2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Lease Questions

gpsac · May 2007

Just a suggestion, but you would save yourself a bit of grief if you'd just negotiate the price (including any dealer or doc fees) through email via the online dealer quotes. You don't want to get into the payment negotiating game. Once you get a fair quote you have enough info in the forum to calculate the payment yourself.

Keep in mind that the factory to dealer cash is apparently impacted by the special lease programs. You want to let them know at some point that you will be using a AHFC lease.

curtis360it · May 2007

Went down to the local Honda dealer and got offered the following. I am overwhelmed and don't know if this is a good deal, anyones help would be GREATLY appreciated!!!

2007 Honda Accord LX 4 cyl. No add-ons - Manual Transmission.

$500 down - $250 a month.
15k per year- 36 month lease.

Money Factor - 00078
Sales Tax (2.75) , First Payment and Assignment fee rolled in.

dwynne · May 2007

The first rule of leasing is the first rule of car buying - negotiate the price first.

You can find out here on Edmunds (nd other places) what the invoice price is on the car you want. For an Accord you want to be right at invoice including destination and dealer fees less any dealer incentives. There is dealer money right now, but it can't be combined with the cheap lease rates. So you want to be right around invoice for the price.

Once you get the price settled for a nice number, then worry about the lease numbers.

Dennis

bvdj84 · May 2007

Why is it that you can go to a honda dealership, and trade in your honda for another honda model, for instance when leasing, and you don't get penalized for it. When turning in your honda in early before lease contract is up. If you were to buy a chevy or another brand and turn it in early, you would get hit with the rest of the payments, plus a return fee, plus more fees.

But, I could march on in with my accord, and they'll trade me in for a new accord, without hassle, the only thing you would have to worry about it is your trade in versus your payoff amount. Why is this? Is this because of the fact that its a Honda??? The honda dealership did not even throw the contract at me at all, or that I would have to pay the rest of the payments. They just matched my trade versus my payoff, which is 2k negative right now, for me, so that 2k would roll into the next lease, that is the only thing they said about getting into another lease. Nothing about about the contract. I even asked about it, and they told me that it would be absorbed. I wouldn't work about it, because its a honda, and as long as my trade in and payoff match good. If I had that negative equity, I would just have to roll into the next lease.OR I just wait til my contract is up, and have some Positive equity in my accord, then roll that into the next lease, but I will want to trade in early though.

I find all of this interesting. Oh well Bring on the 2008 accord!!

bigal77 · May 2007

I just got a lease quote today (May 28th, 2007) and the numbers I got are pretty close to what you are saying. The residual you are saying is a little bit better than what I was quoted. I live in Northern Virginia.

Here is the quote breakdown:
2007 EX-L V6 w/ NAVI MSRP $29,995
36month/15000 miles per year
MF .00078, Residual 52%

Initial Cap cost $27,721.84
Title, destination, etc.. $943.50
State Taxes $859.38
Down Payment $4644.38
Monthly Payment $289.44

Do these numbers sound like a decent deal? I think I am going to put less down and raise the payments some.

Thanks,
Al

bvdj84 · May 2007

I think that is a good deal, although, I think you should not put any money down, keep your money in your pocket, because if you break it down more, you will notice that its not affecting your car payment that drastically. They say for every 1k you put down it takes about $20 or so off your payment.

1k for $20 off

Therefore, your payment really should not be more than about $350 with no money down. unless you want your payments low for the future.It should be within that range. That is awesome, in my opinion. I pay $299 for my 06 SE with $0 down, so for a bit more, you got the whole package. Definately take advantage of it. I would like to get the 08 accord, but the good deals on the 07's look very appealing. But it'll be worth the wait. I think you did good!!

jet123456 · May 2007

Could someone tell me if this is a good lease deal:
Accord Ex-L V6 AT / 36 months at 15K.
$1460 total out of pocket including all document fees in New Jersey.
Lease payment per month including tax is $325 per month.
How does this sound? Thanks

bvdj84 · May 2007

Hello,

look at the above posts, another buyer wanted to know about the Ex-L V6 auto, it looks like he got a bit better of a deal than you, but it does look like you got 15k a year, I am not sure whether having 15k a year, over 12k a year would make that much of a difference in your payment. Like I said to him, you really should save your money. Look at his deal, and then see how much higher of a quote they gave you, and if 15k over 12k a year really makes your payment go up that much. Actually though, I think your close to your target, I would though negotiate as much as possible, They are wanting to get rid of these 07's. It almost seems like it should be that much a month with 0 down. Remember try other dealers quotes, and choose the best one! Good luck!

qbrozen · May 2007

Why is it that you can go to a honda dealership, and trade in your honda for another honda model, for instance when leasing, and you don't get penalized for it.

You do get penalized for it, they just hide it better. There are no free rides.

bvdj84 · May 2007

I did not get penalized. Read my earlier post it will say, they just look at my payoff versus my trade in value. I wanted to trade in back in february, but I was 2k negative at that time, and they did not even mention the contract, I actually had to ask them what they were doing with that, and the only thing I would have to worry about at that time was the 2k negative equity, and that would have to be rolled into the next lease. There were not termination fees, or any other problems getting out early, except getting the 2k taken care of. I know all of this, because I in fact tried this. This concept is very interesting, because I cannot go to chevy and trade in a chevy lease early without getting slammed with fees like crazy. They did not ask me how many payments I had left or that I had to roll all the remaining payments into the next lease, They wanted my payoff amount, and then did a trade in value on my car. I did all of this at my local dealership. I decided to wait til the 08.

qbrozen · May 2007

OH. I misunderstood your post. I thought you were talking about trading a Honda to a Chevy dealer.

Yes, if your trade-in value is equivalent to the lease buyout, you won't incur penalties, no matter who you trade it to.

Since Chevies are rarely worth their buyout, it does hurt to try to get out of a lease early with a chevy (or most "american" cars and even some euro makes).

bvdj84 · May 2007

Ya, I am sorry if I explained it all wrong. But isnt that awesome to be able to hold that much value in a honda, that actually if I were to wait til my contract was up, I would have equity in the car to roll over into the next lease, which would be like putting a down payment on it. But knowing myself, I will get crazy and trade in for the 08 accord.
My 2k negative equity was back in February, I am actually very close to being straight even. I tell you what though with lease deals out on the 07's it makes it very tempting. kind of going both ways, either get a fully loaded EX-L with navi now for the fraction of the cost of an 08 or go all out and get the 08, but do major research to get the best deal.

dwynne · May 2007

If you negotiate a really good price on the lease car, get a good lease rate (even better if you get a below market captive rate), and lease something that holds value well - then no matter what you choose you increase your odds of being able to exit the lease early without a penalty. Heck, you can even make money if you have the right car.

Hondas fall into this category now because you can get the car for around invoice, they hold value well, and you can get a cheap, promotional lease rate. That bodes well for the future should you want or need to get out of the lease early.

The only problem with some captive lease deals is they inflate the residual to make a lower payment, this can mean the buy out at any point may be more than the value of the car.

Dennis

dwynne · May 2007

Having to be the "first on the block" for a new model is a sucker deal. Honda will be selling them as fast as they can make them and folks will be paying too much and Honda will be offering no cheap deals. The smart money would wait until the sales balloon comes back down to earth and dealers have to start dealing and Honda has to offer cheap money. If you have a good car to drive now, then resisting the temptation to be the "first on the block" can save you thousands of dollars.

I have never understood the "me first" urge when it comes to cars. Even Honda has more problems in the first year of a new design than they do later on in the life cycle. So not only do you pay too much to be first, you are more likely to have more problems throughout the life of the car.

The only way it makes sense is if they can't sell the new model (the design leaves folks cold, a competitor has a better car for less, etc) and they have to make deals right after the launch - but I don't see that happening for the new Accord.

Dennis

jet123456 · May 2007

Thanks for your reply, but I have a question. I looked at the above deals and it looks like that other post states that he put down over $4000 to get a price of 289 per month. It seems that that is a lot more then my deal.

My money down breaks down to one month lease payment up front = $325 plus 395 for all documents. That leaves $740 as cap reduction. Thanks

qbrozen · May 2007

yup. you and dwynn are absolutely right.

Hondas never cease to amaze me in this regard.

2 examples:

my sister went way over her lease miles on her '03 CRV. She was allowed 48k over 4 years. traded it in after 3 years and 7 months with 60k miles and she was only $1k upside-down!

we finance an '03 Pilot with $0 down for 6 years (and this is when they were fairly new, so we paid about $1k over invoice) and traded it for exactly the buyout after just 2.5 years!!

bigal77 · May 2007

Could you give more of the details for the lease that you got on your car? Specifically the lease factor, residual %, MSRP, and cap cost. It is tough to compare apples to apples without the details. I did not actually take the $289 a month deal that they offered. I just got the offer so I could go shop it around and compare (which I am doing here). I had a feeling it wasn't the best of offers. It was only $500 over invoice which I didn't think was bad? The other fees they charged such as destination and title seemed reasonable at $943. In Virginia they seem to charge the 3% sales tax up front which came out to an additional $859 due at signing.
Thanks for the info, Al

rpandey · June 2007

Hi guys, I am planning to lease Honda Accord EX-L V-6, AT, 15000 mileage per year and best quote so far is:
2400 ( Down Payment, includes tax, title, reg fees, doc fees, gap insurance etc)on day of leasing.
280 x 35 mths.
MF : 0.00071
Residual value : 15677
Is this fair deal or should I negotiate more. Kindly guide me. Thanks for your suggestion and advice.

rujo · June 2007

What is the selling price of the car? (Residual and money factor are set by AHFC - and they look fine. So it's really the selling price you need to evaluate now, and negotiate it down if it's not competitive. I don't know what area you're in, but looking at posts in this forum and the Prices Paid forum - I'd want to be many, many $$$ under invoice for an Accord at this time.)

Also, to better evaluate your proposed deal we need to know: Does the $280/mo. payment include tax?

Finally, take the advice of experts on this forum and put minimum $ upfront. This means: start with the sellling price you negotiate and add the $595 lease acquisition fee to it to get your cap cost. This is the figure your monthly payment will be calculated from using AHFC's residual and money factor. Upfront $ will then be tags, title, dealer document fees and first month's payment (this upfront amount would be about $600 in California, for example).

PS: Gap insurance is included in the AHFC lease agreement I signed recently on an Acura. It's called Total Loss Protection. I'd expect to find a similiar (or identical) provision in an Accord lease.

bigal77 · June 2007

Rujo,
With gap insurance being included in the AHFC lease agreement does this mean that it should not be a seperate charge payed for up front at signing? It should already be rolled into the $595 acquisition fee or the invoice of the car? I am a little confused about whether or not gap insurance is a valid additional charge to be paid for up front at signing when leasing a Honda.

Thanks,
Al

kyfdx · June 2007

GAP insurance is included in all AHFC leases.. No extra charges should apply.

rpandey · June 2007

The dealer is not coming up with selling price, as per him final quote which includes all i.e tax , title, acquisition fees, doc fee etc will be
2400 on day of signing ( which includes first mth payement)
280 x 35
15000 mileage per year
Tax for my place is 6.75%
Honda Accord EX-L V6 AT, No navigation
I told him to take out gap insurance and put me under smart buy, but as per him, for that the current Finanace rate is 6% and this will cahnge to 2000 on day of signing and 330/mth for 35 mths..

Is the first quote a fair deal or still I m paying more. As per him, it is below invoice price.

rujo · June 2007

Personally, I wouldn't deal with any dealer who isn't willing to completely and properly break down the lease numbers. It almost certainly means he's trying to hide something. And it shows, ultimately, a lack of respect for the customer.

But let's move on . . . he needs to give you these figures that are taken right from the AHFC lease agreement you'll be signing:

"gross capitalized cost"

"capitalized cost reduction"

"adjusted capitalized cost"

"residual value"

"total monthly/single payment" (this is the bottom line monthly payment incl. sales tax)

There's also a section on the lease agreement called "Itemization of Amount Due at Lease Signing" - have him break this out for you exactly the way it's going to be entered on the lease agreement.

If you do these things you've accomplished two things: 1) There's less chance of a surprise/"oops, mistake" at lease signing. You will have had a chance to go over the numbers and (hopefully) understand in advance what you're signing. 2) Once we have these numbers we can try to determine whether it's a fair deal or not - without them, there's really no way to know.

Again, I emphasize . . . I'd be very suspicious of a dealer who is not forthcoming on the details of a lease.

PS: Basically, the numbers you posted in your message #1351 work out to a selling price right at invoice (which, of course, could be "below invoice" by $2 and your dealer would be, technically, telling you the truth re the selling price). It's also possible the "selling price" is lower than this but is made up for by extra-high dealer document fees - it all works out the same for the dealer, profit-wise. So . . . I think we now know why he's reluctant to share numbers - it's a pretty good deal for him!

doc22steve · June 2007

Does anyone know what the new June lease numbers are? I'm looking to lease a 4cyl EX auto with navi and a 4cyl ex auto without navi. Need to know the MF, and residuals for 36month /12k per yer and 10k per year. Also 24 month numbers if possible. Thanks.

dhs135 · June 2007

Hi,
I have been reading this forum for awhile and havn't seen this type of situation discussed. Im looking for some advice from some of you that seem so knowledgable and helpful.

Anyway, Im in the market for the EXL v-6 MT.

The best quote I have received was 3K down with 275 monthly for a 15K lease. Sorry I don't have any more detailed numbers (I will get them next time we talk) but after reading the board, I realize that is a seemingly average deal. And also that I should not put that much down. Just 1month payment and applicable fees, taxes. etc.

Heres' the twist:
My current honda lease has one payment left($361) and matures 07/26/07 and has some external damage (Cracked windshield and dent in rear, each item is less than $500 and $1500 in total: so I was covered under the allowance for damage.)

With addition of the early turn-in and approx $1000(dealer quote, actually much less) in damages, My payment went up to about $315 with the same down payment. Apparently, you lose you the damage allowance when trading in early. I walked away.

So my questions are, should I lose my allowance when ending lease eary? The dealer said that deal would go away if I waited two more months because of the drop in residual each month, so how much of a change should I expect to see? What could the pro's and con's be of each option? I would expect deals to keep getting better as the 08's approach, but the salesman didn't agree.(most likely lying) What are the chances of the numbers next month being more favorable to us?

Thanks in advance for any help/advice you guys can offer.

Also, I live in SE Pennsylvania. Is anyone aware of any areas near me that are consistenly cheaper/better deals?

rujo · June 2007

I have a question: "Early turn in" really means the dealer's taking your car in trade, correct? If so, one key issue is determining what your car (in its present condition) is actually worth at wholesale. I think I would try to make a judgment on that and then figure out if the "allowance" he's giving is acceptable to you.

Btw, forget for the moment you have one payment left (I know it affects your own decision making but it's not relevant to the worth of your trade in). The important number for you to know is "what is your payoff?" - you can get this from AHFC. When the dealer takes your car he'll make the payoff and then presumably make the repairs . . . so, is your payoff plus his cost of repairs a fair wholesale value for your car at this moment? If so, fine. If not, go elsewhere and see what they'll give you in trade. Or, make the deal for the new car by itself and then just turn in your present car at lease end.

I think the key to getting a satisfactory deal is to treat your trade-in and the lease on the new car as separate items - even if ultimately the dealer takes your car in trade and pays it off as part of your deal. This is the same kind of advice folks are given when buying - negotiate the new car selling price, then determine an accurate value for your trade-in.

rpandey · June 2007

I have tried multiple quotes for Accord EX-L V-6, AT,No Navigation and 15K/yr:

2400 at time of signing lease
280 x35

2000 at time of signing lease
288 x 35

2000 at time of signing lease
310 x 35

Every dealer states, he is below invoice and best quotes so far are first two. All quotes includes tax, title, registration and first mth payement, no other fees.

Does any body has any suggestion, as dealers are pressing to buy by June 6th as the current rebates will be over.
Should I wait or go ahead and sign First quote.

All quotes are from dealers in chicago and car will be leased at address at Ohio, where tax is 6.75%.
Any ideas or suggestions.

rujo · June 2007

Please pardon me for speaking frankly . . . I still don't understand your refusal/inability to get all the lease numbers - in exactly the detail that will be on the lease agreement they want you to sign - spelled out in advance from these guys. Having gotten that off my chest . . . the second quote - 2000 at signing and 288x35 - is cheaper than the first quote.

Have you gone thru all posts for the past month in both the leasing forum and Prices Paid forum to see what others have paid in the Chicago area? But even if you do this - how will you know whether you're getting a good deal if you don't know what "selling price" you're paying? It's the dealer's game to focus only on monthly payment and $ upfront.

ilikenewcars · June 2007

Hi all. I was interested in leasing a CR-V but the quote was way out of my league, so I opted for a quote on a 4 cyl. Accord EX (non-leather):
$229/month with $1k out the door. Does that sound reasonable? Also, if adding (or taking away) $1000 from the down payment changes your monthly payment by approx. $20 the same way, then doesn't that mean that if the car you can adjust the same way for the MSRP? Meaning if the EX is blank $$ and the LX is $2k less, then you should be able to adjust your monthly payment by that much (lease incentives notwithstanding). Does that sound right?

apostle31 · June 2007

Hello Car Man, just curious what you think of this lease

2007 Honda Accord Ex-L 4 cyl no nav
MSRP 25,943
GCC 24,085 (Includes Acquisition fees etc)
Residual 14617
Sales Tax rate of 5.9
Monthly payment of $305 (includes sales tax)
Only money due at signing was $305 (first months payment) plus $10 temp tags

Any feed back on how I did

apostle31 · June 2007

Sorry did not inlude this is a 36mon/36k lease. I think the dealer said the MF is .00078 and residual at 56%

nircdoc · June 2007

Apostle31:

I definitely think you can do better than that. Invoice is 23291 add the 595 and get 23886 and that is invoice. You should definitely be able to get below invoice - pple have been quoted up to $1700 below so I think you can do better. Have you contacted several dealerships? Good luck with the lease.

apostle31 · June 2007

They would go about $700 below invoice on a purchase but not a lease. Got quotes from other dealer that were much higher. Just not seeing how you can lease and get $1700 below invoice. That hold back and cash are not available on a lease as I understant it.

apostle31 · June 2007

Actually the new MF for June on a Honda Accord Ex-L 4 cyl Super Preferred credit is .00065 and residual is 57% on a 36mon/36k.

eva3b · June 2007

Hello Car_man,

Can I please request lease rates, (residual and current money factor) for June on an Accord Sedan AT (I-4) LX, VP, and SE series. 36 months, 12,000 miles per year

I apologize for the multiple requests, looking to purchase this month with current lease incentive, still undecided on which vehicle.

Thank you.

[Deleted User] · June 2007

I was wondering if they had dropped the MF. Do you or anyone else happen to know the MF and residual for an EX-L V6 36 mo / 12K yr? Thanks!

[Deleted User] · June 2007

Ok, I'll reply to my own post for the benefit of others

I stopped by the dealership at lunch to look around. I was told the residual is still 56% and the MF dropped to .0005 for an EX-L V6 on a 36mo/36k lease

dwynne · June 2007

0.0005 is effectively 1.2% money. So did you have them write you up a "sign and drive" lease right then

? For sure no reason to pay much of anything at signing if Honda will give you 1.2% on the deal.

Dennis

[Deleted User] · June 2007

Tempted, but trying to sell my vehicle right now since there's no tax break with a new lease, and that I should get a few extra grand selling it rather than trading. I'm still debating between the Accord and the TSX though...

dwynne · June 2007

The TSX is more like a Civic competitor to me than a competitor to the Accord. Now the TL really looks nice to me - every time I see one in traffic I think "nice".

An Accord is not going to stir the blood of most enthusiast drivers, but getting them so cheap now with such cheap lease deals they are a REAL bargain and a nice car.

Dennis

rpandey · June 2007

Hi today, I got another lease quote for Honda Accord EX-L V6
without navigation.

2000$ at time of signing lease which include salex tax, title, registration fees and first month payement
265$ for 35 mths

15000 mileage per year.
Is this a competetive quote.

dwynne · June 2007

Sounds like it, but how much are you paying for the car?

Honda dealers normally do not mark up the lease money factor, so if you qualify for tier 1 rate you get it. So the price of the car is key to a good deal, along with any dealer "doc" or "prep" fees they add on.

Dennis

rpandey · June 2007

dealer doc fees and prep fee is included
selling price is around 23700 dollars
Money factor is 0.00071
They r giveng under super preffred credit tier

nircdoc · June 2007

Sounds like a great deal, I got a similar deal when i leased mine, but with the MF so low why pay $2000 up front? Roll it all into the lease. You can put that $2000 in a high yield savings account at 5%!!
Good luck with the lease, I leased one at the end of April and I love it!

jimfireftr · June 2007

I have never leased before and have this quote on 36mo 15k/year
Gross capitalized cost $21,367
Residual $13,416
MF .0005
My tax is 6.5%
Total monthly payment $271.95
Money down $467.45
Any comments on this deal? Good? Bad? Can do better?
I know i dont have the Capitalized cost reduction or adjusted capitalized cost but any help here would be great.
Thanks

christina271 · June 2007

just wondering what everyone's thoughts were on the details of this lease..

FEATURED SPECIAL LEASE: Closed-end lease for 2007 Accord EX-L V-6 Automatic Transmission (Model CM6657JNW) for $239.00 per month for 36 months with a $2,465.00 capitalized cost reduction available to customers who qualify for the AHFC Super Preferred credit tier. Other rates/tiers are available under this offer. $3,299.00 total due at lease signing (includes first month's payment, security deposit, AHFC upfront acquisition fee and capitalized cost reduction; total net capitalized cost and base monthly payment does not include tax, license, title, registration, documentation fees, options, insurance and the like). Security deposit waived in featured lease example. Not all buyers may qualify.

Subject to limited availability. Through 7/5/2007, to approved lessees by American Honda Finance Corp. Closed end lease for 2007 Accord EX-L V-6 Automatic Transmission vehicles (Model CM6657JNW), for well qualified lessees. Not all lessees will qualify. Higher lease rates apply for lessees with lower credit ratings. MSRP $27,995.00 (includes destination) less the capitalized cost reduction (which may be paid by the suggested dealer contribution) resulting in actual net capitalized cost $23,574.43. Dealer contribution may vary and could affect actual lease payment. Taxes, license, title fees, options and insurance extra. Total monthly payments $8,604.00. Option to purchase at lease end $15,677.20. Lessee responsible for maintenance, excessive wear/tear and 15 cents/mi. over 12,000 miles/year for vehicles with MSRP less than $30,000, but for vehicles with MSRP of $30,000 or more, mileage cost is 20 cents/mi. over 12,000 miles/year. See dealer for complete details.

It seems that this new special is suggesting you can get the car with $0 cap cost (to be paid by the dealer).

dwynne · June 2007

The invoice on this car is $25,414 - this deal calls for $3,299 up front of which $2,465 is a cap cost reduction. The new cap is $23,574.43, so if you add the cap cost reduction to the net you get the sell price of $26,039.43. This is $625.43 over the invoice price, so this deal is not that sweet. Edmunds shows $750 and $1,200 dealer incentives, but I don't think any apply with the cheap lease deal. There is not enough profit in the deal to get you this payment with nothing out of pocket.

In any case, you should be able to lease the car a lot closer to invoice than what is shown in this special. You negotiate the price of the car down just like you were buying it, the lower they price the car the less you pay out of pocket to get this payment.

Keep in mind you are not locked into this SAMPLE deal - you can pay less down (and should with the cheap rate) and just pay more put month. The money factor and residual are set, the variables are how cheap you can get the car and how much/little you want to pay at signing. With really cheap money, I would pay at most the first payment only and no more.

Dennis

christina271 · June 2007

dennis,

thanks for getting back to me. the part that i highlighted seems to indicate that the dealer can pay the cap cost for you. however i went in to my dealer tonight and the manager basically said he would be at a $2000 loss on the car and couldn't do it.

dwynne · June 2007

That sounds about right. On some of the lease specials, you can get to the net cap cost by negotiating down the price of the car and not paying money down. Honda is really, really trying to move Accords and so the advertised specials are not leave that much room for negotiation - but there is some.

Some folks may find their local dealer will not do these deals, as the profit built into them is not enough to suit them. These dealers will likely have a lot of Accords to choose from, however

Dennis

rujo · June 2007

I think the concept of "my dealer" may cost you money. I'd recommend getting quotes from several dealers. probably via email: Tell them you're going to do an AHFC lease - what is their selling price? (If you get a low quote you have to look out for a dealer trying to pad the deal with inflated dealer fees or dealer-installed options.) In many areas of the country there can be quite a bit of price difference from one dealer to another.

Personally, when Honda's ad itself suggests the dealer contribution right there in black and white, I'm in favor of holding the dealer's feet to the fire on this. There are incentives we don't necessarily know about - including the dealer's motivation for even taking a "loss" on an 07 so he is allotted more 08's which he can sell near MSRP. The key is getting enuff quotes so you find that motivated dealer - either to buy from him or to use the info to push "your dealer" into being competitive.

One other approach that has worked for some: prepare a one page lease proposal using the selling price you're after. Email to numerous dealers saying you're prepared to take delivery today on these terms - do you want my business? You may be pleasantly surprised - and at the very least, the properly drawn lease proposal shows you're both serious and knowledgeable, and should give you a solid shot at getting the best deal actually available in your market area.

2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Lease Questions

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