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Comments
Anybody have any experience with this type of situation?
The dealer is on the right track by looking at the angles..
Is this a Ford dealer that did your lift? I didn't know they'd do that..
It's back at the dealer today because they left the rear pinion u-bolt clamp loose (this doesn't help the drive line) So far they have been pretty cool about working on this problem even though its not stock.
I have a question - I have noticed that some SD drive shafts have a huge dampening ring on them. My doesn't - any input?
I do have one question......what kind of fuel economy are you guys getting with the Powerstroke? Our 6.5L GMC gets 18 to 20 mpg, of course its a gutless wonder too.
Check other SD's like yours to see if they have a dampening ring.. maybe your onto something..
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks,
Jim
My truck is a 2001 F-350 Lariat long bed single rear wheel 4 X 4 crew cab 7.3 powerstroke desiel. The weight over all with the truck and camper is 10,820 lbs with half a tank of gas and the camper with no liquids. My truck weighs 7,700 lbs and the camper around 3,100 lbs. My rear axle weight is 6,280. If I add more gas (full tank), 10 gal. of water for my camper, and the tounge weight of my water craft trailer i'm up to almost 6,900 lbs on the rear end!!!! And thats not including the stuff i'm gonna haul in the camper.
You see this is all new to me. The sales man said " No problem your truck is fine" when i bought the camper. But the service guy who did the air bags and mounted it said i'd better weigh it also my tires were in no way gonna handle the load. My tires are BF Goodrich AT 285 75 R16's load range D at a load capacity of 3,305 lbs per tire. The highest I can find is 3,415 lbs load range E 265 75 R16's.
Is there anyone who has a truck and camper like mine and is in the same situation or know what the limits are? Am I ok with the tires I have or do you know of any higher rated tires? I can't find any!!! I don't want to be right at my maximum or over what my tires will allow.
Please help me....any suggestions I would very much appreciate because I really want to keep my camper and of course my truck!
Thank You.
Help!!! I just bought a Lance 945- 11"3 camper and I absolutely love it. The problem is I can not find the tire's with the load capacity to handle the weight of my truck with the camper on it.
My truck is a 2001 F-350 Lariat long bed single rear wheel 4 X 4 crew cab 7.3 powerstroke desiel. The weight over all with the truck and camper is 10,820 lbs with half a tank of gas and the camper with no liquids. My truck weighs 7,700 lbs and the camper around 3,100 lbs. My rear axle weight is 6,280. If I add more gas (full tank), 10 gal. of water for my camper, and the tounge weight of my water craft trailer i'm up to almost 6,900 lbs on the rear end!!!! And thats not including the stuff i'm gonna haul in the camper.
You see this is all new to me. The sales man said " No problem your truck is fine" when i bought the camper. But the service guy who did the air bags and mounted it said i'd better weigh it also my tires were in no way gonna handle the load. My tires are BF Goodrich AT 285 75 R16's load range D at a load capacity of 3,305 lbs per tire. The highest I can find is 3,415 lbs load range E 265 75 R16's.
Is there anyone who has a truck and camper like mine and is in the same situation or know what the limits are? Am I ok with the tires I have or do you know of any higher rated tires? I can't find any!!! I don't want to be right at my maximum or over what my tires will allow.
Please help me....any suggestions I would very much appreciate because I really want to keep my camper and of course my truck!
Thank You.
Most folks I know that get the large in-bed campers opt for the F350 with DRW (dual rear wheels). The DRW's increase the load capacity by a significant amount, and you don't run into a tire capacity limitation because you have 4 tires to spread the load instead of 2..
I didn't think there was a load range above E for normal trucks..
Maybe I'll be wrong and others will have more positive news for you.. The silver lining in the cloud is now you have an excuse to buy a new truck..
The GVWR for the dually is 11200. Which is just right for what your doing..
Yes I have to agree with you guys. I'm definetly over loaded. I listened to the camper dealer instead of looking into it myself.
The dealer told me if I could show him in my manual that the load capacity is lower then the camper weight he'd take the camper back.
How do I increase my GVWR? I know that i'm allowed 5,200 lb on the front axle and 6,830 lb on the back giving me a total of 12,030 lbs.
I drove on some rough road and the doors and extended cab doors rattled. I could see the doors actually moving in and out on potholes. When I close the drivers door I can see the extended cab doors move! I tried a second truck and found the same thing. Is this normal? One of the things I like about the Silverado is that it is vault solid with no rattles, but I have a Reg cab.
I also noticed that it was hard to keep the PSD in the power band with the 6 speed manual trans with the truck empty. I have to drive in heavy city traffic and merge on expressways everyday. The PSD has a lot of power but it seems that just when things are going good I have to shift and start all over! Does the automatic trans help here?
It bothers me that my V-6 automatic will eat this thing for lunch 0 to 60 when both are empty and get the same gas mileage.
The PSD weighs about 600 lbs more than the V10, so I think that added weight up front coupled with less stiff extended cab causes the door flexing you're seeing. A lot of folks upgrade their PSDs with chips, etc. But you can't compare a PSD Super Duty to the V6, the Ford's curb weight is probably 3000 lbs greater than the Chevy's, and it'll pull your trailer and the Chevy backwards at the same time and hardly complain.
Post your questions about Diesel performance over on http://forums.ford-diesel.com, there's a whole slew of folks over there who can answer any question you pose.
Paul
The problem is that I don't think I use the truck loaded enough to take advantage of the PSD. I tow 5000 lbs a lot in the summer on beach sand with the V-6 and in low range, but I can't say I lack power. I think in low range I could break a ujoint before I stall the driveline.
So why did I look at the PSD? For one thing, my V-6 only gets 7 mpg towing at 75 mph! I see why they put a 34 gallon tank on it. I also want a crew or super cab truck and think the Fords look great. Finally, I know I tax my current truck and wanted a truck with a lot of driveline reserve.
Because the doors are small, short and light, it almost feels like you have to slam them for them to shut tight.. However now I've noticed I don't have to shut them as hard..
Another possibility is that they might not be installed/adjusted correctly, but it's probably more just the case where they wern't closed all the way..
Might anybody have experience with this?
thanks
Jerry
However, if you bought your Super Duty to haul and/or tow with and you know how to deal with the narrow powerband of a diesel engine the 6-speed manual is a delight. My truck will accelerate up a 6% grade in 6th gear when most other vehicles are struggling simply to maintain speed
As for an empty V-6 powered Silverado outrunning my SD to 60 mph, SO WHAT! Load the Chevy to it's GVWR of 6400 lbs THEN take on my 7100 lb (empty) F350 and see who gets to 60 mph first and who gets better mileage doing it!
IT WON'T BE THE CHEVY!
The reason I went looking is because towing on the beach I cracked the front diff on the Silverado. I really wanted a stronger driveline and better gas mileage. I agree that 75 mph towing a 8 foot wide trailier will yield bad milage, but I think the PSD would be about 40 percent better. Since I only tow about 2k miles per year that only amounts to a few dollars in savings and unloaded driving will yield about the same mileage. I just can't figure out any savings.
Finally, I can't deal with high repair costs and 15 quart oil changes. I have read stories of 4,000 dollar injector replacements. My research has proven that the PSD is not for me. It sure was a nice looking truck!
By the way, next time I put a ton in the Chevy I will time it 0 to 60 with my Gtech meter. I think it would be close to the PSD unloaded! That 200 hp V-6 with 3.73 gears does more than it should. I drove a 00 PSD, the new ones might be quicker.
One reason the big gas V-8s and V-10s walk around the unmodified diesels on hill climbs is because of their higher HP ratings. The diesels have higher torque ratings, but at lower RPMS. This means they can't use gearing as effectively. At 5252 RPMs torque and HP are equal. The formula is, HP = torque * RPM / 5252.
If you read my post more slowly you would realize that we are saying almost the same thing on gearing. Because of the narrow power band a diesel will need more gearing, thus not using it as effectively. I am not an English major and it is hard to believe this started because I stated the HP on my Chevy- that was not even the point!
Low RPMs are not the reason a diesel is more efficient with fuel. Volumetric efficiency and BTUs per gallon of fuel are the main factors. The diesel wins on both counts. RPMs only slightly increase friction and can be negated when both engines are turning the same speed, such as highway driving.
I looked at a V-10 SD this weekend. I have spent a lot of time driving a V-10 loaded in the past and was always surprised on how it performed. If I can get over the extra cab doors rattling on rough roads I may consider this option.
As a general rule if you want to pull a heavy loadd Torque is more desirable if you want to go fast HP is more important. The main reason for this is the size of the engine required for each application. In order to develope high torque a larger displacement engine is generally needed the reason for this is due to the fact torque is generated by the pressure generated by combustion acting on the top of the piston and thusly rotating the crankshaft. So in essence you could have a one piston engine that developed 1000lb-ft of torque if you made the piston big enough the dowfall is that you are only going to get like 100RPM out of it. That would give the engine under 2 HP.
To make HP you need lots of RPM Generally if the engine does not rev over 3500 RPM it has very low HP numbers.
A perfect way to see examples of this is look at a motorcycle engine they have 200 HP and displace maybe 2L. To get that they have to rev 10000 RPM the trade off is torque. In a truck you have 200HP and 250lb-ft of torque the way to accoplish this is increase the displacement and lower the RPM.
See it is easy and like said before "clear as mud". As a general term torque is usable power and Hp is available power.
Your 1000 ft-lb, 100-RPM engine actually produces 19 HP, not 2 HP. This is an easy sub in to the equation I posted above.
My logic does not equate a 300 hp bug to a 300 hp diesel. You guys are reading stuff that is not here! HP and torque are not vastly different measurements! They are the same measurement expressed in different units.
The funny part of this is I never expressed if I wanted HP or torque from my engine. Many assumptions were made here. I only used physics and logic.
As long as you throw RPM into the mix with Torque and HP, knowing any 2 of the 3 terms means you can always solve algebraicaly for the 3rd.
One of the hardest things to do on a message board is saying exactly what you mean and having others understand it. It seems that everyone interprets things in a different way. But it will help if you try to remember that these boards are supposed to be enjoyable. Remember that people ARE going to disagree with you from time to time, but don't let that cause things to degrade into a spitting match.
The posting on Town Hall show a depth of knowledge and a passion for cars and trucks that is just amazing. Let's keep it enjoyable as well as informative!
Thanks!
PF Flyer
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Pickups & News & Views Message Boards
If you make a long post, copy it before you post it. Then if Town Hall loses it, you can just paste it back in and re-post it.
Please take the above as a non-personalized observation from a long time lurker :-)
It would start, go to 1200 rpms, then down to 0 rpms..
A few times, it would try to idle at 100 or 200 rpms, but bascially the truck wont idle at rpms that low and just dies.
After 5 or 6 tries of that, I was able to keep it running as long as I was giving it some gas.. It ran and reved smoothly but if I let off of the gas, it would stall.. So I knew I wouldn't be completely stuck, but things could get a little challenging at up-hill stop lights. (I have a 5sp).
I tried a few more times to see if it would idle, but no luck.
Being that there were only a few stops ( 1 stoplight) and 20 miles between the track and home, I figured I'd take it home so I can unload it before taking it to Ford.. At the stoplight I still had to heel-toe it to keep it running but other than that it ran fine..
When I got home it was just fine, no problem at all.
The problem occured the next 2 days as well, not in the morning (after sitting all night), but in the evening (after sitting all day).. Also, it only stalled once or twice on those occasions before returning to normal..
From looking on other boards I think the most likely culprit is the IAC (idle air control) unit..
I have an appt for next Wednesday to see what the local Ford dealership has to say..The truck just turned 30k miles.
I'll keep ya'll posted on what Ford says and how it turns out..
00' F250 SC 4x2 5.4L 5sp
Luckily, this problem is a challenge, but won't necessarily leave you stranded.
yep, sounds like the culprit. check over in the ford-diesel "gasser" section, there has been some talk about this valve within the past few weeks. If you scroll back on this forum, I mentioned this as part of a general information posting to the "new" guys. I had mine replaced about 2-months ago...exhibited vapor lock type symptons, would die backing out of drive first thing in the morning, etc... However, from what I have read this is more common on the V-10's than the V-8's. Good luck....
Yep, on the SuperDuty the problem is reported more on the V10 vs. V8.. hmm, probably because there are alot more V10's in SD's than the V8, hehe..
I also checked the F150 online site (prior to calling ford), and it seems that folks there with the 5.4L have also experienced the IAC problem.
I put the FOMOCO bug deflector on my SD and no you are not supposed to have to drill anything. It was kinda flimsy so I added about four screws and now its pretty tight. It looks good but I not sure it deflects to many bugs especially the big ones.
Hope this helps.
Frank K.
It's made by Autoshade Co. " Bugflector II " part # 25727. At $39.99 it's a bargain & a great product. No holes to drill, the holes are predrilled under the hood, & installed in 3 minutes. It contures the body, but still leaves room to wash under. Plus it has a lifetime warranty. Next I,m getting the Rhino liner put in & a hard folding tonnue cover that is lockable. Oh Yea I also got a remote starter put on for $88 at cartunes , since I park outside this comes in handy for those cold days.
WhiteF250- I did find a Bugflector II in Pep Boys, but it had a different part # (45706) and it retailed for $52.95. It seems like this is a different one than yours. Also, it comes with the little clear hood 'bumps', so the deflector doesn't rub, which I was trying to avoid. Did yours come with the little bumpstops too? Also, did you have any hood to grille clearance problems after you installed it? Thanks again!!