I went in to the dealer with a copy of Bulletin No.01-08-66-005 dated June 01 (Reinforcement Kit) to ask if it had been updated for the 2002 Sierra/Silverado. Parts guy said they had, and made me a copy. The cost for the two front brackets was $65 list. I'm sorry to say I misplaced the damn receipt and updated, so I can't tell you guys the difference between the two. Also for your information, I had my truck bed Line-X'd and the two front brackets do fit over the top railing(snug but not too snug). Hope the cost and fit info helps, it's my turn to start paying back this site for all the help this site gave me. Tom
did not find out about the brackets until I had shown him how the bed was splitting. This all happened about the time that the bulletin came out. At that point it's a little late. GMC has finally agreed to take care of it. Isn't it crazy that you have to strengthen a bed on a TRUCK to add tool boxes? I am just trying to get the word out on the weak beds. I have also had several other problems i.e. steering shaft, cracked rear window frame, drive shaft weight fell off, exhaust system falling apart. This is by far the worst vehicle I have ever had. Trucks should be for work, not built to only make it to the grocery store
See also 2000 GMC Sierra Tranny Trouble for my tranny woes.
I also have a problem with my emergency brake but have not had it investigated yet.
Drive shaft yoke - I have been making the dealership grease my slip yoke every 6000 mi to keep the squeak down. I am still having problems with a CLUNK in the rear when I change direction.
My Dealer shop foreman (He has a 2000 Sierra too) told me that GM told him the knock you guys hear in your 4.8, 5.3, 6.0L engines is due to undersized pistons in these engines. GM will only fix the 6.0L because GM uses the same block in the Caddy, he told me.
I also have a knock at highway speeds when the engine is slightly loaded. It sounds like an engine pulling up a hill with low octane fuel, but mine will do it with 94 octane Sonoco. I'm going to show it to the GM tech rep when I meet with him on the 21st to demand a new transmission.
For anyone who has had transmission hard shifting problems, note my post on "2000 Sierra Tranny" on 3/5/02. Major problem and an aftermarket fix that saved my second tranny.
hard cover installed on my '99 I noticed they installed support brackets on the inside of the front bedrails at the corners. I didn't ask why. That was the first cover I'd had installed professionally. I recently installed a cover on my '01 that I purchased from a Nephew who had it on a '99, and it also came with similar brackets.
in for coffee every Monday who has a '00 with a toolbox on it. Next time he's here I'll have to go out and look at his bed. Pretty sure they didn't put any reinforcement on when they installed it. (Aftermarket shop)
I had a hard cover installed on my 2001 2500HD long bed, and the company that did it installed brackets in the front corner. This was last Christmas. Previously I had not heard about splitting beds, so I guess they knew what they were doing. Very happy with it. cowboyjohn
In case you haven't figured it out, the bed sheetmetal on the top and sides of the redesigned trucks is very thin. The floor sheetmetal is still heavy, but probably for weight reasons GM cut back on the rest.
Jeezus! i guess this is one more thing to add to the list of complaints about the new trucks. I am sure glad this board is here especially since I was thinking about finally getting a toolbox this weekend. But I have noticed that pretty much on all trucks these days the sides and top of the bed just seems to get flimsier and flimsier, you certainly see enough of them on the road with crushed and crumpled areas working in construction sites.
all the little nooks and crannies that these trucks have for leaves to collect in? It drives me insane. I thought I had a new problem cos I kept hearing this sort of vibrating whistling noise. After a few days I finally figgured out that it was wind passing over these collected leaves just under the hood.
Does anyone have any ideas how to hook up a ax. fuel tank to the pressurized fuel tank on the Sierra 2500HD w/6.0L Vortex? This will be a Tool box/Ax. Fuel tank setup. My short bed p/u only has the small tank and eastern Oregon gas station sometime are far and few in between. Any suggestions? Tom
From what I have read in earlier posts on this issue, the covers that you have installed actually mount directly to the front bulkhead of the box, using no frame work such as a conventional truck cap, which puts stress on the sheetmetal? My ARE cover as I mentioned has a clamp on frame-no drilling into the truck at all.
Is it true that you folks in Oregon can't pump your own gas? I herd that self-service gas stations are outlawed there. Took a business trip to Florida with several guys from Oregon. We all rode in one car to go out for dinner, along the way the driver stopped for gas and they counted down from five...they all bailed out to see who could get to the pump first to be the lucky one to pump the gas themself. It was a riot! Even the locals that were at the other pumps thought it was a hoot to see four grown men jump from a mini van to get to pump the gas.
I purchased a leftover 2000 GMC (new) late last summer which now has 4000 miles on it. It is a Sierra 6400 GVW 5.3L, 3.73 Posi RE, 4x4 Ext Cab with long bed. Manufacture date of 7/00.
My question concerns the ride which is not near as good as the '89 Silverado 4x4 Ext Cab LB that was replaced. The old truck road as smooth as a car even though it had 115K on it. This new truck has a bucking type or chugging type motion (for lack of a better description) that is really accentuated by roads with tar strips. Usually the long wheel base helps on these tar strip joints. Even on ultra smooth black top this motion is noticeable at 40 - 55mph. It doesn't seem to be a wheel balance problem. My gut feeling is that it is due to an oscillation that develops between the suspension and drive train. Is this typical of this truck and chassis? I've read some of the posts on vibrations but this doesn't seem to be the same. I'd like to drive another but the Ext Cab LB combination is hard to find especially on the 1/2 ton.
I also have a slight pull to the right that usually requires that I keep a constant (counter clockwise) tension on the steering wheel. On some roads it isn't as much of a factor but on most interstates it is noticeable. I took it into the dealer last week and they did a full 4 wheel balance using the a new Hunter machine that simulates road forces. Also will try a new tire next week.
My wife has a 1999 GMC Sierra with the 4.8l V-8 with 40k miles on it. Up until a month ago the engine performance was pretty much flawless, but now, it has begun to stall at stoplights once or twice per day, and is hard to start about one in ten tries. Except for these problems, which only occur a couple times a day, and only last for about five seconds, the engine runs flawlessly. Since it's intermittent, I'm guessing the problem is electrical, not mechanical, like a bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter. The hard starting and stalling seems equally likely to occur whether the engine is hot or cold, there doesn't seem to be a pattern. Anyone experience a similar problem on a new Sierra/Silverado?
This is my first time here so bare with me. I have a 99 sierra 4.8 4x4 with a 4l60 automatic tranny. I'm having a problem with clanging noises form drive train while upshifting and downshifting and occasionally hard shift between 2nd and 3rd. I've been to dealer and they tell me its normal. I cant believe anyone would buy these trucks if they all did this. They replaced valve body, spider gears, flushed transfer case, re calibrated shift pattern none of this helped. Any info would greatly be appreciated.
have it nailed. On certain concrete highways a "bounce" develops at certain speeds. My '99 was 65, my '01 is 70. It's been pretty well covered here in the past. There's probably still a "Bouncing Betty" thread in the acrchives. I've recently come to realize that about 300 lbs in the bed does wonders for eliminating it.
Hello - I was going to post a follow up but I can't find my original posts. You might remember a couple weeks ago, I posted about my nightmare with GMC warrantee and my ABS brake system.
I went to GMC's corporate stockholder website. I found out who was in charge of different divisions. I tried about six different email configurations for each person. I sent emails detailing service dates and my problems. I also listed dates & names of all the people at the contracted out GMC customer service center who I talked with, who never called me back as they said and who always said we have to do more research....
I received a call from a very nice person with authority at GM on the Monday following my weekend email campaign. They authorized all repairs on my truck free of charge. They seemed sincerely sorry for the terrible customer service. The same day as they authorized this, I got an email from "GMC customer service" saying they would no longer talk to me about my problems and sorry that I didn't like their solution of not fixing the truck.
The squeaky, or in this case broken, wheel did get the grease this time!
First of all congradulations on your finally getting someones attention in GM Corporate.
Please list here and on Silverado Board the names & e-mail addresses you uncovered (that actually get delivered) of our corporate GM Dogs so we can all get on the campaign trail, it's activism like this that turns heads and MAKES people listen.
In response to you're cure for the harsh shifting, replacing tires?
I have had the same issue with hard shifting, mainly 1st-2nd. Probably the only complaint I have on my truck other than the fact it came with Firestones. I'm planning on changing my tires, probably to the new Michelin tires. It would be a pleasure to ditch these for the Michelin's, and hopefully that works. You went up to 265?
There is a new part which just came out, a stainless steel yolk which replaces the alloy. I had the clunk mainly from a dead stop to acceleration, but also on downshifts too. Replaced the yolk, and all is fine.
Since you don't have any place to go for help with the FEW Silverado problems you have, I just wanted to let you know you are welcome to use this GMC board, since you always welcomed us in your board. LOL Tom
I've had two fuel pumps on our work vehicles both fail at about 80K miles, neccesitating that the trucks be towed away. I'm wondering if the GMC fuel pumps are known to fail prematurely.
Most people I've talked to that have had fuel pump problems it was their own fault IMO as they always run the gas tank almost empty ( putting 25 gallons in a 26 gallon tank or just putting in a couple $$ of gas when the tank is empty). The fuel pumps are cooled by the gas submersion hence you should always keep at least a 1/4 tank full at all times. That's why your fuel light comes on & you go fill it up & find you still had 6 gallons of gas in the tank when the light came on.
Here's another question I have. Are the newer GMC trucks and SUVs equipped with Magnasteer? The reason I ask is because I have noticed when accelerating out of a sharp corner, i.e. at an intersection, the steering wheel "sticks" and will not wind back to neutral. I'm wondering if anybody else has noticed this problem, and if they feel the steering is a little too light.
light can usually be fixed by dialing in more castor. Unfortunately, in current model GM trucks that often involves taking out the knock-outs which can get a bit expensive. -- Don
By any chance do you have the part number for that Stainless Yoke? I'm running a whipple and tons of other mods and know I'll tear an equal replacement to what I already have to shreads in no time, if there is a stronger one, I NEED it Thanks!!!
We postponed doing the knockouts which would have been covered by the alignment warranty up until like 15,000 miles but we just let it chew through the crap bridgestone tires until about 19,000. Then we had the knock outs done (this on our 99 Suburban,,,I'm over here researching my new truck to be, thought I'd share) It cost $140!! The alignment improved but still had some pull. I bought my new Michelin LT C Rated tires then took it to a frame and alignment specialist who got the alignment perfect for $50.00. They do this with hand gauges - no machines. Claim there is too much variation and settling in of a truck so the machine is never quit right which probably explains why the dealer failed. This guy took it out three times to check his work. People like hime are gettin' rare.
Oh, and the Michelins ride like air compared to the stock tires. Expensive to buy and cheap to live with
I just got the bill for installing Rear Brake Caliper Guards and a funny mud flap on my truck ('99 GMC half-ton 4wd). I was losing air through one of the aluminum wheels. Dealer says gravel gets caught between the calipers and the wheel, and cuts grooves in the wheel. The calipers are so close to the wheel that there is no room should a stone bounce up there.They replaced the two rear wheels under warranty but hit me with a bill for $360 (CAN) for a kit of caliper guards and stone flaps (which mount in front of the rear wheels) to deal with what is certainly a design flaw. Our local dealer (Whitehorse, Yukon, Canada) has seen this problem before and continues to fight with Head Office to get this problem recognized as a design flaw, but to no avail. Apparently they feel that driving on gravel is an inappropriate use for one of their trucks.... Anybody else come across this problem? I'm new to the site, and haven't yet read through all 590+ postings. Thanks for the help! Tim
Several times I've had gravel get between the brake and the disk, or between the brake and wheel. I hear it, stop, back up until it goes away, and then continue. PITA, but, the noise just won't go away, and I don't want to damage anything.
Mostly this happened in Northern BC, Yukon, NWT and Alaska. Not much gravel in the lower 48 that I feel like driving 60 mph on. The speed might be a factor. Never happens when I'm off road or on trails.
I'll try to get a photo, once the rain lets up. No forest fires here!
The parts installed are from the dealer EXCEX1500 BRKT KIT ($93) MIST2220 BRAKE FLAP ($84.95)
I've never heard gravel in the wheels, or any of the noise that Mike L describes. And while we poke around pretty slowly through the Goldfields, on some of our gravel roads (Dempster HW, Taylor HW) we tend to move a bit faster than the speed limit....
Has no-one else had this problem? I've been running a finger over the inside edge of a few other GMC rear wheels since this repair, and I find grooves in most of them. Tim
I have a 2001 3500 with the 6.0 engine. The only problem I have is a lifter knock which goes on for 30 to 60 seconds upon restaring a warm engine. The idiot dealer sez they can not reproduce the problem, but everyone I know hears it.
I have 23,000 miles on it have tried regular and synthetic oils and use the "approved" oil filter.
It sounds like lifter tick right ? Get ya a cheap stethoscope or borrow one. Check along the fuel rails and injectors. Thats the noise ! Mine was driving me crazy untill the tech whipped his out and let me hear for myself. Fuel pulsing in the rails and injectors............geo
Did you leave the vehicle overnight for them to do a cold start up in a.m.?? Maybe you should have been there to be sure you aren't getting the run around from a dishonest service mgr./tech. My vehicle started "ticking" around 7k by 17k it was no longer a tick but a definate knock.
I think you have more than just a lifter tap, (that's what we all thought when we first heard the tick) It is actually the dreaded piston slap. This is a low end knock that mostly occurs during cold start up and goes away within first 30 to 60 seconds. The Piston Slap website will tell you what to do but follow thru with it, register your vehicle with the web page and file complaint on line with NHTSA. Then contact customer assistance to register your vehicle with GM and get a file number. Most of us are being issued extended component warranties for the engines 5/100k or 6/100k. Don't take any crap from GM, the value of your vehicle is being deminished by this problem. The "tick" or "knock" is not normal but that's what the dealers are being instructed by corporate to tell the customers. My only issue with the ext. warranty is this.. if I already have a 3/36k and GM won't fix it under that what guarantee do I have that they'll honor the ext. warranty ????
599 of 599 Yoke by themailman1 Jun 08, 2002 (09:27 pm)
I have the clunk. from stop to acceleration and they just greased the yoke and in works for a 100 miles. What is the part number for the new yoke?
In reference to your post, do you use the touchless car was that power wash under the truck. This could be washing out the grease on the drive shaft. Had the same problem really bad, regrease by the dealer several times. The fix , that some times work, is to go to a one piece shaft. My shaft is two piece and a stubborn dealer.
Since I stopped going through the touchless crash, after the last special drive shaft lube, no clunk.
599 of 599 Yoke by themailman1 Jun 08, 2002 (09:27 pm)
I have the clunk. from stop to acceleration and they just greased the yoke and it works for a 100 miles. What is the part number for the new yoke? _______________________________________________________________ In reference to your post, do you use the touchless car was that power wash under the truck? This could be washing out the grease\lube on the driveshaft. Had the same problem really bad, regrease by the dealer several times. The fix , that some times work, is to go to a one piece shaft. My shaft is two piece and a stubborn dealer.
Since I stopped going through the touchless [crash] car wash , after the last special drive shaft lube, no clunk.
Comments
Hope the cost and fit info helps, it's my turn to start paying back this site for all the help this site gave me. Tom
See also 2000 GMC Sierra Tranny Trouble for my tranny woes.
I also have a problem with my emergency brake but have not had it investigated yet.
Drive shaft yoke - I have been making the dealership grease my slip yoke every 6000 mi to keep the squeak down. I am still having problems with a CLUNK in the rear when I change direction.
My Dealer shop foreman (He has a 2000 Sierra too) told me that GM told him the knock you guys hear in your 4.8, 5.3, 6.0L engines is due to undersized pistons in these engines. GM will only fix the 6.0L because GM uses the same block in the Caddy, he told me.
I also have a knock at highway speeds when the engine is slightly loaded. It sounds like an engine pulling up a hill with low octane fuel, but mine will do it with 94 octane Sonoco. I'm going to show it to the GM tech rep when I meet with him on the 21st to demand a new transmission.
cowboyjohn
Any suggestions? Tom
My question concerns the ride which is not near as good as the '89 Silverado 4x4 Ext Cab LB that was replaced. The old truck road as smooth as a car even though it had 115K on it. This new truck has a bucking type or chugging type motion (for lack of a better description) that is really accentuated by roads with tar strips. Usually the long wheel base helps on these tar strip joints. Even on ultra smooth black top this motion is noticeable at 40 - 55mph. It doesn't seem to be a wheel balance problem. My gut feeling is that it is due to an oscillation that develops between the suspension and drive train. Is this typical of this truck and chassis? I've read some of the posts on vibrations but this doesn't seem to be the same. I'd like to drive another but the Ext Cab LB combination is hard to find especially on the 1/2 ton.
I also have a slight pull to the right that usually requires that I keep a constant (counter clockwise) tension on the steering wheel. On some roads it isn't as much of a factor but on most interstates it is noticeable. I took it into the dealer last week and they did a full 4 wheel balance using the a new Hunter machine that simulates road forces. Also will try a new tire next week.
Thanks,
Jonathan
I went to GMC's corporate stockholder website. I found out who was in charge of different divisions. I tried about six different email configurations for each person. I sent emails detailing service dates and my problems. I also listed dates & names of all the people at the contracted out GMC customer service center who I talked with, who never called me back as they said and who always said we have to do more research....
I received a call from a very nice person with authority at GM on the Monday following my weekend email campaign. They authorized all repairs on my truck free of charge. They seemed sincerely sorry for the terrible customer service. The same day as they authorized this, I got an email from "GMC customer service" saying they would no longer talk to me about my problems and sorry that I didn't like their solution of not fixing the truck.
The squeaky, or in this case broken, wheel did get the grease this time!
Sometimes you gotta go straight to the top dogg
Glad to hear all is well
Please list here and on Silverado Board the names & e-mail addresses you uncovered (that actually get delivered) of our corporate GM Dogs so we can all get on the campaign trail, it's activism like this that turns heads and MAKES people listen.
Ray T.
I have had the same issue with hard shifting, mainly 1st-2nd. Probably the only complaint I have on my truck other than the fact it came with Firestones. I'm planning on changing my tires, probably to the new Michelin tires. It would be a pleasure to ditch these for the Michelin's, and hopefully that works. You went up to 265?
I had the clunk mainly from a dead stop to acceleration, but also on downshifts too.
Replaced the yolk, and all is fine.
LOL
Tom
-- Don
By any chance do you have the part number for that Stainless Yoke? I'm running a whipple and tons of other mods and know I'll tear an equal replacement to what I already have to shreads in no time, if there is a stronger one, I NEED it
Oh, and the Michelins ride like air compared to the stock tires. Expensive to buy and cheap to live with
Mostly this happened in Northern BC, Yukon, NWT and Alaska. Not much gravel in the lower 48 that I feel like driving 60 mph on. The speed might be a factor. Never happens when I'm off road or on trails.
Mike L
The parts installed are from the dealer
EXCEX1500 BRKT KIT ($93)
MIST2220 BRAKE FLAP ($84.95)
I've never heard gravel in the wheels, or any of the noise that Mike L describes. And while we poke around pretty slowly through the Goldfields, on some of our gravel roads (Dempster HW, Taylor HW) we tend to move a bit faster than the speed limit....
Has no-one else had this problem? I've been running a finger over the inside edge of a few other GMC rear wheels since this repair, and I find grooves in most of them.
Tim
I have 23,000 miles on it have tried regular and synthetic oils and use the "approved" oil filter.
Anyone else have this?????
Get ya a cheap stethoscope or borrow
one. Check along the fuel rails and
injectors. Thats the noise ! Mine
was driving me crazy untill the tech
whipped his out and let me hear for
myself. Fuel pulsing in the rails and
injectors............geo
http://www.angelfire.com/tx5/gmpistonslap/index.html
Did you leave the vehicle overnight for them to do a cold start up in a.m.?? Maybe you should have been there to be sure you aren't getting the run around from a dishonest service mgr./tech. My vehicle started "ticking" around 7k by 17k it was no longer a tick but a definate knock.
I think you have more than just a lifter tap, (that's what we all thought when we first heard the tick) It is actually the dreaded piston slap. This is a low end knock that mostly occurs during cold start up and goes away within first 30 to 60 seconds. The Piston Slap website will tell you what to do but follow thru with it, register your vehicle with the web page and file complaint on line with NHTSA. Then contact customer assistance to register your vehicle with GM and get a file number. Most of us are being issued extended component warranties for the engines 5/100k or 6/100k. Don't take any crap from GM, the value of your vehicle is being deminished by this problem. The "tick" or "knock" is not normal but that's what the dealers are being instructed by corporate to tell the customers. My only issue with the ext. warranty is this.. if I already have a 3/36k and GM won't fix it under that what guarantee do I have that they'll honor the ext. warranty ????
Ray T.
I have the clunk. from stop to acceleration and they just greased the yoke and
in works for a 100 miles. What is the part number for the new yoke?
In reference to your post, do you use the touchless car was that power wash under the truck. This could be washing out the
grease on the drive shaft. Had the same problem really bad, regrease by the dealer several times. The fix , that some times
work, is to go to a one piece shaft. My shaft is two piece and a stubborn dealer.
Since I stopped going through the touchless crash, after the last special drive shaft lube, no clunk.
2000 ext 5.3 - 3.73 - 2x4 33,226 miles
I have the clunk. from stop to acceleration and they just
greased the yoke and it works for a 100 miles. What is the part number for the new yoke?
_______________________________________________________________ In reference to your post, do you use the touchless car was that power wash
under the truck? This could be washing out the grease\lube on the driveshaft. Had the same problem really bad, regrease by the
dealer several times. The fix , that some times work, is to go to a one piece shaft. My shaft is two piece and a stubborn dealer.
Since I stopped going through the touchless [crash] car wash , after the last special drive shaft lube, no clunk.
2000 ext 5.3 - 3.73 - 2x4 33,226 miles