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GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions



  • horpanoshorpanos Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 GMC 1500 blue, chrome wheels (with crappy GENERAL 660 RWL tires), shortbox, 4.3l, stepside 2wd with 19,500 miles. Truck has been sound so far with the exception of an annoying front driver side lean. Dealer has worked on it twice to no avail. Last answer was "yeah it leans but ride height is within factory specs". Wrong Answer! Anyone know why they can't balance this truck? Help!! It's such a beautiful truck and I get complemented on it all the time. I just hate the lean!! I have come inches from trading it in twice but everytime I look at it I just can't bear to do it!
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    How heavy are you? That aside, what is the difference in height comparing the left to the right?
  • horpanoshorpanos Posts: 2
    The dealer measured out a difference of 3/8" for front left and 9/16" on rear left. He said he compared new vehicles on the lot and the side to side height difference varied from 1/8" to 3/4". Service department said GMC tech assist considers anything 1/2" or less is acceptable. They added two insulators to my front left coil spring and I noticed no difference. I took a floor jack and jacked the truck up from the front center frame and the left wheel is about 3/4" off the ground before the right front leaves the ground.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    the insulators are to prevent the springs from squeaking more than anything else.

    Did you confirm the 3/16" difference or is it more? Where did they take the measurements from? I'm thinking 3/16" would be unnoticeable.
  • bigskyguybigskyguy Posts: 2
    Have 2000 Sierra with the 5.3 with 43000k. When I first start the truck in the morning it starts fine, but after the first start some times I have to crank the truck over for 4 or 5 seconds before it wants to start again and then it takes a few seconds for the rpms to come up and the truck smokes. I replaced the fuel filter about 2000k ago. I have a few ideas, such as a bad fuel pump ar dirty injectors, but the smoking has me concerned. And the truck has never gotten the gas mileage I think it should. Thanks for any help
  • Have a 02' Sierra Z71 that started belching smoke out exhaust during start-up after 1200 miles. Is in the shop for the 4th time, now 10K miles. The dealer has replace the PCV valve and "other" components each time. I suspect it is a valve seal that is leaking by(I have to add ~1qt oil every 4000 miles).
  • mledtjemledtje Posts: 1,123
    The smoke part isn't right, but 1 quart every 4000 miles is not a problem.

    Mike L
  • jmackani1jmackani1 Posts: 1
    I have the same starting problem mentioned in post 606. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • opieoneopieone Posts: 5
    Hey guys, I have lost information on some items that were previously posted and was wondering if y'all could help out. I not only have the yoke pop but I also have a noise generating from the leaf springs. I know there are bushings that can be placed in b/t the springs, does anyone have a part number for this. Also, a part number for the new stainless yoke would be great. I have 62K and am going to try to grease it before forking out the bucks to have it replaced. Also, does anyone have the link for the TSB's, I am specifically looking for the one on the throtle body sticking. Dealer said they would "clean" it, but I thought it called for replacement. My wife is going to rear end someone pretty soon if I don't correct it. Thanks in advance for your help.
  • ldiamoldiamo Posts: 4
    I have a Sierra 1500 SLE Z71 extended cab w/5.3L. Since I've had it (3/2000) it's had somewhat unpredictable brakes. Initially, they would seem to loose pressure and the pedal would get increasingly mushy over a few weeks. The dealer drained the lines, replaced the fluid, and they seemed like new (and, afterall, they were!). Then it began again. The dealer claimed that the "pins" were binding and ground them. Some improvement. But not as good as the fluid replacement. Then I replaced the poor performing tires (Firestone Wilderness AT) with Cooper Discoverer AT (great tire). Braking became firmer, probably because the tires were stiffer. Now, at only 20,000 miles, as the tires wear it is beginning again. Fast. The brakes seem to be loosing pressure. It takes increasing amounts of pressure to produce the desired stop. The brakes definitely "work" but I am certain that pedal travel is increasing. As I am about to do the dealer thing again, are there any thoughts out there?

    Oh yes, I also have the bad cold weather door fit (great info here at this site) and will be taking care of that. I've already had the steering problem (intermediate shaft) corrected. Otherwise the truck seams pretty good after two years and, aside from the brakes, has superb handling and performance characteristics. And I have the extended warranty. Thanks folks!
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    If I remember correctly there was a TSB issued regarding the brakes, the antilock system was suspect. Don't know the TSB number however. maybe someone else Obyone??

    Ray T.
  • I recently bought a new Sierra 1500. I didn't notice on the test drive, but soon after I got it home I noticed a noise that sounded like a growl or rattle at 40 mph. It seems like it only happens when I'm not accelerating very fast and being easy on the engine. Anyone have any ideas? I took it back to the dealer, but the mechanics said that GM doesn't have a fix. What gives? I'm concerned about GM's reliability. I haven't made my first payment yet and already I had it in the shop!
  • surrfurtomsurrfurtom Posts: 122
    2000 1500 Sierra with paint peeling on the top of bed rails. Had a new cap installed. Cap tape was installed and cap was held with clamp down retainers.

    Removed the cap after 3 months and at every spot where a clamp was installed (3 each side) the paint had started to actually peel (from the size of a dime to a pencil eraser) . It looks as though there was friction or stress at those points that actually caused the paint to lift. The paint chip itself has the edges lifting up and does not appear as an abrasion where the paint was worn down. I usually take the cap off over summer. I could only imagine how bad it would be if if had been on for a year.

    The spots were not under the actual tape which was more to the outside of bed rail so it wouldn't be a chemical reaction with the tape. Anyone have anything like this happen?

    I think I'll put those bed rail guards on it now.
  • ldiamoldiamo Posts: 4
    Just visited the dealer. They've always been good to me (although I've seen too much of them over the years). They claimed the brakes were normal even with the seemingly "lost pressure" mainly because the truck stopped within spec. They claimed that ABS brakes always feel soft (which I think is bunk). However, as a courtesy, and experiment, they replaced the master cylinder with no argument from me (pretty good service, eh?). I see only slight tangible improvement at this point. We're about to embark on a two week trip in northern New Hampshire/Maine/Canada, with plenty of driving under load in all circumstances (from highway to rough logging road). We shall see. Thanks for the input!
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Do you still have the stock tires that came with the truck?

    I know my trucks abs changed drastically (for the better) when i changed from the stock Fstone ATS (265s) to BFG all terrains (285s).
  • peppe1peppe1 Posts: 54
    Is the paint peeling at the clamp positions?
    If it is sounds like the clamps were over tightened and that fractured the paint.
  • surrfurtomsurrfurtom Posts: 122
    Yes the paint peeled at each of the clamp positions. That overtightening sounds like a good possibility, although the cap shop may not want to admit it. I don't like the thoughts of re-spraying over the factory paint on the bed so I guess rail covers may be best alternative. Thanks for the reply and info.
  • beesampsonbeesampson Posts: 16
    I have had a problem with my bed rails tearing.
    I use the truck for work,so it has side tool boxes and a ladder rack. Has anybody else have or seen this problem ?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    GM has a reinforcement bracket to use when mounting toolboxes to the bedrails. For weight purposes, the bedrails have been made of very thin material and will not stand up to the stress of a toolbox or any other rail mounted accessory. The parts department at any Chevy Truck or GMC dealer can get these for you.

  • c3ownerc3owner Posts: 1
    I have 16,000 miles on my 2001 Sierra C3 and notice that my lights dim when driving and coming to a stop, especially the first stop I make (after the first few minutes of driving). Additionally, if I hit the electric window button up/down it dims the headlights and the whole dash panel. The ampmeter shows an insignificant drop but I fear that the problem will leave me stranded on a long trip. Anybody out there notice this? My friends Monte Carlo did the same thing, then his alternator began to whine and finally it died in the rain last week....leaving us stranded of course.....
    Thinking of demanding a new alternator under warranty...
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    Good Luck demanding anything from a GM service dept. There could be something going on internally with the alternator but a test of the system would be warranted to find out what, now the service rep will probably tell you it's normal because the cost of the labor to do the testing wieghed against replacing the alternator is what he has to consider. My 2 cents.

    Ray T.
  • fowvayfowvay Posts: 29
    Does anyone know if there is a specific problem with the ABS control module on the 1999 sierra 2wd trucks? Mine has gone bad with 67,000 miles on the vehicle and a friend of mine had one go bad within 25,000 miles. His was warrantied and mine is going to be "out of pocket". This is a major expensive repair of nearly $1000 dollars. I was wondering if others have had such issues? Thanks.
  • sierrapossierrapos Posts: 1
    My 1999 Sierra 4x4's controller just went out yesterday morning having just turned over 50,000 miles. WHAT A P.O.S.!!! I pulled the fuse to get it to stop pulsating. It is apparent from other GM post sites that many newer GM truck owners have this problem -- it is common.

    I want to know if this is going to be 50,000 maintenance item or if the $1k I fork over will be for a redesigned modulator. GM must know that these are poorly built with all the parts on order! I've had it with this truck!
  • mike378mike378 Posts: 1
    My 1992 sierra 2500 ext-cab long bed with 454 engine, runs good when its cold. but when it warms up the power drops off. it almost feels like the computer is taking timing away when I floor it, and if I let up on the gas a little bit it accelerates better than if its my knock sensor to blame? I don't hear any knocking.
    Does anybody know how to get good power out of a gen 4 big block?
  • I have a 2002 2500HD w/ext cab, and have a very annoying what feels to be a engine miss full time after moving or under load conditions and is there at all speeds but varies in duration. It feels as if I am pulling an empty dual axle (no springs) trailer.
    Dealer has spent time checking for any serious problem on the drive line and tires to no avail, what to do next?
  • etimbersetimbers Posts: 17
    Just received word last week that GMC is going to buy back my 2001 Sierra 2500 HD Ext Cab under the Georgia Lemon Law.

    My attorney told me I should expect notice to deliver the truck back to a GM Dealer within 10 days and should have a check for full purchase price less prorated mileage within 10 days after that!!!

    Hallaluja!!!!! Can't wait to head to my nearest Ford Dealer and pick out my new Ford F-250!!!

  • mledtjemledtje Posts: 1,123
    Your growl sounds like the torque convertor locking up, that happens about that speed with a light throttle.

    Normally, that is noticable, but not a problem - just an annoyance.

    Mike L
  • My brother-in-law had the same problem, no air to the carb, The 454 has the same air filter and system as the 350 but needs more air. He took off the stock air system and filter and bought an after market system with two open air filters, I forgot what brand, but now he has plenty of power for pulling and hauling horse trailers and etc. I drove the truck two weeks ago after he put the new system on. What a differences, at 40 mph it took off, being fully loaded and pulling a trailer loaded with 100 bales of hay and was doing almost 70 on the hwy with little effort.
    Good luck
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    I have heard the same humming on occasion with my truck but never lasts long and never had any problems w/brakes to date other then warped rotors. Maybe I should have this checked out before my warranty expires in 3000 miles.

    Ray T.
This discussion has been closed.