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Ford Ranger III
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Comments
There is a section there that gives specs.
On your driver's door is a tag with all kinds of info about the vehicle. One of them is AXLE. There should be about a 2 or 3 digit code for the axle. It indicates the ratio and if it is a limited slip or not. Anyway, this is what you look up on the above site....
Stick to under 3500 with ANY of them. I tow under 2000 pounds with an XLT 4x4 4.0 V6 and have gotten into some scary situations even at that. I am conservative, and drive no more than 55 to 60 with a boat; wet roads and high winds will rock a Ranger around like a Tonka toy. Rangers are NOT that heavy or stable enough to justify towing 3 tons. Get yourself an F-150 or tundra if you want to tow that much weight. Consider your OWN SAFETY as a factor.
This means that at 4900# trailer weight, you are pulling 1.5 times your vehicle weight, which becomes a little "iffy" to control. The Ranger is a fine tow vehicle (one of the best) if you consider power vs. weight ratio; there is ample torque and HP to pull the load. But as others have stated, that big slug behind you can start to negatively affect your ability to control your vehicle. I am now looking for a Ranger to pull a 2850# load; which is light enough to eliminate most worries (with trailer brakes). You want to use that impressive 5800# tow rating? Take a yard of concrete home a mile or two thru residentials; see how you like the feeling of the trailer steering your vehicle. Now imagine a blowout on a trailer wheel at 50, 55, or 65 mph with that load. It's heading for the shoulder, and so is the rear axle of your truck. The Ranger can pull tree stumps, drag a broken 5800# Suburban a few miles to the mechanic, etc. But getting out on the highway with more than 4500# is asking for grief; like someone else here said "forget about enjoying the ride"....
What I'm looking for is a comuter truck that I can drive to and from work in (70 Miles round trip) so I'm not adding all those miles on the SuperCrew.
Anyone have the Duratec? (They started putting these is the Ranger in 2001) I don't know to much about it, is power ok? gas milage? Any mechanic problems?
And for you Vulcan owners what do you get for highway mileage?
Just want a basic 4x2 truck (Airconditioning & Cupholders)
James
The new 2.3l is even better.
FX4's with 5 speed, and I think the 4L, broke the rear end. All were recalled, sales and production was stopped.
I haven't heard any more about the problems, so I expect the problem was fixed. Check the VIN through Ford to see if the recall has been done, or it was made after the rear end was changed.
Ask the people at the dealership. If they can't answer your questions, get phone numbers for regional sales, and ask them if the problem was fixed.
"No one ever mentioned the Torsen rear."
Torsion could be a mispronounced Torsen.
Keep calling man, and make sure you talk to the same person. Ordering is hard to wait for, especially on a rare truck which has just gone through a recall to replace the rear differential.
1) Your ordering dealer never reads the info sent out by Ford, and has never heard about the problems with the rear ends on FX4 with manuals breaking and production being stopped.
2) Your dealer knows exactly what is happening. He is making up various lies about what is holding up the truck. Trim piece. Binding boot. Ha! A truck that has rolled off the end of a production line does not sit around for weeks while problems like this are fixed. Fixes like this are done in hours, not weeks. He is afraid you will cancel the order and take your business somewhere else!
And I think number 2 is has a much higher probability of being the truth! Some people, and I think your dealer, would rather lie about something rather than tell the truth, try to get additional, truthful info about when the problems will be resolved, and be upfront with you. And weekly logs - BS. I would bet money they can make an inquiry and receive a response on an individual build order at any time. They have these things called 'computers'.
Based on what you are experiencing, I would guess Ford is not building any new FX4's with manuals at this time.......
Isn't an FX4 just a 4x4 Edge with some additional offroad options? Cancel the order, tell the dealer you know he jerked you around, go to a another large Ford dealer that still has a lot of stock - find an Edge 4x4 with manual and add aftermarket offroad things to the truck later!!!!
P.S. I didn't think rebates applied to ordered vehicles? Only ones bought out of stock. Has the dealer lied to you about this also? Getting the Edge out of another dealers stock will definitely get you the $2,500 rebate.... And you will have the truck now.
You're dealing with snakes. You've been bitten several times already. Get out of the swamp.
Seems to run best on Arco, worst on Chevron locally in Oregon.
Stang - Ha Ha!!!
The Toyota (a 1978 model) is still running [I sold it to a former student of mine] with about 260K on the clock, and it still pings, with all original engine except for the alternator, starter, and head gasket. Not bad.
All engines do not ping, however, even under extreme loads. I've yet to get my Tacoma, or even the Ford Explorer SOHC 4.0 that I often drive, to ping under any conditions. Even my former Nissan 300ZX, with over 11:1 compression, didn't ping and I drove it hard. You seem like a smart guy so I'm sure you know that most engines today have adequate sensors that cause the computer to retard the timing and/or alter the fuel mixture if pinging is present. GM, for example, has a horrible track record for poor design in this area but that doesn't mean all vehicles are just as poorly designed. Minor pinging may not damage an engine but it isn't normal and can potentially damage a piston or worse over time. More than that, it's annoying. Now I will concede that an older engine, with considerable deposit buildup in the cylinders, may be more prone to have a problem. To reach a stage that the engine computer can't compensate though, should be well over 100,000 miles when decent fuel has been used in the vehicle. If all of your vehicles really do regularly ping, I would suggest that you replace your knock sensors and/or use something other than Kmart gasoline.
Are there tires out there than can add serious traction, yet still be OK for the interstate? My son will be driving approx. 100 miles a day to school on the interstate. Cost is really not a problem (well, it IS a problem, lol!), but if the tires don't work, I'm looking at losing serious $$ by having to trade it in for a 4X4.
BTW, the driveway is semi-rough-poured cement.
Thanks for any and all advice (and if you want to purchase a brand new 4X2 Ranger, LMK )
Fedforest, I live in Oregon and use Chevron gas almost exclusively. I'm going to try Arco now and see if that helps. Thanks for the suggestion.
The KL idea might be somewhat helpful, but, in my opinion, it is not a permanent solution and hardly a substitute for good quality tires with good braking and traction control.
I'd stay with a 98 or newer. I believe that's when they changed the way the front of the frame was constructed. Seem to remember it's 300% stiffer than before the change. If you take care of the routine maintenance Rangers seem to go a long time. I put 175K on a 90 and have a 01 4.0 supercab now. Remember and see previous posts, 3.0s ping on regular gas, 4.0s are thirsty. They also depreciate very fast to 50% of new, it might be a good idea to check for the aluminum drive shaft on late 00,01s as they are a fix for driveline vibration. So shop around and don't wag you tail when you see one you like.... good luck
Goldranger
The back of a pickup truck is just to light. Until I did that my truck (4 cyl) sometimes would scare the hell out of me.