I have a 2000 GMC 1500 blue, chrome wheels (with crappy GENERAL 660 RWL tires), shortbox, 4.3l, stepside 2wd with 19,500 miles. Truck has been sound so far with the exception of an annoying front driver side lean. Dealer has worked on it twice to no avail. Last answer was "yeah it leans but ride height is within factory specs". Wrong Answer! Anyone know why they can't balance this truck? Help!! It's such a beautiful truck and I get complemented on it all the time. I just hate the lean!! I have come inches from trading it in twice but everytime I look at it I just can't bear to do it!
The dealer measured out a difference of 3/8" for front left and 9/16" on rear left. He said he compared new vehicles on the lot and the side to side height difference varied from 1/8" to 3/4". Service department said GMC tech assist considers anything 1/2" or less is acceptable. They added two insulators to my front left coil spring and I noticed no difference. I took a floor jack and jacked the truck up from the front center frame and the left wheel is about 3/4" off the ground before the right front leaves the ground.
Have 2000 Sierra with the 5.3 with 43000k. When I first start the truck in the morning it starts fine, but after the first start some times I have to crank the truck over for 4 or 5 seconds before it wants to start again and then it takes a few seconds for the rpms to come up and the truck smokes. I replaced the fuel filter about 2000k ago. I have a few ideas, such as a bad fuel pump ar dirty injectors, but the smoking has me concerned. And the truck has never gotten the gas mileage I think it should. Thanks for any help
Have a 02' Sierra Z71 that started belching smoke out exhaust during start-up after 1200 miles. Is in the shop for the 4th time, now 10K miles. The dealer has replace the PCV valve and "other" components each time. I suspect it is a valve seal that is leaking by(I have to add ~1qt oil every 4000 miles).
Hey guys, I have lost information on some items that were previously posted and was wondering if y'all could help out. I not only have the yoke pop but I also have a noise generating from the leaf springs. I know there are bushings that can be placed in b/t the springs, does anyone have a part number for this. Also, a part number for the new stainless yoke would be great. I have 62K and am going to try to grease it before forking out the bucks to have it replaced. Also, does anyone have the link for the TSB's, I am specifically looking for the one on the throtle body sticking. Dealer said they would "clean" it, but I thought it called for replacement. My wife is going to rear end someone pretty soon if I don't correct it. Thanks in advance for your help.
I have a Sierra 1500 SLE Z71 extended cab w/5.3L. Since I've had it (3/2000) it's had somewhat unpredictable brakes. Initially, they would seem to loose pressure and the pedal would get increasingly mushy over a few weeks. The dealer drained the lines, replaced the fluid, and they seemed like new (and, afterall, they were!). Then it began again. The dealer claimed that the "pins" were binding and ground them. Some improvement. But not as good as the fluid replacement. Then I replaced the poor performing tires (Firestone Wilderness AT) with Cooper Discoverer AT (great tire). Braking became firmer, probably because the tires were stiffer. Now, at only 20,000 miles, as the tires wear it is beginning again. Fast. The brakes seem to be loosing pressure. It takes increasing amounts of pressure to produce the desired stop. The brakes definitely "work" but I am certain that pedal travel is increasing. As I am about to do the dealer thing again, are there any thoughts out there?
Oh yes, I also have the bad cold weather door fit (great info here at this site) and will be taking care of that. I've already had the steering problem (intermediate shaft) corrected. Otherwise the truck seams pretty good after two years and, aside from the brakes, has superb handling and performance characteristics. And I have the extended warranty. Thanks folks!
If I remember correctly there was a TSB issued regarding the brakes, the antilock system was suspect. Don't know the TSB number however. maybe someone else does......like Obyone??
I recently bought a new Sierra 1500. I didn't notice on the test drive, but soon after I got it home I noticed a noise that sounded like a growl or rattle at 40 mph. It seems like it only happens when I'm not accelerating very fast and being easy on the engine. Anyone have any ideas? I took it back to the dealer, but the mechanics said that GM doesn't have a fix. What gives? I'm concerned about GM's reliability. I haven't made my first payment yet and already I had it in the shop!
2000 1500 Sierra with paint peeling on the top of bed rails. Had a new cap installed. Cap tape was installed and cap was held with clamp down retainers.
Removed the cap after 3 months and at every spot where a clamp was installed (3 each side) the paint had started to actually peel (from the size of a dime to a pencil eraser) . It looks as though there was friction or stress at those points that actually caused the paint to lift. The paint chip itself has the edges lifting up and does not appear as an abrasion where the paint was worn down. I usually take the cap off over summer. I could only imagine how bad it would be if if had been on for a year.
The spots were not under the actual tape which was more to the outside of bed rail so it wouldn't be a chemical reaction with the tape. Anyone have anything like this happen?
Just visited the dealer. They've always been good to me (although I've seen too much of them over the years). They claimed the brakes were normal even with the seemingly "lost pressure" mainly because the truck stopped within spec. They claimed that ABS brakes always feel soft (which I think is bunk). However, as a courtesy, and experiment, they replaced the master cylinder with no argument from me (pretty good service, eh?). I see only slight tangible improvement at this point. We're about to embark on a two week trip in northern New Hampshire/Maine/Canada, with plenty of driving under load in all circumstances (from highway to rough logging road). We shall see. Thanks for the input!
Yes the paint peeled at each of the clamp positions. That overtightening sounds like a good possibility, although the cap shop may not want to admit it. I don't like the thoughts of re-spraying over the factory paint on the bed so I guess rail covers may be best alternative. Thanks for the reply and info.
I have had a problem with my bed rails tearing. I use the truck for work,so it has side tool boxes and a ladder rack. Has anybody else have or seen this problem ?
GM has a reinforcement bracket to use when mounting toolboxes to the bedrails. For weight purposes, the bedrails have been made of very thin material and will not stand up to the stress of a toolbox or any other rail mounted accessory. The parts department at any Chevy Truck or GMC dealer can get these for you.
I have 16,000 miles on my 2001 Sierra C3 and notice that my lights dim when driving and coming to a stop, especially the first stop I make (after the first few minutes of driving). Additionally, if I hit the electric window button up/down it dims the headlights and the whole dash panel. The ampmeter shows an insignificant drop but I fear that the problem will leave me stranded on a long trip. Anybody out there notice this? My friends Monte Carlo did the same thing, then his alternator began to whine and finally it died in the rain last week....leaving us stranded of course..... Thinking of demanding a new alternator under warranty...
Good Luck demanding anything from a GM service dept. There could be something going on internally with the alternator but a test of the system would be warranted to find out what, now the service rep will probably tell you it's normal because the cost of the labor to do the testing wieghed against replacing the alternator is what he has to consider. My 2 cents.
Does anyone know if there is a specific problem with the ABS control module on the 1999 sierra 2wd trucks? Mine has gone bad with 67,000 miles on the vehicle and a friend of mine had one go bad within 25,000 miles. His was warrantied and mine is going to be "out of pocket". This is a major expensive repair of nearly $1000 dollars. I was wondering if others have had such issues? Thanks.
My 1999 Sierra 4x4's controller just went out yesterday morning having just turned over 50,000 miles. WHAT A P.O.S.!!! I pulled the fuse to get it to stop pulsating. It is apparent from other GM post sites that many newer GM truck owners have this problem -- it is common.
I want to know if this is going to be 50,000 maintenance item or if the $1k I fork over will be for a redesigned modulator. GM must know that these are poorly built with all the parts on order! I've had it with this truck!
My 1992 sierra 2500 ext-cab long bed with 454 engine, runs good when its cold. but when it warms up the power drops off. it almost feels like the computer is taking timing away when I floor it, and if I let up on the gas a little bit it accelerates better than if its floored.is my knock sensor to blame? I don't hear any knocking. Does anybody know how to get good power out of a gen 4 big block?
I have a 2002 2500HD w/ext cab, and have a very annoying what feels to be a engine miss full time after moving or under load conditions and is there at all speeds but varies in duration. It feels as if I am pulling an empty dual axle (no springs) trailer. Dealer has spent time checking for any serious problem on the drive line and tires to no avail, what to do next?
Just received word last week that GMC is going to buy back my 2001 Sierra 2500 HD Ext Cab under the Georgia Lemon Law.
My attorney told me I should expect notice to deliver the truck back to a GM Dealer within 10 days and should have a check for full purchase price less prorated mileage within 10 days after that!!!
Hallaluja!!!!! Can't wait to head to my nearest Ford Dealer and pick out my new Ford F-250!!!
My brother-in-law had the same problem, no air to the carb, The 454 has the same air filter and system as the 350 but needs more air. He took off the stock air system and filter and bought an after market system with two open air filters, I forgot what brand, but now he has plenty of power for pulling and hauling horse trailers and etc. I drove the truck two weeks ago after he put the new system on. What a differences, at 40 mph it took off, being fully loaded and pulling a trailer loaded with 100 bales of hay and was doing almost 70 on the hwy with little effort. Good luck DT
I HAVE A 1999 GMC SIERRA 1500 PICKUP. AT ABOUT 57,000 MILES, I HEARD A HUMMING NOISE. I CALLED THE MECHANIC THAT I GO TO AND HE KNEW WHATE THE PROBLEM WAS. HE HAD 1 1999 CHEV 1500 TRUCK IN 3WKS BEFORE WITH EHE SAME PROBLEM. THIS IS A DESIGN FAULT ON THE 1999 GM TRUCKS. THE MODULE IS PULLING TO MANY AMPS. IT COST 1,600 TO FIX. I CONTACTED GMC AND THEY SAID THERE WAS NO PROBLEM. I HAVE CONTACTED OTHER GM & GMC DEALERS AND THEY TOLD ME THAT THEY HAVE REPLACED QUITE A FEW ABS MODULES AND PUMPS.
I have heard the same humming on occasion with my truck but never lasts long and never had any problems w/brakes to date other then warped rotors. Maybe I should have this checked out before my warranty expires in 3000 miles.
Just a couple of days ago, my 91 Sierra 5.0 liter (60K miles) developed a problem. It has two components which are undoubtedly related. First, idling is a problem. It will almost die, then resume normal speed. This cycling continues, especially when the engine is just started. It appears to improve, but not go away, once the engine warms up. The second is that acceleration appears to be poor, at least poorer than normal. This hesitation continues even with a warm engine. It might not be terribly noticeable to someone who has not operated the vehicle. The truck is still driveable, but certainly not as smooth as a few days ago. The things I have changed include: new PCV, new spark plug wires, new distributor and rotor, and new fuel filter. I added a can of engine cleaner thinking that I might have a problem with dirty injectors. I've only used a few gallons of gas since addition of the cleaner so it may not have had time to do its work. The timing checks OK. This may or may not have any relation to the problem, but my wife ran over a curb on the driver's side just before the problem was first noted. She didn't think anything scraped bottom but she did comment that it was quite a jolt. Any ideas about what to try next?
I have an '02 4.3L sierra and it has been to the shop four times so far. all of the sudden around 23,000 miles the truck started knocking and pinging really bad. as i got up to about 70mph though it would smooth out and start again as soon as i slowed down. first time to dealer they said, "moisture in a spark plug wire" so i had it back 3 days and it did it again--second trip "nothing wrong"--3 days after that i'm broke down--third trip --replaced distributor cap and rotor-- that seems to have solved the major problem, but the truck just doesn't run smooth anymore, so i took it back fourth trip "short in plug wire one"--just got it back yesterday and it still runs like crap. Can anyone help me? Is this a well known problem? Thanks
I was given a suggestion by one of the service techs I know, he suggests that you should add a fuel injector cleaner about every sixth tank of gas. I used Sea Foam in my truck and it does make a noticable change in performance in my truck. Gasoline today isn't as good as it was even a couple years ago. My truck was acting as if something was wrong with the ignition, but only turn out to be dirty injectors. A can of Sea Foam will set you back about $5, it is a simple way to nail down a problem if there really is one. Just a thought.
Thanks for the suggestion gvoigt, but it did not run like this until the first incident. It also has a pinging noise when i accelerate and it hesitates.
And the saga continues from last July. The slight improvement from the new master cyclinder quickly faded. My wife will not drive the truck (2000 Sierra extended cab SLE Z71)because she simply can't stand the brakes. Feedback is minimal, effort fairly high, curve unpredictable. I will bring it again back to the dealer so they can continue to scratch their heads and tell me nothing is wrong. It is NOT the way it rolled off the lot. I'll also have them fix the weather stripping, door hinges, and now I, too, have experienced the "drive train clunk" that seems to be a common problem. If Toyota Tundra came in a true four door I would consider an immediate move. This is my LAST American vehicle (a very painful statement). Certainly my last GM product. However, the truck performed beautifully on my summer trip and was absolutely excellent offroad (Cooper Discoverer AT tires are fantastic). But handling performance is not a substitute for poor build at this price point.
My brother-in-law has a 98 Sierra and when the ignition is turned on, a noise (high pitched buzzing) emanates from the tank. Is this noise normal or is it a sign that the pump is about to go? Thanks...Canayjun64
This is driving me nuts, I purchased a 2001 Gmc Serria 2 months ago. It has a little over 2000 miles in it. I found when I was trying to pass a rock hauler who accelerated in the middle of my pass that my governor cuts out the fuel pump at 85 miles per hour. I've been to two dealers and both say this is normal and the factory setting. GM customer service told me they were set at 95 mph, but will do nothing to help. Any suggestions????
mine also cuts off fuel flow @98 mph. if yours is cutting out earlier then the setting is wrong and should be corrected by dealer. But you may have a hard time convincing him why you need to go that fast (as if it's any concern of his) but it sounds like it's HIS preference to slowing you down.
If a woman can sue Burger King for spilling hot coffee on herself, think of the lawyer who subscribes to the "deep pockets" theory and what can be gotten from the technician who re-flashed your computer, or the dealership, or General Motors, if you go out and kill yourself or somebody else at 95 MPH.
While I do not believe in laws to protect people from themselves, the reality is that we are living in a very litigious era where new ways are found every day to shift the blame from the actions of oneself to somebody else.
If I were a service technician, I wouldn't do it. But maybe you could convince some poor unsuspecting service manager that it doesn't meet GM specs and get them to re-flash on that basis.
The problem I see with my truck cutting out at 85 is that when I was passing the rock hauler and he gassed it when I got up to the back of his cab is that I was stuck out there in the passing lane with no power to finish my pass. Sure there was other things I could do, but that sure is one heck of a time to find out some one has decided my truck should cut out at 85. Why would GM take it upon them selves to regulate my speed? And if that's the case why not 70 and do it to everybody. My problem is that the dealer should have made that plain during his salesmanship routine. I feel I've been misled and Gm will do nothing to correct this. As far as someone being responsible for changing the governor and me getting killed at over 85 miles an hour, I guess everyone that has been killed going over the speed limit has a case that their vehicle was able to go that fast.
..........read my previous note carefully. I'm in agreement with you. This is the problem of government deciding what is universally right and what is wrong when the vast majority of people are actually able to do this on their own.
I trust your judgement. The government does not. Hence, in an era where people no longer have the burden of responsibility to make intelligent or wise decisions on their own, they can expect compensation -- from somebody. Guess who its going to be? So the people that are ultimately responsible are committed to ensure that you act responsibly in order to protect themselves from litigation and commensurate financial ruin. That's why GM probably won't listen to you.
The idea of the governor is not to keep the driver from killing someone by going more than 98 MPH. The governor is put on the trucks to limit the liability of GM, or any other manufacturer.
Most tires made for light trucks are either Q or R speed rated. That is 99 MPH and 106 MPH respectively. The idea of the governor is to keep the truck within the rated speed limit of the tires.
Could you imagine the liability of a manufacturer in this day and age that would make a truck capable of reaching, say 130 MPH, and put tires on that had a maximum speed rating of 106 MPH?
Craig
If your dealer would not fix your governor problem, find a dealer that will. The factory setting is 98 MPH. This setting is still under the rated speed of the tires.
On the Z28 Camaro, the governer speed was based on the tires ordered on the car. If you got the high speed rated tires, the governor was set for one speed, for the lower rated tires, a lower speed.
on the y2k's and later there's an override function by pushing the dome switch 4 times. 99's don't have that, but the DRLs and auto lights can be overridden by depressing the parking brake pedal while the truck's still in PARK. If you have the parking brake cable set up loose you can shut the lights down without setting the brakes. The other way to deal with it is to buy and install an "adult mode" override from the aftermarket. -- Don
What kind of service? The 8.1 has 32k on it now and has been trouble free (the engine anyway),but for the last 1500 mi the light comes on occationally on start-up and stays on till I shut it off.
Comments
Did you confirm the 3/16" difference or is it more? Where did they take the measurements from? I'm thinking 3/16" would be unnoticeable.
Mike L
Oh yes, I also have the bad cold weather door fit (great info here at this site) and will be taking care of that. I've already had the steering problem (intermediate shaft) corrected. Otherwise the truck seams pretty good after two years and, aside from the brakes, has superb handling and performance characteristics. And I have the extended warranty. Thanks folks!
Ray T.
Removed the cap after 3 months and at every spot where a clamp was installed (3 each side) the paint had started to actually peel (from the size of a dime to a pencil eraser) . It looks as though there was friction or stress at those points that actually caused the paint to lift. The paint chip itself has the edges lifting up and does not appear as an abrasion where the paint was worn down. I usually take the cap off over summer. I could only imagine how bad it would be if if had been on for a year.
The spots were not under the actual tape which was more to the outside of bed rail so it wouldn't be a chemical reaction with the tape. Anyone have anything like this happen?
I think I'll put those bed rail guards on it now.
I know my trucks abs changed drastically (for the better) when i changed from the stock Fstone ATS (265s) to BFG all terrains (285s).
If it is sounds like the clamps were over tightened and that fractured the paint.
I use the truck for work,so it has side tool boxes and a ladder rack. Has anybody else have or seen this problem ?
Jim
Thinking of demanding a new alternator under warranty...
Ray T.
I want to know if this is going to be 50,000 maintenance item or if the $1k I fork over will be for a redesigned modulator. GM must know that these are poorly built with all the parts on order! I've had it with this truck!
Does anybody know how to get good power out of a gen 4 big block?
Dealer has spent time checking for any serious problem on the drive line and tires to no avail, what to do next?
My attorney told me I should expect notice to deliver the truck back to a GM Dealer within 10 days and should have a check for full purchase price less prorated mileage within 10 days after that!!!
Hallaluja!!!!! Can't wait to head to my nearest Ford Dealer and pick out my new Ford F-250!!!
TC
Normally, that is noticable, but not a problem - just an annoyance.
Mike L
Good luck
DT
Ray T.
Check the throttlebody base gasket. These things fail often.
Dusty
Walter (Gator)
Thanks Gator...
you can override this with an HPIII programmer. But however is that worth $300 plus higher rated tires (for speed?)
Ray T.
While I do not believe in laws to protect people from themselves, the reality is that we are living in a very litigious era where new ways are found every day to shift the blame from the actions of oneself to somebody else.
If I were a service technician, I wouldn't do it. But maybe you could convince some poor unsuspecting service manager that it doesn't meet GM specs and get them to re-flash on that basis.
Dusty
Craig
I trust your judgement. The government does not. Hence, in an era where people no longer have the burden of responsibility to make intelligent or wise decisions on their own, they can expect compensation -- from somebody. Guess who its going to be? So the people that are ultimately responsible are committed to ensure that you act responsibly in order to protect themselves from litigation and commensurate financial ruin. That's why GM probably won't listen to you.
Dusty
Most tires made for light trucks are either Q or R speed rated. That is 99 MPH and 106 MPH respectively. The idea of the governor is to keep the truck within the rated speed limit of the tires.
Could you imagine the liability of a manufacturer in this day and age that would make a truck capable of reaching, say 130 MPH, and put tires on that had a maximum speed rating of 106 MPH?
Craig
If your dealer would not fix your governor problem, find a dealer that will. The factory setting is 98 MPH. This setting is still under the rated speed of the tires.
Thanks
-- Don
Any thoughts or suggestions ?
kip