Last week while on a short trip in Wisconsin I was parked with the drive wheel of my F-250 on snow and ice, the opposite wheel was on dry pavement. You guessed it, I had to shovel the little bit of snow and push the beast to get some traction. Exactly what is the purpose of a limited slip? This can't be normal.
If one wheel of the limited slip has absolutely no traction and is just free spinning, the pawls inside the differential are not able to move in order to shift the torque over to the side that has traction. That's a limitation of limited slip rear end. I have an F-350, V10, CC, LWB, 4x4, 3.73 I/LS and manual front hubs and had same problem first winter I had the truck.
Here's a little trick when you're stuck like that: Depress the parking brake (won't work with regular brakes) about a quarter to a third of the way; you don't want to lock the rear wheels, you just want to slow down the spinning rear wheel and provide it a little resistance. Once that wheel isn't freely spinning, then the limited slip can shift the torque over to the side that has better traction.
Go find yourself a patch of ice in a parking lot and go practice it. You may have to try it a number of times before you figure out the right amount of brake pressure you need to get out, but it does work. Your differential is a"limited" slip - it doesn't totally prevent slip, for that you need a "locker" . I haven't gotten stuck since I learned that trick
I have 2000 F-250 4X4 Auto With Electric Shift on The Fly option. With that option you get a different type of lockout than most of us are used to. The "lockouts" do not actually lockout, but allow you to select from Auto or Lock positions. My problem is that for the second time since I've owned my truck the lockouts have frozen up (not from the temp. outside either). My dealer repaired them once, about 4 months ago. I 'm not sure if they were actually replaced or not, but they are frozen up again. The truck goes in on Thursday for the repair. I would like to know if anyone else has had this problem, and if so, what was the cure. One of the mechanics had told me he thought there were updated versions of those hubs out, and I would like to know if this true. If there is a newer version out that corrects the problem I need to know it so that I can ask for them. Thanks .
have been towing RV's for over 100K miles and have been using overdrive constantly with no problems, first trannie service was at 90 I filter and pan clean no metal. hope my luck holds
I print the information from this site when I have problems with my truck and hand it to the Service Manager. They have become familair with the website, it has plenty of info for everyone.
I have a 2000 F250 SD CC BB 4x4 V10. I love the truck, but I have had too many warranty items to fix. The List:
1. Replaced the cup-holder twice 2. Replaced the coin-holder 3. Wrong 4x4 hubs installed from the factory 4. Steering wheel leather be-lamination 5. Squeaky front springs (TSB) 6. Alignment (TSB) 7. Exhaust noise (TSB) 8. Drive-line clunk
My previous GM had 70K miles and not a single warranty item.
Don't get me wrong this truck is bad-[non-permissible content removed] but Ford needs to address the quality control.
So the truck is at the dealer again for the drive-line clunk. Has anybody experienced this problem and found a solution? The noise is heard when shifting form forward to reverse and vise versa.
In the past I have provided the dealer with all the TSBs and pages from the service manuals to correct the previously mentioned warranty problems and still they could not find their way out of a wet paper bag. The dealer is Garden Grove Ford in southern California. Does anybody know of a good truck service dealer in this area.
I'm a Technical Training Manager in the motorcycle industry so I no the mechanics of how things work. Its pretty sad when the customer brings you the technical bulletins and pages from the manual and tell's you what's wrong and you still can't fix it. As you can tell I'm very frustrated.
I like my truck and all, but your right it has issues, I will drive mine to 30K, waiting to see what the dodge crew will be like, test drove the 1500 HD GMC, drove nice, but it had buckets and they intergrated the arm rest, so you lose 3 inches of room, was boxed in between arm rest & door. Truck is going in tonight for the front springs.
I have a 2000 F250 SD with 9000 miles on the V-10 engine. I have done 3 oil changes so far including on for a 500 mile break-in. I have noticed that the engine is consuming oil at the rate of 1 quart every 3000 miles. I am using 5-30 oil that the factory recommends. I spoke to Ford service about this and they said it is normal. I cannot comprehend that an engine with only 9000 miles on it will consume oil. My old Chewy Blazer with 130,000 miles on it did not consume oil.
Is there anyone else out there having this problem. If so please let me know.
I own a 250 CC, v-10, 4X4. I've experienced the same problem with the limited slip rear end. The dealer checked it and said it was within specs (surprise!!!!!). The trick that wpalkowski suggests is one that is used on vehicles without limited slip or posi-trac. By applying friction to the spinning wheel with the brake, some of the power will be transferred to the wheel with traction. Well, I agree. What is the point of limited slip if this is what we need to do? I still think something is wrong with the SD limited slip rear. My father-in-law's f-150 has limited slip and you can feel it lock up when one of the rear wheels break traction. No brakes required. Maybe enough of us will complain and get Ford to check into this. We aren't the only ones with this problem.
I saw above that there's a TSB on spring squeaks. My dealer SAYS they replaced the spring tip isolators in the front and I know they put new springs under the back on my 250 CC v10 4x4, but the squeaks came back. Anybody else have them come back? If so, what did you do? Thanks for the help.
Long time, no post, Hi to bowhuntwi and bess especially. How's it going? I have 28,000 on the 250. I like it as well it likes gas... (except for the squeaks).
Wildside, I didn't get the blanket, but I got to drive a F250 SD four wheel steering prototype last fall and got paid $225 to do it. One of our other posters (can't remember his name) was there, too). Neat to meet someone from this forum.
They (Ford)were testing four wheel steer 250 & 150 4x4's with trailer tow set ups. Sweet. Parked like a Miata.
Sorry about the late post, I've been off here for a while. I saw where I posted about the springs back in December. Time to go back to the dealer.....
I just turned 19,000 on my truck.......going to the shop for the front springs and my cab mounts again. I had my truck in last week, told the dealer about the TSB on the springs & cab mounts 3 weeks before my appointment. Left it for the day, they never called or anything, went to pick it up, they told me they had to order the parts. (they knew for 3 weeks about parts they would need). Now it's another day that it will be in the shop. I guess this way they soak Ford for 2 days of warranty work instead of one. Looking forward to going to Sugar Island up in the U.P. of Michigan for a week of fishing in June. Trying to decide if I'm going to keep my ford & buy an extended warranty (since it's like pulling teeth out of a toothless wonder when I need warranty work from ford) or take a look at the new Crew Cab coming out from Dodge. I got some new pics of my truck at http://www.picturetrail.com/bowhuntwi
Does anybody KNOW which axle is used on the F350 Super Duty, specifically one with dual rear wheels. Someone told me it's a Dana 80 but I want to know for certain.
Lilelmo/bowhunting - There is a third fix out for these squeaky springs, it's a kit with part #1C3Z-5B302-AA. I'm taking mine in for the fourth time for the springs and the second on the cab bolts next week.
I share your pain in going in for warranty work, what angers me is I have to go in and wait four hours or so to have them tell me they need to order parts. So every problem takes two trips despite the fact I tell them the part numbers. Their answer is "we" internet savvy people don't necessary know whats happening, yet I've always known more about my truck, from day one before I even ordered it. Of course, if quality was job 1, we wouldn't be there in the first place.
Pistolero, thanks for the feedback. It galls them that we find out stuff as easy as they do. It took them two tries on the cab bolt problem and I was standing there telling them exactly what was wrong. The guy said, "Oh, we don't normally have a customer tell us what TSB to look at." Idiot.
Here in Georgia, there's a "Lemon Law" that says the dealer has three tries in two years to fix the same problem or you can make them buy it back. At what price, I don't know. I still like my truck, but to pay $32,000 and have it sound like an old wagon is outrageous.All you have to say is "Lemon Law" and they react.
It's fast, it's comfortable,it looks good, and pulls my trailer like a locomotive. IF I have to keep it squeaks and all, I will and I'll replace the spring tip isolators with 2002 versions or whatever I can get.
But by gosh, I'll threaten, document and get every new part I can before that two years is up. On my 94 F150, I had rotor warpage that was eventually traceable to the compounds used in the pads. Just before my warranty expired, I was in for the third time to get the rotors turned. I made them put new discs (which incorporated the locking hubs @ $150 each and specified non-Ford pads. I drove that set of discs another 90,000 without turning them but once. Why they couldn't do it right the first two times is beyond me.
This is my third time on the springs. I noticed today that when the air temperature hits 65-70 degrees, it stops. To me, that's the wrong compound in the bushing. The new springs on the rear are MUCH better than the front ones or the old rears. I'll bet you $20 this is a problem that's pretty unique to 2000 when they were so far behind on production and they used multiple vendors to catch up.
Ford better get it's pocketbook ready. I want new front springs. I have an idle problem which is particular the V10 and involves somthing called the oxygen valve. I guess they bought it from Oprah' online site (har,har). The dealer told me to make a list, and I am.
I had an electrical"bug" happen in the rain the other day. All my instrument lights, the OD light, the ABS light, AND the speedometer flashed or quit. I 'bout died, myself. I truly know that Jaguar and Lucas, Lord of Darkness, must be helping Ford design electrical components. It acted just like an old Triumph TR6 in the rain.
I'm making a list and checking it twice. Ford better be nice.
I've even considered the Dodge or Chevy, but I just find it hard to commit that heresy.
Spraying the spring area with teflon spray absolutely silences it (for about 4 days).
This reminds me of a control arm bushing problem they had 7 years ago. Seems they had two different hardnesses of rubber and the compression rate was different, so the front end steered itself to the softer bushing when you braked. Scared me to death.
Sorry for the long post. I needed to vent a little. I'm going in on Wednesday next week. I'll let you know what happens.
I have been getting a clicking noise going over bumps from day one (not the clunk from the cab mounts) this noise is coming from the rear drivers side door when the window is any where from half up to all the way up, when it's down, it doesn't happen. So when I go in for the cab mounts & springs they will be checking out this out too. Drove a chevy 2500HD over the weekend, small interior compared to the SD. told the salesman about it and he got out his tape measure. He tried telling me they were the same inside, I told him no way. He said lets measure, I said ok. Ford SD side to side (inside doors across front seat) 66" Chevy- 64" , (from dash to back seat cushsion) Ford SD- 64" Chevy- 59". Chevy salesman didn't have much to say. that 5" was leg room in the back seat. I guess that is one more truck I cross off my possibles list, now I'll have to wait for the new Dodge Crew Cab, I have a Durango I like alot of the options on the dodge, so we will see. If I don't like that truck, I'll go for the extended warranty on this one or check out a differant ford dealer that will work with me instead of against me for service.
I have a 2000 F-250 SD, 4x4, automatic, 4:10 limited slip rear axle, 5.4L V8, with the camper and towing packages. I just bought a steel bumper-pull two horse trailer. I was told, when hauling, to turn the transmission overdrive off. I understand how this will provide for better engine breaking, but how else does this benefit me.
When going 65 mph pulling the trailer, I was at 3000 rpm. That seems too high to me. When I turned overdrive back on, I went down to 2500 rpm. Someone told me that NOT turning off the overdrive when hauling caused them to burn out a transmission. My truck seemed to do best on the hightway with the overdrive ON. What am I missing about this?
With the overdrive off even though the RPMs are higher, both the engine and transmission are not working as hard. The transmission, when overworked builds up heat and that is the primary cause of transmissions needing rebuild (from burning up). That is also the reason that for towing, an auxiliary trans cooler will help a great deal.
The SuperDuty's already have a trans cooler from my understanding. So I doubt for most folks if you would need and aux one..
The tranny 'builds heat' only when its slipping.. So when your towing if its constantly switching in and out of the converter lock, or shifting between 3rd and 4th, then you should turn off the O/D (to keep it in 3rd). But if it pulls just the load in 4th (and the torque converter lock stays enguaged), then your just fine..
Some folks will put a extra tranny temp guage on their trucks as a good way to see if your overheating the tranny.. This is the best way to tell if you can safely pull in OD or not..
I agree on the trans temp gauge- a good idea. The trans cooler on the super duty is fine for normal towing applications, but I understand from reading the boards at ford-diesel.com, that many of the serious towing applications could use the auxiliary coolers. For normal towing applications what it it comes with should suffice.
hi. i am not a super duty owner, but my fiancee has fallen in love with this vehicle. it is a Ford F350, 4 door extended cab dually. i am not that rich to be able to afford to give him one of these, but thought maybe a toy replica would make him happy. here's my question: would anybody have any suggestions as to what site/place i can go to purchase this? i can deal with assembly required stuff, as he is a capable hands-on type of guy. sorry if this is not the right forum to be posting in (maybe you can also point me to the right place?). thanks in advance.
Guess what it wasn't done, they said maybe today.......The Tech. said he fixed the front springs and the cab mounts, but the clicking noise was stumping him,supposely spent 4 hours on it. I plainly explained and wrote it down so my 10 yr old could understand. The clicking noise only happens when the rear drivers side window is up half way to all the way up, when it's down it doesn't happen. This tell me it's in the door and something is loose, when the window is down, that loose peice is held tight, when up it clicks or rattles. So this is what they did, took everything out to the bare floor behind the rear seat,all trim, seatbelt out along the rear door. but hadn't taken the door molding off to look inside the door. Said they would do it today, why couldn't of they did it yesterday. So we are on the 2nd day at the dealers for a simple fix. I 'm sure that 4 hours wasn't in the time allotment for the job, but why quit and wait an extra day.
I believe dealers can start taking 2002 orders sometime after the middle of May. Supposedly May 11th is the last day Ford will guarantee orders for a 2001, after that date you'll probably get bumped over to a 2002.
Limited Slip - The emergency brakes on the super duty is on the drive shaft, not the rear wheels. For this reason applying the emergency brakes has no affect on the spinning wheel. Applying the driving brakes may help with four wheel drive engaged.
4R100 heating. The 4R100 in my 99 F350 V10, 4.30 never operates with the torque converter unlocked except during a shift as long as I am going above 30 mph in any gear once it locks up the first time. This and the aux cooler, which is in front of the radiator, should keep heat significantly lower than earlier models. I do turn the OD off when in the mountains but mainly to provide needed deceleration when going downhill. I tow a 14,000 lb. 5W trailer.
I'm away from home on a trip at the moment, but I think that the e-brakes are on the rear wheels on the 00 F250. I've never seen any braking mechanism on the driveshaft during the ventures under my truck.
Ya got me curious enough that for sure I'll take another peek..
According to my Chiltons Book on the 97-00 pickups the Super Duty's e-brake (called a parking brake) is a drum brake assembly, fluid filled, bolted to the rear of the transmission. You should be able to trace the parking brake cable. It was a surprise to me and I confess I haven't looked at mine.
I just took a peek.. The e-brake cable splits to 2 cables just behind the cab, one going to each rear wheel.. In fact I remember now there were some discussions where folks worried because the ebrake cable sometimes rubs on the leaf springs..
The other case was where Ford recommended lightly applying the e-brake in certain cases to help get the Limited slip rear end work better if your in a real stuck situation.
I didn't think there was a chiltons available on the SuperDuty yet.. (only the F150's).
Also, the SuperDuty didn't even exist until 1999. Remember that the SuperDuty platform is completely different from the light duty F150/F250 platform. So it is unlikely that they'd have one manual to cover both the light dutyF150/F250 and the Superduty..
I should have looked before I spoke. You are absolutely correct, the parking brakes on the pickups are on the rear wheels not the drive shaft. Chiltons' does have a book which covers the 1997-2000 F150, F250, F250HD, F350, F-Super Duty, Expedition, and Navigator. In 97-98 the F250HD, F350 and F-Super Duty are listed. The F-Super Duty is the chassis-cab and motorhome chassis. In 99-00 there is only one category, the F-super Duty. The gas engines in these two groups are of course different with the 5.4 V8 and 6.8 V10 in the 99-00 group. I can only guess that the drive shaft brake described for the Super Duty must be used on some chassis-cab or motorhome chassis. I appreciate your setting us straight
Have a question for you guys. From time to time, I've seen some Super Duty diesels (2wd) marked down to tempting prices. I have been considering the purchase of a Super Duty, but I don't think I truly need a diesel, since the heaviest load it would be carrying is a lawn tractor, or maybe pulling a car on a trailer from time to time. But, I do like the reputation for toughness, durability, and increase gas mileage that diesels offer. Can you hurt a diesel by not working it hard often? Also, do the diesels come with the same 3/36 powertrain warranty as the gas engines? I've seen people mention a 100K warranty, but didn't know if this was an extended warranty, or from the factory. Thanks!
I think it would be just fine for light duty use.. The only thing I've heard is for breakin, be sure to work it hard once you've done the initial break-in. The folks at www.ford-diesel.com have tips on proper breakin..
If your only driving 5 miles each way to work everyday, then there might be other issues to think of, but this is the case with almost any engine..
From my understanding, only the engine itself is warrantied from the factory for 100k miles. The rest of the powertrain, and truck are 3/36.
I have some concerns about towing with an '01 F250 CC 5.4 V8. I understand the truck comes standard with a "Tow Package," but what does that include? NONE of the dealers here in So California can give me any specifics. Trans and oil coolers I'm assuming, on top of other things?
I will be towing a "lite" trailer that is appx 5K lbs wet weight, along with all my camping and recreational gear and family.
I realize a 250 may be "Too much truck" for this task, but I have a relative at Ford! I just want to be sure I get the truck properly equipped right from the start.
Any thoughts and experiences would be appreciated.
I have a wallop sound coming from my tires when I go over bumps, I noticed this a bit last summer, but I thought maybe I needed some weight in the box so I threw in some sand bags, it seemed to help. Well on a recent trip, we were loaded down, plus pulling a 3K boat, even hitting small bumps, I got the wallop sound, like my wheels were just flopping in the wheel wells. I have the heavy duty supension CC 4x4 F250-2K. Does anybody have any ideas, it has been suggested something with the springs or the shocks, truck is only 1 1/2 yrs old. I hate to think what the great ford boys would do looking at it.
Are you sure the "wallop" is coming from your tires and not your front springs? Lot of superduties are getting creaks/loud noises from springs going over bumps due to some deficiency with the"spring isolator tips" on front springs. Go over to www.ford-diesel.com and search in the "general questions" forum for "spring isolaters" or "spring noises." Ford has been replacing springs with some revised version - works for a while, but guys are reporting that the noises come back after a few thousand miles Other thought, I have '01 F-350, V10, CC, and I was getting thunking noises from under the truck when going over bumps and also on tight turns. It turned out it was the cab mounting bolts that were a bit loose. Dealer torqued all the bolts to spec and noises went away - unfortunately it's a pain in the butt job because seat and carpets have to come out to get to a few of the bolts from what they told me. I had to go back again because they managed to jam up rear safety belts when reinstalling my seats. Now if they could just fix the V10 exhaust flutter...... :-( I'd have an absolutely perfect truck.
After 6 trips to the dealer, they finally got the rear seat fixed after they got foam resin on it. I had my front springs fixed twice, I know that sound and the wallop isn't it. Had the cab mounts retorqued the first time, replaced the second time. Trying to decide if I will buy an extended warranty or be looking for a differant truck in the near future, I really like the truck, but the service I have been receiving really $#@%. I have dallied a bit over on the diesel site looking around, didn't really see anything that applied to my problem.
I read somewhere that you were intitled to a free alignment in the first year of buying a superduty - on another forum I read this was given in the first 12000 miles (posted by bess)- my question is can you get a free front end alignment on a F350 superduty from Ford still under warranty but purchased over a year ago but with less than 12000 miles on it?
I was told this by the dealer during our 'service department orientation'. I forget whether he said there was a time limit on it or not.
If you think there's a problem with the alignment, then take it to the service department and ask if the alignment is at no charge givin there is less than 12k miles on it..
Did everyone get their recall notice on the 2001 F250? I don't think it was limited to a specific cab setup.
I have the 01 F250 SC. The recall was about the front outboard belts. It said that when the belt is buckled in a slow manner, the red button wouldn't pop back out all the way indicating a complete catch. I haven't tested mine (I buckle too fast I guess.) I have the seats where the belt is in the seat instead of hanging from the ceiling (a mid-2001 change.) Maybe only these are affected?
Hi! I have an older '89 F250 4X4 diesel (no turbo), great truck, but looking to get a new one. I travel a lot with my horses and need more power and stability. I have read lots of the problems and thoughts on the super duty P/U and want to know what a good price is for what I am looking at. What I would like is a new (01 or 02) dually, 4X4, diesel, tow package, I guess XLT. I have been quoted a price of $34,000.00. Sound good? To much? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I have been told to stay away from other makes, because of problems, but seems to be problems in every make. Thoughts???
I suppose a dually might be as much as 34K however that does sound a bit much. Mine is a 01 SD 4X4,PSD, Super cab but not a dually. Tow package is standard equipment, after all that's what the rig is built for. Didn't know this while talking to dealers, they didn't either always wanting to add it on. Lots of discussions on this site of which are the best trucks. Think it comes down to preference, and you're right, they all have problems. Bought mine last fall, replaced an F-150. The Dodge boys here give me heck but I like the Ford PSD. 17 - 18 mpg as long as I keep the lead foot out. Dodge seems to run about 21 mpg. 12,500 miles isn't much to go on but so far this has been the most enjoyable rig I've ever owned. And unlike the 150, no repairs to date not even those silly airconditioning hose fittings prone to leak. The four wheel disk brakes are also very nice.
I have the 01 F250 4x4 PSD SC short bed non-Dually. I paid (after the rebate) $34,000 (invoice was just over that.) The only thing I didn't get was the 6CD indash and tinted windows. For the same price, I can get them tinted the darkness I want at the local shop.
I've read on here problems with every pickup out there. Some are just luckier then others. Only 6 weeks into ownership, but no problems so far. The recall I mentioned earlier must have been for pre-mid-2001 models. My seat belts are just fine.
I have been looking around for a good list of things to make sure I do while the break in period continues with my Power Stroke Diesel. Some have said to go check out ford-diesel dot com and there is nothing there that I can find. I searched their site, clicked on just about every link and still can't find the list. Will someone please direct me?
has anyone tried the aftermarket light bulb that is suppose to beep when you back up in your superduty? does it work? - also any updates on factory upgraded tires (steeltex a/t)for 2000 F350 - thank you bess for response on free alignment question - is Brutus still around if so how is his truck doing or has he moved on to another - I haven't been around for awhile and I always found his posting extremely informative and quite enjoyable - this site was instrumental in my purchase and I wish to thank all of the participants for such excellent information - I just love my truck
Seems like a while ago someone posted that they had less than hoped for results when they did this. I am thinking about it now for my 99 F250, V10. Already have cat back 2.5" and 2 chamber Flowmaster. Any feedback would be great.
Has anyone on here installed a body lift on their new 250SD yet? If so,what brand was it and did you have to modify anything you didn't expect. Did you raise the bumpers also,what about the tow hooks? Also did you talk to your dealer about it affecting future warranty work?
I just bought 01 350 CC DRW Diesel. Wanted to know if anyone had any suggestions (go to sites) for purchasing an attractive toolbox that would go across the bed (along the rear window). I found a few diamond plate boxes ranging in price from $300.00 & up. Any suggestions would be appreciated????
Comments
Here's a little trick when you're stuck like that: Depress the parking brake (won't work with regular brakes) about a quarter to a third of the way; you don't want to lock the rear wheels, you just want to slow down the spinning rear wheel and provide it a little resistance. Once that wheel isn't freely spinning, then the limited slip can shift the torque over to the side that has better traction.
Go find yourself a patch of ice in a parking lot and go practice it. You may have to try it a number of times before you figure out the right amount of brake pressure you need to get out, but it does work. Your differential is a"limited" slip - it doesn't totally prevent slip, for that you need a "locker" . I haven't gotten stuck since I learned that trick
This will usually occur after hitting a bump while driving in 4X2 mode. This may be due to a
worn or damaged axle shaft support needle bearing allowing the axle to wobble or vibrate in the
within the hub. The entire hub assembly should be removed and the bearing and seals inspected
for damage. If the truck is equipped with manual shift transfer case, ensure the vacuum fitting is
capped to prevent contamination. The axle needle bearing P/N is C6TZ-3123-A. SSM
#13697/8. More info can be found at this site: http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/home.html
I print the information from this site when I have problems with my truck and hand it to the Service Manager. They have become familair with the website, it has plenty of info for everyone.
1. Replaced the cup-holder twice
2. Replaced the coin-holder
3. Wrong 4x4 hubs installed from the factory
4. Steering wheel leather be-lamination
5. Squeaky front springs (TSB)
6. Alignment (TSB)
7. Exhaust noise (TSB)
8. Drive-line clunk
My previous GM had 70K miles and not a single warranty item.
Don't get me wrong this truck is bad-[non-permissible content removed] but Ford needs to address the quality control.
So the truck is at the dealer again for the drive-line clunk. Has anybody experienced this problem and found a solution? The noise is heard when shifting form forward to reverse and vise versa.
In the past I have provided the dealer with all the TSBs and pages from the service manuals to correct the previously mentioned warranty problems and still they could not find their way out of a wet paper bag. The dealer is Garden Grove Ford in southern California. Does anybody know of a good truck service dealer in this area.
I'm a Technical Training Manager in the motorcycle industry so I no the mechanics of how things work. Its pretty sad when the customer brings you the technical bulletins and pages from the manual and tell's you what's wrong and you still can't fix it. As you can tell I'm very frustrated.
Truck is going in tonight for the front springs.
Thanks
Is there anyone else out there having this problem. If so please let me know.
I own a 250 CC, v-10, 4X4. I've experienced the same problem with the limited slip rear end. The dealer checked it and said it was within specs (surprise!!!!!). The trick that wpalkowski suggests is one that is used on vehicles without limited slip or posi-trac. By applying friction to the spinning wheel with the brake, some of the power will be transferred to the wheel with traction. Well, I agree. What is the point of limited slip if this is what we need to do? I still think something is wrong with the SD limited slip rear. My father-in-law's f-150 has limited slip and you can feel it lock up when one of the rear wheels break traction. No brakes required. Maybe enough of us will complain and get Ford to check into this. We aren't the only ones with this problem.
Long time, no post, Hi to bowhuntwi and bess especially. How's it going? I have 28,000 on the 250. I like it as well it likes gas... (except for the squeaks).
They (Ford)were testing four wheel steer 250 & 150 4x4's with trailer tow set ups. Sweet. Parked like a Miata.
Sorry about the late post, I've been off here for a while. I saw where I posted about the springs back in December. Time to go back to the dealer.....
Thanks
I share your pain in going in for warranty work, what angers me is I have to go in and wait four hours or so to have them tell me they need to order parts. So every problem takes two trips despite the fact I tell them the part numbers. Their answer is "we" internet savvy people don't necessary know whats happening, yet I've always known more about my truck, from day one before I even ordered it. Of course, if quality was job 1, we wouldn't be there in the first place.
Here in Georgia, there's a "Lemon Law" that says the dealer has three tries in two years to fix the same problem or you can make them buy it back. At what price, I don't know. I still like my truck, but to pay $32,000 and have it sound like an old wagon is outrageous.All you have to say is "Lemon Law" and they react.
It's fast, it's comfortable,it looks good, and pulls my trailer like a locomotive. IF I have to keep it squeaks and all, I will and I'll replace the spring tip isolators with 2002 versions or whatever I can get.
But by gosh, I'll threaten, document and get every new part I can before that two years is up. On my 94 F150, I had rotor warpage that was eventually traceable to the compounds used in the pads. Just before my warranty expired, I was in for the third time to get the rotors turned. I made them put new discs (which incorporated the locking hubs @ $150 each and specified non-Ford pads. I drove that set of discs another 90,000 without turning them but once. Why they couldn't do it right the first two times is beyond me.
This is my third time on the springs. I noticed today that when the air temperature hits 65-70 degrees, it stops. To me, that's the wrong compound in the bushing. The new springs on the rear are MUCH better than the front ones or the old rears. I'll bet you $20 this is a problem that's pretty unique to 2000 when they were so far behind on production and they used multiple vendors to catch up.
Ford better get it's pocketbook ready. I want new front springs. I have an idle problem which is particular the V10 and involves somthing called the oxygen valve. I guess they bought it from Oprah' online site (har,har). The dealer told me to make a list, and I am.
I had an electrical"bug" happen in the rain the other day. All my instrument lights, the OD light, the ABS light, AND the speedometer flashed or quit. I 'bout died, myself. I truly know that Jaguar and Lucas, Lord of Darkness, must be helping Ford design electrical components. It acted just like an old Triumph TR6 in the rain.
I'm making a list and checking it twice. Ford better be nice.
I've even considered the Dodge or Chevy, but I just find it hard to commit that heresy.
Spraying the spring area with teflon spray absolutely silences it (for about 4 days).
This reminds me of a control arm bushing problem they had 7 years ago. Seems they had two different hardnesses of rubber and the compression rate was different, so the front end steered itself to the softer bushing when you braked. Scared me to death.
Sorry for the long post. I needed to vent a little. I'm going in on Wednesday next week. I'll let you know what happens.
When going 65 mph pulling the trailer, I was at 3000 rpm. That seems too high to me. When I turned overdrive back on, I went down to 2500 rpm. Someone told me that NOT turning off the overdrive when hauling caused them to burn out a transmission. My truck seemed to do best on the hightway with the overdrive ON. What am I missing about this?
The tranny 'builds heat' only when its slipping.. So when your towing if its constantly switching in and out of the converter lock, or shifting between 3rd and 4th, then you should turn off the O/D (to keep it in 3rd).
But if it pulls just the load in 4th (and the torque converter lock stays enguaged), then your just fine..
Some folks will put a extra tranny temp guage on their trucks as a good way to see if your overheating the tranny.. This is the best way to tell if you can safely pull in OD or not..
Sorry for the long post, just venting some steam.
I believe dealers can start taking 2002 orders sometime after the middle of May. Supposedly May 11th is the last day Ford will guarantee orders for a 2001, after that date you'll probably get bumped over to a 2002.
Here's a link to 2002 order guides:
http://www.sunrisefordfleet.com/guides/
Some new colors, and other incremental improvements - new headlights, better seat padding, and a 6-speed manual for the gassers.
4R100 heating. The 4R100 in my 99 F350 V10, 4.30 never operates with the torque converter unlocked except during a shift as long as I am going above 30 mph in any gear once it locks up the first time. This and the aux cooler, which is in front of the radiator, should keep heat significantly lower than earlier models. I do turn the OD off when in the mountains but mainly to provide needed deceleration when going downhill. I tow a 14,000 lb. 5W trailer.
Ya got me curious enough that for sure I'll take another peek..
The other case was where Ford recommended lightly applying the e-brake in certain cases to help get the Limited slip rear end work better if your in a real stuck situation.
I didn't think there was a chiltons available on the SuperDuty yet.. (only the F150's).
Also, the SuperDuty didn't even exist until 1999. Remember that the SuperDuty platform is completely different from the light duty F150/F250 platform. So it is unlikely that they'd have one manual to cover both the light dutyF150/F250 and the Superduty..
If your only driving 5 miles each way to work everyday, then there might be other issues to think of, but this is the case with almost any engine..
From my understanding, only the engine itself is warrantied from the factory for 100k miles. The rest of the powertrain, and truck are 3/36.
I have some concerns about towing with an '01 F250 CC 5.4 V8. I understand the truck comes standard with a "Tow Package," but what does that include? NONE of the dealers here in So California can give me any specifics. Trans and oil coolers I'm assuming, on top of other things?
I will be towing a "lite" trailer that is appx 5K lbs wet weight, along with all my camping and recreational gear and family.
I realize a 250 may be "Too much truck" for this task, but I have a relative at Ford! I just want to be sure I get the truck properly equipped right from the start.
Any thoughts and experiences would be appreciated.
The 'trailer towing package' adds:
- wireing harness
- Front stablizer bar (4x2)
- trailer brake wiring/feed kit
- heavyduty 115 amp alternator (gas engines)
*source= 2000 Ford Commecrial Vehicle guide which includes the specs for the SuperDuty line.
The truck your considering will have no problems with your trailer.. Enjoy the time with the family.
Roger
00' F250 SC xlt 4x2 5.4L 5sp 4.10LS
Go over to www.ford-diesel.com and search in the "general questions" forum for "spring isolaters" or "spring noises." Ford has been replacing springs with some revised version - works for a while, but guys are reporting that the noises come back after a few thousand miles
Other thought, I have '01 F-350, V10, CC, and I was getting thunking noises from under the truck when going over bumps and also on tight turns. It turned out it was the cab mounting bolts that were a bit loose. Dealer torqued all the bolts to spec and noises went away - unfortunately it's a pain in the butt job because seat and carpets have to come out to get to a few of the bolts from what they told me. I had to go back again because they managed to jam up rear safety belts when reinstalling my seats. Now if they could just fix the V10 exhaust flutter...... :-( I'd have an absolutely perfect truck.
If you think there's a problem with the alignment, then take it to the service department and ask if the alignment is at no charge givin there is less than 12k miles on it..
I have the 01 F250 SC. The recall was about the front outboard belts. It said that when the belt is buckled in a slow manner, the red button wouldn't pop back out all the way indicating a complete catch. I haven't tested mine (I buckle too fast I guess.) I have the seats where the belt is in the seat instead of hanging from the ceiling (a mid-2001 change.) Maybe only these are affected?
I've read on here problems with every pickup out there. Some are just luckier then others. Only 6 weeks into ownership, but no problems so far. The recall I mentioned earlier must have been for pre-mid-2001 models. My seat belts are just fine.
Good luck.
Thanks.
I just bought 01 350 CC DRW Diesel. Wanted to know if anyone had any suggestions (go to sites) for purchasing an attractive toolbox that would go across the bed (along the rear window). I found a few diamond plate boxes ranging in price from $300.00 & up. Any suggestions would be appreciated????