It's true you should let the turbo cool off for a minute or two after driving hard. But the reported problems have nothing to do with letting the turbo cool down before shutting off the engine. This happens while driving. I believe it has something to do with either overly conservative/sensitive ECU programming, the exhaust gas temp, or the intake air temp (IC too hot).
At this point, it's hard to say exactly what's causing the problem. Once there are enough reported cases of this, and Mazda understands the problem, they will hopefully come up with a fix.
Yeah, it's more that the intercooler isn't efficient enough to cool down the intake charge continuously. I wonder if Mazda will revise it somehow? Maybe tweak the ECU to limit boost under certain conditions?
Or maybe we'll see them ad a scoop of some sort, or ducting to route air a certain way.
that Mazda exec(s) ridiculed scoops. I guess it will be hard for such person(s) approve one even if necessary. I do not see nice, cheap solution. Only solution seems to be to limit boost and change engine HP ratings which causes different kind of PR disaster. Probably few returned cars too.
what does the loss of power feel like? When I accelerate up a hill hard in third gear I get a cutting out, or choking feel sometimes. Is this whats happening?
I wondered about buying the first of MS6's. I went through a year of tweaking when the first Lincoln LS's came out in 99. The car never did run right
Yeah, it's more that the intercooler isn't efficient enough to cool down the intake charge continuously
That's what our service manager thought could be the problem.
There is no cheap solution. I doubt you will see a hood scoop. The problem is only with the NA version on the car. The Australian and European version have 238 HP, or so I was told. I don't think the car will sell with that type of performance.
The turbo was the reason the car was delayed here as well. They wanted to fine-tune it. Maybe they didn't do enough R&D...
Have a look at the most recent Road and Track which compares several awd sedans. The Mazda incurred serious 'heat soak.' The acceleration numbers were something like 0-60 in 5.9 and 0-100 in 24. At higher speeds, the turbo simply got too hot, severly raining on the parade. For sake of reference, my Honda Odyssey will hit 100 a smidge quicker (not that I drive it like that or anything....my wife...That is another story). I was seriously looking at purchasing this car but will be ordering a B-Spec Legacy GT this weekend instead. R&T tested it to 60 in 5.1 seconds and 100 in 14, for comparison. No issue with 'heat soak.' Mazda had better hurry up and offer a retro fit hood scoop and re-positioning of the intercooler....fast.
It can't be heat soak, because the power loss problem disappears when the car is shut down and restarted. If it was heat soak, the IC would still be hot, and the problem would persist after the car is restarted.
It's not fuel-related either, considering that owners running 93 octane are getting the problem as well.
I test drove an MS6 this weekend in typical DC area traffic. I noticed the clutch required a some muscle to keep depressed (much more so than my Acrua RSX). Is this a temporary thing until the cluch is broken in? Has anyone else noticed? If I sit in traffic for an hour or so, I'll have one heck of a sore leg.
I'm sorry to hear about your hp/ turbo issues. It sounds like MS6 needs a turbo timer, which allows the car to idle for a set amount of time (without a key in the ignition). Does anyone know if the turbo is water cooled? What type of BOV? Be sure to check your coolant levels and ensure your engine fans are operating as normal. Open the hood and look for obvious signs, coolant leaks, expanding or loose hoses, and white smoke. Good luck.
My left leg was sore for the 1st week with the car. I went from an Automatic to this ms6. When lights are long due to traffic, I have to put it in nutral. It doesnt break in....
With our below freezing temps I do like how fast the car warms up, when you are shivering and want heat. I am so curious how the 90 degree summer will affect the turbo.
I doesnt bother me now, because I dont demand the hard driving very often. I'm sure its a concern for Mazda though.
When lights are long due to traffic, I have to put it in nutral.
You should do that anyway. Keeping the clutch depressed will result in premature wear of the clutch throwout bearing. You should only depress the clutch when shifting gears, when coming to a stop, or when starting from a stop. In fact, you don't even need to use the clutch at all when stopping. You can just move the gear lever into Neutral without even touching the clutch.
I've had that discussion with SOOO many people. I had a room mate that used to take his car out of gear even whenever he wasn't on the throttle. It was infuriating to ride with him.
Nevertheless, "keep your foot off the clutch" is the best way to approach driving a stick if you want to take care of the clutch assembly. You need to engage it only when necessary and keep it in neutral (with your foot firmly planted on the brake pedal) when stopped.
I guess its a whole new generation of manual transmission driving. In the 70's we all learned to not only hold the clutch in at a stop, but to down shift your way to a stop.
Its hard to change after 30 years. I have tried it the other way and find with the mazda speed, I have someone honking on my butt because I am not fast enough off the green light. First gear on the M-speed is a bit tricky, which all owners will agree. It can be pretty jumpy if your timing is not right on...
Now I know my children in there 20's drive there manuals wrong because as I was taught by my parents, I taught them. One of them has stopped shifting down, but the oldest drives the "old fashioned way".............
The creeping in slow traffic will always be hard on the clutch
In the 70's we all learned to not only hold the clutch in at a stop, but to down shift your way to a stop.
Speak for yourself!!
I learned to drive in the late 60s and learned to drive (and love) manual trannies in the early 70s. "Keep your foot off the clutch" is how you extend the life of the clutch. I agree that stop and go traffic is hard on a clutch and a leg, but the principle is the same - keep your foot off the clutch at all times when you are not actually shifting gears.
I've also never understood braking with the engine, which is what I think you are saying. It's a lot easier/cheaper to replace worn-out brakes than an engine.
I've also never understood braking with the engine, which is what I think you are saying. It's a lot easier/cheaper to replace worn-out brakes than an engine.
It wouldn't be the engine, but the clutch that would need replacing.
Not only is it recommended to downshift when descending hills (so the brakes don't overheat and fade), but if you rev-match when downshifting, it's no more clutch wear than a common upshift.
Some guy named Pat Goss who is on PBS' Motorweek and has a Washington Post column on cars says you should be in gear at a stop to save avoid wear on the transmission. His rationale is that it is a lot less expensive to replace the clutch.
Funny thing is I think I was taught that is against the law to leave your car in neutral at a stop in case someone hits you from behind. I still do it, though, since I think it is unlikely my foot is going to come off the brake pedal. I might have to rethink this now .... Oh, wait! I'm LEASING the car so the tranny only needs to last 3 years.
To require engine braking. I really doubt that's a real problem with modern braking systems. I'm sure there are exceptions, but probably not enough to mention.
How does being in gear at a stop sign save wear on a transmission? That doesn't make any sense. How does neutral wear the transmission. Automatics might ought to be in gear but not a manual. I found where he said that. And it really made no sense at all. link title Considering the transmission is designed to be used continuously but the release bearing isn't.
Looking seriously at purchasing the Speed6 in Liquid Platinum - just had a few questions - What are you seeing for gas mileage average city/highway? How is the AWD system in snow and ice? What is your overall driving impression after driving it day after day? Did you pay MSRP? Thanks in advance! Donzy
My Speed6 GT w/NAV has a little over 2000 miles on it, so I've only run about 5 tanks of gas so far. I've gotten about 20mpg with mixed city/highway driving, and a solid 25mpg for one tankful that was consumed at an average of 75mph for nearly 300 miles.
I haven't driven the car on snow/ice, so I can't comment on the AWD system in that respect.
Overall driving impression- this car is a blast to drive! It's a rocket and never ceases to amaze me. For my 80-mile/day commute, it's pure joy. The seats are comfortable. Its suspension is firm, so you feel more road bumps. But, I expected that from a performance sedan. On the downside, it allows a lot of road noise into the cabin on coarse pavement.
I didn't pay MSRP. I got mine for $200 over invoice.
I was taught that too, about it being against the law. (I wonder :confuse: ) Also when parked, I was told it should always be in gear as an extra safe guard with the parking break. We have rough winters and throwing your car out of gear and using the breaks only... would send you right through the intersection on a snowy day. We also have steep grades. If i get in the habit of taking my car out of gear and using the breaks to stop, It wouldn't be the safest situation all the time.. I dont "ride the clutch" Its used only to gear change. otherwise foot is on the floor. I agree, you should keep your foot off the clutch.
I agree. After 3300 miles, I still love it. My only caveat is that I don't see why they had to make the clutch such a pain in the butt. For me, shifting smoothly in the lower gears requires an almost zen-like focus which is sometimes difficult to muster. For instance, a news story involving Dick Cheney or NSA spying will often distract me enough to grind a gear and I really don't need the extra stress . . . . :shades:
There has been a lot of posts about how good the Pirelli's are on this site. I read a LOT of reviews at Tirerack and saw some posts about geting some pretty loud and annoying noise from them after about 30K. Has anyone expireienced this wihle using them on thier 6?
I have the P zero neros on my speed 6. i have about 2200 miles on them. they are relatively quiet. I think they ride a little softer than the stock bridgestones. I think there is a small sacrifice in handling. I don't think it handles as crisp as the car I test drove. that could be me just getting used to driving it every day. my dealer's test mule is a sport but I bought the GT. there shouldn't be a difference in handling ,but who knows?? Extra weight from interior upgrades, sunfoof, nav.....
Tires are fine in rain. I have had them in 2-4 inches of snow and some ice with no difficulty. correct me if i'm wrong, but when the car shifts power to rear wheels, the 4wd light comes on. if that is so, then the car rarely needs to do so. i have only seen the light when accelerating hard in first gear while turning, and once on some loose sand. With these tires, I think that it is pretty much a FWD 99% of the time, even in rain and snow.
I'm confused. I understand the need for higher pressure due to increased torque, but shouldn't increasing hydraulic assist help? I used to drive a 120hp car with 100% manual clutch ... wanna talk about sore foot?
Our dash lights are covered in the owners manual. If I recall correctly, our "4WD" light (to the right of the speedometer) NEVER lights up (other than during the initial instrument panel/light diagnostic) unless the AWD system is having problems, even if the AWD system is (temporarily) active. The "DSC/TCS" light (between tach & speedometer) flashes when our DSC/TCS is active. The lack of an "AWD-is-active" light is one of the few deficiencies of the car in my opinion; though I hasten to add that the side directional, headlight washers, and rear wiper available on the MS6 in Japan/Europe are missed, too.
after researching this car for a month and comparing it with almost everything (STi, Evo, G35X, 330xi, TL, 350Z, TT roadster...), I came to the conclusion this car was the best offer (not just for the money, but for driving fun and performance too). I had to wait 2 weeks for my Black Mica with Black/White interior to come in. WOW, I love this car, I got rid of my 2004 Z4 3.0 for it (gave me too much trouble this winter). This is not a BMW, but it also cost $10K less for the options it has. It is faster than my Z4, better ride, better control, and the shifter is better than my old M Roadster. The seats are nice, but I question the longevity of the white leather. My girlfriend has a Mazda 3, and when I took her for a ride in my new speed6, she could not believe it was a mazda. Keyless entry and start is awesome. I suggest picking up an AWD emblem off ebay (place it under Mazda logo). I also bought a turbo logo (VW beetle style) that I will put under the speed6 emblem, or on other side. Shark fin antenna will look great once I get that in. Working one for $70 shipping included on sharkfinantenna.com, they customize it to your cars color for free. Winter tires will be added next fall. Audio system lacks a little and no ipod hookup. heated seats lacking (on/off click switch). But like I said, I am coming from a BMW. overall, I am very pleased with the purchase and would not go back to my Z4, although I do want the new M Roadster. Has anyone tinted the windows on this car yet? Just wondering about costs and how it looks (what tint darkness did you use)?
FYI, there are aftermarket adapters that allow you to connect your iPod to the MS6 headunit and retain use of the steering wheel controls to change songs/playlists. Requires some disassembly of the center console to install, but it's possible.
Is it possible to connect the ipod without removing the console. I removed the glovebox and it looks like you can get behind the radio that way, but I am not sure if the connector to the satellite radio 16 pin outlet is reachable (much easier if it is). Thank you for any help.
thanks, I think I should be able to remove it on my own. Just one more thing to decide, which unit to buy? Seems like there are two, the ice link (also called the neo by mp3yourcar.com) and the audio link by RPM. Audio link costs $139, ice link costs $219. Any quality differences that are known? I have an FM trans right now, so either will probably sound a lot better (for some reason I got a lot better signal in my old bmw than I do with the mazda, same ipod and trans).
I have the audio link. It works really well, but the cable isn't long enough to allow for a remotely sloppy installation. You have to be precise about routing the cable if you want to stow the iPod in the armrest console top tray. The other thing that the audio link has is an additional headphone jack that is compatible with any input source, so if you have an aftermarket satellite radio or other MP3 player, you can use that connection if the iPod is unplugged (otherwise the audio signals play over each other).
The vendor (therpmstore.com) has excellent customer service. I would contact them and ask some questions about the audio link product and how it compares to the Neo.
Beyond that, I don't know much about the other product, but it's obviously much more expensive.
bought the audio link yesterday for $119.95 with the discount code from mazda6club website. Shipped today, hopefully will get it soon. Now if I could just figure out why my alarm stopped beeping when I lock and unlock it, still locks, but no beeps anymore? Any ideas? I love this car, so much fun to drive and you surprise so many people off the line, they think they can beat you when merging from 2 lanes into 1, but they can't, very few cars could beat the speed6 enough to pull ahead at the same time. Again, I would recommend shark fin antenna and AWD/turbo emblems for this car, adds a lot to the looks. sharkfinantenna.com or other sites, and ebay for emblems.
Recently purchased Speed6 in Liquid Platinum - Awesome Car! Now reality has set in and beginning to look at snows for next winter - any thoughts? Can I go with a 17" rim (Will it fit over calipers)? 18" winter tires ain't cheap. Thankyou in advance for your opinions. Donzy
Reality sucks huh? Utah is having a ridiculously long winter this year. I wish I would have put snows on in Dec. when I bought the car. Every month I keep thinking I wont need them.....wrong!. :mad: This car is horrible in snow, or slick roads with the summer tires that come on it.
1. Does anyone know whether Mazda offers a hands-free cellular link for the MS6? I've searched their website and can find no mention of it?
2. I've read some of the discussions about this 'power-loss' problem. Just how serious is this? What percentage of cars does it affect. Where can one find independent information on it?
3. Mazda recommends 93 octane for the MS6. Here in California, the highest I've seen is 91. How does 91 affect the car and its performance?
Liquid Platinum. No options. You could say that I got the stripped down MS6. I don't care. This car rules. I had a blast just driving home from outside Denver to my home in the hills - 8,000'. The turbo seems to be impervious to the altitude. Very cool. Stereo cranks. Handles like it's on rails. I can't get enough of that turbo boost - it's like cocaine in a car. How the hack am I supposed to take it easy during the "break-in" period?!?!?
Comments
At this point, it's hard to say exactly what's causing the problem. Once there are enough reported cases of this, and Mazda understands the problem, they will hopefully come up with a fix.
Or maybe we'll see them ad a scoop of some sort, or ducting to route air a certain way.
-juice
I guess it will be hard for such person(s) approve one even if necessary.
I do not see nice, cheap solution.
Only solution seems to be to limit boost and change engine HP ratings which causes different kind of PR disaster.
Probably few returned cars too.
Krzys
I wondered about buying the first of MS6's. I went through a year of tweaking when the first Lincoln LS's came out in 99. The car never did run right
That's what our service manager thought could be the problem.
There is no cheap solution. I doubt you will see a hood scoop. The problem is only with the NA version on the car. The Australian and European version have 238 HP, or so I was told. I don't think the car will sell with that type of performance.
The turbo was the reason the car was delayed here as well. They wanted to fine-tune it. Maybe they didn't do enough R&D...
It's not fuel-related either, considering that owners running 93 octane are getting the problem as well.
With our below freezing temps I do like how fast the car warms up, when you are shivering and want heat. I am so curious how the 90 degree summer will affect the turbo.
I doesnt bother me now, because I dont demand the hard driving very often. I'm sure its a concern for Mazda though.
You should do that anyway. Keeping the clutch depressed will result in premature wear of the clutch throwout bearing. You should only depress the clutch when shifting gears, when coming to a stop, or when starting from a stop. In fact, you don't even need to use the clutch at all when stopping. You can just move the gear lever into Neutral without even touching the clutch.
It just made driving a stick look complicated.
Its hard to change after 30 years.
Now I know my children in there 20's drive there manuals wrong because as I was taught by my parents, I taught them. One of them has stopped shifting down, but the oldest drives the "old fashioned way".............
The creeping in slow traffic will always be hard on the clutch
Speak for yourself!!
I learned to drive in the late 60s and learned to drive (and love) manual trannies in the early 70s. "Keep your foot off the clutch" is how you extend the life of the clutch. I agree that stop and go traffic is hard on a clutch and a leg, but the principle is the same - keep your foot off the clutch at all times when you are not actually shifting gears.
I've also never understood braking with the engine, which is what I think you are saying. It's a lot easier/cheaper to replace worn-out brakes than an engine.
:P
Krzys
It wouldn't be the engine, but the clutch that would need replacing.
Not only is it recommended to downshift when descending hills (so the brakes don't overheat and fade), but if you rev-match when downshifting, it's no more clutch wear than a common upshift.
Krzys
Funny thing is I think I was taught that is against the law to leave your car in neutral at a stop in case someone hits you from behind. I still do it, though, since I think it is unlikely my foot is going to come off the brake pedal. I might have to rethink this now .... Oh, wait! I'm LEASING the car so the tranny only needs to last 3 years.
How does being in gear at a stop sign save wear on a transmission? That doesn't make any sense. How does neutral wear the transmission. Automatics might ought to be in gear but not a manual.
I found where he said that. And it really made no sense at all.
link title
Considering the transmission is designed to be used continuously but the release bearing isn't.
Donzy
I haven't driven the car on snow/ice, so I can't comment on the AWD system in that respect.
Overall driving impression- this car is a blast to drive! It's a rocket and never ceases to amaze me. For my 80-mile/day commute, it's pure joy. The seats are comfortable. Its suspension is firm, so you feel more road bumps. But, I expected that from a performance sedan. On the downside, it allows a lot of road noise into the cabin on coarse pavement.
I didn't pay MSRP. I got mine for $200 over invoice.
Its used only to gear change. otherwise foot is on the floor. I agree, you should keep your foot off the clutch.
Tires are fine in rain.
I have had them in 2-4 inches of snow and some ice with no difficulty.
correct me if i'm wrong, but when the car shifts power to rear wheels, the 4wd light comes on. if that is so, then the car rarely needs to do so. i have only seen the light when accelerating hard in first gear while turning, and once on some loose sand. With these tires, I think that it is pretty much a FWD 99% of the time, even in rain and snow.
This is just one example: iPod audio link
The connector is on the driver's side of the radio.
Click here to see a photo of the back of the HU
The iPod adapters plug into the port on the right of the photo, next to the antenna jack.
(The port on the left side of the photo is the main power/audio connector.)
BTW, to actually remove the HU, you will need to remove the glovebox to access a screw holding the HU to a support bracket.
Here's a pic of my iPod installation:
This is where the iPod adapter is stowed. (The cable runs down the back of the HU, under the shifter console, where it connects to the adapter):
The vendor (therpmstore.com) has excellent customer service. I would contact them and ask some questions about the audio link product and how it compares to the Neo.
Beyond that, I don't know much about the other product, but it's obviously much more expensive.
Donzy
2. I've read some of the discussions about this 'power-loss' problem. Just how serious is this? What percentage of cars does it affect. Where can one find independent information on it?
3. Mazda recommends 93 octane for the MS6. Here in California, the highest I've seen is 91. How does 91 affect the car and its performance?
Thanks -
Writing from Los Angeles
Mazda will hold the US debut of the 07 MazdaSpeed 3 at the NY auto show. April 13, 9:10 am is the scheduled time.
-juice
You going?
-juice
1. Does anyone know whether Mazda offers a hands-free cellular link for the MS6? I've searched their website and can find no mention of it?
2. Just how serious is this power-loss issue? What percentage of cars does it affect. Where can one find independent information on it?
3. Mazda recommends 93 octane for the MS6. Here in California, the highest I've seen is 91. How does 91 affect the car and its performance?
Thanks -
Writing from Los Angeles