Did you recently rush to buy a new vehicle before tariff-related price hikes? A reporter is looking to speak with shoppers who felt pressure to act quickly due to expected cost increases; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com for more details by 4/24.
Chevrolet C/K vs Silverado
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
substantually more low-end torque on the 5.7L
compared to the new 5.3L (but the 5.3L wins
big-time at high rpm's)
better looking (my opinion)
more after-market add-ons available (but that's
quickly improving for the new trucks)
Good luck whatever you decide.
-powerisfun
the 6.0L is a HUGE improvement over the 5.7L. You can compare the torque curves at www.gmpowertrain.com . Of course, the 7.4L is available in the 3/4 ton C/K's. That would be my choice for a heavy-duty truck with torque (and the mileage is almost as good as the 6.0L).
-powerisfun
Was this intended as a derogatory statement of some sort, having no merit or were you actually making a good point about something somewhere?
I actually really like the Midwest since my sister lives out there in its largest city. OK!
PS: There's a least one thing we agree on naming our Town Hall persona's after beers.
-powerisfun
Anyone whos crys they are glad they waited...due to problems...is pulling their own leg.
yeah...here it may seem like a problem....but remember..people come here when they have problems.
the only combo that seems to give probs is an ext.cab 2WD with 3:42's
1500 Z71's..(which is about 85% of all sales) seem to be fine.
Get a reality check...the new Silverado is solid....especially in 2500.
The old 88 K1500 was great...but do I wish it was back???..hell no!
yeah the 350 had more torque than the 326 (5.3)...but the 5.3 has more HP....although I only know what the 6.0 is really like up close and long term..friggin' kick [non-permissible content removed]!
Out with the old....In with the new Silverado.
get over it man.....quit waiting....the future is here!
- Tim
But some of the tunes that were performed are a great idea for normal gas power versions boring out the cylinders to 346 ci or more and a 10.6:1 compression ratio, forged crank, vette 'rods,s' steel valves with titanium springs in ported and polished heads and one or two 'chargers or a blower. But if you really want to go fast not quick in your C/K or Silvo follow the ideas of the 'vette race car get a vette engine bore it to 6.0 and follow the rest of their examples like changing the valves among other things. The best truck to do this in would be a Slivo 1500 Reg Cab with 2wd unless you like the 4wd it really doesn't matter with all that power also make sure to slam , change the info gauges and speed governer. There are two great shows that
are on Saturday afternoons on this topic HP TV and Trucks both on TNN.
-Jim
to problems...is pulling their own leg."
In my case, because of the timing, I ended up paying $5000 less for a similarly equipped C/K
over a Silverado/New-Sierra. The only things I really envy about the new trucks is the 4-wheel disk brakes, and the high-end horsepower. But with $5000 that I saved, I can install a set of rear-disk brakes ($700 from JCWhitney) and a supercharger (which I'm planning on doing which would bring my horsepower to 350+) and still have $1000 left over. Plus the C/K's look better, IMO. I'm glad I waited.
"yeah...here it may seem like a problem....but
remember..people come here when they have problems."
That's true, but people also come here to brag and just because of their excitement for having gotten a new truck. I don't think it's as negatively biased as you think. Still, every other poster seems to be having some problems. You are correct about the 2500's, though, I've seen very little reports about any problems with them. I think the only one I've seen is the rough idle, but all the vortecs (including my 5.7L) seen to have some problem with that. I don't know if it's really even a problem.
"the only combo that seems to give probs is an
ext.cab 2WD with 3:42's"
That's not true. I've seen many others with 4WD and with 3.73's that are still having problems.
The new trucks are better, and the C/K's aren't without their problems, but the gamble seems higher risk in going with the Silverado/Sierra right now. Just my opinion.
-powerisfun
Quit crying and get one if you are "waiting" for them to be fixed.
Some 88's had problems too when the switched over...mine didn't.
The whole "don't buy the first model year" is justa crock now days.
Get real...Get A Silverado.
yeah...I like the C/K too... I like the 1970 style Chevy the best...
...But I'm willing to move on..
- Tim
-powerisfun
P.S. Don't make this personal by implying that I'm "crying". I don't appreciate that.
Many people are doing just that...crying about it.
If you take it as a direct comment to you...wasn't meant to be that way....
..Now quit crying!...(just kidding...have a beer)
- Tim
-powerisfun
....I'll take a beer....(a big surprise..eh?)
- Tim
staring slowly across the sky,
we said goodbye....
here is an idea for a song title...
"She chews tobacco...but she won't choose me!"
..or.."Ain't no trash been in my trailer since the day I threw you out!"
I can be a country song writer....I know it!
(Thanks to RD for the songs)
- Tim
-powerisfun
LOL
Rock and Roll baby!!
- Tim
She gave me the finger."
hehehhee
- Tim
....."I hope you are happy now that I'm sad?"..
Me too.
LOL!
LOL!
-powerisfun
OK
I'll stop now...
- Tim
I'm planning on trading it in for a Honda Accord, I don't need to be paying $30,000 for a truck that burns oil, so I'll just lower my payment and get a quality vehicle, and as far as a pickup, I'll just buy an old beater for a few thousand, anyway if the beater wastes oil, oh well it's normal right?
A quart in 3k miles is normal. The auto industry has said that for years. My past GM trucks have used a slight bit between oil changes, but nothing to complain about. Very similar to your report. All of my trucks have been very reliable and good trucks. They never had oil smoke coming out the tail pipe, but always a little low on oil between changes. A lot of that comes from conventional petroleum based oils. Most of oil consumption on new vehilces is from oil that has broken down in composition, not from poor tolerances of internal parts, etc.
If you want to stop or at least greatly reduce the oil consumption of your truck, use a good synthetic. If you are going to do it, now is much better than later. Synthetics break down much less quickly than conventionals and will be consumed much less. You may even eliminate the oil consumption all together.
You have a normal condition. Your reaction is what drives most people to erroneously blame the auto industry and slam car makes when there really wasn't a real problem. They usually buy something else, only to have some of the same problems with that vehicle and they slam that make also. Eventually they run out of vehicles to go to and they return to the brand that they had in the very beginning. Seen it too many times.
Me too. I'm going out right now, and trade my '99 oil burning Silverado for an Accord. Heck, most people don't need a truck, and and Accord has 90% of what most owners need, steering wheel, seats, wipers etc. If you need to haul something, well that's what UPS if for.
(LOL!)
the same brand of oil. Not to mention, I'm hard on them little four bangers, and they have always come through. I have nothing against chevy, I own a 72 pickup, which is hot rodded out, and it doesn't even burn a whole quart every 3,000. Of course back in 72 the original owner only paid oh maybe $1,200 for it, not $30,000 the price of an acre of land! And you want me to chance it an try synthetic, and what? Wait till it consumes a quart every 1,000 miles? I'd think about it before I go around calling people "Nieve".
You're nieve to get burnt by the GM corporation. They don't care about little old you or me, they're a billion dollar corporation!!!
You are a bitter person, but i've spent many years mechanic-ing, and i'm here to tell you that, the oil consumption is fine. Its not that your engine is crappy or worn out. I've put many miles on GMs, some used oil, some didn't. I've heard the later models use a little oil, and since I just bought a '98, i'm going to find out.
I know a guy who has a old 7.3 diesel Ford. From day 1, it used a quart of oil every 2,000 miles. It has been his business/work truck for 7 years. It now has 210,000 miles on it, and it still uses a quart of oil every 2,000 miles. And running strong.
Sorry you think GM all burned us. I'm satisfied, as well as Quad and BLD.
But i'm laughing at why you bought a truck in the first place if you're replacing it with a car...
Its normal. don't worry about it. That engine will outlast the rest of the truck. just keep an eye on the oil every 2 or 3 weeks.
Thank you and again, good luck with that Honda.
One would assume that there are major differences between a small car to a full-size truck. Would you use the 72 as the "utility" vehicle? A hot-rod?
I'm confused.
My 78 F-250 with the 351 has been burning up a quart of oil every 3-4k since Day One. That truck has outlasted many over the years for my firm. I think it was worth the extra 1.25.
Your last post is even more ignorant than your originals. Your batting average sucks.
most older vehicles burned oil when rings weren't properly seated. those vehicles engines only lasted 100,000 miles because the tight seal wore the rings quickly.
FAST FORWARD to 2000. engineering has improved. ring material is MUCH better and longer lasting. today's engines can go up to and over 300K w/o losing compression due to ringwear.
the price paid for this harder longer lasting material is difficult to fully seal and that it couldburn a little oil. some trucks do, some don't, BUT THEY ALL LAST.
For further reference, please reread post# 35. you didn't get a lemon. it will be naive and a poor decision to get rid of your truck for that reason alone. especially since it sounds like you like the truck.
not being condescending, just trying to help. i'm an ex-mechanic, currently a mechanical engineer. trust me, your truck will be fine.
Post#35, So you're tellin me that for $30k you get to keep an eye on the oil!? Maybe I should put a mini-intercom system and listen for knocks too huh?
just keep puttin it in and it'll be alright
What's wrong? Did I strike a nerve? I've owned more GM products in 15 years than you'll ever own. So why start a brand war and call ALL Fords junkers? Who is teh know-it-all now? Uh..response?
Did you notice that I said I had a 78? Do you think the comparable 350 and 360 of the day were better? Oh...like to hear this one. 283s? Yeah...stop qouting some stupid hot-rod mag--they weren't that great. Back then, people would kill for the Hemis. (whoops--He probably thinks ALL Dodges are crap too!)
I also own a personal 89 K-1500 to complement my 98 F-150. That 350 also eats oil--is it a lemon? Any comments?
Instead of a stupid brand war, I was merely pointing out in my earlier post that an $1.25 for an oil change is nothing to cry like a girl about. So your truck(as you claim you own) eats oil? So what? What self-respecting Chevy(or junker-ie-Ford/Dodge brand) owner would sell his truck for an ACCORD? Oh sure....you're also getting a junker? Sure--like that wouldn't have problems...LOL!!
You still do not make sense.
LOL
- Tim
I am through with my soapbox now.
Listen buddy, you need to calm down and actually listen. Your engine will be fine, and nothing is going to blow up. I don't know where you get this stuff from.
GM's are known for their valve guide stems leaking. rarely does the oil usage get as high as 1 qt per 1000.
BUT IF YOU HAD ACTUALLY READ ONE OF MY PREVIOUS POSTS, YOU WOULD REMEMBER THAT I TOLD YOU REPLACING THE VALVE GUIDE SEALS IS AN EASY, CHEAP OPERATION THAT CAN BE PERFORMED BY THE DEALERSHIP, or even the average shade tree mechanic. all you need is a couple of tools and an air compressor.
As Far as post #35, i don't know what kind of owner you are, but I keep an eye on the engine oil of all my items. Lawn mower, boat, car, weed eater, generator, etc. I don't care if the SOB costs $40 or $40,000, YOU SHOULD ALWAYS KEEP ON EYE ON THE OIL!!!! an inconspicous leak can occur in anything. if you are too lazy to pop the hood every 2 weeks, you should be taking a cab. that way you don't have to start it the car, put it in gear, use the blinker....
I've just been trying to help you make a good decision, but with your attitude, I'm going to make a new recomendation. Get rid of the truck. Someone else deserves the great GM powertrain more than you.
OK, Tim, I'm through. Think of this as a little relief pitching for you, ball is back in your glove.
I've put my soapbox away a long time ago....especially on useless topics like The Tundra!
OOPS
- Tim