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Carburetor Problems On Older Cars
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You should/could also do a simple compression test. An easy way to do basic timing in a rough kind of way would be to remove #1 spark plug, hold your finger over the hole and when you feel compression pushing your finger out, the rotor should be pointed to #1 cylinder.
You have a chain I believe, not a timing belt, which can jump time.
Am wondering if the lack of auxiliary jet supplying gas is the cause of the vehicle not getting enough gas when driven over 25 mph? At what point should the auxiliary jet do it's job?
Am I overlooking something else?
Thanks, Casey
2 135
3 140
4 135
5 135
6 140
Timing is right on as well..............so here we have a 6 cylinder that runs rough at idle while having black exhaust.........new carb.....new spark plugs....new rotor......new wires..........new points........clean fuel..........using 100LL fuel just to make sure...........timing good.........compression good.............pulled valve cover and checked for stuck valve...........everything fine...........i guess the next step is to pull the intake manifold and see whats going on there...............checked for leaks on intake manifold and found none.............maybe someone left a sock in the intake manifold.........im out of answers....................
thanks for any advice -LIG, Atlanta Georgia
Here are my guesses: 1) moisture from gas tank interfered with choke plate (ice?); 2) dirt or debris from bottom of gas tank (I was nearly empty yesterday morning) got into carb. I am being more careful now!!! Thanks
Thanks
at the auto choke is nil and the idle is very low.When it heats up it is fine.
If I put a direct vacumn line from the air cleaner to the choke the idle is good when cold but when the engine heats up the choke does not disengage and the motor
idle races. Does anyone know what I can do?
thanks
ed
Toms
I had a problem w\oil residue on the ignition coil,
shorting it out,causing poor performance.
I cleaned the top of the coil w\gumout spray then a
shot of break cleaner,to remove residue left from
the gumout.checked wire connections on coil also.
this solved the problem.
Toms
When you open the throttle, the power piston squirts a little gas into the venturi. When the throttle opens, the air flow increases faster that the 'ususal' flow of gasoline can increase. This leans out the mixture, and the car will stumble, stall. The gas squirted in via the power piston richens the mixture and corrects this problem.
Did they just 'swap' another old carb to correct the idle problem? If so, they swapped an idle problem for a power problem.
Overall, the carb should be opened up and rebuilt. Many times you cannot buy just a power piston, you will have to buy a whole rebuild kit, which includes a new power piston. So, just rebuild the entire carb.
Or by a NOS new carb from a Mustang vendor...don't screw around with rebuilds is my advice.
Here'a website if you are curious---at least you can get an idea:
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/carbs_acc/carbs_access_main.shtml
Best thing would be to get a copy of Hemmings Motor News and browse the Mustang Parts section. (www.hemmings.com).
If it's a real early '65 it could have come with a 260 engine.
Read All About It Here: http://asashop.org/autoinc/may/TECH2TEC.HTM
The car runs better...but I noticed when I was tweaking the mixture that when I goosed the accelerator(quickly), some fuel would spray out of the primaries.
Is the float out of adjustment?
No, that's exactly how they correctly work. There is a rod and valve system called the 'power valve' that squirts fuel like that. If it is not working correctly, the car will stumble and stall when you attempt to quickly accelerate.
Well, it does hesitate a little. Are you sayig that raw fuel is supposed to come out of the carb? The fuel spray hits the choke plate, then squirts up and out of the carb.
About a year ago, I pulled the carburetor off my old '78 LTD's 400 engine, bought one of those O-Rielly's rebuild kits and went to work. At first, the exploded-view drawing looked like plans to the starship Enterprise, until I started taking things apart and looking at how it fit together. Took it apart to the last nut and bolt, soaked everything in gasoline for a couple of weeks, and put it all back together with all the new parts in the kit (Made lots of photos along the way. Anyone working on cars needs to invest in a digital camera!) Set all the adjustable stuff to the generic, baseline 1-1/2 turn locations, and bolted that puppy back to the top of the engine. Hit the starter and---nothing. Poured a half a cup of gasoline down the carb, (don't try this at home, kids!), and hit the starter again. Engine cranks, flames shoot out the carb, engine sputters, then dies. Pour a little more gas in, hit the starter, engine sputters, then sputters some more, then finally revs up to full idle. After that, it ran better than it did before I worked on the carb, so I've never been brave enough to mess with the fine tuning.
The right way to do it is to crank the engine for awhile to get fuel into the bowl. Then pump the accelerator by hand while watching for the accelerator pump to squirt fuel into the carburetor. If it does it's ready to start. If it doesn't crank it some more and check it again.