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Ed, my camera is an Olympus D360L. It's a decent lower end model, 1.3 mega pixel, $299 full retail but available cheaper. The web photos are size reduced 50% and compressed (jpg) to reduce the load time for my disadvantaged modem-using friends (go cable modems!) so the real pics actually look a bit better.
One note for you Happijac users. Don't overtighten the front turnbuckles or you may get sheetmetal damage some day. The front tiedowns aren't as strong as they could be and can be bent back until they damage the bed. This happened to me once. I've since learned that the turnbuckles should only be tightened just a little beyond the point that the spring starts to compress. Let the spring provide the holding force.
Also, the turnbuckles should be installed with the threaded end UP to prevent water from entering through the open end. They do rust inside after a while.
You ever watch the old Roseanne show? For a while she had a 'loose-meat' sandwich shop. That's a Maid-Rite.
They take hamburger, season it, and steam the meat to cook it. I guess most of the fat melts off, and it still tastes great. I've never been able to duplicate it at home.
So, when in Iowa, eat Maid-Rites.
For anyone who hasn't picked up on it, Vince and his large size camper went virtually everywhere I went with my pop up camper. In places he was a little slower. Other places (washboard roads) he was a little faster. Probably suspension dynamics and his Edelblock shocks.
Later,
Mike L
Can anyone suggest how much more space I need, if any? I am concerned about the camper flexing and contacting the top of the cab. The overhead part is 53" in length. Any advice?
Many thanks, Joe
What kind of truck do you have? A Ford SD by any chance? People put wood platforms in those. A camper installation place could sell you one.
Anyway, I bought another pair similar to Vince's (also a Cobra brand) and they should be able to talk to the one's Vince has. Fry's has them on sale for 39.95 a pair. With a $10 rebate coupon they come down to 29.95 (although the coupon they gave us was for a different Cobra set, there may not be a rebate for these).
I'm going to make a cigarette lighter adaptor for one, so the base unit won't need to use the 4 AAA batteries. The batteries seem to last a long time. I don't remember changing batteries the whole time we were in Death Valley.
At first, they seemed like a bit too much - but these little things are quite useful. It's very nice to be able to discuss which turn-off, which restaurant, etc. while you are still driving and looking. I could even ask Vince if my vents on top of the camper where closed. Beats having to stop and check or discuss options.
Check them out at:
http://www.cobraelec.com/microtalk.html
We bought the FRS 110-2 which is listed at $69.95 a pair. No rebate listed, but the rebate coupon we got is listed - Fry's must have screwed up the ad.
Mike L
Those radios are worth the money.
GPS are also pretty cool. The hunters had shot the deer they were chasing, but it was too dark to bring it off the mountain, so they hung it in a tree, and marked the location on their GPS. The next day they backtracked the GPS settings right to the spot. It had been so dark coming down they couldn't note any landmarks and would have had a tough time finding the location.
Unfortunately for them, a bear found the deer in the night, pulled it out of the tree, and had a good meal. Then some coyotes piled on. I thought it was amusing and told the hunters they weren't supposed to feed the wild animals, but I had to shut up - they were threatening to hang me in the tree. I think they were serious.
Jim
#1 of 1 A question for all camping owners by tundradude Jan 15, 2001 (05:25 pm)
I would like to hear if anyone could share their ownership experiences of having owned an ultralite camping trailer. I would also like to hear if anyone has had a heavyweight and traded it for a longer lite or ultralite camping trailer. I am thinking about getting a bigger one, and the ultralite does offer more size for not much more weight than my 20 footer is currently. I know to keep weight down, their is not as much cabinet space and aluminum is used.
However, I would like to see any arguments either way if getting a heavyweight in a bigger size or equivalent size is worth getting a bigger engine or different truck to pull it.
What brand is that enhanced 5 mile version? Carrying one of those while hiking is cheap insurance.
Mike, you got a great price. I've seen my model for $10 off at $59/set but never so cheap as yours. I guess that means yours don't have the sub-channels. Those are only $10 more in the Cobra line. It's worth it to avoid crosstalk in populated areas but not needed in the wilderness.
Pocahontas
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Pickups Message Board
We looked really hard at the lighter TT and the Hi/Lo models. Most of the fuel economy penalty is related to frontal area (aero drag) so lightening them up isn't as big an advantage as you might think. The negative on the Hi/Lo trailers is they fill up with dust and dirt when trailering them on dirt roads. Tundra Dude look at www.nashtraveltrailers.com.
The Cobra Microtalk standard FRS radios can be purchased at Costco for $69 a pair. They have 14 channels and 38 subchannels.
Jim
I will look at the nash site here soon.
I currently own a 20 foot (length measure) 82 Terry Taurus. Its GVWR is 4500. I am assuming that I am carrying it wet around 3800. It has all the traits of a heavyweight. It has the big tires, lots of cabinets, big gas tanks, solid furniture, etc.
I am currently trying to decide to get a new Terry Dakota 29S. It's dry weight is 4085, its wet with options and without luggage is an assumed 4300. With luggage and groceries, it is 4700-4800. My trucks capacity is 5250 for the trailer and the GCWR is 9200.
If I have done my adding correctly, then 4750 for the trailer, 4000 for the truck with hitch and lite stuff in the bed, 300 for me and my wife totals 9050.
I know the truck will pull it all day long, but being close to the ax is the dilemma. Should I just get a V8 Tundra or get a used F-250 and be able to pull a much heavier trailer.
I have noticed that the heavier trailer is the same price then the Dakota lineup that I am looking at.
I much rather NOT have to buy another truck. I really do enjoy the V6 Tundra and it was much cheaper than its counterparts, and the money spent for the difference on the trucks could go fully to the camping trailer.
I know how good that 82 I currently own has held up. I want what ever I get to hold up for at least 10 years.
I need to add, I have no problem of getting a used truck if I had too, because a new Tundra v8 or a F250 are quite expensive.
The GVWR on the 29S is 6500, and I believe for the 30S is 7500.
He averages 20+ mpg empty and 10-12 with the trailer in tow.
I guess what I'm saying is that you don't need an F250 to pull that size trailer.
On the other side of the coin, larger equipment does not always equal a better camping experience. In fact, I think less is more for enjoying camping. So, if you are happy with your truck, maybe you should keep your camper and invest in some upgrades for less money than a new camper?
Mike L
I do agree that some campers are a second home with all the luxuries. This is the way I feel about the 32 and up.
I also agree that my little trailer does make it special, however, there is ony room for one other person in my present trailer, unless their children.
I would just like to take my friends or family along.
A curious question, would the supercharger be a worthy modification?
Supercharger? Is this a factory setup? I'm always leary of aftermarket kits. When finally dialed in they work fine. But, getting it right can be tedious, and expensive. And you run the risk of destroying an engine if you get it too far wrong. I've done my share on modifying and building engines, and you can make some real improvements in specific aspects of the engines performance. But, for all around smooth operation, reliability, economy, and ability to repair it in the middle of Montana, it is very hard to beat a factory setup. Especially the new, fuel injected engines.
If you can do the mechanical work yourself, the costs go down. But who does the fine tuning, selecting jet or injector sizes, verifying tailpipe emissions, passing smog checks? It's a can of worms I don't want to open on a newer vehicle. Now on my 70 El Camino, hmmmmmmm.
Mike L
Of course my solution is always the same - get a 2500!
Of course you would have to change your name to jimmydude.
You know, I wasn't that bummed with my towing performance until two things happened. I drove back from TX to AZ at night on the interstate with two dirt bikes in the bed, with about a 25mph cross wind, after a race. The next weekend, we took my co-travel-trailer owner's F350 CC LB on a similiar type trip hauling 3 bikes and the trailer. I drove home after the race, and was amazed at the improved stability that the long wheelbase one ton offered. The 4.8L is plenty motor, but I have come to the right (or wrong) conclusion that for trailering, the tow vehicle should weigh close to what the towed object weighs.... And have a nice long wheelbase....
This is all based on the fact we run 75mph on the interstates and frequently travel over 10,000' passes on our race trips to Colorado.
Maybe if I towed a boat around back where I grew up in FL, I would be alot happier with a 5,000 to 7,000 lb thing being towed by a 4400 lb truck.
I'm curious to know how thr truck handles on the road, preferably "before" i plunk down the bucks for the trailer.
The 4.8L obviously has less power and you may be slow on acceleration and hills. You would be a lot better off with a 4500lb trailer, IMHO. Talk to the dealership where you want to buy the trailer. Maybe they will have one you can take out for couple of days to test the towing ability of your truck. If you are a serious customer and will buy it if the towing is acceptable. That way, they can hook up the equalizing hitch, etc. and you get the chance to find out before you become an unhappy customer. It is worth checking into before you put down your money.
Mike L
But then, most 1500's are used as cars, seldom as trucks.
The 2500 felt like a truck from the start. I only added the air bags to assist in leveling the truck with the camper on oboard.
Mike L
What is a reasonable maximum size pull-behind (not 5th wheel) travel trailer I should be looking at? (Just two of us, soon to retire.)
Also, what are good brands? (Not overly price sensitive, but don't want gold plated either.)
Hans
Arctic Fox for upscale, Nash for more plain jane.
Very happy with my '96 Nash 26A bunkhouse model
I saw this posted on the internet awhile back and it surprised me, too. A Bigfoot on a Toyota Tacoma. Scroll down to the bottom of this link for the Tacoma pic's.
Best regards, Joe
http://www.geocities.com/gypsyted/bigfoot.htm
I've had a camper on an old 1/2 ton and it got me all over. However it was a chore to drive and I beat the heck out of the tranny. A new truck would do better, but the 2500 is still the way to go if you have the choice.
I currently use a 1997 Chevy S-10 4.3L V6 XC to tow a "lite-weight" travel trailer, appx 4500 lbs when loaded. The truck is rated to tow 5500 lbs and does an OK job, but it works very hard for the entire trip. I will have an addition to the family soon and need a bigger truck anyway, but am cautious about another 1/2 ton, even if it is full-size. Is a full-size 1500/F150 a heavier, more capable truck? Or is it simply a bigger body with the same restrictions as my S-10?
I will definitely move up to a V8, but am worried about the total load on the truck. Should I jump all the way to a 3/4 ton?
Any advice/experience would be appreciated.
Chris
Semi/full floating axles - axle tube carries most of the bending force, and it is non reversed, so fatigue much less an issue. The axle only sees torsion. If overloaded will fail, but failure mode isn't usually a wheel coming off.
So, If you wanna overload a 1/2 ton, it could cost you your life.....
My dad has a 2000 Silverado 5.3L/Automatic/3.42 ratio that is rated to tow 7000lbs and he regularly tows his 6000lb trailer without difficulty.
The 1500 is a good tow vehicle for mid weight trailers. The 2500 is slightly more money, but significantly more towing capacity. The 2500s are rated to tow up to 10,000 lbs, and have heavier duty wheels, axles, brakes, suspension, frame, etc. My experience has been a 10% loss in fuel economy going from a 1500 to a similarly equipped 2500.
The new 2500HD has even higher tow ratings.
Mike L
I'd rather not drill the bumper and use it on the new truck. How do the rest of you attach the tie-downs to your trucks?
I use the Happijac system. The rear buttons do require drilling the bumper but really look fine once installed. Much cleaner than an eye bolt, and chrome too.
drof01 - go happijac!