I have a 2000 F250 SD V10 CC SB 4X4. I installed the Procomp leveling kit (2") and a 1" block on the rear. Since then I have had a vibration in the drive line. From what I've heard no drive line angle adjustments are need. Only when a 6" lift is installed they shim the middle drive line bearing. The dealer has now tried shimming the axle, the transfer and middle bearing. It's better but under hard acceleration the drive line still shakes at 20mph.
Anybody have any experience with this type of situation?
Anytime you do a lift (other than body lift) on the rear, you have to watch the diff angles etc.. The dealer is on the right track by looking at the angles..
Is this a Ford dealer that did your lift? I didn't know they'd do that..
I installed the blocks - although this dealer sells their SDs with 4" kits installed by 4 Wheel parts is So. Cal.
It's back at the dealer today because they left the rear pinion u-bolt clamp loose (this doesn't help the drive line) So far they have been pretty cool about working on this problem even though its not stock.
I have a question - I have noticed that some SD drive shafts have a huge dampening ring on them. My doesn't - any input?
My husband and I are getting ready to order a 2002 F-350 Crew Cab Lariat longbed 7.3L diesel, 6-speed manual, camper pkg, heated seats, trailer tow mirrors, roof clearance lights, electric shift-on-the-fly 4WD, Class V hitch, 2-tone paint, not sure of the color yet. The dealer quoted us an out the door price of $38,005 ($37,482 + $240 winterization, $88 licence, and $195 Doc fee), not too shabby in my book, especially for Alaska. The MSRP on the truck is $41,155. I can't wait to get the new Ford and sell our GMC.
I do have one question......what kind of fuel economy are you guys getting with the Powerstroke? Our 6.5L GMC gets 18 to 20 mpg, of course its a gutless wonder too.
My SuperDuty supercab short bed has a dampening ring on the end of the driveshaft.. hmm.. Check other SD's like yours to see if they have a dampening ring.. maybe your onto something..
I own an early 2000 F-250SD Crew Cab and got stuck with the non-telescoping power trailer tow mirrors(probably because Ford needed to get rid off all the '99 mirrors). I recently crunched my drivers side mirror and the only replacement Ford has is the telescoping. I am having a heck of a time getting a mirror ordered from my local Ford dealer. I am wondering if anyone out there has either a drivers side non-telescoping mirror or a set of telescoping mirrors for sale....
I own an early 2000 F-250SD Crew Cab and got stuck with the non-telescoping power trailer tow mirrors(probably because Ford needed to get rid off all the '99 mirrors). I recently crunched my drivers side mirror and the only replacement Ford has is the telescoping. I am having a heck of a time getting a mirror ordered from my local Ford dealer. I am wondering if anyone out there has either a drivers side non-telescoping mirror or a set of telescoping mirrors for sale....
Help!!! I just bought a Lance 945- 11"3 camper and I absolutely love it. The problem is I can not find the tire's with the load capacity to handle the weight of my truck with the camper on it.
My truck is a 2001 F-350 Lariat long bed single rear wheel 4 X 4 crew cab 7.3 powerstroke desiel. The weight over all with the truck and camper is 10,820 lbs with half a tank of gas and the camper with no liquids. My truck weighs 7,700 lbs and the camper around 3,100 lbs. My rear axle weight is 6,280. If I add more gas (full tank), 10 gal. of water for my camper, and the tounge weight of my water craft trailer i'm up to almost 6,900 lbs on the rear end!!!! And thats not including the stuff i'm gonna haul in the camper.
You see this is all new to me. The sales man said " No problem your truck is fine" when i bought the camper. But the service guy who did the air bags and mounted it said i'd better weigh it also my tires were in no way gonna handle the load. My tires are BF Goodrich AT 285 75 R16's load range D at a load capacity of 3,305 lbs per tire. The highest I can find is 3,415 lbs load range E 265 75 R16's.
Is there anyone who has a truck and camper like mine and is in the same situation or know what the limits are? Am I ok with the tires I have or do you know of any higher rated tires? I can't find any!!! I don't want to be right at my maximum or over what my tires will allow.
Please help me....any suggestions I would very much appreciate because I really want to keep my camper and of course my truck!
Thank You. Help!!! I just bought a Lance 945- 11"3 camper and I absolutely love it. The problem is I can not find the tire's with the load capacity to handle the weight of my truck with the camper on it.
My truck is a 2001 F-350 Lariat long bed single rear wheel 4 X 4 crew cab 7.3 powerstroke desiel. The weight over all with the truck and camper is 10,820 lbs with half a tank of gas and the camper with no liquids. My truck weighs 7,700 lbs and the camper around 3,100 lbs. My rear axle weight is 6,280. If I add more gas (full tank), 10 gal. of water for my camper, and the tounge weight of my water craft trailer i'm up to almost 6,900 lbs on the rear end!!!! And thats not including the stuff i'm gonna haul in the camper.
You see this is all new to me. The sales man said " No problem your truck is fine" when i bought the camper. But the service guy who did the air bags and mounted it said i'd better weigh it also my tires were in no way gonna handle the load. My tires are BF Goodrich AT 285 75 R16's load range D at a load capacity of 3,305 lbs per tire. The highest I can find is 3,415 lbs load range E 265 75 R16's.
Is there anyone who has a truck and camper like mine and is in the same situation or know what the limits are? Am I ok with the tires I have or do you know of any higher rated tires? I can't find any!!! I don't want to be right at my maximum or over what my tires will allow.
Please help me....any suggestions I would very much appreciate because I really want to keep my camper and of course my truck!
I'll look at the numbers when I have the book in front of me at home, but I do think it will show that your overloaded.. Most folks I know that get the large in-bed campers opt for the F350 with DRW (dual rear wheels). The DRW's increase the load capacity by a significant amount, and you don't run into a tire capacity limitation because you have 4 tires to spread the load instead of 2..
I didn't think there was a load range above E for normal trucks..
Maybe I'll be wrong and others will have more positive news for you.. The silver lining in the cloud is now you have an excuse to buy a new truck..
Called a differant Ford Dealer today and I asked if Ford had a fix yet for the noise, he replied that they did and it would only take about 30 minutes to fix. He said they had plates that went above & below the springs, didn't really get into. He said to call ahead and they would get it in & out while I wait. He was much nicer then the other dealer. I'll get it taken care of next week and let you all know of the fix.
I just bought a used 2001 F350 Dually 4X4, 4.10 rear end with 10K miles. Driving it back 60 miles from where I bought it, the mileage read out said I averaged 18.5 miles per gallon. This was mostly flat terrain and at a speed of 57 MPH more or less. I also drove through two small towns, a little more that wide spots in the road. I thought this was pretty good. Yesterday, I had the oil changed with new air and oil filter. I also had the rear end fluid replaced as I was getting some limited slip noise on slow turns. The rear end oil cleared that up. Now today, I hooked up my 25’ Contender with trailer weighing 8000 lbs. I expected to get some where between 11 MPG on the low side and maybe 13 MPG on the high side. I drove it 80 miles and at 55 my best mileage was about 9.2 and at 63. I was getting an average of 8.5, about the same as my Suburban had got pulling it. (Chevy: 3/4 4X4 6.0 engine and 4.10 rear end.) To say the least, I am very disappointed! I checked the fuel used over a total of 140 miles and I averaged 11 MPG, including the 60 miles I got 18.5 MPG. Question: Is there anyone out there pulling a boat around the same weight, T Top, with a Ford diesel that can give me some idea of what I should be getting in the way of Diesel mileage? I know 4X4 and the 4:10 rear end cost some mileage. Also the Dually only has 235/75/16’s, compared to a lot of ¾ and other F350’s having 265/75/16’s. Is there something wrong with my F350 or is this normal? Any input appreciated. Skipjack
Tire inflation makes a big difference. Are you up at maximum when towing a load? If not top off the tires and check again. Also, you may want to pull in overdrive on flat level ground. The 4.10 rear end should keep you in the right rpm range as long as you do not lug the engine you may see some gains.
I test drove a 00 F250 4x4 PSD with 6 speed manual trans. I am thinking of purchasing this truck to tow a 5000 pound travel tralier on soft beach sand. I currently have (and will keep) a 00 Chevy Silverado Reg cab V-6 auto 4x4 that I tow with currently.
I drove on some rough road and the doors and extended cab doors rattled. I could see the doors actually moving in and out on potholes. When I close the drivers door I can see the extended cab doors move! I tried a second truck and found the same thing. Is this normal? One of the things I like about the Silverado is that it is vault solid with no rattles, but I have a Reg cab.
I also noticed that it was hard to keep the PSD in the power band with the 6 speed manual trans with the truck empty. I have to drive in heavy city traffic and merge on expressways everyday. The PSD has a lot of power but it seems that just when things are going good I have to shift and start all over! Does the automatic trans help here?
It bothers me that my V-6 automatic will eat this thing for lunch 0 to 60 when both are empty and get the same gas mileage.
Can't vouch for PSD - I have an '01 crew cab 350, long bed,V10 with 5 speed . With the B-pillar between the front and rear doors, the crew cab is solid and doors don't flex. (I do have squeaky front springs though, and cab mounts had to be tightened when truck was 3 mos old to stop a popping noise on turns.)
The PSD weighs about 600 lbs more than the V10, so I think that added weight up front coupled with less stiff extended cab causes the door flexing you're seeing. A lot of folks upgrade their PSDs with chips, etc. But you can't compare a PSD Super Duty to the V6, the Ford's curb weight is probably 3000 lbs greater than the Chevy's, and it'll pull your trailer and the Chevy backwards at the same time and hardly complain.
Post your questions about Diesel performance over on http://forums.ford-diesel.com, there's a whole slew of folks over there who can answer any question you pose.
I desperately want to replace at least the speakers in my 2001 F250 SC. Any ideas? I think the stereo is fine (AM/FM/Cass/CD), I just need different speakers, (amp?) and probably a sub. Price isn't much of an issue but would like to keep it below $500. I've read in the past things people have done, and would like to get more ideas.
Thanks for the input, but not sure why I can't compare the PSD with my V-6 Silverado. I agree that under load the PSD is a powerhouse, but unloaded my V-6 kicks the PSD, even with the auto! My Gtech meter states the 0 to 60 on the V-6 is 9.2 seconds. Did not time the PSD but it feels like about 12 secs. I was not able to keep it in the power band with the 6 speed unloaded because I had to shift just when the power was on.
The problem is that I don't think I use the truck loaded enough to take advantage of the PSD. I tow 5000 lbs a lot in the summer on beach sand with the V-6 and in low range, but I can't say I lack power. I think in low range I could break a ujoint before I stall the driveline.
So why did I look at the PSD? For one thing, my V-6 only gets 7 mpg towing at 75 mph! I see why they put a 34 gallon tank on it. I also want a crew or super cab truck and think the Fords look great. Finally, I know I tax my current truck and wanted a truck with a lot of driveline reserve.
The key is to close the rear doors tightly.. theres an upper and lower latch.. Because the doors are small, short and light, it almost feels like you have to slam them for them to shut tight.. However now I've noticed I don't have to shut them as hard..
Another possibility is that they might not be installed/adjusted correctly, but it's probably more just the case where they wern't closed all the way..
For use in soft sand pulling a load an auto may be the ticket. You would have to be an exceptional driver to shift fast enough to stay in your powerband from a dead stop pulling your 5000 lb anchor. An auto does a better job of maintaining constant power to the wheels to get you on top of the sand and keep you there. A word of caution though. Do not lug your engine. The only thing on your truck that generates heat nearly as much as an engine is an auto tranny.
A buddy wants to replace his '97 F250 4X4 Power Stroke LB, with new PSD 250 or 350. He tows a fifth wheel on which he had to flip the axels to obtain enough height for the hitch. His concern is bed height on the new rigs, it seems higher than the '97. A local dealership mentioned removing the blocks on the new rigs suspension lowering the new truck.
It doesn't matter what powerplant you have, if you tow a travel trailer at 75 mph you are going to get crappy mileage! I used to own a Chevrolet Silverado with the 5.3 V8 and averaged 13.9 mpg towing a 4500 lb travel trailer. The trick was I usually tow at 60 mph (the limit in CA is 55 when towing).
If 0-60 times are important then DO NOT buy a Super Duty with a PSD and a 6-speed manual transmission. Empty a PSD with an auto will run off and leave a 6-speed. The reason is every time you shift a turbocharged engine with a manual transmission you lose boost and have to start over. Add in the fact that the ZF 6-speed is a HD transmission (which refuses to be shifted fast) and the truck is just not all the quick.
However, if you bought your Super Duty to haul and/or tow with and you know how to deal with the narrow powerband of a diesel engine the 6-speed manual is a delight. My truck will accelerate up a 6% grade in 6th gear when most other vehicles are struggling simply to maintain speed
As for an empty V-6 powered Silverado outrunning my SD to 60 mph, SO WHAT! Load the Chevy to it's GVWR of 6400 lbs THEN take on my 7100 lb (empty) F350 and see who gets to 60 mph first and who gets better mileage doing it! IT WON'T BE THE CHEVY!
If I drove with the truck loaded most of the time I wouldn't be here, I would be driving my 6 speed PSD! Unloaded, how I drive a lot, makes the most difference to me. I drive in fast moving traffic and the 6 speed PSD was almost too slow for a merge in to 75 mph traffic. The truck is too expensive to make a mistake and not like it.
The reason I went looking is because towing on the beach I cracked the front diff on the Silverado. I really wanted a stronger driveline and better gas mileage. I agree that 75 mph towing a 8 foot wide trailier will yield bad milage, but I think the PSD would be about 40 percent better. Since I only tow about 2k miles per year that only amounts to a few dollars in savings and unloaded driving will yield about the same mileage. I just can't figure out any savings.
Finally, I can't deal with high repair costs and 15 quart oil changes. I have read stories of 4,000 dollar injector replacements. My research has proven that the PSD is not for me. It sure was a nice looking truck!
By the way, next time I put a ton in the Chevy I will time it 0 to 60 with my Gtech meter. I think it would be close to the PSD unloaded! That 200 hp V-6 with 3.73 gears does more than it should. I drove a 00 PSD, the new ones might be quicker.
The semi I drive only puts out 300 hp but over a thousand pounds of torque. Conversly my banshee quad with a tricked out motor puts out over a hundred horses but I wouldnt pull another 300 pound bike with it!
Well i received a call from my dealer thurs eve stating my truck was in,couldn't be happier.I drove out their friday only to discover large 12"in scraches on the pass side door vehicle color is dark shadow gray w/black..needless to say i was very pissed off.Body man came out to the lot and stated it was just surface and could be buffed out no problem..Went back there today to take delivery because the truck was allset and as good as new..Well they were full of [non-permissible content removed]!! the door was still scratched plain as a day they were able to get some of the damage corrected but it still looked like crap!now they state the may have to wet sand it and reapply the clearcoat..has anyone on this board had this type of expierance if so what should i do..cancel the order and go elsewhere or let them fix it?2002 lariet..this is really disappointing, not to mention the vehicle was covered in a white dust from the buffer machine and thats how they presented the truck for delivery today.
That really is an uneducated statement. Furthermore, they are functions of each other. This means if you know either HP or torque at a given RPM you can calculate the other. HP is the ability to do work. Torque is a force. When an engine is placed on a dynamometer torque is the product measured, HP is calculated from that.
One reason the big gas V-8s and V-10s walk around the unmodified diesels on hill climbs is because of their higher HP ratings. The diesels have higher torque ratings, but at lower RPMS. This means they can't use gearing as effectively. At 5252 RPMs torque and HP are equal. The formula is, HP = torque * RPM / 5252.
Speaking of uneducated statements, HP is not the ability to do work. HP is the rate at which work is being performed. Furthermore if HP is desired over torque for climing hills under a load then why do all the gas rigs run at an rpm more conducive to their peak torque rating than screaming near maximum rpm where the peak HP rating is? One of the advantages of a diesel is the ability to produce high torque at low rpm to get maximum efficiency. This explains the ignorance of your next incorrect statement. The big gas V8 and V10's have near the same torque ratings as diesels. They simply have to move faster (HP) to produce it. Therefore they are much less efficient. Finally you say that diesels are incapable of utilizing gearing as well as a gasser. That is the most asinine display of uneducated statements yet! Diesels have a very narrow powerband compared to gassers. This is why they need more gears to utilize. This is why some 18 wheelers have 18 speed transmissions and none of them have gasoline engines.
You are slitting hairs over English semantics. If the engine did not do the work yet, a HP rating would be its ability to do work. I did not say that HP was preferred for climbing hills! High torque at low RPMs has nothing to do with efficiency.
If you read my post more slowly you would realize that we are saying almost the same thing on gearing. Because of the narrow power band a diesel will need more gearing, thus not using it as effectively. I am not an English major and it is hard to believe this started because I stated the HP on my Chevy- that was not even the point!
"That really is an uneducated statement" Those are pretty harsh words given the inaccuracy of the information you provided following that little dig. I am aware of how little room I am leaving for minor infractions of language but it was you who claimed a perfectly factual statement was uneducated. Albeit imperfectly stated I am well aware of the attributes of each type of engine. With hundreds of thousands of hauling miles under my belt I feel I am qualified to determine a general and commonly known fact that diesel power is preferred for heavy hauling. Loosely translated, HP doesn't mean squat when pulling a load. If you read that post more slowly you would have seen it was an accurate generalization. Also..."One reason the big gas V8s and V10s walk around the unmodified diesels on hill climbs is because of their higher hp ratings" Sounds a lot like you did say hp is preferred for climbing hills. You also said high torque at low rpm has nothing to do with efficiency. Low relative rpm is the key to the efficiency of a diesel. I know this is not 100% accurate but it is a large factor. Isn't it odd that given two engines that produce 500lbs of torque, one gas the other diesel. The gas engine will have a maximum rpm range of approximately twice as fast as the diesel and use approximately twice the amount of fuel. Turning half as fast to produce the same force has everything to do with efficiency. This nasty business started with hypocrisy. Expecting to the letter accuracy from other posts then generalizing your own replys. If you are going to pick apart other people you had better be on the ball yourself and clearly you were not.
Torque and HP are functions of each other. Try to understand this concept and the physics behind it. HP is derived from torque. That said, I don't understand how it could not be a factor pulling a load. Without HP you would not be able to pull your load. Torque is just a force.
Low RPMs are not the reason a diesel is more efficient with fuel. Volumetric efficiency and BTUs per gallon of fuel are the main factors. The diesel wins on both counts. RPMs only slightly increase friction and can be negated when both engines are turning the same speed, such as highway driving.
I looked at a V-10 SD this weekend. I have spent a lot of time driving a V-10 loaded in the past and was always surprised on how it performed. If I can get over the extra cab doors rattling on rough roads I may consider this option.
Try to understand this concept. Yes torque and hp are functions of each other. We have been over and over this. Torque=Force HP=time taken to apply force. Specifically 33000 foot pounds per minute All of this technojargen doesn't mean squat. By your logic a tricked out 300 hp volkswagen bug given the same gearing would pull a load up a hill as well as a 300hp diesel. It will not! Torque and hp are factors of each other but they are vastly different measurements. I stated this generally in the first post of this little battle #130. You have tried to pick this concept apart with technically inaccurate information since then. You are wrong. You are also wrong about rpm not being a factor in efficiency. Where do you think the lower volume comes from? Two roughly equal displacement engines, one turning half as fast as the other will be more volumetrically efficient. Again not technically perfect but a large factor that you ignore just trying to be right.
Actually gasoline has more BTU's per gal than diesel does, I just thought I would throw that in. As a general rule if you want to pull a heavy loadd Torque is more desirable if you want to go fast HP is more important. The main reason for this is the size of the engine required for each application. In order to develope high torque a larger displacement engine is generally needed the reason for this is due to the fact torque is generated by the pressure generated by combustion acting on the top of the piston and thusly rotating the crankshaft. So in essence you could have a one piston engine that developed 1000lb-ft of torque if you made the piston big enough the dowfall is that you are only going to get like 100RPM out of it. That would give the engine under 2 HP. To make HP you need lots of RPM Generally if the engine does not rev over 3500 RPM it has very low HP numbers. A perfect way to see examples of this is look at a motorcycle engine they have 200 HP and displace maybe 2L. To get that they have to rev 10000 RPM the trade off is torque. In a truck you have 200HP and 250lb-ft of torque the way to accoplish this is increase the displacement and lower the RPM. See it is easy and like said before "clear as mud". As a general term torque is usable power and Hp is available power.
I hate this, but here it goes. Gasoline only has 119,800 BTUs per gallon, diesel has 140,400. Diesel has more BTUs per gallon. This is an easy look up on the net.
Your 1000 ft-lb, 100-RPM engine actually produces 19 HP, not 2 HP. This is an easy sub in to the equation I posted above.
My logic does not equate a 300 hp bug to a 300 hp diesel. You guys are reading stuff that is not here! HP and torque are not vastly different measurements! They are the same measurement expressed in different units.
The funny part of this is I never expressed if I wanted HP or torque from my engine. Many assumptions were made here. I only used physics and logic.
...because you all know what you mean. But to the impartial observer (me), I agree with the position of abc246, expressing the problem with the concept of physics, and not introducing confusing analogies based on truck engine experience.
As long as you throw RPM into the mix with Torque and HP, knowing any 2 of the 3 terms means you can always solve algebraicaly for the 3rd.
I dont mind your being in agreement with abc. Whatever gives you the most insight for your particular needs suits me just fine. The only reason I have been ranting on with this debate with abc is he has been so rude and condescending as well as inaccurate sometimes. You'll notice my posts have been as much about venting on his mistakes and the way he states them as they have been on on the subject. I spent a while last night writing a scathing post to put an end to this but when I submitted it nothing posted. I may try again if the mood strikes me. To all the impartial observers, am I being stupid? Would any of you take offense to the way abc has been posting if you were me? PFFLYER, you have been around here forever. What do you think? ABC, is your tone intentional or are you oblivious to what some(namingly me)might take as your being antagonistic and degrading?
Let's just ease back from the positions a bit, OK? This has been a perfect illustration of how things can build up towards flame wars on the message boards. We're not there yet, but all the signs are there. Taking exceptions to specific words that are used, etc...
One of the hardest things to do on a message board is saying exactly what you mean and having others understand it. It seems that everyone interprets things in a different way. But it will help if you try to remember that these boards are supposed to be enjoyable. Remember that people ARE going to disagree with you from time to time, but don't let that cause things to degrade into a spitting match.
The posting on Town Hall show a depth of knowledge and a passion for cars and trucks that is just amazing. Let's keep it enjoyable as well as informative!
You're both coming to the subject from a different point of view. The discussing/arguing of different points often clarifies things for the observer. Personalizing things, by either party, does nothing to advance or clarify the matter. If you are attacked, rise above it. It will be obvious to the observer who has better class. There are NO winners in a flame war.
If you make a long post, copy it before you post it. Then if Town Hall loses it, you can just paste it back in and re-post it.
Please take the above as a non-personalized observation from a long time lurker :-)
Went to start my truck last Sunday after it spent the day parked at the MX track.. It would start, go to 1200 rpms, then down to 0 rpms.. A few times, it would try to idle at 100 or 200 rpms, but bascially the truck wont idle at rpms that low and just dies. After 5 or 6 tries of that, I was able to keep it running as long as I was giving it some gas.. It ran and reved smoothly but if I let off of the gas, it would stall.. So I knew I wouldn't be completely stuck, but things could get a little challenging at up-hill stop lights. (I have a 5sp). I tried a few more times to see if it would idle, but no luck.
Being that there were only a few stops ( 1 stoplight) and 20 miles between the track and home, I figured I'd take it home so I can unload it before taking it to Ford.. At the stoplight I still had to heel-toe it to keep it running but other than that it ran fine..
When I got home it was just fine, no problem at all.
The problem occured the next 2 days as well, not in the morning (after sitting all night), but in the evening (after sitting all day).. Also, it only stalled once or twice on those occasions before returning to normal..
From looking on other boards I think the most likely culprit is the IAC (idle air control) unit.. I have an appt for next Wednesday to see what the local Ford dealership has to say..The truck just turned 30k miles.
I'll keep ya'll posted on what Ford says and how it turns out..
Had the same problem last year with my 99 V10 auto. It was the Idle Air Control. My dealer knew exactly what was wrong from my description, and had the vehicle fixed the same day I called.
Luckily, this problem is a challenge, but won't necessarily leave you stranded.
Bess, yep, sounds like the culprit. check over in the ford-diesel "gasser" section, there has been some talk about this valve within the past few weeks. If you scroll back on this forum, I mentioned this as part of a general information posting to the "new" guys. I had mine replaced about 2-months ago...exhibited vapor lock type symptons, would die backing out of drive first thing in the morning, etc... However, from what I have read this is more common on the V-10's than the V-8's. Good luck....
Good to see you again.. Yep, on the SuperDuty the problem is reported more on the V10 vs. V8.. hmm, probably because there are alot more V10's in SD's than the V8, hehe.. I also checked the F150 online site (prior to calling ford), and it seems that folks there with the 5.4L have also experienced the IAC problem.
Hi all. Well, as of 10/6, I became the proud new owner of an '01 250XLT CC 4X4. I've been drooling over 250SDs since they came out in '99, and after driving it, I knew this was the truck! I just wanted to say thanks to all who have taken the time to post messages on this board. The information I got from all these posts really helped me to make up my mind and buy! Now, time to start accessorizing! I was wondering if any of you have installed the FoMoCo bug deflector on your SD, if you're happy with it, and if it required drilling or not. Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks!
WCdan I put the FOMOCO bug deflector on my SD and no you are not supposed to have to drill anything. It was kinda flimsy so I added about four screws and now its pretty tight. It looks good but I not sure it deflects to many bugs especially the big ones. Hope this helps. Frank K.
I got my new 250 on 9/27/01. It,s black sc 4x4 with off road pkg. Regarding the bug deflector, I just installed one a few days ago. I got it at my local auto parts store " murray's " in michigan. It's made by Autoshade Co. " Bugflector II " part # 25727. At $39.99 it's a bargain & a great product. No holes to drill, the holes are predrilled under the hood, & installed in 3 minutes. It contures the body, but still leaves room to wash under. Plus it has a lifetime warranty. Next I,m getting the Rhino liner put in & a hard folding tonnue cover that is lockable. Oh Yea I also got a remote starter put on for $88 at cartunes , since I park outside this comes in handy for those cold days.
Thanks very much for the info! I think I'm gonna head to the aftermarket for this one.
WhiteF250- I did find a Bugflector II in Pep Boys, but it had a different part # (45706) and it retailed for $52.95. It seems like this is a different one than yours. Also, it comes with the little clear hood 'bumps', so the deflector doesn't rub, which I was trying to avoid. Did yours come with the little bumpstops too? Also, did you have any hood to grille clearance problems after you installed it? Thanks again!!
Comments
Anybody have any experience with this type of situation?
The dealer is on the right track by looking at the angles..
Is this a Ford dealer that did your lift? I didn't know they'd do that..
It's back at the dealer today because they left the rear pinion u-bolt clamp loose (this doesn't help the drive line) So far they have been pretty cool about working on this problem even though its not stock.
I have a question - I have noticed that some SD drive shafts have a huge dampening ring on them. My doesn't - any input?
I do have one question......what kind of fuel economy are you guys getting with the Powerstroke? Our 6.5L GMC gets 18 to 20 mpg, of course its a gutless wonder too.
Check other SD's like yours to see if they have a dampening ring.. maybe your onto something..
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks,
Jim
My truck is a 2001 F-350 Lariat long bed single rear wheel 4 X 4 crew cab 7.3 powerstroke desiel. The weight over all with the truck and camper is 10,820 lbs with half a tank of gas and the camper with no liquids. My truck weighs 7,700 lbs and the camper around 3,100 lbs. My rear axle weight is 6,280. If I add more gas (full tank), 10 gal. of water for my camper, and the tounge weight of my water craft trailer i'm up to almost 6,900 lbs on the rear end!!!! And thats not including the stuff i'm gonna haul in the camper.
You see this is all new to me. The sales man said " No problem your truck is fine" when i bought the camper. But the service guy who did the air bags and mounted it said i'd better weigh it also my tires were in no way gonna handle the load. My tires are BF Goodrich AT 285 75 R16's load range D at a load capacity of 3,305 lbs per tire. The highest I can find is 3,415 lbs load range E 265 75 R16's.
Is there anyone who has a truck and camper like mine and is in the same situation or know what the limits are? Am I ok with the tires I have or do you know of any higher rated tires? I can't find any!!! I don't want to be right at my maximum or over what my tires will allow.
Please help me....any suggestions I would very much appreciate because I really want to keep my camper and of course my truck!
Thank You.
Help!!! I just bought a Lance 945- 11"3 camper and I absolutely love it. The problem is I can not find the tire's with the load capacity to handle the weight of my truck with the camper on it.
My truck is a 2001 F-350 Lariat long bed single rear wheel 4 X 4 crew cab 7.3 powerstroke desiel. The weight over all with the truck and camper is 10,820 lbs with half a tank of gas and the camper with no liquids. My truck weighs 7,700 lbs and the camper around 3,100 lbs. My rear axle weight is 6,280. If I add more gas (full tank), 10 gal. of water for my camper, and the tounge weight of my water craft trailer i'm up to almost 6,900 lbs on the rear end!!!! And thats not including the stuff i'm gonna haul in the camper.
You see this is all new to me. The sales man said " No problem your truck is fine" when i bought the camper. But the service guy who did the air bags and mounted it said i'd better weigh it also my tires were in no way gonna handle the load. My tires are BF Goodrich AT 285 75 R16's load range D at a load capacity of 3,305 lbs per tire. The highest I can find is 3,415 lbs load range E 265 75 R16's.
Is there anyone who has a truck and camper like mine and is in the same situation or know what the limits are? Am I ok with the tires I have or do you know of any higher rated tires? I can't find any!!! I don't want to be right at my maximum or over what my tires will allow.
Please help me....any suggestions I would very much appreciate because I really want to keep my camper and of course my truck!
Thank You.
Most folks I know that get the large in-bed campers opt for the F350 with DRW (dual rear wheels). The DRW's increase the load capacity by a significant amount, and you don't run into a tire capacity limitation because you have 4 tires to spread the load instead of 2..
I didn't think there was a load range above E for normal trucks..
Maybe I'll be wrong and others will have more positive news for you.. The silver lining in the cloud is now you have an excuse to buy a new truck..
The GVWR for the dually is 11200. Which is just right for what your doing..
Yes I have to agree with you guys. I'm definetly over loaded. I listened to the camper dealer instead of looking into it myself.
The dealer told me if I could show him in my manual that the load capacity is lower then the camper weight he'd take the camper back.
How do I increase my GVWR? I know that i'm allowed 5,200 lb on the front axle and 6,830 lb on the back giving me a total of 12,030 lbs.
I drove on some rough road and the doors and extended cab doors rattled. I could see the doors actually moving in and out on potholes. When I close the drivers door I can see the extended cab doors move! I tried a second truck and found the same thing. Is this normal? One of the things I like about the Silverado is that it is vault solid with no rattles, but I have a Reg cab.
I also noticed that it was hard to keep the PSD in the power band with the 6 speed manual trans with the truck empty. I have to drive in heavy city traffic and merge on expressways everyday. The PSD has a lot of power but it seems that just when things are going good I have to shift and start all over! Does the automatic trans help here?
It bothers me that my V-6 automatic will eat this thing for lunch 0 to 60 when both are empty and get the same gas mileage.
The PSD weighs about 600 lbs more than the V10, so I think that added weight up front coupled with less stiff extended cab causes the door flexing you're seeing. A lot of folks upgrade their PSDs with chips, etc. But you can't compare a PSD Super Duty to the V6, the Ford's curb weight is probably 3000 lbs greater than the Chevy's, and it'll pull your trailer and the Chevy backwards at the same time and hardly complain.
Post your questions about Diesel performance over on http://forums.ford-diesel.com, there's a whole slew of folks over there who can answer any question you pose.
Paul
The problem is that I don't think I use the truck loaded enough to take advantage of the PSD. I tow 5000 lbs a lot in the summer on beach sand with the V-6 and in low range, but I can't say I lack power. I think in low range I could break a ujoint before I stall the driveline.
So why did I look at the PSD? For one thing, my V-6 only gets 7 mpg towing at 75 mph! I see why they put a 34 gallon tank on it. I also want a crew or super cab truck and think the Fords look great. Finally, I know I tax my current truck and wanted a truck with a lot of driveline reserve.
Because the doors are small, short and light, it almost feels like you have to slam them for them to shut tight.. However now I've noticed I don't have to shut them as hard..
Another possibility is that they might not be installed/adjusted correctly, but it's probably more just the case where they wern't closed all the way..
Might anybody have experience with this?
thanks
Jerry
However, if you bought your Super Duty to haul and/or tow with and you know how to deal with the narrow powerband of a diesel engine the 6-speed manual is a delight. My truck will accelerate up a 6% grade in 6th gear when most other vehicles are struggling simply to maintain speed
As for an empty V-6 powered Silverado outrunning my SD to 60 mph, SO WHAT! Load the Chevy to it's GVWR of 6400 lbs THEN take on my 7100 lb (empty) F350 and see who gets to 60 mph first and who gets better mileage doing it!
IT WON'T BE THE CHEVY!
The reason I went looking is because towing on the beach I cracked the front diff on the Silverado. I really wanted a stronger driveline and better gas mileage. I agree that 75 mph towing a 8 foot wide trailier will yield bad milage, but I think the PSD would be about 40 percent better. Since I only tow about 2k miles per year that only amounts to a few dollars in savings and unloaded driving will yield about the same mileage. I just can't figure out any savings.
Finally, I can't deal with high repair costs and 15 quart oil changes. I have read stories of 4,000 dollar injector replacements. My research has proven that the PSD is not for me. It sure was a nice looking truck!
By the way, next time I put a ton in the Chevy I will time it 0 to 60 with my Gtech meter. I think it would be close to the PSD unloaded! That 200 hp V-6 with 3.73 gears does more than it should. I drove a 00 PSD, the new ones might be quicker.
One reason the big gas V-8s and V-10s walk around the unmodified diesels on hill climbs is because of their higher HP ratings. The diesels have higher torque ratings, but at lower RPMS. This means they can't use gearing as effectively. At 5252 RPMs torque and HP are equal. The formula is, HP = torque * RPM / 5252.
If you read my post more slowly you would realize that we are saying almost the same thing on gearing. Because of the narrow power band a diesel will need more gearing, thus not using it as effectively. I am not an English major and it is hard to believe this started because I stated the HP on my Chevy- that was not even the point!
Low RPMs are not the reason a diesel is more efficient with fuel. Volumetric efficiency and BTUs per gallon of fuel are the main factors. The diesel wins on both counts. RPMs only slightly increase friction and can be negated when both engines are turning the same speed, such as highway driving.
I looked at a V-10 SD this weekend. I have spent a lot of time driving a V-10 loaded in the past and was always surprised on how it performed. If I can get over the extra cab doors rattling on rough roads I may consider this option.
As a general rule if you want to pull a heavy loadd Torque is more desirable if you want to go fast HP is more important. The main reason for this is the size of the engine required for each application. In order to develope high torque a larger displacement engine is generally needed the reason for this is due to the fact torque is generated by the pressure generated by combustion acting on the top of the piston and thusly rotating the crankshaft. So in essence you could have a one piston engine that developed 1000lb-ft of torque if you made the piston big enough the dowfall is that you are only going to get like 100RPM out of it. That would give the engine under 2 HP.
To make HP you need lots of RPM Generally if the engine does not rev over 3500 RPM it has very low HP numbers.
A perfect way to see examples of this is look at a motorcycle engine they have 200 HP and displace maybe 2L. To get that they have to rev 10000 RPM the trade off is torque. In a truck you have 200HP and 250lb-ft of torque the way to accoplish this is increase the displacement and lower the RPM.
See it is easy and like said before "clear as mud". As a general term torque is usable power and Hp is available power.
Your 1000 ft-lb, 100-RPM engine actually produces 19 HP, not 2 HP. This is an easy sub in to the equation I posted above.
My logic does not equate a 300 hp bug to a 300 hp diesel. You guys are reading stuff that is not here! HP and torque are not vastly different measurements! They are the same measurement expressed in different units.
The funny part of this is I never expressed if I wanted HP or torque from my engine. Many assumptions were made here. I only used physics and logic.
As long as you throw RPM into the mix with Torque and HP, knowing any 2 of the 3 terms means you can always solve algebraicaly for the 3rd.
One of the hardest things to do on a message board is saying exactly what you mean and having others understand it. It seems that everyone interprets things in a different way. But it will help if you try to remember that these boards are supposed to be enjoyable. Remember that people ARE going to disagree with you from time to time, but don't let that cause things to degrade into a spitting match.
The posting on Town Hall show a depth of knowledge and a passion for cars and trucks that is just amazing. Let's keep it enjoyable as well as informative!
Thanks!
PF Flyer
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If you make a long post, copy it before you post it. Then if Town Hall loses it, you can just paste it back in and re-post it.
Please take the above as a non-personalized observation from a long time lurker :-)
It would start, go to 1200 rpms, then down to 0 rpms..
A few times, it would try to idle at 100 or 200 rpms, but bascially the truck wont idle at rpms that low and just dies.
After 5 or 6 tries of that, I was able to keep it running as long as I was giving it some gas.. It ran and reved smoothly but if I let off of the gas, it would stall.. So I knew I wouldn't be completely stuck, but things could get a little challenging at up-hill stop lights. (I have a 5sp).
I tried a few more times to see if it would idle, but no luck.
Being that there were only a few stops ( 1 stoplight) and 20 miles between the track and home, I figured I'd take it home so I can unload it before taking it to Ford.. At the stoplight I still had to heel-toe it to keep it running but other than that it ran fine..
When I got home it was just fine, no problem at all.
The problem occured the next 2 days as well, not in the morning (after sitting all night), but in the evening (after sitting all day).. Also, it only stalled once or twice on those occasions before returning to normal..
From looking on other boards I think the most likely culprit is the IAC (idle air control) unit..
I have an appt for next Wednesday to see what the local Ford dealership has to say..The truck just turned 30k miles.
I'll keep ya'll posted on what Ford says and how it turns out..
00' F250 SC 4x2 5.4L 5sp
Luckily, this problem is a challenge, but won't necessarily leave you stranded.
yep, sounds like the culprit. check over in the ford-diesel "gasser" section, there has been some talk about this valve within the past few weeks. If you scroll back on this forum, I mentioned this as part of a general information posting to the "new" guys. I had mine replaced about 2-months ago...exhibited vapor lock type symptons, would die backing out of drive first thing in the morning, etc... However, from what I have read this is more common on the V-10's than the V-8's. Good luck....
Yep, on the SuperDuty the problem is reported more on the V10 vs. V8.. hmm, probably because there are alot more V10's in SD's than the V8, hehe..
I also checked the F150 online site (prior to calling ford), and it seems that folks there with the 5.4L have also experienced the IAC problem.
I put the FOMOCO bug deflector on my SD and no you are not supposed to have to drill anything. It was kinda flimsy so I added about four screws and now its pretty tight. It looks good but I not sure it deflects to many bugs especially the big ones.
Hope this helps.
Frank K.
It's made by Autoshade Co. " Bugflector II " part # 25727. At $39.99 it's a bargain & a great product. No holes to drill, the holes are predrilled under the hood, & installed in 3 minutes. It contures the body, but still leaves room to wash under. Plus it has a lifetime warranty. Next I,m getting the Rhino liner put in & a hard folding tonnue cover that is lockable. Oh Yea I also got a remote starter put on for $88 at cartunes , since I park outside this comes in handy for those cold days.
WhiteF250- I did find a Bugflector II in Pep Boys, but it had a different part # (45706) and it retailed for $52.95. It seems like this is a different one than yours. Also, it comes with the little clear hood 'bumps', so the deflector doesn't rub, which I was trying to avoid. Did yours come with the little bumpstops too? Also, did you have any hood to grille clearance problems after you installed it? Thanks again!!