The inverter for the rear outlet is located under the center console inside the truck. There is already a mod floating around to add an outlet inside the truck (in the center console) but it runs off the stock inverter.
pb2themax is probably right on in that it may be just as easy or an even better option to just hardwire a new inverter (a litte more powerful than 400watts is ideal). with a switch of course. This is probably the way I will eventually go (summer project) particulary after I get my dual battery setup running.
I had a bunch of pictures lined up to show that 265/75R16's would fit on a Tacoma no problem but apparently Edmunds dosn't like it when you link to other sites with forums. They took down my post which had like 20 pictures of TRD and non-TRD prerunners with 265's
If you guys look around out there you'll find alot of pictures of 265/75's on 2005 tacomas. No rub.
Does anybody have a recommendation for a leather cleaner and conditioner? Toyota recommends a wool cleaner, but I want to protect and condition it as well.
Just wanted to provide the lastest update to all of you who were asking about the Tuff Tonno III installation.
Issues: 1)I only received one size of clamps to connect the tonno to the bed. The directions state that there should be 2 Short and 4 Medium Clamps.
2)Two of the brackets that connect the clamps to the Deck Rail system have stripped screw holes.
The installation is easy and the tonno stays on tight(even with the wrong size clamps and 2 bad brackets). It fits well and is somewhat low profile, except for the tailgate area. There is about an inch of foam so that you can open and close the gate. But my wife gave it an ok, so I'm good. I'm going to call Extang to get the correct clamps and brackets today. They have a 1-800 number for missing parts. Don't worry about the tongue and groove system, because it's pretty tight. The tarp itself seems pretty durable.
Bottom Line - It looks pretty good, costs nothing ($215) and seems to do it's job. Once I get the the right parts, I'll take some pics and post for those of you who are interested.
I use Meguire's Leather Gold (or something like that). It works wonderfully. Comes in a spray or wipes but I like the spray. No gloss at all and holds up very well.
The gas mileage advertised by Toyota (or any make really) is very misleading. The driving conditions are very controlled and the highway mileage they list is usually based on something like 55mph. I find that if I set the cruise between 65-68 I get around 20 MPG pretty consistently. Even pulling my trailer which between the trailer, atv, and gear adds a good 900lbs of weight and I still manage about 300 miles to a tank (I get around 350 without the trailer).
Latest update- Just talked to the Extang rep. It seems they have changed a few things since mine was built (clamps, sizing, etc). They will be shipping me a new one tomorrow. Very knowledgeable reps.
This is a re-post of an earlier question and I hope somebody out there will have suggestions or an answer:
recently posted on the board for help in finding an opening in the firewall in which to pull control wiring thru for aftermarket lights on my Taco. (thanks Volley) I installed new rocker switches in two of the lower unused switch openings on the dash and in doing so, found behind and stuck into the left most blank filler plate, a wiring plug that obviously is unused but is tied into the under dash harness.
I have an 05 taco, v6 d-cab, long bed with the TRD sport package. One of the options that doesn't come with that package is the "downhill assist control system". After reading the owner's manual, I saw that the control for the that option is located at that switch location which is the first opening to the right of the mirror control panel. That's where I found the harness connection. Reviewing the fuses under the dash and underhood gave me no clue as to whether or not the system exists on my truck since the manual is all encompassing for all models and options.
So my question to all of you folks who know more about the 05 taco than me since this is my first one, is, if the wiring is in place to control what I assume is the downhill assist system, do the mechanicals/electronics for that system actually exist on the truck and can the system be made operational by obtaining the proper switch from Toyota and plugging into the harness? If I asked the dealer(Stealer)about this, what are my chances I would get a straight answer?
I noticed the wiring as well when I was doing the power outlet mod on my truck. (This is a must do mod by the way for anyone that uses the 12V outlets inside the truck regularly). I saw also that a harness is there where the downhill assist would be, however, I do not know if it is a dummy harness or what. I'll see what kind of info I can find out.
Are they shipping you a whole new cover?? That is fantastic if they do. I just ordered the Extang Tuff III last week from autoanything.com, it should be here any day now. What have they changed so I can make sure I get the latest one?
I had the dealer "preference" a Tacoma for me in mid February. Nothing special; DC w/TRD#2. They called yesterday and gave me a build date in early May (I don't remember the exact date he told me), delivery 5 - 10 days later. Ends up being about three months total. I'm sure others have had shorter delivery times but this is about the same amount of time it took the last time this dealer preferenced for me ('99 - Sienna). Oh well. Longer than I was hoping for but at least I'm getting exactly what I want and not paying for things that I don't want.
Glad your happy--that is the most important thing, but your dealer hosed you...if had the dealer preference you one in Feb, you probably should have the truck by now. I had my dealer preference me a DC, 4x4, TRD#2 with some not-so-normal options on March 14th...I was given a build date was 11 April and they have confirmed the truck is built...they tell me delivery in about 2 weeks.
I just took a trip running 85 to 90 pretty much the whole tank. I got dead even 20 miles to the gallon. I drive a 05 v6 dbl cab shortbed 2wd. Better than I thought it would be.
Everything! I bought mine from autoanything.com as well. Once it's get's delivered, go ahead an call the 1-800 number they give for customer service. I'd let them know that you've just bought the Tuff III for your '05 Tacoma and you've heard that there are changes to the build. They'll ask you to open up the tarp and look at the tag number. They can tell from the tag number if you have the latest and greatest.
I'm not sure what all they've changed. When I called I was telling the rep about the clamps being the samesize, but the directions tell otherwise. Then he asked what truck I have...that's how it came up.
sounds decent to me, I actually have the same model you have, as long as get 20mpg im happy, its when you get lower than that, I really dont drive long distances very much, about 3-4 times a year, if gas goes above $3/gal I will not drive as much, I am already cutting my driving to work and back, and combining stuff on days off. I actully hit a dead spot on the highway and cranked her up to 105mph.
Yeah, that would be cool if you just had to get the right switch from Toyota and just plug it in to make the feature work. The VSC (vehicle stability) and HAC (hill-start assist) could also work like this.
You might have to get a Toyota tech to get into the Taco's computer to turn the feature on? Just thinking.
I was wondering if anyone out there who has installed a Toytec lift on their 4wd tacoma could tell me the lift made their tacoma ride harsh. I have heard rumors but don't have any solid evidence. I realize that it will stiffen it up a little, but I am more worried about it jarring my teeth out when I hit a pot hole. I live in New Mexico, a state that is not known for their road maintenance.
Also, I would like to would like to state that my 97 Tacoma ext cab 4wd's gas mileage has pretty consistently been 17, with a low of 12 (pulling a trailer) and a high of 24 (and I have no idea why, it was in mountainous conditions and I was romping it). I have the 3.4 V6 with 31 inch off road tires. It has always had quite a bit of power, it has always smoked my buddy's silverado with a 350 and I have 125,00 miles on mine, his was rebuilt at 107,00 (it was burning oil badly) and he had it stroked to a 383 and he still can't beat the Taco. Want better mileage 4wd owners? Get the k&n cold air intake system, get the air temp monitor performance chip (you can get them on eBay for dirt cheap) add some headers and a nice high flow catalytic converter and cat back exhaust, and get rid of those damn auto lock hubs. They continuously turn the front axles and create wear and tear and really drag down your gas mileage. It has taken me a long time to get all the mods on but my Taco is a VERY strong runner. It is always fun to mess with 5.0 Mustang drivers. By the time I hit third gear (standard tranny) they are sweating bullets and although they will get the best of me in the long run, I have never had one best me before third gear. I am usually about half of a length ahead when their 302 finally overtakes the Taco's 3.4. It's fun and you should see the look on their faces when they finally do pass. It's a look of shear panic! I am sure the new 05 Taco with 245 HP stock would be a blast to drive. Ok, nuff rambling about my beloved Taco.
You gotta keep it under 65 mph to get 20 mpg or better. I have the Access Cab V6 with 6 speed manual. If I go faster than 65 it will drop fast. At 75 or 80 I get in the 17 mpg range. Never have been below 17 even at 80 or 85, but normally I don't drive that fast.
On gas mileage, I went thru the same thing, maybe a bit worse. After 6000 miles and an oil change, it improved to 18+ mpg on highway w/ below freezing weather. Since it is a little bit warmer now, I hope to get improvement. I only use 91 or 93 (the first tank from the dealer was probably 87). I'm considering 87 gas now w/ prices going to the moon.
As for the tank, I have a related post on message #2294. When the gauge is in the middle, I'm not counting on 10 but 7 gallons left. The indicator looks funny on the first 50-60 miles as it keeps staying high up on the level and then after that it starts to move fast to the middle. Believe me, as there's so much time to observe it while driving thru I-80 across Ohio. I'm going to have the dealer check on the fuel gauge on the next service.
I have a 1700 mile road trip coming up and will post an update upon my return.
Has anyone else changed their own oil on the v6.The owners manual states 4.8 quarts with filter change non prerunner,and 5.5 quarts with filter change on prerunner.I have prerunner and it appears to be full with only 5 quarts.Why would there be a difference anyway? Would the dipstick or manual be more accurate?
I finally found one that will work. It is a STANT Number 11506. It has the two opposing "D"s on it as opposed to screw threads. Fits fine and my check engine light does not come on. I got it at the local Pep Boys for $16.00 including tax.
Considering the outlandish prices for gas, which keep climbing daily, it is good insurance from theft in my opinion. Also will keep pranksters from filling your tank with sugar or some other substance.
Toyota does not recommend using aftermarket gas caps, but they aren't the ones paying $2.30 for regular gas either.
I've changed my own oil, and 5 quarts put it in the operating range. The extra .5 quart would have put it to completely full I guess. At any rate, the 5 quarts put it normal so I just left it at that, also didn't want to open a whole quart and just use half and have it sit until it was time for another change.
gymbo, go off the dipstick, it's what goes into the block and if something goes wrong you can prove the oil level based on the stick. As for the half a quart, if I leave it out of my GMC, the valves tick at start up....go figure. I always kept the half bottle for refilling my oil can. Yes, I have an oil can with the long spike dispenser and you push the bottom of the can to make the oil come out. You guys can stop laughing now....
yes. that's the one. two D's on either side (almost the same as the white plastic original but black in color). sorry i just guessed and gave you the wrong Stant part number 51106 instead of the correct 11506.
same here. can't risk w/ the tank getting contaminated.
I just had my dealer preference an AC 4x4 Off Road Pkg last week and was told I it would be on the lot mid July. I was expecting to wait, but not that long. I'm in Canada and wonder if that has anything to do with it?
A friend of mine recently picked his up and he told me it took about 2 1/2 months, so maybe it's normal?
I know..the Taco drives too smooth at 75 and even higher! My V-6 is averaging just under 21 mpg.
We had a blizzard last weekend here in Colorado so I was in 4x4 High and even some 4x4 low towing some lady in a stuck car so I filled it up at half a tank just to see how bad it gets in 4 wheel drive.....got my worst mpg, yet, but it was, still 19.7 but I'm not complaining at all about that.
She's got some serious torque.....pulled that lady's Mitsubishi like it was NOTHING! (I kept checking in the mirror to ensure she was back there...really couldn't feel it pulling all that much.)
achilleus, I have a Revtek lift kit on My DC TRD Sport. 3inch in front and 1 in rear. It made it just a little bit stiffer... not much though. I actually noticed more change when I went to the bigger tires and rims. LT tires don't ride as well as P tires do.
Difference btwn prerunner and non is probably due to shape of the oil pan.
I agree that regardless of what the "nominal oil capacity" is, you should fill based on the dipstick reading - for ANY vehicle. The nominal capacity is convenient for you to know how many quarts you need to have on hand, the dipstick is what you should base the fill on.
One note of caution (Not heeded by most Walmart and similar "auto centers") - don't forget the oil volume required to fill the filter. It is best to prefill the filter (yes, on the new V6 it goes in upsided down, but if you pour a few ounces in the filter and rotate it around, most of it will be absorbed into the filter media and the rest will not come out very quickly) because until the filter fills, you're not getting oil everywhere that you need it on that first start. But even so (particularly w/ the upside down filter) Always recheck the oil level after starting the engine to allow the filter to fill.
I suggest filling w/ the first 4 qts, then checking the dipstick to see how much more you need. Then, after you're happy with the fill (don't overfill), start the engine for a minute or so. Shut it down, let it sit for a minute, and recheck your oil level. Add if needed.
When I have the time to do it myself, I try to avoid the Walmart Auto Centers and the like because those here not only don't prefill the filter, but they don't check the oil after running the engine. You'll always end up a little low when you recheck. I've spoken to them about it and they say something like "That last 1/4 to 1/2 qt never fits. We just toss it." Of course, they just shrug when I suggest that before they do that, they should recheck the level after starting.
Thanks for the info on the way to get this taco of mine to improve. I just filled it with 93 octane and kept it at 64mph, and I already have seen an improvement. I am going to try the 60 mph and see if I have as much luck. It is going to piss the wife off, she will most likely think I am at a bar but 24.56 is worth trying for.
Everyone thanks for the information on the ways that you all are getting better mileage out of the taco's. I am 42 and this is my first NEW TRUCK, toyota has always been my favorite and I've had them all just about. I will keep you posted on my results.
A dealer mechanic told me that for my first oil change, it could be harmful changing the oil too soon in my 05. He further explained that the original oil is bonding to the internals and discarding it would interfere with the process. I've never heard of such a thing. He said that Toyota puts a special synthetic blend of some type into the engine at the factory and it is ideal for the breakin period. Has anyone else been told anything like this?
I've heard of long waits. Maybe being in Canada has something to do with it. I had a dealer in Missouri preference an AC 4x4 V6 6-speed w/ off-road and tow packages a couple of weeks ago. According to them, it has already been built and is waiting transport. Should be here around the beginning of May. Granted, this is a truck that was already on the dealers allotment list; I just changed the color. One dealer told me a couple of weeks ago that Toyota had run out of parts from one supplier and new trucks were going to take longer. I have no clue if there is any truth to this or not.
I don't know that the mechanic gave a precise explanation, but yes, Honda also says that they use a break-in oil and recommend that you not change earlier than specified. (That still means that a Taco should have an oil change AT LEAST at 5000 mi or 6 months, whichever comes first, even sooner -see manual- for severe conditions.)
I don't think it's fair to say that it will HARM the engine, but it's probably better to say it is better to not change too soon. (but better early than late)
A dealer telling you to come in way earlier than needed for an oil change means nothing. They are in the business of maintenance (and selling cars), so getting your "free" oil change out of the way 4,000 miles early, means that you'll be back to "pay" for your next oil change sooner.
I've got 5,096 miles on mine, and will be changing the oil for the first time tonight.
That is one thing about the "maintenance" program that Toyota dealers offer you when you buy the vehicle. They REQUIRE that you follow THEIR schedule for maintenance, otherwise, you can't use the coupons (i.e., if I wanted to use the 3,000 mile service at 5,000 miles, they won't let you). That is just pure crap. I'm all about maintaining my vehicle, but doing it to the point of removing perfectly good oil more frequently than necessary is just wasteful and expensive.
I ran 5,000 miles (sometimes 6,000) between oil changes on my Prelude, and it still drove as strong as it did the day I drove it off the lot with 70,000 miles on it. When I traded it in, it had 196,000 miles. The only difference was that I used full synthetic, and I'm not even sure that matters that much, based on several articles I've read.
And the dealer wants $40 to rotate and balance my tires? It's almost worth just going to Discount Tire, and buying a brand new set of tires (selling the old ones) and getting the free rotation and balance. I've also decided that the dealer's maintenance schedule includes unnecessary actions, such as radiator flushes and transmission oil replacements. I think that the manufacturer of a vehicle knows better when it comes to when these things should be done, not a dealership, which makes it's money by selling all these services...
They don't have a soap-box icon here to post, but I guess I'll get off of mine for now.
just had mine changed last week, nothing to complain to the dealer with, but they did compliment the stereo sys i had put in, as far as gas mileage getting 18.75-19 city, was watching auto show on espn other day and spokeman for toyota said they will make hybrid for every model by 2008, I like the sound of a hybrid taco, putting out over 200 horses and getting 40mpg, sounds good, wounder if that will happen.
I am in a dillemma with the first oil change, because the 6 month mark is at the end of this month and I have maybe 1400 miles on it. The dealer is recommending that I run it to the 5000 mile mark before changing the oil the first time. That might take a while, because of the limited miles I put on it and in very mild conditions. I don't want to screw up the service intervals.
Folks may chime in with many opinions on the best quality leather conditioner, but here's my two cents: I've tried lots of products, but the best one I've found is the Leather Conditioner and/or "Leather Rejuvenator" products made by Griot's. It ain't cheap, but lasts a lonnnnnnngggg time and makes the interior smell like new leather for 2-3 weeks after each treatment. This stuff is great. I think the web site is griotsgarage.com.
That is pretty low mileage. How far do you drive to work each day? If you aren't driving the car for at least 10 miles or more, you might want to consider taking the long way.
I don't know much, nor have I read much, about what affects oil and age. But, as far as cost concerns go, changing the oil every 6 months would equal out to about the same a changing the oil ever 5,000 miles, if you averaged about 20,000 miles a year (about what I'm doing, if things don't change).
I'm just guessing, but I bet you could go for a year without changing your oil, and be okay, but who knows. I only change the oil in my lawn mower once a year.
Griots Garage is a beautiful catalog- try their engine cleaner and wheel cleaner. Those 2 products alone wil make you smile, especially if the two applicable surfaces are really nasty. You're right on the expensive, but you get what you pay for!!
Someone else mentioned this before but since it is such good information I'll re-iterate it:
Current oils contain conditioners that are designed to hold the dirt the oil filter cannot remove in suspension. This stops dirt deposits from building up in the engine. So even if you are using synthetic oil that has longer lasting slippery "atoms" you still need to change the oil to remove the dirt particulate.
Engines produce this dirt as a by-product of ignition no matter how new or old the engine is.
The manufacturer calculates how long it generally takes the engine to saturate the oil with dirt particulates adds a large safety margin and puts that mileage in the user manual.
"leob1" - Hi. My Taco dealer never said anything like that, but when we leased my wife a new Honda Odyssey in 2003, they told me something almost exactly like that...must be true. :P
Concerning the buzzing noise some of us 2005 Tacoma owners have heard during windy situations... It is coming from the right front passenger area... some suspected windshield, any news with dealer visit?
I would not go past 6months, regardless of mileage. If you have that little mileage, your trips are few and/or short. That doesn't provide time at temp to remove all the moisture from the oil (condensation both from the air, and blow-by of water vapor from combustion).
As noted by others, two things damage your oil- contamination, and shear. Shear actually cuts the larger molecules making them thinner, less able to keep the metal surfaces separated under pressure. Contamination produces acids and sludge. Additives are intended to keep moisture and very fine particles in suspension, to minimize the result of contamination. However, eventually, those additives will be exhausted.
Just as important- if you don't change your oil every 6 months/5k miles, whichever comes first, the mfr has justification to blame any engine damage (particularly from sludge) on the lack of maintenance. (Ask some Sienna owners about whether you want sludge to be blamed on your lack of maintenance.)
It may be worthwhile for you to occassionally take a nice long drive. Short trips are tough on motor vehicles, from engine thru exhaust. You don't have to drive 100 miles, go out to dinner in a town over 25 miles away one day on the weekend. Treat yourself... :shades:
Comments
pb2themax is probably right on in that it may be just as easy or an even better option to just hardwire a new inverter (a litte more powerful than 400watts is ideal). with a switch of course. This is probably the way I will eventually go (summer project) particulary after I get my dual battery setup running.
If you guys look around out there you'll find alot of pictures of 265/75's on 2005 tacomas. No rub.
Issues:
1)I only received one size of clamps to connect the tonno to the bed. The directions state that there should be 2 Short and 4 Medium Clamps.
2)Two of the brackets that connect the clamps to the Deck Rail system have stripped screw holes.
The installation is easy and the tonno stays on tight(even with the wrong size clamps and 2 bad brackets). It fits well and is somewhat low profile, except for the tailgate area. There is about an inch of foam so that you can open and close the gate. But my wife gave it an ok, so I'm good. I'm going to call Extang to get the correct clamps and brackets today. They have a 1-800 number for missing parts. Don't worry about the tongue and groove system, because it's pretty tight. The tarp itself seems pretty durable.
Bottom Line - It looks pretty good, costs nothing ($215) and seems to do it's job.
Once I get the the right parts, I'll take some pics and post for those of you who are interested.
recently posted on the board for help in finding an opening in the firewall in which to pull control wiring thru for aftermarket lights on my Taco. (thanks Volley) I installed new rocker switches in two of the lower unused switch openings on the dash and in doing so, found behind and stuck into the left most blank filler plate, a wiring plug that obviously is unused but is tied into the under dash harness.
I have an 05 taco, v6 d-cab, long bed with the TRD sport package. One of the options that doesn't come with that package is the "downhill assist control system". After reading the owner's manual, I saw that the control for the that option is located at that switch location which is the first opening to the right of the mirror control panel. That's where I found the harness connection. Reviewing the fuses under the dash and underhood gave me no clue as to whether or not the system exists on my truck since the manual is all encompassing for all models and options.
So my question to all of you folks who know more about the 05 taco than me since this is my first one, is, if the wiring is in place to control what I assume is the downhill assist system, do the mechanicals/electronics for that system actually exist on the truck and can the system be made operational by obtaining the proper switch from Toyota and plugging into the harness? If I asked the dealer(Stealer)about this, what are my chances I would get a straight answer?
Thanks for your help,
Banjoman
They called yesterday and gave me a build date in early May (I don't remember the exact date he told me), delivery 5 - 10 days later.
Ends up being about three months total.
I'm sure others have had shorter delivery times but this is about the same amount of time it took the last time this dealer preferenced for me ('99 - Sienna).
Oh well. Longer than I was hoping for but at least I'm getting exactly what I want and not paying for things that I don't want.
I'm not sure what all they've changed. When I called I was telling the rep about the clamps being the samesize, but the directions tell otherwise. Then he asked what truck I have...that's how it came up.
You might have to get a Toyota tech to get into the Taco's computer to turn the feature on? Just thinking.
Also, I would like to would like to state that my 97 Tacoma ext cab 4wd's gas mileage has pretty consistently been 17, with a low of 12 (pulling a trailer) and a high of 24 (and I have no idea why, it was in mountainous conditions and I was romping it). I have the 3.4 V6 with 31 inch off road tires. It has always had quite a bit of power, it has always smoked my buddy's silverado with a 350 and I have 125,00 miles on mine, his was rebuilt at 107,00 (it was burning oil badly) and he had it stroked to a 383 and he still can't beat the Taco. Want better mileage 4wd owners? Get the k&n cold air intake system, get the air temp monitor performance chip (you can get them on eBay for dirt cheap) add some headers and a nice high flow catalytic converter and cat back exhaust, and get rid of those damn auto lock hubs. They continuously turn the front axles and create wear and tear and really drag down your gas mileage. It has taken me a long time to get all the mods on but my Taco is a VERY strong runner. It is always fun to mess with 5.0 Mustang drivers. By the time I hit third gear (standard tranny) they are sweating bullets and although they will get the best of me in the long run, I have never had one best me before third gear. I am usually about half of a length ahead when their 302 finally overtakes the Taco's 3.4. It's fun and you should see the look on their faces when they finally do pass. It's a look of shear panic! I am sure the new 05 Taco with 245 HP stock would be a blast to drive. Ok, nuff rambling about my beloved Taco.
You gotta keep it under 65 mph to get 20 mpg or better. I have the Access Cab V6 with 6 speed manual. If I go faster than 65 it will drop fast. At 75 or 80 I get in the 17 mpg range. Never have been below 17 even at 80 or 85, but normally I don't drive that fast.
As for the tank, I have a related post on message #2294. When the gauge is in the middle, I'm not counting on 10 but 7 gallons left. The indicator looks funny on the first 50-60 miles as it keeps staying high up on the level and then after that it starts to move fast to the middle. Believe me, as there's so much time to observe it while driving thru I-80 across Ohio. I'm going to have the dealer check on the fuel gauge on the next service.
I have a 1700 mile road trip coming up and will post an update upon my return.
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4.8 quarts with filter change non prerunner,and 5.5 quarts with filter change on prerunner.I have prerunner and it appears to be full with only 5 quarts.Why would there be a difference anyway? Would the dipstick or manual be more accurate?
yes, noticed that 55-65 is the ideal speed range to get the best gas mileage. but man, i can't drive 55!
g+
Considering the outlandish prices for gas, which keep climbing daily, it is good insurance from theft in my opinion. Also will keep pranksters from filling your tank with sugar or some other substance.
Toyota does not recommend using aftermarket gas caps, but they aren't the ones paying $2.30 for regular gas either.
As for the half a quart, if I leave it out of my GMC, the valves tick at start up....go figure. I always kept the half bottle for refilling my oil can. Yes, I have an oil can with the long spike dispenser and you push the bottom of the can to make the oil come out. You guys can stop laughing now....
same here. can't risk w/ the tank getting contaminated.
g+
A friend of mine recently picked his up and he told me it took about 2 1/2 months, so maybe it's normal?
We had a blizzard last weekend here in Colorado so I was in 4x4 High and even some 4x4 low towing some lady in a stuck car so I filled it up at half a tank just to see how bad it gets in 4 wheel drive.....got my worst mpg, yet, but it was, still 19.7 but I'm not complaining at all about that.
She's got some serious torque.....pulled that lady's Mitsubishi like it was NOTHING! (I kept checking in the mirror to ensure she was back there...really couldn't feel it pulling all that much.)
Git R Done!
Boo
I agree that regardless of what the "nominal oil capacity" is, you should fill based on the dipstick reading - for ANY vehicle. The nominal capacity is convenient for you to know how many quarts you need to have on hand, the dipstick is what you should base the fill on.
One note of caution (Not heeded by most Walmart and similar "auto centers") - don't forget the oil volume required to fill the filter. It is best to prefill the filter (yes, on the new V6 it goes in upsided down, but if you pour a few ounces in the filter and rotate it around, most of it will be absorbed into the filter media and the rest will not come out very quickly) because until the filter fills, you're not getting oil everywhere that you need it on that first start. But even so (particularly w/ the upside down filter) Always recheck the oil level after starting the engine to allow the filter to fill.
I suggest filling w/ the first 4 qts, then checking the dipstick to see how much more you need. Then, after you're happy with the fill (don't overfill), start the engine for a minute or so. Shut it down, let it sit for a minute, and recheck your oil level. Add if needed.
When I have the time to do it myself, I try to avoid the Walmart Auto Centers and the like because those here not only don't prefill the filter, but they don't check the oil after running the engine. You'll always end up a little low when you recheck. I've spoken to them about it and they say something like "That last 1/4 to 1/2 qt never fits. We just toss it." Of course, they just shrug when I suggest that before they do that, they should recheck the level after starting.
I don't think it's fair to say that it will HARM the engine, but it's probably better to say it is better to not change too soon. (but better early than late)
I've got 5,096 miles on mine, and will be changing the oil for the first time tonight.
That is one thing about the "maintenance" program that Toyota dealers offer you when you buy the vehicle. They REQUIRE that you follow THEIR schedule for maintenance, otherwise, you can't use the coupons (i.e., if I wanted to use the 3,000 mile service at 5,000 miles, they won't let you). That is just pure crap. I'm all about maintaining my vehicle, but doing it to the point of removing perfectly good oil more frequently than necessary is just wasteful and expensive.
I ran 5,000 miles (sometimes 6,000) between oil changes on my Prelude, and it still drove as strong as it did the day I drove it off the lot with 70,000 miles on it. When I traded it in, it had 196,000 miles. The only difference was that I used full synthetic, and I'm not even sure that matters that much, based on several articles I've read.
And the dealer wants $40 to rotate and balance my tires? It's almost worth just going to Discount Tire, and buying a brand new set of tires (selling the old ones) and getting the free rotation and balance. I've also decided that the dealer's maintenance schedule includes unnecessary actions, such as radiator flushes and transmission oil replacements. I think that the manufacturer of a vehicle knows better when it comes to when these things should be done, not a dealership, which makes it's money by selling all these services...
They don't have a soap-box icon here to post, but I guess I'll get off of mine for now.
I don't know much, nor have I read much, about what affects oil and age. But, as far as cost concerns go, changing the oil every 6 months would equal out to about the same a changing the oil ever 5,000 miles, if you averaged about 20,000 miles a year (about what I'm doing, if things don't change).
I'm just guessing, but I bet you could go for a year without changing your oil, and be okay, but who knows. I only change the oil in my lawn mower once a year.
Current oils contain conditioners that are designed to hold the dirt the oil filter cannot remove in suspension. This stops dirt deposits from building up in the engine. So even if you are using synthetic oil that has longer lasting slippery "atoms" you still need to change the oil to remove the dirt particulate.
Engines produce this dirt as a by-product of ignition no matter how new or old the engine is.
The manufacturer calculates how long it generally takes the engine to saturate the oil with dirt particulates adds a large safety margin and puts that mileage in the user manual.
If you have that little mileage, your trips are few and/or short.
That doesn't provide time at temp to remove all the moisture from the oil (condensation both from the air, and blow-by of water vapor from combustion).
As noted by others, two things damage your oil- contamination, and shear.
Shear actually cuts the larger molecules making them thinner, less able to keep the metal surfaces separated under pressure. Contamination produces acids and sludge. Additives are intended to keep moisture and very fine particles in suspension, to minimize the result of contamination. However, eventually, those additives will be exhausted.
Just as important- if you don't change your oil every 6 months/5k miles, whichever comes first, the mfr has justification to blame any engine damage (particularly from sludge) on the lack of maintenance. (Ask some Sienna owners about whether you want sludge to be blamed on your lack of maintenance.)
It may be worthwhile for you to occassionally take a nice long drive. Short trips are tough on motor vehicles, from engine thru exhaust. You don't have to drive 100 miles, go out to dinner in a town over 25 miles away one day on the weekend. Treat yourself... :shades: