After 1500 miles, doubt that would be the case. I'd strongly suggest either getting autotap software or taking it back to the dealer to have the code read and reset.
Mine has been coming on too. 8.1 w/10.4k miles. Goes off after a day or so. The dealer checked it on the computer the first time and said there was not a code in the trucks computer(the light had gone off by the time the dealer looked at it). The owners manual says that it probably means a misfire or something like that. If it blinks on and off it says that could mean something more serious. Next oil change I'm going to have them put it on the computer and see if there are any codes in the trucks computer
The first time it happened.Changed the air filter,spark plugs and tried Mobil and Texico gas (I normally use Cheveron 87) The light comes on 2-3 times a week for the last 3 weeks. I guess a trip to the dealer is in order ,but I'd like to know more about autotap.
2001 Sierra, 5.3 with 14000 miles. While driving on the highway my service 4 wd light came on. I didn't have it in 4 wd since last winter. Does anyone know what this means?
I have a 2002 Sierra and the transmission misses downshifts. It doesn't do it all the time but if someone turns in front of me and I slow down then accelerate when the transmission tries to down shift it misses the shift and then when it does shift it shifts really hard. I have had the truck to the dealer 2 times already. They ordered and installed parts the first time that it was in and it didn't fix the problem. So the second time it was in they said that they couldn't duplicate the problem. It is scheduled to go back again. When it doesn't get fixed what are my best options? Should I get my own attorney? Should I call the BBB? Thanks for any help.
You don't need a lawyer.Not yet.I'd start with a different dealer.The problem could be electronic since your trans is controlled electronically.My '01 2500HD had the Allison trans replaced twice for similar probs.After I got them to reflash the Transmission Controll Module(TCM) I've driven 20k trouble free mi.
I haven't read much back history in these posting, but has anyone had oil consumption problems with their '01 Sierra's? I have been to my dealership a couple of times now. They changed the PCV valve and it helped slightly, but then gave me a letter to the dealerships from GM that states "Acceptable oil consumption for '01 Sierra with 327 engines (and a couple of other vehicles with the same engine) is 1 quart every 2000 miles"!!!!! Am I crazy or does this sound absurd? I have tried Synthetic oil...no help, regular 10-30 with motor honey....slowed a little and now went to straight 30 wt. Mine is using about 1 quart every 4000 miles. I realize that this is better than 1 quart every 2000 miles but it shouldn't use any oil. I only have 28,000 miles on it. It also knocks when you first crank it up...cold or hot weather. I know of at least 5 other people who are having the same type problem but none of us are getting any help from our respective dealerships. Any advise or knowledge would be helpful. Thanks, Billy
Well at 53,000 miles my truck engine died. Took this into the dealership($300) found out that 8 cly had no compression. took off the valve covers found that the spring had broken. and now the valves on that cyl will not keep the seal. So to fix that is $1,400. I though these were good trucks/engines? before I bought this, I had a ford got 165,000 miles on it never one problem. Anyone else ever hear of this problem at only 53k? I know this will be the last gm I ever own.
My 2K GMC Pickup (18K miles)has a brake pedal much softer than I am comfortable with. The stopping power is very effective but at a stop, with moderate/heavy pressure the pedal will go to the floor. Several other trucks I checked seem to have a similar condition. Please let me know on this board if your 1999 to 2002 GM pickups have the same problem or if the pedal is firm (as they were before ABS).
My dealer has replaced the master cylinder, rotors, pads and bled the system many times with no improvement.
As a result of trying to resolve this problem several brake problems which are routinely found on GM vehicles (especially trucks) came into discussion.
1. Brake rotors rust very quickly. Several days of no use can develop corrosion on the friction surface. (For example: My 2K GMC and 95 Buick).
2. Brake calipers (especially the inside rear) will frequently hang-up and quickly rust in place. This will definitely cause the rotor to rust.
3. Depending on the corrosion potential, regular cleaning and lubrication of the caliper sliding surfaces could eliminate the problem. In New Hampshire, every 6 months will be my schedule.
Before ABS systems, a soft pedal would be the result of air in the hydraulic lines. I was assured that the bleeding system they use is completely effective, I'm not so sure. They bleed from the master cylinder to the ABS module, then activate the ABS to pressure the rest of the system.
I would appreciate any information that would help to correct my brake problem.
I have been reading these tsb lately. and I'm wondering if this could have cause my engine problem with my valve springs breaking, and my intake valve not making a seal anymore? Could this be a problem?
Check out my postings regarding my brake experience (posting #611,615,637). There may be no solution to a poor design. I have noticed that the brakes actually seem to improve (and firm up)when there is a load in the vehicle. It's a very curious thing.
2000 2500 FWD. began feeling a rattle in the steering at about 40k when making turns on rough road. Now rattle can be felt driving straight or turning on all but the smoothest roads. Any experience along these lines?
Sounds like you have the infamous intermediate steering shaft problem, and your out of warranty. Do you have extended warranty ?? GM was replacing the intermediate steering shafts but since revised TSB to just lube instead of replacement.
may also be caused by torsion bars. Neighbor has '99 4WD and started getting the rattle big time. Minor adjustment on the torsion bars and no more rattle. I don't have the details, just know he was happy with the fix.
I have read all of the posts here and am aware of the problems discussed. I am wondering if there are similar problems with the Denali model before I decide to take delivery of a left over 2002 model? I do realize the added all wheel drive can pose it's own set of problems but am wondering if rear bounce and steering vibrations are applicable here?
Obyone, thanks for the input. I have been given a dealer's counter offer of $575 per month on a 60 month term, so I am gonna think about it. . . Is there anyting else I should be looking for?
I have a 99 sierra with the 6.0L,47k. And a 01 burb with the 5.3L, 38k. Both 4wd drives and both driven like I stole them. I have never have had any problems with either truck. Hope this off sets some of the negative reviews you have read. And makes your decision easier.
I have been driving GM vehicles for over 40 years and have had great luck with them. My last few pickups were 5.7's and were excellent.
I am sorry to say I now have a 2002 GMC Sierra
5.3 and it has bad piston slap at 15,000 miles and GM is not (at this time) going to remedy this problem and pawning it off as carbon buildup. So if I had it to do over again I would wait until GM has a fix for this problem.
Does anyone have insight on this. I have a 96 GMC Sierra 2500 with 49K miles on it. In the past week it has stalled six times. Four of the six times it stalled at exactly the same time as I turned on the turn signal and the other two times it quit while just driving along, once at appx 55mph and once at appx 45 mph. No warning, no sputtering, the engine just stops running. The service engine soon light does not come on when this happens and after about five or ten minutes it will start back up and we can continue on until it cuts out again. Prior to this I never had a problem with it stalling.
I have an '02 Sierra with the 5.7 engine. With primarily highway driving I am getting under 16mpg and I am looking to improve that. Is there anything I can do to improve the gas mileage? After market air filter? Better than stock exhaust?
Not much at all, remember it's a truck, their not built for mileage. I have not gotten any better than 17mpg with my Y2K 2500 Silverado w/5.3L, 3:73 rear & 2 WD running with no load on highway mileage. Some may say try the K&M filter setup, IMO don't waste your money you won't see an appreciable gain to warrant the cost.
GM has not used the 5.7 in their trucks since 1999. Just thought you might be aware if looking for mods for your truck, might be a frustrating experience finding anything for the 5.7.
I have a 2001 Sierra (2wd) with the 5.3 w/3.42 gears and get 16.5 consistently in everyday driving. And I have a heavy foot! On 200+ mile trips from Austin to Ft. Worth area I usually average 20 - 21 round trip. Varies some with the wind. I have a Flowmaster exhaust and have had an intake system (similar to K&N's FIPK) on and off. Better mileage with it off.
I recently installed a bug deflector on my 2002 Sierra. Now I am hearing a flapping noise at near the windshield. When I am driving I hear it on the passenger side and when I am sitting in the passenger seat I hear it on the driver side. It only seems to occur when I get above 65 mph. Has anybody else experience this problem?
Only happened after the bugshield install? Lund Interceptor is one of the best bugshields that doesnt touch the hood surface or require inserts, nor does it cause flapping noises. Is this what you have? If you go to the dealer with this problem they will blame the bugshield even though it could be the weatherstripping around the windshield.
Is the wind coming off the bug deflector and causing the windshield gasket to lift off the windshield and pop back. Mine sounded like little pebbles hitting the windshield.
I put a small bead of silicone sealer between the gasket and the glass on the sides of the windshield and no more noise.
With a throttle body replacement my gas mileage went from about 20 MPG to about 12 MPG. Any ideas out there other than the seasonal gas reformulation for Northern temperatures. My dealer has checked everything he can and found no cause.
Is anyone aware of any GM changes to the 2003 5.3 and 6.0 engines that will eliminate the piston slap issue? I have second hand information that the tolerances were changed.
I have a 01 Z71 and gear lube is coming out of the vent tube. It does it after i use the 4wd. It is not a lot but it makes a mess on the drive and on my fender wall. At my last oil change i asked if the fluid level was low and they said it was full. The 4wd when engaged on the road has always made a growl when accelerating but i was told it was normal. Thanks,
The Growl is when under gas, example cruise set a 60 mph. and you accelerate is when the tone changes. I use the 4wd in snow or ice situations on the HWY. The sound is not noticeable at slower speeds. The 4wd system works fine but the gear lube coming out of the vent tube has me puzzled. That is why i was wondering about the growl being related to the gear lube. I have had a full size blazer, jimmy and a Toyota all 4x4 and none made that sound or pumped gear lube out. Thanks,
Since you are going 60mph, the ice and snow are not covering the entire road, probably not even most of it. With most of the road being clear pavement, is it possible that you have enough traction that the 4wd system is starting to bind up? You have to have some slippage to allow the front and rear drives to synchronize. When turning, the two ends drive at slightly different speeds, and that causes the 4wd system to start to bind up.
You could verify this by shifting back to 2wd for a second. That would relieve any binding in the 4wd system. Then shift back into 4wd. If the noise is gone for awhile, that is probably what is happening. If the noise doesn't go away at all, then something else is happening.
I've never had my 4wd engaged at speed. Most of the time in 4wd I'm off the road at low speeds. If I'm on the highway and in 4wd, it is snowing heavily, the road is covered and packed and my speed is closer to 25mph.
Mike i grew up driving in this stuff so going 60 in 5 inches of snow is no problem, it does go away when in 2wd and also reduced when in auto. What do you think of my gear lube problem? Thanks for the reply.
Comments
The owners manual says that it probably means a misfire or something like that. If it blinks on and off it says that could mean something more serious. Next oil change I'm going to have them put it on the computer and see if there are any codes in the trucks computer
kip
http://www.autotap.com/products.html
kip
kip
I know of at least 5 other people who are having the same type problem but none of us are getting any help from our respective dealerships.
Any advise or knowledge would be helpful.
Thanks,
Billy
Well at 53,000 miles my truck engine died. Took this into the dealership($300) found out that 8 cly had no compression. took off the valve covers found that the spring had broken. and now the valves on that cyl will not keep the seal. So to fix that is $1,400. I though these were good trucks/engines? before I bought this, I had a ford got 165,000 miles on it never one problem.
Anyone else ever hear of this problem at only 53k? I know this will be the last gm I ever own.
GM Makes a 327 engine?
The 5.3 is actually a 325
Ray T.
My dealer has replaced the master cylinder, rotors, pads and bled the system many times with no improvement.
As a result of trying to resolve this problem several brake problems which are routinely found on GM vehicles (especially trucks) came into discussion.
1. Brake rotors rust very quickly. Several days of no use can develop corrosion on the friction surface. (For example: My 2K GMC and 95 Buick).
2. Brake calipers (especially the inside rear) will frequently hang-up and quickly rust in place. This will definitely cause the rotor to rust.
3. Depending on the corrosion potential, regular cleaning and lubrication of the caliper sliding surfaces could eliminate the problem. In New Hampshire, every 6 months will be my schedule.
Before ABS systems, a soft pedal would be the result of air in the hydraulic lines. I was assured that the bleeding system they use is completely effective, I'm not so sure. They bleed from the master cylinder to the ABS module, then activate the ABS to pressure the rest of the system.
I would appreciate any information that would help to correct my brake problem.
Ed
Ray T.
Hope this off sets some of the negative reviews you have read. And makes your decision easier.
I am sorry to say I now have a 2002 GMC Sierra
5.3 and it has bad piston slap at 15,000 miles and GM is not (at this time) going to remedy this problem and pawning it off as carbon buildup. So if I had it to do over again I would wait until GM has a fix for this problem.
Check out this website http://gmpistonslap.tripod.com/
Thanks - Matt
Ray T.
I put a small bead of silicone sealer between the gasket and the glass on the sides of the windshield and no more noise.
Mike L
2K GMC SIERRA 5.3 Regular Cab, Short Box
Ed
Ray T.
I just ignore it.
Shoot, if these trucks were as noisy as any of the old 60's and 70's cars or trucks you wouldn't be able to hear the knocking.
Mike L
- Rain?
- Dry road?
- Heavy snow?
- Dirt road?
Mike L
My moms blazer also does the same thing. Her 4wd module did go out recently but that didnt have anything to do with the growl
Since you are going 60mph, the ice and snow are not covering the entire road, probably not even most of it. With most of the road being clear pavement, is it possible that you have enough traction that the 4wd system is starting to bind up? You have to have some slippage to allow the front and rear drives to synchronize. When turning, the two ends drive at slightly different speeds, and that causes the 4wd system to start to bind up.
You could verify this by shifting back to 2wd for a second. That would relieve any binding in the 4wd system. Then shift back into 4wd. If the noise is gone for awhile, that is probably what is happening. If the noise doesn't go away at all, then something else is happening.
I've never had my 4wd engaged at speed. Most of the time in 4wd I'm off the road at low speeds. If I'm on the highway and in 4wd, it is snowing heavily, the road is covered and packed and my speed is closer to 25mph.
Mike L