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Questions about Fuel Systems
Mr_Shiftright
Member Posts: 64,481
in General
This forum is a "catch-all" for any questions about Fuel Systems on any car. This would include things like fuel leaks, injector problems, fuel pumps and relays, types of gasoline, additives, fuel filters, etc. It's about WHAT THE FUEL ACTUALLY TOUCHES, okay?
This forum is NOT about engine management systems, like computers, throttle bodies, air filters, sensors, etc.
This forum is NOT about engine management systems, like computers, throttle bodies, air filters, sensors, etc.
0
Comments
Is it common for these filter fittings to leak? What can I do to prevent it? I can't believe it to be the normal way to indicate it's time to replace the filter. Any GM recall on this topic?
This brings up several questions:
1. What is the filter material in the current Civic SI's and why is it impervious to all contamination in gasoline and incapable of a pressure drop?
2.. How can something actually be filtered if it doesn't require maintenance (i.e. it would seem that a screen mesh would have a pore size too large to be effective)?
As a sidenote, the person who owned the Tacoma hit 80,000 miles and went to the dealership (complained of sluggishness) and asked for the filter to be changed. The dealer insisted that it wasn't the filter without any checking. After 20 minutes of arguing, the dealer finally conceded and changed the filter (sluggishness went away). Is there some type of conspiracy here by Honda and Toyota to complicate fuel problems?
If you experience other than "normal use"; off highway, questionable sources of fuel, etc; then you may want to change it for peace of mind. In my own opinion it probably good advice to change it out at 100K miles, which is when major service is recomended for most models today.
Thanks,
Jay
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/15/fd/fa/09- 00823d8015fdfa.jsp
-David
Plug wires, air filter, PCV valve, fuel filter.
"Should the injectors be removed and cleaned?"
No.
"as well as O2 sensors?"
No. Oxygen sensors will gradually deteriorate, and when they do they'll tend to slow down their response to changes in exhaust gas oxygen content. The proper way to check an O2 sensor is to monitor it's activity on a scan tool, watching for swings between low and high voltage output.
Is that a good thing or bad thing?
And, what kind of scan tool? Thanks alcan.
-David
Scan tools display data stream, the actual signals being received by the engine computer from all input sensors, and can range from Actron's $300 CP9135 to Snap-on's $5000+ MT2500.
you can also use thin wires slid into the connector to bring the signals out to a general-duty oscilloscope.
No restrictions in the intake? collapsed hose and that sort.
Another common cause of that symptom is a clogged cat.
-mike
What kind of problem are you having?
The only way to confirm if the fuel pump is having a problem is to check the fuel pressure and see what it is.
Or, if it is making unbearable noise.
But before replacing the pump, the fuel filter should be changed if it has been a very long time since it was replaced.
Is it coming from the engine compartment or the rear of the vehicle.
If it isn't coming from the rear of the vehicle, in the area of the fuel cap, then it isn't the fuel pump.
If it is a whistling noise in the engine compartment, then it could be a belt or pully.
Hard to say.
yep, the tank would have to be dropped.
Honestly though, if it is a whistling noise, I seriously doubt it is the fuel pump.
I Can't hear the noise, so I could be wrong.
Yep, pretty much.
The new engines aren't as forgiving as the older diesels.
I wouldn't run kerosene.
I would imagine you'd destroy your injection pump using kerosene, which has no lubricating properties whatsoever----diesel fuel does.
I think you've been misinformed. Some people have added small amounts of kerosene to diesel fuel in brutal winter conditions (the Russians did this to their tanks in WW II, before the Germans copied the idea) but those were primitive older diesels.
Modern diesel engine are pretty fussy as to what you put into them.
So, in short---don't even THINK about doing this.
I need some help. I have a 2001 Chevy 3500 van with a 5.7 v-8 engine. When I turn the key to start, the starter works and the motor runs. As soon as I let the key go, the motor dies. Happens everytime. Any ideas?
Ed
My E-mail is ebaliban@comcast.net