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Cabover Campers & Camper Trailers (pickups)
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Also...does anyone have any experience with the Australian company that manufactures Ultimate Off-Road Campers?
If you have a 99+ GM you can get factory "camper mirrors" which extend but are not power. They were actually a negative cost option on my truck. I would have been happy to pay hundreds for power though, at least on the hard to reach side.
If GM ever changes the camper mirrors to power please post the news here. I'd be interested in converting one of mine.
Admittedly, they are not perfect, but they do what we want them to do. I still think the 4Wheel camper probably has better quality than the Phoenix. But, we still like our Phoenix. We have over 25,000 miles on it and it is holding up well. We did have some initial problems, but these are low volume, hand built products and you will not get the quality you expect from a new car without paying much more than I did.
My wife could put up the top on the 4Wheel camper without difficulty. She cannot put up the top on our Phoenix, it is too heavy for her to lift. Maybe that is because we got a custom sized product (custom width, height and different lift height) and the leverages for the lifting mechanisms have not been optimized.
Our camper is comfortable for cold weather camping down to the teens. Probably much lower if we use the heater.
I've camped in a tent in the mid teens, in torrential downpours, in snow, and found it acceptable with the right equipment and preparation. The pop up camper takes care of most of those concerns. I think you will still have most of the tent issues with a 'Lofty Shelter'.
You might also condidre a used trailer. I've seen 16' Casita's and other small campers for under $5K.
Mike L
I also have a lab (chocolate) and she likes the camper as much as I do. It's a good way to travel with a dog because I can leave her in the camper without worry or guilt when I wish to go do something.
So it sounds like you are wanting a pop-up rather than a hardside camper. Are you past that decision point now and ready to start talking brand etc.?
http://members.home.net/vofm/
There are many camper shots of my Lance and Mike's popup.
So to answer your question, after the bar I'd install air bags next. They aren't very expensive and do give you added flexibility.
I purchased a Four Wheel Camper shell model and then added the stuff I wanted. The only big option I purchased with the camper was a furnace and I'm not sure I would do that again. On several occasions, instead of using the furnace, I've used one of those little Coleman catalytic heaters that use the small propane bottles and have been very comfortable. The only problem is you don't have a thermostat to control the heat, but the furnace is like $700 and you can buy a lot of propane bottles for that kind of money.
I've installed cabinets, water tank & sink, couch, porta pottie, etc., to make the camper very comfortable, and for a lot less money than I would have been charged for the same things from the factory. I've also installed those things so they can be easily removed if I want to use the shell to haul stuff. Best of both worlds. You can also get an extra wide door for the shell model that makes it easier to load large items. I think the shell model is a good way to go.
I've had a few problems with the camper that were annoying, but easily corrected. I had to use seam sealer on the popup portion of the camper to weather seal it. Although it wasn't difficult to do it was particularly aggravating because I thought the factory should have done it. How can you sell a supposed all weather camper that has not been seam sealed?
Overall I'm satisfied with the camper, but with the advantage of hindsight wonder if I wouldn't have been happier with a small travel trailer. I don't like carrying the camper all the time, but I don't have any place convenient to store it, so I have to leave it on my truck. If I do take it off I have to store it in one of those storage yards and if I have to do that I might as well have gotten a trailer. That's something to think about.
Jim
"I have got no further than this: Every man has a right to utter what he thinks truth, and every other man has the right to knock him down for it." - Johnson
I agree very much with kingfishgus about buying used. The best things to buy used are: exercise equipment and RVs. As he said, many buyers loose interest quickly so you can find only slightly used goods. I suspect 4-Wheel is in high demand and short supply on the market. I know Lance is in high demand. Only problem with buying used is you have to be flexible. I had to compromise on mine and accept the middle level model because it was perfect otherwise. I've looked a few times for popups for sale in my area and have found very little. Either they don't sell as many or people don't want to let them go.
I've been looking at trailer ads in the papers after seeing those shows; you can buy old trailers for $500 to $800. I'm fascinated with the idea of restoring one of those things. One of my concerns is that I may pay $500 for a trailer, then spend a couple of thousand repairing and updating it, and end up with a $2500 trailer that's still worth $500.
Kinda like my stock market investments. I'd be better off doing financial planning like my brother-in-law; he buys lottery tickets.
Jim
"Space isn't remote at all. It's only an hours drive away if your car could go straight up."
My pump had no attempt at noise reduction from the factory. It was mounted directly to the wall under the sink. It vibrated the entire sink cabinet which made an excellent sounding board. Isolating the vibration was most important, then I also insulated against direct noise from the pump motor.
I made a new mounting board and attached it to wood framing with carpet between the two. The pump is mounted to the board via rubber isolators (from Mike's garage). The board and all areas around it are covered in carpet and/or foam. I lined the whole underside of the counter above the pump with acoustic foam. I glued more acoustic foam to a cardboard sheet and formed it around the pump body to block direct noise. I left some air gap between foam on the bottom and top for cooling. I ran the pump continuously for over 10 minutes playing with plumbing and it never even got warm.
It turns out the water plumbing itself was a big source of vibration conduction. The semi-rigid plastic tubing Lance uses is plenty stiff enough to to be a conduit. Just preventing a water hose from touching a drain pipe made a noticeable difference. The cold water line between the pump and the faucet was very short. I bought a 20" flexible water line from Home Depot and installed it between the plastic cold hose and the faucet. This really helped to prevent the faucet connection from being a conduit to the entire metal sink.
After all that I'd say the noise level is down by at least 50%. Much more livable now, for me and for the people in the campsite next door. I doubt I'll ever do it but another step I think would help is to install a very flexible line right at the output of the pump. Even though I've isolated the cold plumbing pretty well, it still is a conduit for vibration to it's destination in the cabinet.
Here is a photo of the finished product. Not much to look at really.
Starting to determine how much rear window clearance vrs Axel to window space to decide just how far aft of the Axel to position the PIN pivot location.
Talked to Hitchhiker dealer today and he said that Reese has and Slider Adoptor Devise that allows you to mount the 'A' Frame and Hitch tilting platform support assembly directly to which inturn allows approx. 9" slide back when parking. Reese dealer catalog show a price of about $330 but can't tell how it works in combo with current 'A' Frame hitch unit.
Can't seem to get into the Reeseproducts web page but don't think they do a very good jop of showing detail anyway.
Anyone know the 'nitty gritty' details on this??
Thanks
75v
Air shocks would be my last choice regardless, unless I owned an auto parts store that stocked em.
Finally went to add on Leaf Springs by Rancho. That' the best solution and they are easy to install. Just make sure you really tighten the 'U' bolts a long way so the spring ends don't punch a hole in the bed floor when you bottom out at times.
75v
Air shocks are not meant to lift the kind of weight we are talking about. Nor do they have a good reputation for performance or reliability.
I had Hellwig overload leaf springs on my last truck ('89 F250). They did the job but when I got my Silverado, I didn't give a seconds thought to springs and immediately put air bags on. Here's why. The springs didn't keep the truck at the same level with and without the camper, therefore my headlights illuminated the trees and other driver's eyes when the camper was on. The springs made the empty ride more stiff (even the progressive ones do to some extent). With the air bags I can adjust to the exact load, including side to side, from inside the cab by pressing a button. I use the bags to help level in campsites. With no load I have a stock ride.
At around $200-250 the bags are a little more expensive but not much. A compressor kit will run another $160 or so if you want one but it's not required.
If you spend the time and money to do it right the first time you will always be happy with your decision. I've found that to be true anyway.
It's amazing what you can get into those little popup campers.
What do you think?
Jim
Mike L
Jim,
Dang, after seeing what you did with that 4 Wheel Shell model I'm tempted to go buy one too!!
So, I would guess that sway bar you got from me is what made it possible to carry all that extra weight?
Mike L
I don't see any TV though. You forgot the TV. I can't go off road without a TV.
I need my seating area reupolstered. Do you do large campers too?
You should check www.happycampers.net and do a key word search for that brand.
I don't know how they wire the factory version though. It may change depending if you ordered the camper wiring and/or tow package. I seem to remember that they wired it so the primary battery is not isolated when the ignition is off, which would be quite stupid. The wiring diagrams were not clear and I may be wrong. Anyway I'd verify that it is as you expect.
http://camping-trailers.com/images/wkndr_int2b.jpg
I currently have a shutoff valve on my tank before it goes inside the camper and another shutoff valve inside the camper. The shutoff inside the camper has only one line going to the furnace. I want to add another appliance inside the camper (cooktop).
The question is: Do I need another shutoff valve inside the camper or should I just put a tee after the existing shutoff valve and add another line that will run to the cooktop?
I'm thinking another shutoff valve since I don't necessarily want gas going to both appliances at the same time.
What do ya'll have?
Jim
"Serendipity is when you're looking for a needle in the haystack and you find the farmers daughter."
I like the photo of the custom interior. I guess the washer/dryer is behind the camera?
My refrig does, my water heater does, my furnace does, and my stove does. But I only have one main shutoff at the tank. The shutoffs in the refrig, furnace and water heater are automatic, no pilot, no gas. The stove have manual shutoffs for each burner.
I can't remove any appliance without shutting off the tank. And that is fine for me. If I needed to remove an appliance for maintenance I suppose I could make a plug for the open line - or not use the camper until the appliance is returned.
So, the main shutoff at the tank seems adequate for me. I don't see any benefit in having a separate valve for each appliance.
Mike L
I don't know where you're located, but you might check with Four Wheel Camper. They sometimes have used campers that they resell for customers. You can get a good deal on those.
stabbur - No washer/dryer. I had to make a choice between that or a hot tub.
Jim
In case you haven't seen them, I'm talking about the little US flag that is after each poster's name at the start of each message.
Mike L
Some furniture with the bulges and rolls does seem more comfortable because of the way it distributes force. I'm sure a good material inside is more important though.
I'd like to put a slight angle in the back cushion but then the bottom would have to be shorter so I don't know. I hope the upholstery shop can suggest a way to improve over the simple slab of foam in there now.
PF Flyer
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Any idea's where I might get 4 jacks for my style truck camper? Thanks Steve
Check this site for a freestanding jack you could use
http://www.rvpartsoutlet.com
Use the pull-down menu at the bottom of the screen.
Are you sure regular corner mount jacks won't work? That area is strong even without reinforcement, I think they would work. And I just happen to have a set you can have cheap! (True, but not why I think they would work.)
Has anyone ever done or seen a camper bolted to the bed at the back, or both front and back. Any drawbacks?
I can envision simply bolting through the camper floor and the pickup bed to lock the camper to the bed.
Another possibility could be a bracket bolted to the side of the camper and then bolted to the bed through the small access doors in the back.
A third possibility (one I prefer) is a flat bracket about 3" high and 5' wide. It would be bolted to the camper at the rear and then to the back of the PU bed. This might work on my camper since it is the same length as the bed.
It seems that the tie downs going to the bumper put some stress on the bumper brackets that the bumper wasn't designed for. But, mostly I don't like the way they look.
Any commments??
Mike L