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GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Thanks!
Ben
I just got back from an extensive trip to Canada pulling my 5th wheel. Just about every hill I climbed caused the cooling fan to come on. My temp. guage didn't budge off 190 degrees the whole time. There didn't seem to be any reason for it to come on as my partner who has the same truck and pulling a larger trailer didn't have any problem with his coming on. His temp. stayed about the same as mine.
I know that the fan somehow works like a viscous clutch and I've heard that they are not really accurate. Does anyone know just what temp. the fan should come on. It doesn't seem to ever want to shut off once it has been activated. Took it to the dealer and tried to get some help there from
the service dept. but all he could say was that it was doing what it is supposed to do. He couldn't even tell me how it worked but said it should come on between 180-210 degrees.
Sure could use some help here with this.
After almost 300 miles,today I noticed fresh oil on the driveway again.Could this be a new leak ??
I now have 1800 miles on my new truck and more oil on my driveway.Is this Professional Grade ??
I also have the hard shifting problem [noticed it when test driving it} from 1st to 2nd gear. It is only getting worse. If anyone has found a solution to this problem PLEASE let me know because the BtoB warranty runs out Jan. 1 of 2004.
Jim
The update is that the dealer determined that the tire is the problem with the left pull. So they have ordered (under warranty) a new one and will call when it is in. I’ll let you know how that goes. The hard shift for the transmission was solved via a computer update. It DID solve the problem. It did it hot or cold so now I need to test it and see how long the fix lasts. Nice and smooth now.
On another note; I have the Z71 w/towing package. What size trailer in tonnage is to much for this truck. The wife wants me to get us a camper but am a little dumb on just how to figure the GVW and stuff like that. I pull a small U-Haul box trailer once in a while but she is talking about a BIG boy now.
Any feedback would be welcomed.
A lot of people fail to heed this GVW and end up overloading their vehicles or getting trailers to heavy when loaded for particular vehicles requirements.
As an example, I have a 2000 3/4 ton Silverado Ex. Cab 2wd/auto/3:73 rear. My max GVW is 7200 lbs. My trailer comes out to 6000 loaded leaving me 1200 lb buffer for fuel, passengers/equipment.
Hope this helped.
Mailman: Dealer should cover everything if your still under warranty, if the bumper rust is on backside forget it, if coming thru on chrome surface it's a warranty issue on the "rust protection" end of warranty, 5yrs. I believe. Rotors are not normally replaced under warranty unless they exceed the limits for turning down. Did you have them turned simply because they had rust on them ?? If truck sits for a while that is natural and won't hurt a thing.
Ray T.
Ray T.
Can you help me figure out what the tonage capacity is for the bed. You mentioned that yours is a 3/4 ton. How does one figure this out?
Thanks for your help...
Clear as mud now ???
Ray T.
This is rating for truck only but hitch weight has to be added also
Truck empty is 5000 plus 2 people 300 plus a tank of gas 200 plus trailer hitch weight 700 lbs
eguals 6200 lbs which is OK 200 lbs to spare
Now I beleive this truck has a GCWR (Gross combination weight rating of 13000 lbs.
take the 6400 lbs and subtract the hitch weight and this becomes 5700 lbs
Now take 13000 lbs and subtract the 5700
gives you a trailer weight of 7300 lbs you can pull
"When I worked in an automotive engine test lab -dynamometer tests - we often had to calculate the brake specific fuel consumption (BSFC) of the test engines. We had a chart for fuel density vs temperature for our fuels that was updated monthly. As I recall, the typical weight of gasoline at 72 degrees F was around 6.25# per gallon. As it became cooler it became more dense and thus weighed more and above this temperature it was less dense and a gallon weighed less.
Any suggestions... and yes I have RTM.
Engine seems to rattle/ping under light acceleration or constant highway speed with normal engine warmed.
Erik & Jtt3. thanks for the education!
Ray T.
My doors still seem to be out of wack along with my tailgate that seems to be rubbing on the bed. The latest has been the steering shake and rattle which has been repaired and still is not right. The dealer repacked the steering shaft and then replaced the steering shaft. The dealer told me it was just the nature of the vehicle, well it was not the nature of the vehicle when I drove it off of the lot and for the first 18,000 miles.
Has anyone had any similiar steering wheel shake problems?
I will say that due to your list of problems, have you thought about going lemon law or buy back?
I have driven mainly Fords with virtually no problems at all. I originally wanted the F150 Supercrew as well,but the rebates and discounts on the Sierra were worth it at the time. It still is a sharp looking truck but I bought it to drive not just look pretty.
If legal counsel is not able to help, what do you think about selling it outright and or trading it in? I know you will take a hit, however you have to weigh the decision of taking the hit, vs your time, money, and lack of having the truck etc e.g. (in the shop all the time). The real answer you must ask yourself is what will give you POM.
This is truly the first time I have purchased a GM product that I am having second thoughts about. Every other GM vehicle I have owned didn't make its presence known. I just got in, cranked it up and drove as needed and everything worked as designed and was comfortable and I didn't have to ask why in the &*@%$@^ did they designed it like this or that. I am debating selling outright and get a different brand for the first time in my 20 some-odd year of driving.
Been there done that !
Ray T.
This problem is usually worse in the summer, and goes away in the winter because the fuel lines don't get hot enough sitting with the engine off to flash vaporize when the pressure drops.
My 2 cents worth
Ray T.
Ray T
i own a 2003 Seirra Z71 4x4 5.3L Trans clanks loud when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd -3rd to 2nd sometimes harshly. usually happens when coasting around a corner or going up a hill at low speed then speeding up. Ive been to the dealer twice for this problem. They told me it is normal for a 4x4 because it has to have play in the driveshaft. Does anyone have this problem. Thanks
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-042A
Date: December, 2002
INFORMATION
Subject:
Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise
Models:
2003 and Prior Light Duty Trucks
with 4L60E or 4L65E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32)
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2003 model year as well as information about 3-2 downshift Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-042 (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Some vehicles may exhibit a clunk noise that can be heard on a 2-3 upshift or a 3-2 downshift.
During a 2-3 upshift, the 2-4 band is released and the 3-4 clutch is applied. The timing of this shift can cause a momentary torque reversal of the output shaft that results in a clunk noise. This same torque reversal can also occur on a 3-2 downshift when the 3-4 clutch is released and the 2-4 band applied. This condition may be worse on a 4-wheel drive vehicle due to the additional tolerances in the transfer case.
This is a normal condition. No repairs should be attempted.
I bet one of them thar magnets could fix it ! bwahahahahaha
Sorry couldn't resist !
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 02-07-30-030
Date: August, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Transmission 1-2 Shift Shudder, Vibration, Slips, Chuggle
(Install Generator Voltage Sense Circuit)
Models:
2001-2003 Chevrolet Silverado
2001-2003 GMC Sierra with 4L60-E Automatic Transmission (RPO M30)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the transmission slips, a shudder, chuggle, or vibration is felt when the transmission shifts from first to second gear.
Cause
A 12 Hz electrical feedback from the charging circuit may be affecting the transmission pressure control solenoid, causing a fluctuation of the line pressure within the transmission.
Diagnostic Tip
Road test the vehicle under the following conditions:
^ Throttle position is less than 15 percent. Engine coolant and transmission fluid are at full operating temperature.
^ The outside ambient temperature is warmer than 24°C (75°F).
If the condition is present, disconnect the generator 4 cavity connector (2 wires in the connector) and retest. If the condition is no longer present, perform the correction listed below.
If the condition remains unchanged, the condition will not be corrected with this procedure. Look for other causes of the condition.
Correction
Install an external sense lead to the generator assembly.
This is accomplished by adding a wire from the generator four wire connector to the generator output BAT terminal.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery/batteries.
2. Slide the protective boot on the generator BAT terminal aside and remove the retainer and wire cable from the BAT terminal.
3. Unplug the generator 4-cavity terminal from the top of the generator.
4. Remove and save the orange weatherpack seal and CPA from the 4-way connector.
5. Using the proper terminal removal tool, remove the two wires from the 4-way connector.
6. Install a red cavity plug, P/N 12059168, into cavity "A" of the new 4-way connector, P/N 12186568.
7. Install the brown (Circuit 25) wire of the vehicle wiring harness into cavity "B" of the new 4-way connector.
8. Install the gray (Circuit 23) wire of the vehicle wiring harness into cavity "C" of the new 4-way connector.
9. Obtain a piece of 0.80 mm/18GA black wire, 254 mm (8 in) long.
10. Install a red terminal seal, P/N 12048086, and terminal, P/N 12048074, (crimp and solder) on one end of the new black wire.
11. Install the new black wire into cavity "D" of the new 4-way connector.
12. Reinstall the connector seal and CPA, from the original connector, to the new connector.
13. Plug the 4-way connector into the generator.
14. Route the black wire to the generator BAT terminal, sliding the wire into the small end to the output terminal boot, along side the generator output wire.
15. Crimp and solder the ring terminal, P/N 02977821, on the open end of the new black wire.
16. Place the generator output wire and the new black wire onto the generator BAT terminal and install the retainer.
Tighten
Tighten to the BAT terminal retainer to 9 N.m (80 lb in).
17. Connect the negative battery cable.
Tighten
Tighten the battery cable retainer to 17 N.m (13 lb ft).
Parts Information
Parts are expected to be available 8-15-2002 from GMSPO.
-David