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Comments
For my drifting, the dealer did find alignment problems. My repair order says ... SUSP UPR BL/JT CMBR ... and then ... CHECK CASTER/CAMBER AND TOE, ADJUST CAMBER AND CASTERS, SET TOE TO SPECS.
The drifting seems to have gone away and the handling is much better.
Bess -- I will try my tire pressure (when empty) keeping 55 up front and lowering from 80 to 55 in rear.
Leaving for northern CA tomorrow for 5 days. Will report back mileage and handling.
Thanks again!
I'm tacking on the miles now that it is summer camping season. I'm over 34,000, so I've got less than a month before the warranty is over. I've been out camping every weekend but one in May and June. The camper has been in the bed all that time, so the mpg on my daily commute to work has been nothing to brag about. I lose 2-2.5 mpg with the camper in the bed. I sit about 11.5 feet high and weigh around 11,700 with the camper.
FYI, it's summer solstice and we've got about 19.5 hours of daylight today up here in Anchorage. Sunrise is about 4:15 and sunset is around 11:45. Tomorrow we start the descent towards less than five hour at winter solstice in December. Our friend northpole lives about 350 miles north of me, so he's got even more daylight than I do.....and even more darkness in the winter.
Heavier duty trucks are more difficult to find in 4X4.
Good luck.
I would also agree that holding out for 4x4 is worth it. With four tires in back, the rear tires just spin on wet grass when empty. (Of course if you keep it loaded like mine it's not as much of a problem).
And with the body options available today (there weren't as many two years ago), the 550 doesn't have to look like a work truck.
A 3-6 month wait is about average for those of us who special ordered lately. Some of us early buyers had to wait a bit more. I wouldn't let that interfere with the long term pleasure you will get from having the RIGHT truck.
(I have a 350DRW PSD CC and would have gotten a 450 if I was starting over again)
Do any of the more recent "old hands" still stop by? lewac, crazyelvis, mainecowgirl... where are you? Inquiring minds want to know.
First off, hello everybody! I have been lost to summer in Maine, various other adventures and of course my truck, which I love, love, love. (F250, SC, SB, V-10, 4X4, 4.3LS for those who don't remember all my long ago posts.) After much humming and hawing I went with the ArmaCoating bed liner which I think is great. Rhino was my only other choice, and I wasn't completely happy with the inexperience of the guy doing the application.
I got the Draw-Tite heavy Class IV hitch that someone here recommended to me awhile back and I am very happy with that. Had to play with the drop height a bit to get the trailer to sit right, but that's all taken care of now in time for show season.
Had a bit of a problem getting rear seat covers. Ended up "special" ordering a set from Saddleman only to find that they are exactly the same as the F150 standard covers that I could have bought at any auto parts store (which I found are too small and had to be rigged to fit my truck back seat, but was stuck with the special order so I made do.)
I am getting 13-14 mpg on country roads. My only problem I just found recently (as it has just gotten warm enough in Maine not to have the heat slightly on) is that my air conditioner is on all the time. I know it is on when the defrost mode is engaged, but when my vent is set at upper body and feet position I am getting VERY cold air and the other day I noticed water dripping under the engine from the condensation. I am getting my first oil change done...yeah, yeah I know I have had the truck for two months and I have less than 2000 miles on it. I am babying it!...in the next week so I'll have it checked out.
Other than that it is a perfect vehicle. No thumps or rattles or clunks of any kind. Of course, being a girl if I heard one I'd just turn the radio up louder and start singing! (Those of you who know me are shaking your heads at this comment I hope.)
This truck hauls my horses like the champion that it is. I am just so happy with it. I was at a big horse show this past weekend and was cruising the stabling area looking at horses and, of course, trucks. Out of the 12 trucks there used for hauling 11 were Fords. Guess that tells us all something, doesn't it?
Brutus, summer solstice sounds like my kind of heaven, but less than five hours of daylight in the winter sounds like hell. I miss the old gang too, Dave. Lewac, where are you??
I too have noticed very few post over the last few weeks. Maybe everyone is camping/vacation.
Regards
Mainecowgirl .... I think the compressor is supposed to come on in all climate control positions except one .... the manual explains why.
Haven't had a single problem with the truck in 8k miles. I had some suspension rubber bushing squeeks early on but they went away without my or Fords intervention. The only thing I noticed is that the air conditioning is not strong enough for hotter climates .... don't get me wrong ... it will cool down the crew cab eventually ... it just takes quite a while. As long as I am nit-picking apart a great truck .... the 40-20-40 front seats could use more side to side support for shoulders and rump to keep one from sliding toward the door ... I usually have the arm rest down so can't slide that direction. Sure wouldn't want Ford to sit idle and think they don't have anything to work on .... anyway ... just picking fly droppings out of the pepper .... for something to report. Happy motoring ...
If you're unfamiliar with this problem check out
http://forums.ford-diesel.com:8080/ubb/Forum20/HTML/000089.html
I'm really close to becoming a GMC owner again, real soon!
Wildside1- From what I gathered from my quick look at the manual the air conditioner comes on in (obviously) A/C, MaxA/C, straight defrost and the combo defrost position, but I'll look again. I HAVE been known to be wrong upon occasion.
Has anyone used the flat four connector for trailer lights that came with the new tow package. It will not except the connector from my boat trailer. The pins are correct but the rubber boot is the same as on the trailer and won't allow it to connect. Both are "outies"(new term). I went Walmart tonight and bought the 7 to 4 adapter for $10.
2000 F-250 White PSD 4x4 SC
Just turned over 7500 miles on my 2K, CC, 250, PSD, 4X4, AT, 3.73LS baby, and I continue to be impressed with this truck.
We took the wife's horse over to eastern washington last weekend, and averaged 17.5 MPG going up over Steven's Pass (4000 feet) and back. Took the truck out of OD on the steepest slopes, and it pulled the trailer at 60MPG without a hint of struggle. Not bad!
Wingmaster - the horse trailer we pulled had the 4-pin connector (trailer does not have any brakes), and it mated with the factory connector just fine. I have hooked my camper to the 7-pin connector (camper has brakes and I installed a Reese brake controller), and it works great as well.
Glad you are all enjoying your trucks and your summers. We are having a stretch of great weather that we live for here in Seattle, so I am trying to stay outside and off the computer!
I have the V-10, and haven't had the 'exhaust flutter'. I live and bought mine in the Seattle, WA area, and it is a 99, so I wonder if there may be something to the theory of it being CA vehicles. I have had most every other problem, so I am suprised I don't have that too.
I used the 4 pin flat connector for some magnetic tow lights, and I had to trim the light connector plug to get it to fit into the trucks connector. One more standardized plug in a non-standard world.
Have a great time at UNH and a fun 4th.
Wingmaster- My four pin connector fits the stock connector on my boat and other trailers I have pulled just fine. Fit is tight but I prefer that to one that may fall apart.
Summitx- 00 V-10 CC 4X4 3.73 5,000 miles. No problem with flutter or any other engine noise. Hope your problem is resolved soon. I drove a Z71 this past week and was very thankful that I switched to Ford.
I have experienced very few problems and haven't reported them to the dealer yet. Will probably have them looked at during the next oil change.
Steering Wheel cover coming loose towards the center of steering wheel (Lariat)
That danged cup holder sticks (Hope they replace with the new style)
The old cab bump noise when I go over a large dip or bump. This really only happens when I am also turning and putting a twist on the frame.
I haven't posted in a while but I do keep a watch on what is posted by others. Good to see some of you coming back. The information here is invaluable.
There are three climate control positions where the compressor will not turn on:
1. Panel
2. Floor
3. Off
The other positions turn on the compressor only if the outside temp is greater than 50 degrees F. (10 degrees C.):
1. MAX - A/C
2. A/C
3. Panel & Floor
4. Defrost
5. Floor & Defrost
Hope this helps .... happy motoring ...
Now I need help deciding on air springs for the rear. It seems that if the load of the trailer matches the stock suspension system, air springs are not needed. The tongue weight will be on the high side for this trailer (according to Sundowner) but it will still be well under the truck rating, so I assume air springs will provide a better ride. I will use the truck mostly for towing, but would still like the better no-load ride with air springs. The air springs will also allow the truck to ride lower giving me more room above the Royal Sport bed I am considering (no-load bed height 56 inches, level trailer height 60 inches). I am considering a fleetco system (http://www.fleetcoproducts.com). I would appreciate comments on the need for air springs and product recommendations.
I thought I'd had my CC clunk fixed by tightening the rear sway bar, but it is still barely audible. I have the V10, 3.73, auto 4x4 and I get 11/5-12.5 depending on speed and A/C. Gas is $1.50/gal for regular here in NE Ga. and it's costing me $5/tank more than it was a month ago.
Regarding the Flat 4 plug from the factory: Neither my utility trailer or our Scout trailer would fit it. It had the same config as the trailer. Ford obviously screwed up. I thought about trimming it, but those things get cruddy enough the way they are. However, a quick trip to the local RV dealer and $1.95 later, fixed me up with a 6" adapter that mated the two just fine. The 7 to 4 adapter at WalMart is also a fix, but it costs about $10.
I got my new camper. It's a 29' Prowler. Haven't had it out yet, but pulling it home was a breeze. It's a bumper pull and the tongue weight barely dipped the rear at all. We're going out this weekend and if all goes well, we may be heading back to Colorado for two weeks in August.
Happy Fourth of July to everyone out there.
PS-Who was it that mounted fog lights under the rear bumper last winter and which wire did he tap? I think I'll need some bigger back up lights to see the new camper.
Just to check on my hitch it has V-5 on the sticker, is this a class 5 or 4? There are no other markings on it but trailer weight 10000lbs and tongue weight 5000lbs.
Mine has a 4" drop (my F250 is a 4X4).
Can't answer your question, but the Ford Trailer Towing Guide probably has all the information you need. I need to get one myself. I searched the Ford Website for this, and it's online, but only in a password-protected Fleet area.
I loaded coolers in the truck bed and was really surprised on how easy the paint was scratched. Hope to have time soon to get a spray in liner but might have to wait to Fall.
llamadave--where are you? I raise llamas in VA. With the rig you are setting up, you must hit all the shows and sales. I missed Goodyears... but will be a Nationals.
Still love the truck and my paint job--paradise blue(or whatever they called it) with gold--v10 2k250 cc. The folks in town know it's me!!
Have a fun and safe 4th.
I thought they sounded good. I used to pull a boat back from the lake after dark each time we went and I always worked way too hard to see when I parked.
Has anybody installed the new K&N Generation II air ilter kit yet and what are the results?
Responding to the stream of posts about caps; we have a Glasstite Targa that I'm happy with. The cab height is worth considering if you're interested in fitting under a standard garage door opening. I believe we got it for $1095 with slider, headliner, light--just have to go to the big s*itty where competition keeps prices down.
Yours Truly
My hitch receiver is a Draw-Tite Heavy-Duty Class IV. Stock #41922. It's the one that Draw-Tite gives when you type in your truck make and model at the Draw-Tite web site. www.drawtite.com I don't think there is such a thing as a Class V bumper hitch. I think it goes to a 5th wheel at that point. But I could be wrong. I have a two-horse with a dressing room. Max. weight rating of 7000# for the trailer. My hitch has a weight carrying rating of 10,000# max trailer weight/1000# tongue weight. It has a weight distributing rating of 12,000# max trailer/1200# max tongue weight. Now I think this means to pull a trailer weighing more than 10,000# you would have to use sway bars. Others would know better about the difference between "weight distributing" and "weight carrying" maximum amounts.
My drop has a solid sleeve not hollow and it drops 4". The guy who installed it put on a 6" drop when he had the trailer there, but once I loaded horses the trailer rode too low in front so I got a 4" and am happy with that. I would rather the trailer ride a tiny bit high in front than low. Horses are more comfortable that way. I don't know, but I don't think they make a bumper pull trailer bigger than a two-horse. Any bigger than that and you need the fifth wheel. Hope this all helps.
Interestingly, today, I took an interstate trip and spent half the day on cruise at 60 and about half at 70 and got 16.5 mpg (mixed a/c no a/c)-it's about 95 degrees here in N.Georgia. I normally get 11-12 around town. Filled up at $1.42 for regular at Racetrac.
Anyone figure out yet which wire to tap for the rear "foglights?" Thanks for the help.
Thanks.
And pricing http://forums.ford-diesel.com:8080/ubb/Forum18/HTML/000492.html
Option info http://forums.ford-diesel.com:8080/ubb/Forum18/HTML/000452.html
And a summary/discussion of 2001 changes http://forums.ford-diesel.com:8080/ubb/Forum18/HTML/000425.html
See a theme in the host web site?
Only problem I've dicovered so far is with a slight area on top of the left front fender that was not covered good with paint at the factory. Only I notice it after It has been cleaned on a bright day. The dealer said they would fix it but I haven't decided if I want them painting on my new truck.
The V-10 is awesome! I have 38" tires on my truck and still get 12 MPG. Of course I have to utilize my GPS to calculate the mileage. Still have to get the speedo corrected.
Towed a trailer with approx. 5000 lb. payload the other day through some mountainous areas here in Alaska. Friend of mine was following with the same load on his trailer with the 97 PSD. He was disheartened that I kept waiting for him at the top of the grades. He couldn't believe I was pulling that load with the big tires and he couldn't keep up.
Put the K&N filter in. Seems to have made a difference on the low end. The sound of the intake when taking off is a little louder. Haven't checked any MPG #'s since the install.
Found the drivers side emerg. brake line was rubbing the frame a little. Put some bend on the bracket that holds it in place. Good to go.
I've got 6500 miles on my 2K SD 4X4 Lariat V-10 CC Auto 4.30 LWB ESOF with 6" susp. lift and 38" tires and love it.
Hope you folks having the problems get them straight because all my C***y friends that look up to my truck and drool are thinking of coming over to a real truck.
And yes, I am biased......
Happy trails.
I have silver,sc,sb,V10,3.73,auto,4x4,off-road,color matched factory running boards,tow package. It was amazing, it was fresh off of the delivery truck in Tennessee and they brought it to Atlanta two days later. It now has 16k on it.
I have a few concerns all of which I think the dealer will take care of:
1. front brake pulsations
2. popping under the drivers floor board (spring?)
3. clunking in the driveline
4. The most bothersome for me is that the tranny will not let the torque of the engine work before it shifts down. I just know that this thing has the ability to pull a little more but I can't keep it from downshifting.
I have a few wants too:
1. Does anybody know if some other shocks will
take the harshness out of the ride?
2. Does anybody know if a turbo is available yet
for V10's?
3. Would a chip also help me with the tranny
situation? I can not get any info on what the
chip will actually do.
In closing I must say this is a great site....
and even a better truck.
http://www.paxtonauto.com/catalog/index.html#ford
Not sure on the Turbo but Supercharging is an option.
On the harshness the shocks won't have an effect but if you have the heavy duty package on the front that could explain it. Check the tire pressures also. No need to run the high pressures unless you are towing. I noticed in an earlier post that dropping the pressure will help your ride when MT. Of course it is a SD
one in sept. which will have an inter/aftercooler
kit later on (paxton has one right for their
s/c right now) .. next year? and kenne bell
has their whipplecharger out now (which my truck
is getting right now actually)
but for those driving around for awhile, have you noticed a tendency for the truck to pull right (therefore you need constant pressure toward left to correct)? I still believe the truck is slightly out of alignment... or is it the road crown? difficult to tell. when driving down most roads (interstate's, etc,) I'm holding the steering wheel horizontal spoke about 5 degrees counter-clockwise. normal? your thoughts appreciated. -Lee
lewac: You could probably prove to yourself if is the road crown or not by seeing whats its like when your in the left lane of an interstate.
My truck pulls slightly right in the right lane, and slightly left in the left lane..
On level roads it seems to be neutral although it does have slightly more wander than the 99' Windstar.. I think this is mostly because of the stiffer suspension making the SD react to bumps more.
I do have a thunk/clunk every once in a while when doing tight turns in parking lots etc.. I'm 99% sure its the cab mount bolts based on when and where I'm hearing the sounds. I've also seen some threads on ford-diesel.com that reference this as well..
Today, I took a look at the rear cab mount bolts because they are really easy to get to in the SC.
The funny part is that the left rear mount bolt head is 15/16" and the right rear mount bolt head is 13/16". That doesn't make any sense to me, but oh well.
My plan is to later on remove these bolts and see if theres evidence of the bolt hitting the side of the cab. Others on Ford-diesel.com described this. For now I just gave an extra tweak to see if it makes any difference..
MPG is consistant: 15.7 with mixed city/highway driving.. 17+, when mostly highway.. I'm sure if I took a long highway trip empty it would be in the low 18's.
00' F250 XLT SC 5.4L 5sp 4.10LS