicably) placed under the intake manifold. Its purpose is to regulate engine oil temperature, and it is apparently a similar design as the Opel engineered 3.0L Catera DOHC engine on which the 3.2L is based. Dealer is aware of similar leaks in the Catera. :lemon:
Here's the problem:
The thing is so inaccessible that it's 6 shop hours to R&R, and when they get in there, it could require replacing the cooler itself ($250), all of the lines, etc. Since the seals are rubber (O-ring?) type, and not regular gasket material, dealer says adding leak-stop tabs won't work.
So far, no coolant in engine oil, no catastrophic leaks. Does anyone have an opinion/recommendation on what to do here? I'd prefer not to shell out upwards of $700 to fix what is currently a "nuisance" leak, but don't want to risk major engine damage, either :confuse:
THEY KNOW THEY HAVE A PROBLEM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Could any body help me ?
Another problem,,, the front lights, the right one seems to point in a different direction than the other one, it seems to be not alligned ... how could i allign this xenon lamp???
The installation required removing the trunk lining and removing the inoperative unit. I had to disassemble the pull-down mechanism housing and install the new part. Elapsed time was about 20 minutes start to finish. You should be sure that the mechanism is lubricated properly with white lithium grease.
Two things:
1. There is not, and hasn't been, any evidence from fluid leaking around my radiator (not obvious), and there was no 'snail' type of trail from beneath the radiator; so I don't know why it puddled up below the tranny. How can tranny fluid be of an oil consistency and at the same time orange-red?
2. The repiar shop wants $280, but in a couple of weeks, I want to trade it in on a new Cadillac DeVille. Am I going to see any residual benefit from repairing this before I trade it in?
The next day after driving my friend to the airport I stopped in at a gas station and returned after a few minutes to find the car would not start again. No interior lights, no dash read out - nothing. Someone tried to give me a jump, but to no avail. After sitting around chain smoking for 30 minutes the interior lights and dash display suddenly came back on and the car started perfectly.
I drove home and the next day I took the car on several short trips with no problems starting it. The voltage readout indicated the battery was running at a constant 13 volts. When I went to start the car this morning the keyless entry worked and the interior lights came on when I opened the door. Everything seemed fine. Then everything went dead again. No lights, no dash display. No noise whatsoever when I tried to start it. Unlike the last time, the interior lights have not come back on and the car remains completely dead.
Of note, the most recent cut off of all power occurred immediately after I placed my iPod into the car dock (which is connected to the cigarette lighter). The first two times I had left my iPod on when I shut my car off. Not sure if that matters, but please help.
I purchased a remanufactured master cylinder and was just called by the repair shop that I still did not have any rear brakes. I told them to troubleshoot it now but was not sure I could afford to have it fixed.
I've searched the internet for a brake system schematic/ drawing for this car but have not been able to locate one.
Is there anything common between both rear calibers that would prevent fluid from getting to both of them? I can't believe that both rear calibers could possibly go out at the same time.
Any help is appreciated.
I've got 2000 DHS that just made 70,000 miles. Car has been great. A few weeks ago my "check coolant level" message came on, so I checked it, it was low in the reservoir so I filled it up. The message went away and then about a week and a half to two weeks later it came on again, so I checked again and it was low in reservoir again and I sort of assumed I may have had an air bubble or something when I last filled it so I filled it again. Each fill up I had to raise the level in the reservoir at least 3 inches, (it was about 1/2 inch to an inch from the bottom). No overheating was happening whatsoever. The temp gauge didn't move at all, I'm pretty sure it was just the level in the reserve. I was watching both from the first time and then to the second time for leaks on the ground and there are none. The last fill up in the reservoir was last friday or so and my coolant level message came on again today. When I was driving on the highway today suddenly the "service engine soon" light came on blinking 4 or 5 times. I know that means a missifre occurred and I was wondering if it was related to my problem. My oil is not foamy or white or showing signs of water in it. I'm wondering if my head gasket is leaking. The engine seems to be running fine and producing plenty of power and this is the first time this has happened. The missfire light has never come on before. My plugs could need replacing and my oil is due for a change in the next few weeks, its at 9% life of so. Any help on my problem is appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
Today for the first time and somewhat a relief I discovered a small dip spot under the car while it was parked at work. It was orange and definately the coolant. These are the first drips I've seen. I'm going to investigate the hoses above that area.
Dave
Thanks
Dave