Ed, my camera is an Olympus D360L. It's a decent lower end model, 1.3 mega pixel, $299 full retail but available cheaper. The web photos are size reduced 50% and compressed (jpg) to reduce the load time for my disadvantaged modem-using friends (go cable modems!) so the real pics actually look a bit better.
Those stories were a little troubling. I noticed that none of the problem stories included the spring-loaded Happijac turnbuckles. Still it would be an improvement if those came with a positive closure device.
One note for you Happijac users. Don't overtighten the front turnbuckles or you may get sheetmetal damage some day. The front tiedowns aren't as strong as they could be and can be bent back until they damage the bed. This happened to me once. I've since learned that the turnbuckles should only be tightened just a little beyond the point that the spring starts to compress. Let the spring provide the holding force.
Also, the turnbuckles should be installed with the threaded end UP to prevent water from entering through the open end. They do rust inside after a while.
You ever watch the old Roseanne show? For a while she had a 'loose-meat' sandwich shop. That's a Maid-Rite.
They take hamburger, season it, and steam the meat to cook it. I guess most of the fat melts off, and it still tastes great. I've never been able to duplicate it at home.
So, when in Iowa, eat Maid-Rites.
For anyone who hasn't picked up on it, Vince and his large size camper went virtually everywhere I went with my pop up camper. In places he was a little slower. Other places (washboard roads) he was a little faster. Probably suspension dynamics and his Edelblock shocks.
I am in the process of purchasing an all fiberglass (Northern-Lite) truck camper. It's the smallest they make. Sitting on a bed mat it would clear the back of the cab by about 1/2" and then progressively increases to about an 1" as the cab slopes to the windshield. I will be using Torque-Lift tie-downs.
Can anyone suggest how much more space I need, if any? I am concerned about the camper flexing and contacting the top of the cab. The overhead part is 53" in length. Any advice?
I got away with the full size camper because we were in the desert--not too many low trees. But I can still hear the branches going SCREEEEECH along both sides of the camper and truck. I haven't washed the camper yet so don't know the extent of damage. The truck is fine. I know the new, white, camper jacks have a different look now.
You definitely need more clearance. In normal driving may be fine but when you make a mistake or have an emergency, you'd be amazed how much that camper can move around.
What kind of truck do you have? A Ford SD by any chance? People put wood platforms in those. A camper installation place could sell you one.
Just got back from a large camper show. First non-camping overnight stay in a long time. Sure missed not having my own bed along. I had forgotten how much I didn't like motels. We came real close to buying a Class A. Who would have thought there would not be a good place to put the Cat's litter box in a $289,000 motor home!!! (Right) There were no truck campers in the show but some really nice 5th wheel's and tag-alongs.
Just got back from a large camper show. First non-camping overnight stay in a long time. Sure missed not having my own bed along. I had forgotten how much I didn't like motels. We came real close to buying a Class A. Who would have thought there would not be a good place to put the Cat's litter box in a $289,000 motor home!!! (Right) There were no truck campers in the show but some really nice 5th wheel's and tag-alongs. We really liked the K-Z 2101QS. 21 ft. with rear slide out that has a queen size bed in the slide. About 5000lb wet. Not bad at about $16,000 with options.
are you, a camper owner, telling us you almost bought a $289k class A? If so then I think you're keeping the wrong company here. I've looked at those rigs in the show, what a way to travel. Was it a Safari? For serious long-haul road trips I think the ultimate setup is a nice class A diesel pusher towing a small 4x4. I don't know if I could be a full timer or not; how would I survive without a garage?
Vince has a pair of Cobra walkie-talkies. When we travel, the lead truck has one and the last truck has the other. The middle truck just kind of has to go along. These things are relatively inexpensive, but work quite well. We've also used them when hiking out of site of each other. They could even be very handy at large stores or swap meets, etc. 14 channels to keep other's from crashing into your conversations. 2 mile range.
Anyway, I bought another pair similar to Vince's (also a Cobra brand) and they should be able to talk to the one's Vince has. Fry's has them on sale for 39.95 a pair. With a $10 rebate coupon they come down to 29.95 (although the coupon they gave us was for a different Cobra set, there may not be a rebate for these).
I'm going to make a cigarette lighter adaptor for one, so the base unit won't need to use the 4 AAA batteries. The batteries seem to last a long time. I don't remember changing batteries the whole time we were in Death Valley.
At first, they seemed like a bit too much - but these little things are quite useful. It's very nice to be able to discuss which turn-off, which restaurant, etc. while you are still driving and looking. I could even ask Vince if my vents on top of the camper where closed. Beats having to stop and check or discuss options.
We bought the FRS 110-2 which is listed at $69.95 a pair. No rebate listed, but the rebate coupon we got is listed - Fry's must have screwed up the ad.
There were seven of us on a trip to Idaho last fall. We each had one of those FRS radios. It's surprising how far those things can transmit. The range is much farther than 2 miles if the conditions are good. Two of the hunters had been chasing a deer and were stuck on a mountain when it got dark They were above 9000', the rest of us were in camp at 6400'(we also had a couple of GPS' so we knew the elevations), at least 5 miles away, and we heard them with no problem. They couldn't hear our standard radios, but one of the guys had an enhanced FRS with a range of 5+ miles; he was able to talk to the hunters and made arrangements to pick them up when they got off the mountain.
Those radios are worth the money.
GPS are also pretty cool. The hunters had shot the deer they were chasing, but it was too dark to bring it off the mountain, so they hung it in a tree, and marked the location on their GPS. The next day they backtracked the GPS settings right to the spot. It had been so dark coming down they couldn't note any landmarks and would have had a tough time finding the location. Unfortunately for them, a bear found the deer in the night, pulled it out of the tree, and had a good meal. Then some coyotes piled on. I thought it was amusing and told the hunters they weren't supposed to feed the wild animals, but I had to shut up - they were threatening to hang me in the tree. I think they were serious.
#1 of 1 A question for all camping owners by tundradude Jan 15, 2001 (05:25 pm)
I would like to hear if anyone could share their ownership experiences of having owned an ultralite camping trailer. I would also like to hear if anyone has had a heavyweight and traded it for a longer lite or ultralite camping trailer. I am thinking about getting a bigger one, and the ultralite does offer more size for not much more weight than my 20 footer is currently. I know to keep weight down, their is not as much cabinet space and aluminum is used.
However, I would like to see any arguments either way if getting a heavyweight in a bigger size or equivalent size is worth getting a bigger engine or different truck to pull it.
Never had,nor would I own a light trailer. The light weight and price is the result of cheap materials and questionable manufacturing. My first trailer was a 22' Nash weighing in at 5500# wet and loaded. I pulled this with a 98' Chev 1/2 ton: 5.7,3:73 rear. I now own a 28' Arctic Fox (made by Nash), that weighs 9000# wet and loaded. I pull it with a 00' 3/4 Silverado: 6.0 4;10 rear. Whatever you decide I highly recommend this sight before making any RV purchase.www.rv.org There is a lot of helpfull info here. If you are serious about a new purchase get a full membership that comes with a rv rating book among many other things. It may be the best 100$ you ever spend.
I found those things to be very handy. Mike got to blaze the trail and find all the big holes, and then warn me about it before I got there so I didn't knock the camper off the truck, or maybe bounce the dog a few feet up in the air!
What brand is that enhanced 5 mile version? Carrying one of those while hiking is cheap insurance.
Mike, you got a great price. I've seen my model for $10 off at $59/set but never so cheap as yours. I guess that means yours don't have the sub-channels. Those are only $10 more in the Cobra line. It's worth it to avoid crosstalk in populated areas but not needed in the wilderness.
I too own a Nash ('96). Previous camper was a beater Winnebago Slide-in from the early 70's. I am sold on Nash/A.F. for heavy duty recreation use. Am considering a Lance 810 purchase for this summer, as there are times when I want to go a little more in the back country with just me and the dog and an occasional girlfriend.
We looked really hard at the lighter TT and the Hi/Lo models. Most of the fuel economy penalty is related to frontal area (aero drag) so lightening them up isn't as big an advantage as you might think. The negative on the Hi/Lo trailers is they fill up with dust and dirt when trailering them on dirt roads. Tundra Dude look at www.nashtraveltrailers.com.
Vince4 - The extended range radios I know of are Motorola TalkAbout Distance models (10 channels, 38 subchannels). They're listed in the Cabelas catalog for about $200. The Cobra Microtalk standard FRS radios can be purchased at Costco for $69 a pair. They have 14 channels and 38 subchannels.
Thanks for the rv.org site! I will look at the nash site here soon.
I currently own a 20 foot (length measure) 82 Terry Taurus. Its GVWR is 4500. I am assuming that I am carrying it wet around 3800. It has all the traits of a heavyweight. It has the big tires, lots of cabinets, big gas tanks, solid furniture, etc.
I am currently trying to decide to get a new Terry Dakota 29S. It's dry weight is 4085, its wet with options and without luggage is an assumed 4300. With luggage and groceries, it is 4700-4800. My trucks capacity is 5250 for the trailer and the GCWR is 9200.
If I have done my adding correctly, then 4750 for the trailer, 4000 for the truck with hitch and lite stuff in the bed, 300 for me and my wife totals 9050.
I know the truck will pull it all day long, but being close to the ax is the dilemma. Should I just get a V8 Tundra or get a used F-250 and be able to pull a much heavier trailer.
I have noticed that the heavier trailer is the same price then the Dakota lineup that I am looking at.
I much rather NOT have to buy another truck. I really do enjoy the V6 Tundra and it was much cheaper than its counterparts, and the money spent for the difference on the trucks could go fully to the camping trailer.
I know how good that 82 I currently own has held up. I want what ever I get to hold up for at least 10 years.
I need to add, I have no problem of getting a used truck if I had too, because a new Tundra v8 or a F250 are quite expensive.
The equivalent of the 29S is the 30S in the heavyweights. Its dryweight without options is 5200. Its wet is probably is around with options and luggage around 6000. Either the Tundra V8 or a F250 could handle that easily.
The GVWR on the 29S is 6500, and I believe for the 30S is 7500.
My dad pulls a 6000lb trailer with his 1500 Silverado. The 1500 is rated to pull a 7000 (3.42 ratio) or 8000lb (3.73 ratio) trailer. He has the 3.42 and has no problems with the 6000lb trailer.
He averages 20+ mpg empty and 10-12 with the trailer in tow.
I guess what I'm saying is that you don't need an F250 to pull that size trailer.
On the other side of the coin, larger equipment does not always equal a better camping experience. In fact, I think less is more for enjoying camping. So, if you are happy with your truck, maybe you should keep your camper and invest in some upgrades for less money than a new camper?
Kinda have to disagree with you a little, I have the 1500 4.8 with 4.10, run an equalizing hitch, and am disappointed with overall performance, stability wise, particularly at speed on the windy interstates of the west or in the big mountains of Colorado pulling my Nash which goes about 5000 lbs loaded.
The bigger camper would give me a chance to take more people along with my wife and I.
I do agree that some campers are a second home with all the luxuries. This is the way I feel about the 32 and up.
I also agree that my little trailer does make it special, however, there is ony room for one other person in my present trailer, unless their children.
I would just like to take my friends or family along.
A curious question, would the supercharger be a worthy modification?
I'm not sure why my dad has no problems pulling his 6000lb trailer with a 1500. He has a shell on the truck, maybe the aerodynamics make a difference? He runs the factory reciever, load equalizing hitch, 2wd, 5.3L, 3.42 gears, General P-series tires. But, it works for him.
Supercharger? Is this a factory setup? I'm always leary of aftermarket kits. When finally dialed in they work fine. But, getting it right can be tedious, and expensive. And you run the risk of destroying an engine if you get it too far wrong. I've done my share on modifying and building engines, and you can make some real improvements in specific aspects of the engines performance. But, for all around smooth operation, reliability, economy, and ability to repair it in the middle of Montana, it is very hard to beat a factory setup. Especially the new, fuel injected engines.
If you can do the mechanical work yourself, the costs go down. But who does the fine tuning, selecting jet or injector sizes, verifying tailpipe emissions, passing smog checks? It's a can of worms I don't want to open on a newer vehicle. Now on my 70 El Camino, hmmmmmmm.
I understand the 1500 suspension is on the soft side. Maybe you need some after market equipment to improve the stability. Like Bilstein shocks, sway control hitch (maybe you have that), helper springs, etc.
Of course my solution is always the same - get a 2500!
Boy can I make you a deal. I've got a great tow vehicle for sale right now. '87 GMC Jimmy all set up with equ hitch, brake controller, etc. Only 55k miles and $5500. Think of all the goodies you could buy with the savings!
Of course you would have to change your name to jimmydude.
Best solution for stability (for me) is the direction I'm headed, which is a 2500HD 6.0L CC LB. Should get it in a couple of months.
You know, I wasn't that bummed with my towing performance until two things happened. I drove back from TX to AZ at night on the interstate with two dirt bikes in the bed, with about a 25mph cross wind, after a race. The next weekend, we took my co-travel-trailer owner's F350 CC LB on a similiar type trip hauling 3 bikes and the trailer. I drove home after the race, and was amazed at the improved stability that the long wheelbase one ton offered. The 4.8L is plenty motor, but I have come to the right (or wrong) conclusion that for trailering, the tow vehicle should weigh close to what the towed object weighs.... And have a nice long wheelbase....
This is all based on the fact we run 75mph on the interstates and frequently travel over 10,000' passes on our race trips to Colorado.
Maybe if I towed a boat around back where I grew up in FL, I would be alot happier with a 5,000 to 7,000 lb thing being towed by a 4400 lb truck.
When I went to pick up my slide-in (if you'll excuse the pun), there was a bit of a backup getting off the freeway. Seems a Bronco had been towing a 22' to 25' travel-trailer and something went wrong. As I got even with the scene of the accident, the tow truck was just hooking up to the trailer, which was on its side. The state troopers and ambulance were over by the Bronco, which was on its roof. By coincidence, the accident occurred opposite the dealership I was buying my slide-in from (but the accident victim wasn't one of their customers). My salesman looked over at the scene and said "if they had bought it from us, we would have flat-out told that guy to use a longer-wheelbase vehicle for towing."
I have a 01 sierra 1/2 ton x-cab and would like to know what towing experience people have had. We are thinking of a trailer and I might end up pushing the limits on weight, at least according to the manuals. Mine is a 4.8 with 3:42 gears and 2 wheel drive. It has the tow package and I'm looking around 6-6500 lbs in a 26 foot camper.
I'm curious to know how thr truck handles on the road, preferably "before" i plunk down the bucks for the trailer.
As I stated earlier, my dad pulls a 6000lb trailer with his Silverado 5.3L 3.42 2wd Reg Cab Longbed without difficulty. He has been buying a new truck every year for many years and feels the new 5.3L has more power than any 350 he ever had. While he does tow at 55-60 mph (a reflection on his 78 years) he doesn't have to slow down for some awfull steep hills in NorthEastern Iowa.
The 4.8L obviously has less power and you may be slow on acceleration and hills. You would be a lot better off with a 4500lb trailer, IMHO. Talk to the dealership where you want to buy the trailer. Maybe they will have one you can take out for couple of days to test the towing ability of your truck. If you are a serious customer and will buy it if the towing is acceptable. That way, they can hook up the equalizing hitch, etc. and you get the chance to find out before you become an unhappy customer. It is worth checking into before you put down your money.
I was unhappy the stability of my 1500 also. And that was with a lightweight popup camper. I added a Hellwig rear anti-sway bar and air bags, and then it was OK. The springs/shocks on these are too soft for use as a truck.
But then, most 1500's are used as cars, seldom as trucks.
The 2500 felt like a truck from the start. I only added the air bags to assist in leveling the truck with the camper on oboard.
Today I saw a Toyota Tacoma with a camper. Most unusual site as the camper was really small. Not being claustrophobic...I might reconsider after looking at that camper. It was on the older side while the truck looked fairly new. Didn't know they made any campers for mini pickups. Learn something new everyday.
I saw this posted on the internet awhile back and it surprised me, too. A Bigfoot on a Toyota Tacoma. Scroll down to the bottom of this link for the Tacoma pic's.
The trucks were similar, the camper was old, square, rectangular shape with unpainted aluminum sides. I mean like it was about to fall apart. I'm no expert, but my guess would be at least 15 years old.
The local Bigfoot dealer in Seattle has the Bigfoot 1500 series 8.2 short box on a short box 1500 Chevy. He says that it is no more overweight than a 10ft on a 2500. I think they have ride right air bags on it. What do people think? Is it ok to do this? If I might chime in on towing, I towed a 5200# boat with my 4.0L 1992 Explorer all over. Still have both. Went to eastern Washington over 6% grade many times. No problems. The New 1500 2001 Silverado doesn't even know the 5200# boat is there. My 24ft 7500# boat isn't much more trouble with the Silverado. It did tax the Explorer on the few times I needed to get the boat to the repair shop and had nothing else to tow with. Yes I know how much overweight it was.
Putting a full size camper on a 1500 is just not a good idea. It works, with modifications, and today's trucks can probably do okay but I would stay away from it unless it's only rarely used. The 2500 brakes and transmission are easily up to the task whereas the 1500 is running at the extreme of it's design expectations. That means things don't last as long.
I've had a camper on an old 1/2 ton and it got me all over. However it was a chore to drive and I beat the heck out of the tranny. A new truck would do better, but the 2500 is still the way to go if you have the choice.
I need some truck/towing advice and this looks like the proper forum based on the present discussion.
I currently use a 1997 Chevy S-10 4.3L V6 XC to tow a "lite-weight" travel trailer, appx 4500 lbs when loaded. The truck is rated to tow 5500 lbs and does an OK job, but it works very hard for the entire trip. I will have an addition to the family soon and need a bigger truck anyway, but am cautious about another 1/2 ton, even if it is full-size. Is a full-size 1500/F150 a heavier, more capable truck? Or is it simply a bigger body with the same restrictions as my S-10?
I will definitely move up to a V8, but am worried about the total load on the truck. Should I jump all the way to a 3/4 ton?
Non floating axles - axle sees both torsion and bending. Eventually fails to do excess fatigue when overloaded. Failure mode is the wheel falling off leading to a giant wreck.
Semi/full floating axles - axle tube carries most of the bending force, and it is non reversed, so fatigue much less an issue. The axle only sees torsion. If overloaded will fail, but failure mode isn't usually a wheel coming off.
So, If you wanna overload a 1/2 ton, it could cost you your life.....
I don't know about the Ford, but a 99 Chevy with a 4.8L V8 and an automatic is rated to tow up 7500lbs, with 5.3L engine it is rated to tow up to 8000lbs.
My dad has a 2000 Silverado 5.3L/Automatic/3.42 ratio that is rated to tow 7000lbs and he regularly tows his 6000lb trailer without difficulty.
The 1500 is a good tow vehicle for mid weight trailers. The 2500 is slightly more money, but significantly more towing capacity. The 2500s are rated to tow up to 10,000 lbs, and have heavier duty wheels, axles, brakes, suspension, frame, etc. My experience has been a 10% loss in fuel economy going from a 1500 to a similarly equipped 2500.
I think you'll find a huge difference between a full size 1/2 ton and the S-10. Certainly the 1/2 ton will pull your trailer but a 3/4 ton will do it easier and more worry-free. One advantage of the 3/4 ton is that you can get a new trailer some day and not have to get a new truck. You should test drive both and see if you would enjoy living with the 3/4 ton ride when not towing.
I have a 2001 F250 and an 8' slide-in. I have a frame mounted tie-down bar for the front camper tie-downs. On my old truck, I installed two eye bolts in the rear bumper and attached the tie-downs.
I'd rather not drill the bumper and use it on the new truck. How do the rest of you attach the tie-downs to your trucks?
Why not use frame mount for the rear too if you don't want to drill. I think the frame mount people here do that.
I use the Happijac system. The rear buttons do require drilling the bumper but really look fine once installed. Much cleaner than an eye bolt, and chrome too.
Comments
Ed, my camera is an Olympus D360L. It's a decent lower end model, 1.3 mega pixel, $299 full retail but available cheaper. The web photos are size reduced 50% and compressed (jpg) to reduce the load time for my disadvantaged modem-using friends (go cable modems!) so the real pics actually look a bit better.
One note for you Happijac users. Don't overtighten the front turnbuckles or you may get sheetmetal damage some day. The front tiedowns aren't as strong as they could be and can be bent back until they damage the bed. This happened to me once. I've since learned that the turnbuckles should only be tightened just a little beyond the point that the spring starts to compress. Let the spring provide the holding force.
Also, the turnbuckles should be installed with the threaded end UP to prevent water from entering through the open end. They do rust inside after a while.
You ever watch the old Roseanne show? For a while she had a 'loose-meat' sandwich shop. That's a Maid-Rite.
They take hamburger, season it, and steam the meat to cook it. I guess most of the fat melts off, and it still tastes great. I've never been able to duplicate it at home.
So, when in Iowa, eat Maid-Rites.
For anyone who hasn't picked up on it, Vince and his large size camper went virtually everywhere I went with my pop up camper. In places he was a little slower. Other places (washboard roads) he was a little faster. Probably suspension dynamics and his Edelblock shocks.
Later,
Mike L
Can anyone suggest how much more space I need, if any? I am concerned about the camper flexing and contacting the top of the cab. The overhead part is 53" in length. Any advice?
Many thanks, Joe
What kind of truck do you have? A Ford SD by any chance? People put wood platforms in those. A camper installation place could sell you one.
Anyway, I bought another pair similar to Vince's (also a Cobra brand) and they should be able to talk to the one's Vince has. Fry's has them on sale for 39.95 a pair. With a $10 rebate coupon they come down to 29.95 (although the coupon they gave us was for a different Cobra set, there may not be a rebate for these).
I'm going to make a cigarette lighter adaptor for one, so the base unit won't need to use the 4 AAA batteries. The batteries seem to last a long time. I don't remember changing batteries the whole time we were in Death Valley.
At first, they seemed like a bit too much - but these little things are quite useful. It's very nice to be able to discuss which turn-off, which restaurant, etc. while you are still driving and looking. I could even ask Vince if my vents on top of the camper where closed. Beats having to stop and check or discuss options.
Check them out at:
http://www.cobraelec.com/microtalk.html
We bought the FRS 110-2 which is listed at $69.95 a pair. No rebate listed, but the rebate coupon we got is listed - Fry's must have screwed up the ad.
Mike L
Those radios are worth the money.
GPS are also pretty cool. The hunters had shot the deer they were chasing, but it was too dark to bring it off the mountain, so they hung it in a tree, and marked the location on their GPS. The next day they backtracked the GPS settings right to the spot. It had been so dark coming down they couldn't note any landmarks and would have had a tough time finding the location.
Unfortunately for them, a bear found the deer in the night, pulled it out of the tree, and had a good meal. Then some coyotes piled on. I thought it was amusing and told the hunters they weren't supposed to feed the wild animals, but I had to shut up - they were threatening to hang me in the tree. I think they were serious.
Jim
#1 of 1 A question for all camping owners by tundradude Jan 15, 2001 (05:25 pm)
I would like to hear if anyone could share their ownership experiences of having owned an ultralite camping trailer. I would also like to hear if anyone has had a heavyweight and traded it for a longer lite or ultralite camping trailer. I am thinking about getting a bigger one, and the ultralite does offer more size for not much more weight than my 20 footer is currently. I know to keep weight down, their is not as much cabinet space and aluminum is used.
However, I would like to see any arguments either way if getting a heavyweight in a bigger size or equivalent size is worth getting a bigger engine or different truck to pull it.
What brand is that enhanced 5 mile version? Carrying one of those while hiking is cheap insurance.
Mike, you got a great price. I've seen my model for $10 off at $59/set but never so cheap as yours. I guess that means yours don't have the sub-channels. Those are only $10 more in the Cobra line. It's worth it to avoid crosstalk in populated areas but not needed in the wilderness.
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We looked really hard at the lighter TT and the Hi/Lo models. Most of the fuel economy penalty is related to frontal area (aero drag) so lightening them up isn't as big an advantage as you might think. The negative on the Hi/Lo trailers is they fill up with dust and dirt when trailering them on dirt roads. Tundra Dude look at www.nashtraveltrailers.com.
The Cobra Microtalk standard FRS radios can be purchased at Costco for $69 a pair. They have 14 channels and 38 subchannels.
Jim
I will look at the nash site here soon.
I currently own a 20 foot (length measure) 82 Terry Taurus. Its GVWR is 4500. I am assuming that I am carrying it wet around 3800. It has all the traits of a heavyweight. It has the big tires, lots of cabinets, big gas tanks, solid furniture, etc.
I am currently trying to decide to get a new Terry Dakota 29S. It's dry weight is 4085, its wet with options and without luggage is an assumed 4300. With luggage and groceries, it is 4700-4800. My trucks capacity is 5250 for the trailer and the GCWR is 9200.
If I have done my adding correctly, then 4750 for the trailer, 4000 for the truck with hitch and lite stuff in the bed, 300 for me and my wife totals 9050.
I know the truck will pull it all day long, but being close to the ax is the dilemma. Should I just get a V8 Tundra or get a used F-250 and be able to pull a much heavier trailer.
I have noticed that the heavier trailer is the same price then the Dakota lineup that I am looking at.
I much rather NOT have to buy another truck. I really do enjoy the V6 Tundra and it was much cheaper than its counterparts, and the money spent for the difference on the trucks could go fully to the camping trailer.
I know how good that 82 I currently own has held up. I want what ever I get to hold up for at least 10 years.
I need to add, I have no problem of getting a used truck if I had too, because a new Tundra v8 or a F250 are quite expensive.
The GVWR on the 29S is 6500, and I believe for the 30S is 7500.
He averages 20+ mpg empty and 10-12 with the trailer in tow.
I guess what I'm saying is that you don't need an F250 to pull that size trailer.
On the other side of the coin, larger equipment does not always equal a better camping experience. In fact, I think less is more for enjoying camping. So, if you are happy with your truck, maybe you should keep your camper and invest in some upgrades for less money than a new camper?
Mike L
I do agree that some campers are a second home with all the luxuries. This is the way I feel about the 32 and up.
I also agree that my little trailer does make it special, however, there is ony room for one other person in my present trailer, unless their children.
I would just like to take my friends or family along.
A curious question, would the supercharger be a worthy modification?
Supercharger? Is this a factory setup? I'm always leary of aftermarket kits. When finally dialed in they work fine. But, getting it right can be tedious, and expensive. And you run the risk of destroying an engine if you get it too far wrong. I've done my share on modifying and building engines, and you can make some real improvements in specific aspects of the engines performance. But, for all around smooth operation, reliability, economy, and ability to repair it in the middle of Montana, it is very hard to beat a factory setup. Especially the new, fuel injected engines.
If you can do the mechanical work yourself, the costs go down. But who does the fine tuning, selecting jet or injector sizes, verifying tailpipe emissions, passing smog checks? It's a can of worms I don't want to open on a newer vehicle. Now on my 70 El Camino, hmmmmmmm.
Mike L
Of course my solution is always the same - get a 2500!
Of course you would have to change your name to jimmydude.
You know, I wasn't that bummed with my towing performance until two things happened. I drove back from TX to AZ at night on the interstate with two dirt bikes in the bed, with about a 25mph cross wind, after a race. The next weekend, we took my co-travel-trailer owner's F350 CC LB on a similiar type trip hauling 3 bikes and the trailer. I drove home after the race, and was amazed at the improved stability that the long wheelbase one ton offered. The 4.8L is plenty motor, but I have come to the right (or wrong) conclusion that for trailering, the tow vehicle should weigh close to what the towed object weighs.... And have a nice long wheelbase....
This is all based on the fact we run 75mph on the interstates and frequently travel over 10,000' passes on our race trips to Colorado.
Maybe if I towed a boat around back where I grew up in FL, I would be alot happier with a 5,000 to 7,000 lb thing being towed by a 4400 lb truck.
I'm curious to know how thr truck handles on the road, preferably "before" i plunk down the bucks for the trailer.
The 4.8L obviously has less power and you may be slow on acceleration and hills. You would be a lot better off with a 4500lb trailer, IMHO. Talk to the dealership where you want to buy the trailer. Maybe they will have one you can take out for couple of days to test the towing ability of your truck. If you are a serious customer and will buy it if the towing is acceptable. That way, they can hook up the equalizing hitch, etc. and you get the chance to find out before you become an unhappy customer. It is worth checking into before you put down your money.
Mike L
But then, most 1500's are used as cars, seldom as trucks.
The 2500 felt like a truck from the start. I only added the air bags to assist in leveling the truck with the camper on oboard.
Mike L
What is a reasonable maximum size pull-behind (not 5th wheel) travel trailer I should be looking at? (Just two of us, soon to retire.)
Also, what are good brands? (Not overly price sensitive, but don't want gold plated either.)
Hans
Arctic Fox for upscale, Nash for more plain jane.
Very happy with my '96 Nash 26A bunkhouse model
I saw this posted on the internet awhile back and it surprised me, too. A Bigfoot on a Toyota Tacoma. Scroll down to the bottom of this link for the Tacoma pic's.
Best regards, Joe
http://www.geocities.com/gypsyted/bigfoot.htm
I've had a camper on an old 1/2 ton and it got me all over. However it was a chore to drive and I beat the heck out of the tranny. A new truck would do better, but the 2500 is still the way to go if you have the choice.
I currently use a 1997 Chevy S-10 4.3L V6 XC to tow a "lite-weight" travel trailer, appx 4500 lbs when loaded. The truck is rated to tow 5500 lbs and does an OK job, but it works very hard for the entire trip. I will have an addition to the family soon and need a bigger truck anyway, but am cautious about another 1/2 ton, even if it is full-size. Is a full-size 1500/F150 a heavier, more capable truck? Or is it simply a bigger body with the same restrictions as my S-10?
I will definitely move up to a V8, but am worried about the total load on the truck. Should I jump all the way to a 3/4 ton?
Any advice/experience would be appreciated.
Chris
Semi/full floating axles - axle tube carries most of the bending force, and it is non reversed, so fatigue much less an issue. The axle only sees torsion. If overloaded will fail, but failure mode isn't usually a wheel coming off.
So, If you wanna overload a 1/2 ton, it could cost you your life.....
My dad has a 2000 Silverado 5.3L/Automatic/3.42 ratio that is rated to tow 7000lbs and he regularly tows his 6000lb trailer without difficulty.
The 1500 is a good tow vehicle for mid weight trailers. The 2500 is slightly more money, but significantly more towing capacity. The 2500s are rated to tow up to 10,000 lbs, and have heavier duty wheels, axles, brakes, suspension, frame, etc. My experience has been a 10% loss in fuel economy going from a 1500 to a similarly equipped 2500.
The new 2500HD has even higher tow ratings.
Mike L
I'd rather not drill the bumper and use it on the new truck. How do the rest of you attach the tie-downs to your trucks?
I use the Happijac system. The rear buttons do require drilling the bumper but really look fine once installed. Much cleaner than an eye bolt, and chrome too.
drof01 - go happijac!