I took pics of my pics (does that sound right???) tonight of the scratch i had in my truck that caused $750 damage. Its not the best but i thought id add it.
Did you see it? I took a pic of a pic. that was a kodak photo of the scratch i took a pic with my digital camera. Not the best of quality sorry. YOu get the idea though
My truck drives really good again with the new intermediate shaft. Have 32,000 miles now. Dashboard still really tight, no rattles anywhere. I do have to oil those leaf spring shackles or they squeak. Aerosol lithium grease works best. Love it when it drives like this.
I am about to order Zaino -- the whole set, probably including the leather care stuff too. I am just curious, since I've read a ton of positive posts here and elsewhere ... is there ANYONE who has used Zaino and didn't like the results
I don't get ANY air flow through the vents when the fan is off. The manual says the system switches to recirc when the fan is turned off to prevent just that. Maybe this function doesn't work on many trucks? Or maybe they changed it. Also my a/c doesn't come on in recirc mode. Mike showed me the symptom on his new truck and sure enough, cold air. How stupid does GM think we are that we can't decide when the a/c should be on?
Early 2000 2500.
P.S. Mike, you say your 99 does the same thing? That is really wierd because mine was built between both of yours and it doesn't do it.
Tell me about the rear leaf spring squeak and the fix. Mine has developed a "chirp" when I accelerate sharply from a stop and sometimes when the rear end goes over a bump like a driveway. Do you use the spray grease on just the shackles or between the leaves too? Have you ever tried WD40? Since I have that I'd like to try it for diagnosis even if it doesn't hold up as long as the grease.
Got the truck back from the dealer yesterday. They kept it 2 days to change the radio (3rd one) because the transmission won't work with the radio removed. Crazy. They replaced the entire rear slider because of the cracked frame. The new one is just fine, I'm glad I had them do it. Now if only it doesn't crack. The window motor was loose and rattled when the door was closed with the window down. Thanks to the GM Lemon Truck website I had the TSB# for the advisor. I only got one "that is normal" diagnosis, for the rear differential oil seepage. Not bad. I was tempted to complain about the idle but thought I wouldn't push my luck for now.
there was a time when I didn't like the results of the Z5 and Z2. After using Zymol, you get used to wiping the polish off before it dries. Unfortunately, the results are not the same with Zaino using the same technique. You have to let it completely dry which was my mistake the first time I used it. Since then, I've read the directions...
I had a similar squeak/rattle issue. Only squeaked at low speeds over bumps. The dealer ended up realinging the bed because it was rubbing (on the frame I guess). Don't really know the details of what they did. But, it worked!!
I just use my right foot every now and then! Wouldn't think anyone would with a Silverado would be in need of injector cleaner anytime soon! If the truck is getting to be 15 years old, it might help. Are you having any hesitation or rough idle issues?
same thing for me. last two times...i've let it dry for a couple hours. had two neighbors knock on my door to make sure i wasn't off my rocker. once it's dry...it's easy to take off and looks great.
Thank both of you for your information. It seems that you both used two different methods at getting the switch to work. Careyace or blackmax200, do you remember which prongs went to which functions? Do y'all think that it would be easier to just figure out which prongs go to what and solder them or do you think that it would be better to buy all of the correct parts? From what I remembered at looking at the prices of some of the wiring harnesses and stuff it looked like piecing it together was pretty expensive. Blackmax200, how much was the price for all of the parts? Where did the power lead eventually come out at? Under the hood, etc? The guy at the parts dep. ran my vin # and he said that I did not have the correct equipment in my truck for the harnesses to hook up to, although I am not sure that he knew what he was talking about. Blackmax200, do you know for sure that all of the trucks have the plugins that you were talking about? If I do not have the plugins, it would seem that careyace's method would be the best way to go. Again, thank y'all for your help. Oh yeah, out of curiosity, what do both of you have hooked to your switches?
For me, they replace both leaf springs to get rid of the squeek. It worked. I hope its not an annual visit though.
The springs were so compressed that they were riding on the bumper pads of the lower leaf, and would grind at take off. On the new ones, the bumper pads don't even come close to the upper leaf now. Truck sits higher too.
Just greased my '00 4wd ex cab sb, appreciate the detailed info from this site. the pics were excellent ! will be installing the 90 degree zerk next time. I now have 21 k miles, and no problems to date- thanks for the help- tom
today while I was running around. According to the brochure, LT models come with OnStar and Auto Climate Control. I also saw the new "tan" or "neutral" color interior. Massive improvement over the "pumpkin orange" medium oak. Neutral leather looks great... like a Lexus or something. Hmmm. Now if GM will just buy back my shaker, I might be persuaded to try a black LT with neutral leather. But only with a 24-hour guarantee. I figure I'll drive down to Ft. Worth (about 500 miles round trip) and have lunch with my cousin. That way I'll put enough miles on it in one day that maybe I won't have to wonder if I have a shaker. Definitely do not want to go through this mess again.
Anyone have links to some pictures of your truck with rocker panels preferably 99-2000 GMC Sierra, but silverado would be nice too. I just had some installed, since I have the fender flares they said the could only get the 7 1/2" instead of the 9 1/2" panels, so I have a 2" gap between the panels and the chrome molding. It looks ok, but I want to know if the larger ones were available and what they would look like. Thanks, Randy
I have put up with the spark knock in my 2000 LS for about 4500 miles. My first wish is that I never bought it because the dealers can't hear the noise and the outside mechanic shops can't fix it. If I sell it...lose 4K. If I don't....lose mind! Has anyone heard of some ways to decrease the knock that are proven?
I think it would be easier to figure out witch pins go where using a multimeter and some trial and error and for a lot less $$$$$. The switches I used were from the previous body style with the dash from 1995-1999 and it went in the dash right above the push button 4wd. The switch I had has five pins.If you look at the back of the switch at the pins,mine had two rows of pins.I'll try to type out a diagram. 1 2 3 4 5 (1)was for the power indicator light on the switch. (2)was the ground. (3)was to back light the switch(I tied into the dash lights so the back light would dim with the dash lights). (4)was from the battery or your power source. (5)was for your light you want to operate.
And then where ever you run your wire just put it in some of the wire loom(the plastic tube with a slit) that you can buy.It looks better,And don't forget to put in an in line fuse.
I'm guessing that your switch will be different than mine though but I sure hope this helps.
I don't have anything on mine just yet but I will be putting on some sort of strobe light when I get a snow plow maybe next winter.
Injector cleaner has not been needed since sometime in the 1980s. New injectors are self cleaning, especially when combined with the new cleaner fuels. I doubt the dealers even do anything when they get the big bucks for the service.
Andrew, you do have a point about the expense, in that I spent 4X what it cost in parts doing the research...but I am real anal and wanted to utilize the existing wiring taps for power and ground so I didn't screw up the computer(s) wiring. Besides I like the wiring to look neat under the dash. If some GM tech had to get under there to do wiring under warranty, I didn't want a fight on my hands.
What really burns me is that aside from the snow plow prep package, I know of a few volunter fireman that would like to have the wiring there so all they have to do is drill and plug in. GM will not put this option in a 1/2 Xcab but will in a 1/2 std. cab and 3/4 Xcab...go figure?
Anyway the pin-out for the switch, which is where I think, this all started is as follows: Top __ F A __| E B D C
A is unused
B is ground for the internal lamp and LED below powered by connectors D and E.
C is power out through the main switch for the relay coil.
D is power in from the dimmer to control the "Aux Lamp" light on the switch bezel
E is power in to light the indicator LED to let you know that whatever you have powered up is on... LOL
F is B+ power, that should be fused, to the main switch that goes through to connector C and on to the relay.
I broke down and bought a set of PIAA 980 dual driving/fog lights. They are small enough to fit in where the stock foglights fit.
Well, they are installed and working. Took a couple of hours to fabricate brackets to mount them, a couple of hours more to wade through the wiring diagrams and decide on how to wire them (I wanted to use existing, unused wires through the firewall), a couple of hours more to actually do the wiring. In other words, the whole day.
The foglight portion works through the factory foglight switch. I added a switch for the driving lights in the small pocket where the autotrac switches would be if I had them. I had to fabricate a small metal panel to fit in that spot and hold the switch and an LED (to tell me when the driving lights are on). The driving lights only come on when the high beams are on.
Since I have the relay that has high and low beams come on at the same time, I now have Hi Beams, Low Beams and Driving Lights at the same time. If I can't see at night, I better get new glasses.
how many of you guys park you truck outside? I started college in late august and have left my truck at home in the garage. I hate not having it, so I was thinking of taking it this week. just curious. Nick
got anything to do with the elements, but rather the jealous idiots that have nothing better to do than to walk by and scratch a perfectly good TRUCK. but then again i live in calif. where there are alot of zaney people running around. LOL
Today at work a guy came in with a F150 supercrew for a bunch of bricks. I was like your gonna take it all they said yep so i didnt argue. 420 holland pavers appx 7lbs each. Loaded all of em on a pallet and threw it on his truck pallet barely fit. Truck held it but that bed isnt made for hauling. Pallet goes in push it forward maybe 5inches and its against the cab. Truck sagged very bad rear end down to the ground. From what i have seen if you plan on doing alot of materials hauling the F150 crewcab isnt for you. I couldnt beleive how small the bed was. Nice truck but its a people mover.
I got the other cars out and too much crap to fit in the front side of garage....winter it all goes in the back section and I park indoors.....I hate scraping snow and Ice man.......when's the ado gonna get one of them instant de-icer buttons?
Southwall technologies (SWTX) is working on a laminate in the winshield that will give rapid de-icing. Maybe GM would contract them and we would see it in the Silverados.
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Comments
http://www.picturetrail.com/ryanbab
its the last 2
Ryan
LOL
.....drink AFTER you take pics boss......after!
hehehee
- Tim
Ryan
Album of repairs??? No no
LOL
- Tim
I think my black (on black) LT will like it.
Richard
Early 2000 2500.
P.S. Mike, you say your 99 does the same thing? That is really wierd because mine was built between both of yours and it doesn't do it.
Ryan
Its a bad pic i know sorry
Kevin
Ryan
Kevin
bco
The springs were so compressed that they were riding on the bumper pads of the lower leaf, and would grind at take off. On the new ones, the bumper pads don't even come close to the upper leaf now. Truck sits higher too.
John
goto: www.picturetrail.com/kwerking
and look at the "action photos" album, pics 3&4. that's the best i've seen...
richard...think you're black on black will benefit from that???
bco
Mike L
now if we could just get the EPA to put a ban on
those yard blowers.
...red
bco
GRRRRR
Good thing both are not black!.....DOHHHH!
- Tim
Thanks,
Randy
The switches I used were from the previous body style with the dash from 1995-1999 and it went in the dash right above the push button 4wd.
The switch I had has five pins.If you look at the back of the switch at the pins,mine had two rows of pins.I'll try to type out a diagram.
1 2 3
4 5
(1)was for the power indicator light on the switch.
(2)was the ground.
(3)was to back light the switch(I tied into the dash lights so the back light would dim with the dash lights).
(4)was from the battery or your power source.
(5)was for your light you want to operate.
And then where ever you run your wire just put it in some of the wire loom(the plastic tube with a slit) that you can buy.It looks better,And don't forget to put in an in line fuse.
I'm guessing that your switch will be different than mine though but I sure hope this helps.
I don't have anything on mine just yet but I will be putting on some sort of strobe light when I get a snow plow maybe next winter.
Andrew
bco: nice pictures!
What really burns me is that aside from the snow plow prep package, I know of a few volunter fireman that would like to have the wiring there so all they have to do is drill and plug in. GM will not put this option in a 1/2 Xcab but will in a 1/2 std. cab and 3/4 Xcab...go figure?
Anyway the pin-out for the switch, which is where I think, this all started is as follows:
Top __
F A __|
E B
D C
A is unused
B is ground for the internal lamp and LED below powered by connectors D and E.
C is power out through the main switch for the relay coil.
D is power in from the dimmer to control the "Aux Lamp" light on the switch bezel
E is power in to light the indicator LED to let you know that whatever you have powered up is on... LOL
F is B+ power, that should be fused, to the main switch that goes through to connector C and on to the relay.
Hope this helps
Matthew
That's for Tim
Darn right!
- Tim
Well, they are installed and working. Took a couple of hours to fabricate brackets to mount them, a couple of hours more to wade through the wiring diagrams and decide on how to wire them (I wanted to use existing, unused wires through the firewall), a couple of hours more to actually do the wiring. In other words, the whole day.
The foglight portion works through the factory foglight switch. I added a switch for the driving lights in the small pocket where the autotrac switches would be if I had them. I had to fabricate a small metal panel to fit in that spot and hold the switch and an LED (to tell me when the driving lights are on). The driving lights only come on when the high beams are on.
Since I have the relay that has high and low beams come on at the same time, I now have Hi Beams, Low Beams and Driving Lights at the same time. If I can't see at night, I better get new glasses.
See pictures of the dual PIAAs at:
http://community.webshots.com/user/mledtje
Anybody want to buy a factory foglight? I have both the right and the left available - $25 each.
Mike L
Ryan
Nick
- Tim
the jealous idiots that have nothing better to do
than to walk by and scratch a perfectly good
TRUCK. but then again i live in calif. where
there are alot of zaney people running around.
LOL
Ryan
Dean
We make the zany people stay out of the area.
Richard
- Tim
this topic is being "frozen." Please continue these discussions in Topic 2310, Chevy Silverado - Continued XVI. Thanks!
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