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Honda Civic Sedan 2006
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Comments
in response to sightings:
I have only seen a silver EX sedan in motion. It was a dealer plate on test drive and it does look good from the back, a bit tall maybe, but interesting curves and creases. I wonder what the 'best' color for the Civic will be...ok, ok, depends on the person.
So, who wants to tell us if the turn signal in a new Civic is orange or red? I like orange better, as it is much more visible, and can save you from being rear-ended.
Also, if someone could post pictures of the interior, especially of folded back seats, it would be most appreciated! Thank you
The car is silver but around all the door windows it is outlined in that black sealant (not sure what to call it).
Thanks.
or sometimes in drive and stop on an incline, the car will roll down
the hill. Is this normal? I've never had an auto roll when in gear
before. Otherwise, the car is SWEET!
Thanks,
Chris
For the auto trans in my BMW3 & E320, those cars will stay & will not roll backwards on an incline even if I release the brakes or hand brakes.
My new 2006 EX coupe is a 5 speed manual, I have to use hand-brake when I "stop & go" on an incline.
Hey, it is a brand new car & it is under factory warranty. The dealer should replace the rubber strip for you (free of charge) if there is any defects. Even if it is accidently damaged or torned under reasonable conditions, I think the dealer will still replace it for free.
2 years ago, I accidently torn the rubber strip which seal the edge of the car trunk when I pull a heavy box from the trunk. The car was under warranty & the dealer replace it for free (the dealer got paid by the manufacturer for replacing parts under warranty).
Worse come to worse, if you happened to buy the car from a nasty dealer & they refuse to replace it for free, you can just say no & drive the car away. You have nothing to lose anyway.
I don't want to over-heat or wear out the clutch pre-maturely by partially engaging the clutch on a slope. Beside, you will also burn up more gas & your legs have to partially engaging the clutch as well as the accelerator for the whole length of time when you pause.
When I use the hand-brake, I just pull the hand-brake once & it will lock itself in position. The engine can idle and my legs & hand can relax for the whole length of time when the car stop or pause.
When it is time to go again, I just release the hand-brakes slowly. There is nothing to it.
Seriously? Partially engaging the clutch is not enough? This MT sounds worse and worse. I can't imagine the pain of having to engage the hand brake on an incline every time.
We used to call that feathering the clutch, and it really wears out the clutch fast. Using the handbrake technique is much better.
Either way I gather it doesn't work on the Civic anyway?
1. you hold the car in place with the handbrake, then when you want to start again, you'd slightly release the handbrake and at the same time release the clutch and the car will move forward without rolling backwards if you time it right.
2. you have your right foot on the brake while you hold your car in place, the when you want to start the car again, you'll release the clutch a little bit so that it has some friction and move your right foot over to the accelerator before the car rolls back.
Method 2 is harder to execute properly because you have to be way faster, but if you do it right, then you won't have any excessive wear on the clutch. I personally can do it without the handbrake and find method 2 more elegant, so that's what I mostly do. Executed correctly, both are fine...
As for the lockup feature in the torque converter, of course Honda uses this, as does just about every other manufacturer these days, but the lockup feature doesn't activate until the car hits cruising speed, with the throttle lightly feathered, usually only the the top one, or sometimes two, gears. I have heard that MB's new seven-spd automatic has the lockup in the top 4 gears, but again, only at a steady throttle with a light accelerator application. In any case, this feature is completely out of the picture at idle on an incline.
Some of this may be due to the first dealer tank being filled less, but I don't see how, because I stop at auto shutoff. The next couple of tanks will tell more.
My commute is about 78 miles a day, w/ about 13 miles city.
To test for the best poissible mpg, my driving was conservative -- most in-town shifts at 2500 rpm or lower, and an effort to use 5th gear at 40 mph or more.
But this tank included my son driving for 5-6 miles and higher-rev starts and shifting, and me doing several shifts at 4,000-5,000 rpm for the first time. Acceleration is very comparable to my former V6 Eclipse, but I don't feel bad like I'm burning a ton of gas.
I'm pretty sure the manual doesn't address break-in, but Honda Owner Link says: "Help assure your vehicle's future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you drive during the first 600 miles (1,000 kilometers). During this period: Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration. Avoid hard braking. New brakes need to be broken in by moderate use for the first 200 miles (300 km)."
Can you elaborate on the clutch being "unusual"?
When I first test drove a sedan 5-speed, I found the clutch to be almost so light it was as if the pedal wasn't attached to anything. My kids' car is a 94 Sentra 5-speed, which lately has been requiring more clutch pressure. But I've adapted to the Honda very well and really like it.
Regarding MT vs AT gearing, from Honda Owner Link:
Transmissions
5-Speed Manual Transmission Gear Ratios
1st: 3.143
2nd: 1.870
3rd: 1.235
4th: 0.949
5th: 0.727
Reverse: 3.308
Final Drive: 4.290
Compact 5-Speed Automatic Transmission Gear Ratios (available)
1st: 2.666
2nd: 1.534
3rd: 1.022
4th: 0.721
5th: 0.525
Reverse: 1.957
Final Drive: 4.440
Anyway, I've noticed many posts on which folks here have tried to specify their transmission type by saying, "I have a 5-speed." Huh? :confuse: Since both manual and automatic transmissions are 5-speeds, this is probably not the best way to describe the type of transmission you have - unless perhaps, you're referring to a previous-generation Civic. :-)
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I test drove a 2006 EX/AT yesterday.
I noted the shifter was 1,2,D3?,D... and I could shift between D and D?3 without pressing the button on the shifter. Does D3 eliminate the overdrive? Could someone elaborate on the features of the automatic transmission?
My previous compacts have been MT. They did not have a manual transmission model to test drive. Might be time for a change.
Thanks
Crusing at the same speed, the engine for MT will need to be buzzing at 38% higher RPM than AT. (i.e. if AT is 4000 RPM, MT will need to be turning at 5,520 RPM?)
On the other hand, "D3" is not overdrive. "D3" can be described as limiting the transmission to use the 3rd gear only. You are limiting the transmission to shift to 3rd gear. It supposed to help the driver to control the car under special conditions such as...tire spinning on the snow...or prevent the car from going too fast down a steep incline, etc.
Also don't forget that the iVTEC has it's highest efficiency for a pretty high band of RPM's...so I wouldn't make assumptions like that...the manual has a great gas mileage as well...
For the same car with the same engine, MT should get better gas milage on the highway than AT. Although a 38% higher gear ratio does not equate to 38% more fuel consumption, if Honda put a over-drive gear ratio in their MT (i.e. closer to that of AT), I am sure that the MT will be able to get noticeably better gas milage on the highway than AT.
However, instead of pushing for better gas milage on the MT, Honda is tipping the balance towards high reviving performance using higher final gear ratio in their MT.
"There's been a lot of talk of Speed VS RPM for the '06 Civic so I thought I'd chime in with some calculations for the MANUAL versions. Since, with a MANUAL, there is a direct mechanical connection between the engine and the wheels (when the clutch is fully let out), RPM at a given speed can be easily calculated and is a function of: final drive ratio, top gear ratio, speed and tire diameter (which is based on tire size i.e 195/65-15, 205/55-16, etc). I will not bore with the formula; it is easy to either derive or search the net to find; there is no magic involved. The '06 Civic DX/LX/EX (both sedan and 2dr) have identical final drive and transmission ratios, the only difference is tire size. The SI has different final drive and transmission ratios as well as different tires. All the data for this was gotten right off the spec pages on the HONDANEWS.COM site.
Anyway, here is how the data plays out (allowing for a tolerance of about +/- 100-200 RPM or so):
'06 CIVIC DX (Sedan&2DR) 5SP:
Final drive: 4.294, 5th gear ratio: .727, Tires: 195/65-15
RPM60: 2529 RPM70: 2951 RPM75: 3162
'06 CIVIC LX/EX (Sedan&2DR) 5SP:
Final drive: 4.294, 5th gear ratio: .727, Tires: 205/55-16
RPM60: 2539 RPM70: 2963 RPM75: 3174
'06 CIVIC SI (2DR) 6SP:
Final drive: 4.765, 6th gear ratio: .659, Tires: 215/45-17 (all season & Summer):
RPM60: 2575 RPM70: 3005 RPM75: 3219
And yes, though the SI has a 6SP and has a taller ratio in 6th than the others in 5th, it also has a shorter final drive which ultimately makes for even higher revs at speed than the 5 speeds do.
Here is part 2, the AUTOMATICs. Same thing as before, same calculations but plugged in the transmission & final drive ratios for the AUTOMATIC on the DX/LX/EX (SI n/a w/ AUTO). Remember that an AUTO has a fluid coupling unless you are cruising and the torque-converter is in full-lock mode. For our sake here, the calculations assume you are cruising and the torque-converter is in full-lock, therefore acting like a manual at that point. With that in mind:
Anyway, here is how the data plays out (allowing for a tolerance of about +/- 100-200 RPM or so). I have included the results from the MANUAL version below the results for the AUTO for comparison:
'06 CIVIC DX (Sedan&2DR) 5SP Auto:
Final drive: 4.437, 5th gear ratio: .525, Tires: 195/65-15
RPM60: 1887 RPM70: 2202 RPM75: 2359 (Auto)
RPM60: 2529 RPM70: 2951 RPM75: 3162 Manual)
'06 CIVIC LX/EX (Sedan&2DR) 5SP Auto:
Final drive: 4.437, 5th gear ratio: .525, Tires: 205/55-16
RPM60: 1895 RPM70: 2211 RPM75: 2369 (Auto)
RPM60: 2539 RPM70: 2963 RPM75: 3174 (Manual)
For anyone who owns/has driven these, are these at least in the ballpark?
The RPMs for the AUTO are close, but a little lower, than my '02 V6 EX Coupe (which is a 4sp auto). "
This was such a wealth of detailed information I thought it well worth repeating. Thanks 02accrdv6ex
The mpg and short gearing in TSX, Civic just makes no sense. I would gladly pay $100 more for a six speed with an actual OD with 5th gear the high rpm, hey I am cool cruising gear.
This car is very solid and upscale for the money. I repeat that from last time.
I originally had a manual in mind but the rpm figures are horrid. I now see the same idiocy in the new Lexus IS 250 manual-much lower than the automatic.
I digress, the civic is cool. Compared to my once 98 civic manual the new one is a bargain and much more classy ride.
I read temple vtecs little engine test and noticed the knocking they refer to in this engine. I have filled up with premium to conduct a seat of the pants mpg test and feel test. Gas went down to $2.42 premium so hey why not try it out.
Still disappointed in cornering abilility on uneven pavement, it gets upset much easier than I expected.
Here is how I figured it. $450 a month is $16,200 for the 3 years. The MSRP is about 22,500 with destination. Make it $23,000 for benefit of the doubt. $16,200 is 70% of the value of the automobile. A 2002 SI with 80,000 in good condition would sell from the dealer at (blue book) $11,500. Assuming the new SI wouldn't sell for less in 3 years, that would value the new car close to $27,700. a $4700 mark up. I said no thank you. I am waiting to see if there is a response. What do others think?
David
Why not just buy it? The monthly payment on $22,000 at around 7% interest for 60 months would only be about $435. At the three year mark (length of the lease) you'd be able to sell the car with around 80k miles for a significant amount more than you owe.
Just for comparison sake, an '03 Civic Si with 80k miles would currently be worth about $10,500 which is 55% of original price. Using those numbers, at the three year mark, your Si would be worth about $12,100 and your loan payoff would be $9,700. You'd make money instead of owing at the end of a lease.
Just some food for thought. Hope it helps.
Also, even though the car has more horsepower it doesnt feel any faster than my 01 or even a 1998 lx civic. half throttle or flooring it below 4,000 RPM makes little difference. Also, the wide spacing of the gears in the automatic leaves the car gasping right after it shifts.
Factor in the 20,000 sticker and the fact my friend just bought an 04 EX accord v-6 sedan for 22,900 I decided to pass on the deal. Dealers here in Phoenix are contracting buyers at 21,500 on these new civics and getting it.
All I/We want to know is, if the car looks good inside and out, its comfortable, has good gas mileage, has enough power to pass another vehicle, and is reliability, PERIOD....
Would you please start a separate forum for the 2006 Civic Si, and include the coupe?
There is so much interest in the new Civic sedan that no one wants to talk about the fabulous new Si ~~~ Also I believe a poor man's sporty car can be made with the new coupe.
For years I drove an old (1967) Porsche 912, putting down about 85 horsepower at the rear wheels and kept up quite well with much newer more powerful Porsches on mountain roads. I had upgraded my suspension and tires, but my point is that power isn't everything beyond straight line performance, and I think it would be fun to put some Falken Azenis tires on a new 5-speed LX Civic coupe, and GO. The new coupe is 3 inches lower than the sedan so it should look sportier.
:P
Is this a good deal?
Current Features
of Your Factory System:
Keyless Entry
Panic Remote
Flashing Parking Lights
LED Indicator
Dome Light Illumination
Electric Entry Points Protected
Features Added Upon Upgrade
Electronic shock sensor
Factory alarm trigger on shock violation
$2,000 1 yr. deductible reimbursement guarantee.
3 yr. New car replacement guarantee.
(from here)
Thanks.