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The best price am I finding is Edmunds invoice +
S/E Admin Fee (~$550) + Doc Fee(~ $300). Did you
pay all these fees or did you pay invoice + 2% dealer hold back + No Doc fees? Thanks
I appreciate the big clue.
V6 will increase to 3.7 liter.
In 2005: the redesign year;
extended cab long-bed
crew cabs
duallys
3/4 and 1 tons with solid front suspension
a diesel
V8 with a manual
Preparation for 2005:
Explain to toyota salesman what a dually is used for or any heavy duty for that matter.
Explain what towing restrictions mean.
Teach service department how to work on such a truck.
Build separate facilities just for trucks at the dealerships.
But to need to "Explain to Toyota salesman what a dually is used for or any heavy duty for that matter"......... that's pathetic!
You talking out the Tundra or the salespeople? (hehe)
Quad bought a '99 Silverado and has unloaded it in already. Could it be that he was just trying to get out from under the lemon? Could it be that he really didn't know what he needed? Could it be that the saleperson told him what he needed?
I think it is sad that certain Chev lemon owners feel the need to post insults to a Tundra Owners topic. When they get their feelings hurt, they resort to name calling. Maybe someday they will get through puberty. We can all hope.
My Tundra has been flawless for the last two years. It is by far the highest quality, most reliable, most capable 1/2 ton pickup.
You're right, those Tundras are junk with their bad lampholders!
The trailer wiring harness applies only to early Tundras with tow packages. Since I have yet to get a trailer - I have not had this implemented on my truck. Guess I will have to do it some day before I tow a trailer.
By flawless I mean no trips to the shop. Since you and Obywannatundra have both owned Chev lemons, I know this is hard for you guys to comprehend.
Sort of makes you feel really good about your purchases, and a bit sympathetic for those that expected to buy a flawless new truck but unfortunately got a lemon.
Here are some of the latest truck sales figures:
http://www.autosite.com/editoria/asmr/svolpu.asp
-David
2001 Silverado 1500 Ext-cab, Z-71 owner.
Hey Bama-My 2001 Silverado; 12600mi with nary even a slight problem, rattle or complaint (and I have a few thousand towing miles on my Chevy)! Too bad alot of the Tundra faithful over @ Tundrasolutions.com can't say that!!
You have to take in consideration the numbers of trucks produced also. Seems to be a big gap between some of the manufacturers
I used to ride dirt bikes near Palos Verdes Peninsula. Those were the days.
I have owned my Tundra 2 years. Here is my review:
1. The first thing I noticed was how quiet the truck is. I hear almost no wind or road noise. The 32valve DOHC V8 can barely be detected running at idle. There is no noise insulation under the hood(unlike the Chev which sounds like a diesel even with insulation).
2. The ride has to be experienced. Let's just say that Truck Trend was fighting over the keys. They stayed away from the Chev they were comparing to in droves. They even wrote that the Chev's ride caused their backs to hurt.
3. Toyota's legendary reliability. Winner of J.D. Power initial quality award in both 2000 and 2001. My bet is that they will win '02 also. Add 40% more powertrain warranty than the weak2 and you have an unbeatable combination. The Tundra had been rated a "recommended buy" by Consumer Reports since its inception in 2000. The '99 Chev is rated a used vehicle to avoid. Every Chev since is not recommended and has "Much worse than average" reliability. Makes you wonder if GM will ever get its act together.
4. While the Tundra doesn't have as much rear seat legroom as the Weak2, it has more front seat legroom. The Chev has been described by Edmund's as having "Toyota Corolla footspace" in the front. I felt cramped in the Chev I test drove.
5. Truck Trend preferred the Tundra over the Chev when towing a 5500 lb load. The Chev got 3mpg less mileage while losing. Where's the beef?
6. The Tundra stops quicker than the Weak2 by a large margin. Load the Tundra with 1350lb and it STILL outbrakes the Chev.
7. The Tundra is a much more capable off-road vehicle. The Chev has 3" less ground clearance, a longer wheelbase and a much larger turning radius - this makes the Chev very weak off-road. Of course, most Chev owners never off road their trucks anyway.
All in all - the Tundra is the best truck (and vehicle) I have ever owned. It has far exceeded all of my expectations.
My father in law has a farm. He has a beater truck that is at least 20 years old ( and worth less than $1K to work his farm. He doesn't want to damage or wear out his daily driver. I think he is typical. Not many farmers want to destroy a new $30K pickup on a farm.
There are quite a few guys with newer trucks working them on the farm, plowing snow etc. A truck is meant for work not just show. THats why the majority of people buy them
The majority of people Including Shakerrrrado owners seldom (Let's say less than 5% of the time) work their trucks - Right?
Do you see the distinction?
If you disagree - tell me the percentage of the time the typical Chev owner "works" their truck.
I've worked on cars for quite some time. It wasn't until I was shop foreman at the college rebuilding engines that I was able to see the American vs. foreign difference. Over 2 years time and several engines torn apart, I realized just how cleaner the inside of Toyota and Nissan engines were. The American parts seemed to have more residue and heat discoloration / wear on the bearings and pistons, as well as other areas. I think this is part of the reason that foreign engines run smoother and quieter.
One final note. All of our ambulances are Ford's. I realize that its unfair to compare an emergency vehicle which has hard miles on it to anything else. I will say this though. We average 1-2 rigs broke down each day and usually 2-3 times a week, one comes back on a tow truck. They all rattle and smoke and shake like a Cadillac full of diesel. In Ford's defense, we do have quite a few of them that are over 100,000 miles. Not necessarily with factory parts but nonetheless theyre still running.
Tundra V8 Ltd 4x4
Problems:
Arrogant Toyota dealers rip you off
Poor after sales service (deny problems)
Vibration from front end
Rough gear shift
Vague handling on bends
Rust spots where paint chipped
Rust on underside
Pieces of interior trim fall off
Center console latch broken
Front windows rattle in wind
Gas guzzler
Looks like they got them same troubles them hi-lux ones had. All them hi-lux ones is rusted up and gone for sure. What say, any other ones rustin up now? So much for them Consumer Report tells folks been braggin on. Good luck on this one now!
4 x 4, Tow Package up to 5,000 LBS., Convenience package, All Weather Package, Limited Slip Differential, etc. I do plan to do some towing, either a 2500 lb boat or a trailer that weighs under 4000lbs. Does the ABS feature impact on towing at all?
I need some FEEDBACK ON ABS brakes! Is this a desirable feature and what is the maintenance/reliability of the ABS. Am I better off without it?
Pickup trucks need ABS more than passenger vehicles in my opinion. This is because pickups can vary hugely in weight. There is much different braking requirements in a empty truck than a truck loaded to the max. While brake proportioning valves help this problem - I think that ABS does a better job overall.
I live in a very wet climate and ABS works great on wet roads. You just have to remember to tromp on them and let the brake system do the rest. You will be amazed at how short and perfectly straight the Tundra will stop with ABS.
#189 of 189 personally, by ndahi12 Nov 19, 2001 (08:13 pm)
I would go w/o ABS. I like to modulate my own brakes. I never liked ABS and I race cars for a hobby.
Also if you do not intend to go off road, then do not get a 4X4. Get a 4X2 with a limited slip. That is what I did and I need my truck for towing once a month and as a daily driver.
The more complicated the truck becmomes the more stuff will breka on it. That is why I did not get the ABS and the 4X4. Why do I need more options that I do not use (4X4) and have not proved their effectivness (ABS)
GOOD LUCK ON THIS ONE NOW!!!!
But what's the replacement dipstick for? I haven't checked the NHTSB website yet.
Jeff
Jeff
Speedometer accuracy
Contaminated R134a A/C Systems
Squeak Noise in Steering Column
Engine Bearing Knock Noise
Settlement of Lawsuit on Batteries (CA Proposition # 65)
Real good.
Some Chevy trucks may not be bad at all, but my personal experience with 93' S10 that I drove for 1.5 years terrifies me. $500/mechanic trip, things falling off inside the cabin (small things, but nevertheless, and AC going out once in 2 years, starter, fuel pump, distributor cap went bad after 1 year, fuel injector unit). Got to the point when there was piston knock from the engine, and water from the exaust all the time. Thats a 93' Chevy....my 1987 Plymouth did not do that when it was 12 years old.
You are WRONG. 2/3 of the people buy trucks as a regular means of transportation and they do not do heavy work with them. These are the facts.
I noticed on mine that after an oil change, the dipstick read lower than I would have expected, but still above the "add" mark. Following the book on the amounts to add, you wouldn't have any problem.
I can't tell you about shift clunking - I guess the sound/feel of mine is "normal" when I shift. Do you have access to any other Tundras you can check to see if they do the same thing? Maybe you should insist at the dealer - have him "prove" the clunk you're getting is the same with others. That's what I'd do.
I know...I know.... you shouldn't have to fix it yourself, but at least you'll know that the work was done right. If I remember correctly, it didn't seem all that involved.
hth
http://www.gm-trucks.com/techcenter/2001/bulletins/92-265-7A.html