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GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions



  • goldsmdegoldsmde Posts: 2
    2003 GMC 1500HD, 6.0 L;
    I am having an intermitent problem with the speedometer. It will often display much higher than actual speed. When stopped the gauge will read 20 or 30 mph. It comes and goes. I've been told that everything is electronic now. It sounds like it must be the gauge. Any thoughts? Do you have to replace just the speedometer or the whole gauge cluster?
  • Has anyone found a tool that helps in changing the distributor cap, or any other easy way to change the cap for that matter?

    I have a 1998 Sierra 3500 Dually 4wd. Last time I changed the distributor cap and rotor it was an 8 - 10 hour thing, because the cap is under the intake manifold so it is very difficult to tighten one of the cap's screws.
  • tubbytubby Posts: 3
    Hello fellow GM owners,

    I finally found something to post on here. The "piston slap" issue is really a load of crap. Dealers say it does it on start up and goes away, but I have noticed while driving the valves rattle like you have bad gas.

    The knocking you hear is more than likely the roller lifters with no oil at start up. The excuse piston slap is used is how the design of the engine and where the lifters are placed in the engine. They are held in place with in a grouping of 4 in a container that is bolted to the block. Due to the design the opening is large enough to amplify any engine noise near the pistons and the heads are bolted directly on top of the lifter gallies making it difficult to make this repair.

    I pulled the valve cover and ran the motor with little or no oil coming thru the pushrods on the lifters. I also have found out that the oil pumps can fail with no warning and have ran as low as 6psi at idle which the dealer says is normal.

    I am in the process of replacing the oil pump and lifters and hopefully will remedy my situation. It has not burned oil, like I have read on sites where 2-4 quarts of oil between oil changes is normal by dealer or GM customer service standards but it is not normal, I have had several GM's in the past and 1 quart or less in 3-5k was normal.

    I really love my truck and yes GM has got problems but they better get their stuff together and take care of the customer instead of being in denial or they will not have customers.
  • jf3761jf3761 Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 GMC Denali PU 6.0L W/Quad Steering. Between 30-40MPH I experience a vibration noice (sounds like a heat shield vibrating maybe) When the vibration begins and I hold my speed steady, the vibration will not go away. I do not lose power or feel any change in vehicle handling. It is just anoying. Does anybody have any clues
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    JF..........Since you live in snow and salt country
    and your truck is a 02 I am betting on a loose heat
    sheild on your cat(s).
    Those cheap spot welds just break/rust off thus causing
    the vibration(s). Try driving a few wood wedges between
    the cat and muffler and see if it cures your problem.
  • kimble989kimble989 Posts: 14
    Guys: My father has an 2000' model GMC Sierra with a 5.3L/V8 Vortec Engine. Nice truck with somewhere in the neighborhood of 35,000miles. Lately his blower motor is very loud when using the heater/ac/vent. I told him I would write on here and see if any one had any ideas of why this is. Just the blower motor going bad? or can something else cause this?
    Thanks guys,
  • jf3761jf3761 Posts: 2
    Geo thanks for the advice I'll give it a try
  • richmontrichmont Posts: 1
    What is the correct placement for the alternator brackets on a 1989 GMC Sierra? I'm rebuilding my engine and can't figure out how to put the brackets on correctly. Any help (pictures especially) would be appreciated.
  • reykingreyking Posts: 1
    sir i have a 3500 1999 chevy pick up and it is doing the exact thing your is if you figure it out let me know i replaced the fuel modulator the fuel pump and the mapp sensor and nothing has change now the are tell me to replace the fuel injector
  • jasminecjasminec Posts: 3
    Ok, this is a 99 v6 4x4 sierra 1500. The check engine light was on so it was taken to a garage and hooked up to the computer. They said that there was a bad o2 sensor and the computer said the transmission was slipping. We told them that it was surprising since there was nothing noticeable with the transmission. The garage then said to change the transmission (oh, this is an automatic transmission) fluid and filter. Then they would check the computer again. Well, now it noticeably slips.....badly. Even re did everything to make sure something wasn't loose or there was enough fluid. Everything looks fine, but the slipping is horrible. Any ideas? Not sure if anyone can really help but transmission work is so pricey. I'm sure we are gonna have to bite the bullet and spend a good bit of money but I wanted to see if any of you had any problems similar.
    Thanks to all in advance.
  • gmctruckgmctruck Posts: 186
    How many miles are on the vehicle? What kind of transmission fluid did they use? They may have used the wrong type of fluid for your vehicle. Find out exactly what fluid they used and make sure it meets GM specs. Good luck!
  • gmctruckgmctruck Posts: 186
    I don't know if you bought new tires yet, but check the door sticker on your truck to make sure they sell you the correct tire designed for your vehicle. I originally purchased the Michelin LTX M/S tires for my truck, but it felt like I was riding on under inflated balloons! The Michelins were "P" rated tires(35psi max), but my door sticker called out "LT" tires which are rated for 50psi. You can put "LT" rated tires on a "P" rated truck, but you can't put "P" rated tires on a truck with an "LT" rating. The tire shop failed to check the door label before installing the "P" rated tires on my truck. I called the Michelin support line and was told the tires had to come off my truck because it was not rated for "P" series tires. I now have the "LT" rated Bridgestone Revo's which seem to be decent tires so far. I have the 265's which are a bit smaller than the 285's.
  • I have a 1999 GMC Sierra 5.3 l 4wd a/c etc.. Overall an excellent truck that I use for towing. The last year or so it has developed an intermittent whine from the front of the engine. Sounds like the water pump but that fix did not work. New belt did not work. Of course whenever I take it in for servicing the sound goes away. A/c or or off does not matter.

    Anyone else have this problem? What was the fix?

    Anyone tried to buy a PS hose for this vehicle? This aftermarket part does not exist up here in Canada...and GM wnats in the $300 range. (I have a very very small weep in the hose and that is the next repair that is planned)
  • cgood1cgood1 Posts: 1
    I have a 99 GMC 2500 4x4 w/6L vortec and the transmission temperature is running on the notch between 40 & 95, i'm just curious if that's normal or if there's a problem. I reciently changed the fluid and filter with no change to the temp. There's 145km on the truck. Can anyone tell me what their's runs at?
  • gmctruckgmctruck Posts: 186
    Check the serpentine belt tensioner.... they do wear out over time. You can buy a cheap(>$5)stethoscope that works well tracking down noise sources like yours. Putting your ear next to a long crowbar or screwdriver also works, but not as good, and is a bit more dangerous. 8-)
  • inkdinkd Posts: 1
    First off, thank you in advance for any help or insight you can provide. I have a 2000 sierra 2500 series that is not a hd with 140 000km. The problem that is occurring is when you first start the truck or restart it warm. Basically when you go to give it gas, the engine will not rev up much if at all and will not let you accelerate at all. It does not feel like the transmission is slipping, it just feels like their is a limiter in place however is goes back to normal as soon as it hits second. The only code error that has ever came up was an o2 sensor but happened at a totally different time.

    Again any help would be appreciated.
  • eklund1eklund1 Posts: 1
    I have a problem with the transmission in my 1500 4x4 5.3L Z71 GMC. The code says its the 2-3 shift solenoid. Has anyone had problems with this before? Is this a common problem? The problem started after having the tranny flushed and the filter changed. The mechanic said he pulled the pan back off to make sure he didn't smash any wires, and everything looked good. I will change out the solenoid sometime this week. My truck acts like its stuck in third gear. Its real sluggish when I start driving until I get up in speed and it won't shift into overdrive. You can manuely shift it just fine. My truck only has 87000 miles on it.
  • bigbillybigbilly Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 2500HD Dmax, when I start the truck in the morning the alternator takes @ 30 -45 seconds before its charging at @14 volts. You can see the battery voltmeter sitting @12 volts then the jump to 14. Never seen this before on my previous trucks. Any ideas?

  • dave_ssdave_ss Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with mine, it's also an 03 1500 but with a 5.3L. Have you found a solution yet? If so let me know please.... thanks
  • alexm234alexm234 Posts: 10
    I have a 2005 Sierra 2500HD. It has been making this whistling teapot type noise comming from the engine area. You can only hear it when the vehicle is in any of the drive postions. If I put it in park neutral or reverse, they noise goes away. It also seems to get louder as it idles and the HD transmission gets hotter. Anyone have any solutions or idea of what it might be? Thanks.
  • raiderkenraiderken Posts: 1
    I also have a 2003 1500 silverado. My speedometer is the opposite it showas approximately 20 miles an hour slower.

    Anyone have a solution for this?

  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Do you have non stock size replacement tires?
  • pekknettpekknett Posts: 1
    Is this truck worth looking at, considering long term ownership? I have a 1997 Sierra 1500 and the repairs have gone through the roof!!! :sick:
  • pathy58pathy58 Posts: 15
    I had a friend once that was told his tranny needed replaced and the problem was the catalic converter (sp) He didn't have any power and tranny was running hot.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Yes. Drive 20 MPH under the speed limit.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Hi folks

    In an effort to make things a bit easier to research, we're adding more focused discussions for the Silverado/Sierra so that they don't get lost in one general discussion.

    If you click on the main Silverado & Sierra Group, you will see a bunch of new discussions broken down by specific sections of the truck. We'd like you to start posting your problems under those new discussions, and hopefully you can get faster respoinses by those who may be more knowledgeable about those specific areas.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • I have a 2003 GMC 1500 Z-71 and at 60,000 miles my speedometer did the exact same thing and then finally froze up pegged at it's max. It cost me $1,100 for the dealership to replace the entire instrument cluster. Now a friend of mines 2004 GMC Envoy is doing the same thing at 55,000 miles. Is it too much to expect the speedometer to to work? Let's just say neither of us are happy campers.
  • psmittypsmitty Posts: 2
    I was having problems with my 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 with the 5.3 engine. At times the engine would not accelerate past 1800 rpm's, the engine had poor performance, and the transmission was slipping. I recently had my truck to a GM garage, and after some research, the problems appear to have been solved. General Motors has a technical service bulletin out concerning aftermarket oil charged air filters, such as K&N. If too much oil is put onto the filter when it is recharged, some oil can transfer to the Mass Air Flow Sensor, and cause it not to work properly. Hard to believe, but true. The bulletin describes everything, including transmission slippage. A new MAF Sensor ($215) and my truck runs perfectly again. The GM mechanic was surprised that a MAF Sensor could cause improper transmission shifts. At no time did the vehicle computer show any codes for these problems. While driving the vehicle with GM's Tech 2 plugged into the computer port, there were improper readings on the O2 sensors in the manifolds, but these cleared up after the new MAF sensor was installed. Hope this helps.
  • okay, so this is my first post on this forum.... but after reading all the other potential problems i'll have with my sierra truck, this won't be my last. i have a 2000 gmc sierra 2wd v8 4.8... i can't find a chiltons, haynes OR helm manual for it and the local dealers here are putzes. i put my key in the ignition and after starting the truck, it would not dis-engage. i had to put the relays to stall the engine so my starter wouldn't be destroyed but even when i can shift into and drive in other gears and back into park... the key will not spring back out of the forward position. i haven't see nthis as a common problem, judging by the other posts here, so i figured one of yas might know how i can get my hands on a manual so i don't tear up my steering column. i have to go get a few parts after work, and all i have seen are a few screws under the steering column... please tell me there is nothing complicated in there. i am either changing the shifting cable or the ignition switch, hopefully the latter of the two... any thoughts? thanks nikki
  • okay, no one answered but i will post the result in case anyone was wondering. i removed the steering column cover and put a pin in the hole above the ignition, slid it out and figured out the problem right away. the springs under the cap had worked their way out and the cap was messed up. SO after talking to the local gmc dealer and for the second time them telling me i need to bring the truck in to have my key coded, bought a tumbler kit, replaced the springs and cap ad put the ignition tumbler backin it's place.
    The main reason I wanted to post this is there are a couple of things that the dealer has told me i had to bring my truck in to have something done and blatently lied to me. 1st, i bought a remote for the truck and when i went to pick it up, they told me i had to take the truck around back so they could program the remote. i thought, COOL! til they told me it would cost $45.00 to do because they have this big machine and blah blah blah. i gave them a few choice words and walked out. went on ebay later that night looking at remotes and found a remote for another vehicle with a link to program remotes free. in about 45 seconds i had my remote programmed, without a machine.
    and now this key tumbler deal. they told me they had a machine that would code my ignition key to the new ignition. $80.00 so, i politely looked up at the [non-permissible content removed] and asked him, why would i need a machine to do this? i have the 8 digit code and i have the old tumbler with ignition WITH the tumblers still in it. well the machine does all the work and your ignition won't work to your key. so, again with a few choice words, i walked out, went home and fixed it without a machine or more than two brain cells.
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