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Subaru B9 Tribeca: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
but also to position the B9 as a luxury vehicle they need to make the loaner a universal company coverage. Chrysler did that for the Pacifica to compete with the Lexus, Acura, ect. (but this has all been covered before in the B9 Thread earlier this year)....
Jeff
it actually is not linked to the drive transmission but to the Parking Brake. you need to fool the system into thinking your parking brake is engaged. Of course that is hypothetical
Also they tested the other DVDs in the lot and they ALL have lower volumes on the DVD system. So I guess until others complain and Subaru sees the issue will they look at. They logged my issue. so if you think the DVD volume should be set to the same level as the stereo or CD player, file a complaint at the svc department please!
When the CD or DVD is recorded originally the volume setting of the recording equipment are set differently. Switch between radio stations and often the volume level changes.
Television is a good example, your watching your favorite sit-com at a given volume.
When the commercial comes on the volume goes dramatically. You did not change the volume but that recording was produced at a high volume level.
So there may not be a problem.
The repair shop agreed that it was not normal but (normal for B9s) they tried two other new B9s with DVD video and the same thing. its a design flaw in the entertainment system. they have the preamp gain set too low going from the DVD player into the Head Unit of the stereo. it is not balanced the same level of input as the other sources of audio.
Again the only audio source I did not test yet is the Audio IN ports in the back seat area. You have to stop by your dealer next time and check one out on his lot... to know that they have some issue.
the reason why it &*(&*(& me off... is that you turn up the volume to hear the movie and then say forget and switch to Radio or CD and it about blasts your ears out! because the volume is so loud. :mad:
they definitely hear the problem and it is not on other Tribecas they have on the lot.... seems to appear more when colder weather.
so they have escalated it to the subaru regional rep. I have to bring the car back when he decides what other things to look at :sick:
If you keep your tires at the sidewall amount this will prevent the tire rolling under your rim and cause a catostraphic blow-out during hard cornering or an emergency avoidance maneuver, better gas mileage and longer tread life.
Just so you know I am an instructor for high performance/defensive driving course with Federal Government.
Advantages for auto makers with lower pressure:
Softer ride
slightly better gas mileage
Advantages for tire manufacturers
You like the ride and slightly better gas mileage and tire wears out quicker so you buy them more often.
If you follow the auto rec's liability falls on them vice tire guys.
But if you ask anyone that does high performance driving or in the case of an emergency avoidance situation you want the maximum tire pressure for better control and stability.
As another note in the course I instruct if you have a non-speed rated tire it's the sidewall pressure plus 5 psi.
This strengthens the sidewall of the tire.
Only on the really inexpensive autos have I ever noticed a difference in the ride softness.
With my tires at 44 psi on my B9 we took a trip on the interstate here's the facts:
distance:133 miles
avg. speed: 67 mph
avg. mpg: 23.3 mpg
occupants: 2 adults, 2 children
method: mostly cruise control
Terrain: flat
traffic: light
In the few times I've gone to the race track and chatting with friends who do this on a regular basis (who do have training), I have never heard driving with pressure all the way up to the max tire pressure.
Can you point people to actual documentation that backs up these claims?
Also on mileage, I thought the higher pressure will actually give better mileage rather than lower.
Anyone else have comments on these claims?
Not to mention they buy specific tires for racing and autocross, they also have specific tires based on weather.
Good questions and feedback
The courses I instruct are utilizing vehicles of everyday travel not scca vehicles, with nothing more than Goodyear Eagle tires.
The instructor courses I attended are not available to general public therefore I'm not at liberty to state sources. Sorry
tls8th
capriracer, "Tires, tires, tires" #5044, 5 Oct 2005 9:54 pm
I think I'll cross post this thread over there as well.
Steve, Host
Craig
Funny Cars ie. drag racers, are the only types of racers that I know of that doesn't use maximum tire inflation, most other racers including INDY, Formula try keeping maximum inflation to keep tire temps. at a constant.
Keeping the tires inflated to about +3 PSI above manufacturers specs should be more than adequate.
You're going to have to do better than "my sources are secret" to convince me not to rely on the car manufacturer's recommendation on the placard.
Steve, Host
By the way the radio plays, but the 5 loaded CD's will not eject or play. My wife said this started on a company retreat this weekend, where she was playing some STP and Sevendust on the way there, a person with her that she does not know well turns out to be a bit of a presumptuous twit and ax'ed (ahem) her to put in a gospel CD. I would have chunked the guy out, buy my wife does not have charm of her dear hubby. Anyhow she said the CD was not a special shape and it played for a few moments then kaput - the MECHA ERROR message displayed.
1) Right headlight a bit higher than the left
2) Rear dome light keeps falling out when I hit a bump
3) When the temperature dropped, my tire pressure went to about 31-32 PSI and the TPMS light went on. (I guess it's good to know when you're 5-10% low).
4) Also in cooler weather the rear hatch hydraulics move slower and I've bashed my head into it twice. It also doesn't open up all the way sometimes when cold.
5) With the air temp at about 40 deg. F., the transmission 'bangs' from gear to gear when upshifting after a cold start. Maybe I should get some synthetic transmission fluid?
where is the message popping up at? on your Audio Screen or the area where you read the odometer on the dash?
bummer - sounds like you need to get it the dealer ... you could try hitting the eject button with the radio turned off and then hold it down and power the radio on... just a wild idea ...
Took a serious rock hit in the fog light lens on one side :sick:
see post # 137 and #138
or you can buy the whole foglight assembly for $95 :confuse:
the amount of time to heat the lens and remove and reglue the new lens I thinkg buying the whole assembly makes more sense.
now I noticed the right lens has a small crack in it. going to try windshield repair on that side... the left lens is really cracked :mad:
I'd probably replace the whole unit, and save the old one for parts... Good luck
AKA
We've got $300 stashed away. Got a rock chip on the windshield of our Legacy, so with a $100 insurance deductible, it'll be free, and we'll still have $200 left.
-juice
the front bumper is in perfect shape. the lens on the foglight is way too thin plastic. its needs to be glass or they need to make a rock shield like they do for the WRX line.
-juice
I do not like those because you have to keep them clean underneath or the dirt will act like sandpaper to the car finish.
I don't think Mahogony Red paint is out in the stores yet. Thanks for the advise.
:confuse:
But it sounds like the chip was deep enough to get through all that and expose the bare, unprotected metal. The coating was basically scraped off.
Clean the area up with some naval jelly (be careful and read the instructions) and then use a dab of touch-up paint. You want to cover the exposed area as soon as possible.
-juice
glassfix.com/headtail.html (with the www. in the front)
Has anyone added this feature? We have one in our Quest, but it's attached to the dashboard and looks so "added on."
We're hoping a more sophisticated way of getting satellite radio is possible.
Thanks.
Steve, Host
I think it would be better to remove the whole assembly and then try to work with it, much easier on your back. I'm sure it'll turn out just fine- worst case scenario you buy another unit, best case, costs you $10!
anyone see where I can find a diagram of it?