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I think the Prius c has more room, seriously.
If she's seriously interested in the JSW, just drive one, and then tell the dealer you're ready to buy except you want one that's a different color and/or trim level. Unlike BMWs, there aren't many options beyond the trim level, so they can probably locate one from another dealer. That's what they did with my GLI.
The new car has a black interior, which was the biggest compromise along with a few options I didn't really want. They claimed to have looked through national inventory, and no car exists exactly how I wanted it. Oh well. I wanted "almond" or the light grey ("ash", I think). The pano helps a lot - the dark grey on dark grey E55 was kind of gloomy.
I saw a "quartz blue" E350 gas this morning. If I could find a loaded quartz blue on almond Bluetec car after the lease is up, I might buy it - it should be in my price range by then. I like that color, kills me that they discontinued it.
This thing wouldn't have been in my price range without the sweetheart lease. Ideally, I would like a C250 diesel - but they just aren't here yet. The E is a bit of a barge and a little bigger than I really want, but I am not complaining.
Must be bigger, right? 2 generations of upsizing.
Absolutely; those are all good points. I've given this some thought. Key metrics:
Fuel cost per month - at the moment, PUG is $3.60/gal and ULSD is about $4/gal. Assuming 15K per year (1250 per month) and 20 MPG for the Mazda and 35 MPG for the VW, we'd spend $225/mo on gas for the Mazda and $143/mo for diesel.
Payment - yes, we're upside down on the Mazda. However, the dealer where I get the Mazda serviced at also carries VW, so I might be able to get them to overallocate on the trade value if it helps them move a new unit. Wife will be more inclined to get a new car if I can reduce the monthly nut, even by a little bit. Would have to talk to the dealer about that.
Also, I've been working on my debt and, as a result, my credit score is now between 750-780, so I might also get a cheaper rate on the loan.
Insurance - need to call my agent to see what the cost of coverage would be for the VW. I figure about the same, but perhaps going from an SUV to a car might help a bit.
I mentioned leasing, but the unknown is the number of miles per year she'd drive for the job. Plus, we'd also use the car for any road trips, so leasing is probably a non-starter.
23 Civic Type-R / 22 MDX Type-S / 21 Tesla Y LR / 03 Montero Ltd
The Elantra GT I test drove might fit the bill, I think a couple of colors have a beige leather/two-tone. Pano roof is nice.
Toss in all the fun hatches - VW GTI/TDI, Mazda3, Focus, too.
She didn't like the looks of the Impreza, though she does like the Crosstek (25/33). She's never test driven a CVT, so I'd be curious how she felt about it.
Elantra GT - for some reason, Hyundai and Kia are out. Don't ask me why.
Fun hatches - yep, I've shown her the Golf TDI and she's already driven the Mazda 3i GT hatch (with SkyActiv).
I'm having a hard time getting her to move to a car .. she's been driving small SUVs for the last 8 or 9 years, and she likes the visibility of them. That's why she's pushing for a smaller SUV (Juke, Countryman).
I priced out a FWD Countryman and managed to add $5K to the $26K base price.
GTI mit der DSG?
My wife and I liked the Countryman, but we were more than a little put off by our MINI dealer. We also noticed that there were more than a few used Countrymen for sale with very low mileages. In fact, one Countryman we were looking at sold- and then was returned a day later. Hmmm... Not long after we bought the CPO 3er Automobile, Car and Driver, and Road&Track all published the results of their long term tests of the Countryman. The evaluations were ambivalent at best:
Automobile: Few were sad to see the Mini go.
Car and Driver: We just wish the Countryman could keep its footing better in rapid transitions—and had fewer rattles and squeaks. Those who want a Mini for family use will perhaps forgive the relative slow-wittedness, but the rattles and creaks don’t seem appropriate for a so-called premium vehicle. Maybe Mini’s next revolution should be in the area of interior fitments.
Road&Track: Mini mediocrity.
All of which is a roundabout way of saying that my wife and I do not regret buying a 2009 CPO 328i for less than the price of a new Countryman with relatively few options...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
DON'T PANIC!- With talk of $5.00/gallon gasoline making headlines I thought I should revisit and update an issue I discussed about one year ago. I'm already starting to hear "screamer" ads on television and radio telling people to "TRADE IN YOUR OLD GAS GUZZLER FOR A NEW XYZ MOTORS SEDAN- WITH 40 MPG ECONOMY!!!" And I'm sure you've heard people say, "Gas prices are eating me alive, I just have to buy a new car."
The fact of the matter is, high fuel prices are no excuse for making a poor automotive purchasing decision. The last time gas prices spiked I remember people were buying those terribly mediocre Smart cars for list price- or even higher. These "shrewd" buyers were then stuck on a waiting list- and by the time their Smart car arrived gas prices had settled down and they were stuck with a tiny car that really wasn't suited for anything more than urban commuting. That is why I always say that you have to do the math.
Here's an example: I recently found a very nice 2010 Mini Cooper for sale. It had less than 10,000 miles on the odometer and had every option I wanted. The Mini gets 39 mpg while my 2007 Mazda averaged about 23 mpg. After doing a little research I determined that I could probably get the Mini by trading in my Mazda and paying $10,000. Great deal, right? An almost-new car that gets 15 more mpg for "only" $10,000. As it turns out, running the numbers showed that it wasn't a great deal. Let's assume gas is $5.00 per gallon and that I drive 20,000 miles per year. The Mazda's annual fuel cost will be $4,348 while the Mini would use $2,564 worth of gas- an annual savings of $1,784. Fantastic! The only problem is the fact that I have to pay $10,000 in order to "save" that money. Dividing the purchase cost by the annual fuel savings shows that I would have to drive the Mini for 5.6 years before I actually started saving money. And if I drove 15,000 miles per year I would have to drive the Mini for almost 7.5 years just to break even! Also note that I'm not taking into account the cost of interest on a car loan, increased insurance costs, or higher property taxes due to the Mini being a newer vehicle. As it turns out, I started utilizing some smart driving habits and discovered that I was able to increase the Mazda's average fuel economy to 27 mpg- which at $5.00 per gallon saves me $644 outright. Now, I'm certainly not saying that you shouldn't consider a vehicle's fuel efficiency when buying a new or used car, but I AM saying that trading a car solely to save money on fuel costs almost never makes financial sense.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
They should replace the Matrix with that here IMHO.
Fitzgerald Subaru in Gaithersburg (MD) has the 2014 Forester in their showroom right now. No test drives yet, and it's not for sale.
I keep mentioning Subarus but that's because I like cars and she's leaning toward a crossovers, well Subies are the most car-like ones out there...
I had that same discussion with someone not that long ago. I had to show them the numbers, in order to make them believe buying a more FE car didn't make any sense.
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
Oh yes, I remember this article well. The wife has said that the amount of money we are underwater with the Mazda would buy a lot of gas.
However ---- we will just have to wait and see where this all leads.
FACT: Her new job is paying 20% less than the one she is leaving.
FACT: The Mazda takes PUG and I've insisted that we stick with Shell V-Power.
Theoretical budgets don't survive well when you're shelling out $50-65 in real money for each tank.
The tipping point may come if we have to fill the tank more than once every 7 days. Given that the commute itself will be 220 miles per week, that doesn't leave a lot of range for the other incidental driving she will have to do.
If - and it's a big if - I can get her into a more fuel efficient ride for less than we're paying now for the Mazda - payment, insurance, fuel - then we might do the deal.
May not happen now. May happen 6 months from now - when she thinks its the better course of action.
And, she may decide that a "regular" car (Mazda 3i GT, for example) might fit the bill.
Fitzgerald Subaru in Gaithersburg (MD) has the 2014 Forester in their showroom right now. No test drives yet, and it's not for sale.
I keep mentioning Subarus but that's because I like cars and she's leaning toward a crossovers, well Subies are the most car-like ones out there...
The last time she test drove a Subaru was 2005, I think. Test drove both the NA Outback and the Outback XT - she loved the power of the XT but, at the time, wasn't keen on the fact it took PUG.
Now look where we are ....
While she is not a lead foot, she likes having a large stable of ponies available, which doesn't help fuel economy. I was surprised that she felt the 155HP 2.0L SkyActiv engine was peppy enough for her.
Her last 3 daily drivers have been an '05 VUE (250 HP Honda 3.5L V6), '08 VUE (257 HP 3.6L V6) and the current '10 CX-7 (244 HP 2.3L turbo 4).
Does the new Forester still have the 2.5L engine? Will it have a CVT? Might be an OK compromise.
Well, the only issue I had with the A5 was it wasn't a BMW, so I took care of that by trading it on the 335 .
All in all, my 530i as my second car is in most ways nicer than any of these cars I'm looking at - it's just that once I bought the 335, I have 2 sporty BMW sedans, each with a different character but much more alike than they are dissimilar. With the luxury of splitting time between two cars, I'd rather have more variety.
So, took some time at lunch today for some contrasting test drives.....
2024 Audi Q8 e-tron - 2024 Corvette - 2024 BMW X5 - 2023 Tesla Model Y
Mazda CX-5 - I intentionally drove one with the 2.0l as opposed to the newly available 2.5l to see if I'd be okay with it (and save some money). Certainly could use some more power, but I much preferred it to the CR-V in any case. Felt much more like a larger hatchback versus a small SUV.
Mazda3 - drove the MT a few months ago, but wanted to see how I'd like it with an auto. Still a great hatch, but I think my strong preference for it had a lot to do with the slick-shifting manual. Apples to apples, I didn't think it drove all that much better than the Elantra GT, so I think I'd take the fresher look of the Hyundai if I went for a traditional hatchback. Now, I wasn't pushing it very hard, so maybe the Mazda's chassis is better at their limits, but for "normal" everyday driving, the Hyundai seemed just as tossable.
XV Crosstrek - knowing full well it's just a raised Impreza, I nevertheless wanted to see how I'd like it. It's certainly quirky (in a Subaru way), but I like the look of it - it fits right in with all these mini-SUVs around. I won't be off-roading or anything like that, but the step-in height, as well as the load height at the hatch are welcome. For the most part, it's a nice drive, performing like the small hatch that it is, but there are definitely situations where the drivetrain strains to get up to speed. I didn't bother with the shift paddles - so that probably would have helped.
Impreza - for direct comparison I also drove the "regular" Impreza. Obviously drives pretty much the same, but like I said, for about a $1k premium, I think I'd go with the Crosstrek.
So, ruled out the CR-V for sure. Surprisingly, I may have ruled out the Mazda3 in favor of the Hyundai if I go that route. But the CX-5 is definitely my favorite, with the XV Crosstrek not too far behind.
2024 Audi Q8 e-tron - 2024 Corvette - 2024 BMW X5 - 2023 Tesla Model Y
The service included changing the spark plugs (12 cylinder), radiator flush, differential oil change, engine oil change, all filters including air filters, etc. Total cost $2,200. It was recommended that I change the tires too as the fronts were down to the wear bars. Bentley service flubbed up and didn't rotate them at 5,000 miles. The Pirelli racing tires only have a 15,000 mile life max. The rears were acceptable but the front were too worn to be put on the rear.
So, tire shopping I went! The replacement Pirelli tires were $494 each at the dealer, $380 at America's Tire (zero mile warranty)... and Michelin's were $282 each with a 45,000 mile warranty so that's what I had put on. WOW, the difference is amazing, so smooth. The worn Pirelli's were causing the car to follow the grooves in the road and I didn't realize how bad until driving with the new Michelins.
She's like new again!
Mark156
PS. Fintail.... CONGRATS on the new Mercedes!
I like Michelin tires but I'm surprised they were less expensive! Glad you're still enjoying the Bentley.
Agreed; my track rats only get the transmission and differential oil changed every 30,000 miles- and my street cars wait 60,000 miles between changes...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Four year maintenance:
-Engine oil and filter change
-Radiator fluid check/change
-Wiper blades
-Remote key battery change
-Pollen filters (2)
-Air filters
-Spark plugs
-Brake fluid change
-check brake pads (OK)
Labor $1,140
Parts $1,050
Sub total $2,190
Taxes $83.81
Total $2,273
My mistake, no differential fluid change. He must have said brake fluid change and I misunderstood. My bad. :sick:
Mark156
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
With our restricitve speeding laws I'm not keen to get caught although I like the power when I need it. Today when driving with my wife I mentioned how much I enjoy the 328 every time I get behind the wheel. Just the power and handling to pass others and avoid hazards without losing control and that solid feel of the car.
Our new speeding laws in British Columbia basically let the cops impound your car for a week (you pay impound and storage fees + ticket) if you get caught speeding 40km/h (25mph) over limit. With our artifically low speed limits and a ton of speed traps it's easy to get busted just being in a rush.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
I remember when working at Ferrari last year and seeing people's bills for a timing belt change on pre F430 models (360 Modena, 355, 348). It was a week long $20k job because the engines had to be dropped and while the engine was out a bunch of other preventitive maintenance was done as well.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
The FB25 is nice - timing chain, separate coolant flow to the heads, and easy access oil filter at the top of the engine. Could use DI to make a bit more power, though.
32mpg highway for the AWD model will be best in class.
The new 2.5l model is nearly as efficient as the 2.0l, which I found made lots of noise when you floored it but few results. Go for the big engine - why else go Zoom Zoom at all?
Pile 4 people and luggage and then drive up a steep incline and it's going to struggle getting up.
The new 2.5l model is nearly as efficient as the 2.0l, which I found made lots of noise when you floored it but few results. Go for the big engine - why else go Zoom Zoom at all?
Can the 2.5 be had with 3 pedals?
The new car has runflats, which many loathe (no spare, thanks to "bluetec" occupying the tire well), but the sidewall height makes a world of difference compared to the old low profiles. I bet they'll last more than ~22K miles, too.
We'll be getting the E250 next year, the C250 seems like a no-brainer - I hope. Smaller and lighter, so quicker - cheaper too.
Interesting - Sienna owners hate them.
How is ride quality? I'm guessing M-B would engineer the suspension to accommodate that.
Also, what about replacement cost? Won't be cheap, then again neither were the AMG tires I bet.
No - only the FWD Sport with the 2.0 SkyActiv engine can be had with a stick.
However, the Mazda automatic is actually a nice transmission ... does drop down a gear without prompting under specific circumstances.
A co-worker just spent $1030 on tires for an A3. Ouch.
Mine were $360 installed but I got a close-out deal. :shades:
Ditto for a large segment of BMW owners. That said, my wife's 3er came with Conti run-flat summer tires. When I bought winter tires and wheels I chose the BMW Approved Blizzak RFTs. The ride may be a bit more brittle than with "go-flats", but not to an objectionable degree. The jury is still out with respect to wear of either set.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
The CX-7 has 19"s .. fortunately, with 28K on them they still seem to have a decent amount of tread life left.
I'm figuring about $1K for a replacement set when the time comes.
EDIT - Discount Tire offers 9 different choices (235-55/19). Starting at $200 per tire and going up to $304/tire.
The wide rears on the E55 were ~$350 apiece, before installation.
if they will need to be replaced before
lease end.....
They ride OK, given 40 & 35 series Z-rated,
as well as runflats.
- Ray
$1,400+ at tirerack.com