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Dodge Dakota Problems. Please help!
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Brian
At least that would be the 1st thing I would check. I had that "problem" on an older car, I just fiddled with the shift lever each time cause I was too lazy/cheap to fix it.
I have a 99 Dakota is a 3.9 2WD 5sp. My average mileage is 19 in the summer, and 14mpg in the winter. My 99 F-150 4x4 gets 14mpg all year round. I use only high quality synthetic oil, and at minimum 89 octane gas. Our Dakota has been in 4 times for the grinding noise that people have been complaining about in other messages. I was finally convinced by an Ford tech that this was a clock spring, and nothing to worry about. However, I am unsettled by the volume of the noise, and that extra bump in the steering while braking. I have had the exhaust changed twice, and the ABS recall was completed. They have never been able to figure out why my front speakers do not work unless the e-brake is engaged (acompianied by a large pop). I have only one circuits class in my life (I received a C-), but even I know that this is a short.
I have gone to three different five star dealers, and each give my a different lame excuse about the same complaint. It would be nice if they actually read the other service orders in the computer before they lied to me. The average wait time I have had for any service is 4 days. Only once was I given a loaner, and that was after I yelled for a long time.
Diamler/Chrysler will never make a profit until their service department shapes up. I had service problems with the Dodge Avenger I traded in for the Dakota. I would never buy a D/C product again until I was convinced that they can repair their products. Five Star Dealers make you diagnose your own problems, which is why they are incapable of fixing any problem. For example, my speaker short problem... I told them my speakers pop when I press the e-brake. They replaced the e-brake, but never tested the stereo because when I picked it up, the speakers did not work.
I then said maybe the amp is shorted? They replaced the "amp" which is a lie because the amp is inside the dash unit which still has my initials carved in it. I finally yelled loud enough, and they replaced the wire harness. However, the driver power window creates a horrible buzzing in my speakers every time it is adjusted.
I encourage every one who reads this to not purchase any D/C products, and if you currently own one to trade it in. If that is not possible, force the dealer to make the correct repairs, and on time. If they fail this simple task, get an lawyer, and pursue the lemon law. Do what it takes to make D/C financially responsible for their horrible products. This will force them to either shut down operations, or to fix their broken repair process
Hang on to your Dakota, find a non-Chrysler service dept to work on it and you may find that in the end you will love the truck.
The dealers just don't do anything. I'll give you a short example. On a 99 Stratus, whenever the gas gets lower than an 1/8 tank and it is caold it is hard to start. The things to look at include the filter, fuel pressure. Both are fine. Next pull the pickup from the tanl and look for pin holes in the weld where the tube connects to the pick up. This happens with automatic welders . The dealer refuses to pull the pick up saying Chrysler won't pay it. So I have been living with it. Thankfully I am trading it in as soon as my Dakota 2 gets here.
Get a stereo expert to look at it. It sounds to me like somewher the E brake is catching a wire and either shorting it out or pulling it enough to break a connection.
Its at the dealer now and I will make sure they go trough clutch/cranny well. I say all this to forewarn any of you who may have similar problems to make sure your service center replaces your clutch disc at minimum as this problem is most likely caused by the clutch not fully disengaging, this causes the disc to wear which won't show till your out of warranty. This problem was intermitent at first with no set pattern as to when it would occur.
Otherwise its a great truck and I'm satisfied with it.Has 23,000 kms./13,000 miles.anyone out there have similar troubles? Thanks. RG
Were you experiencing grinding of the gears? This would lead me to believe that the clutch was not fully disengageing. Possible air in the hydraulic system.
If it were hard to put in gear, then it is probably a linkage adjustment.
Hope all goes well for your truck and please let us know of the outcome.
Thanks, Towman
79 of 79 15 mph Automatic Door Lock Deactivation/Activation (2001 Owner's Manual Typo) by skylerk Mar 27, 2001 (01:43 am)
The instructions for turning on and off automatic door locking above 15 mph on pages 13-14 of the 2001 Dakota Owner's Manual are incorrect.
To get the correct instructions, all you have to do is change step 2 so that the phrase "... ending in the ON position" instead says "...ending in the OFF position".
In case you don't want to go dig out your manual, here are the complete, corrected instructions which I have verified to work on my 2001 Dakota (the word in green/bold is the one which needs to be changed in the manual):
1. Close all of the doors.
2. Place the key in ignition and cycle the key from the OFF position to the ON position for a total of four times ending in the OFF position, do not start the engine.
3. Press the driver's side power door lock switch to lock the doors within 30 seconds.
4. You will hear a single chime when programming is completed and the automatic door locks feature will be deactivated.
5. To activate the feature again, follow the above steps again
Bookitty
Today for the first time I had to pass several slow cars at one time. I punched the accelerator pretty hard and without realizing it I was approaching 100 MPH when all of a sudden the engine seemed to shut off. When I slowed down to 80 the engine was running again. This is the first time I pushed my truck up to that speed (accelerated to 100 MPH). Has anyone else experienced that same situation? Please advise.
Thanks,
George
Bookitty
52,000 km (65,000 miles)
How do these engines/ transmissions stand up in COLD country?
How is the heater? Fast warm up??
Is the A/C the old freon ? Any experience with changing to the new stuff?
ANy help appreciated -- not much Dodge action here-- a real GM town!
I have a 97 and an 01. No problems. Cold or hot. The older tranny likes to be warmed up a bit on cold start up. After a few minutes it is fine.
Good luck
PS why was the head so expensive? I bet for what you paid you could almost get a rebuit motor from NAPA.
Good luck
your truck is priced too high. Contact Jeff and get some details. Print out his post and stick it under the nose of whoever is trying to sell you this truck. The 3.9 would not be my choice (as well as the choice of many others on this forum) as you get less power for the same or more fuel consumption. Best of luck. Don't hesitate to contact any of us on this forum. We are a friendly group and there is lots of information available.
Bookitty
HEAVY ACCELERATION WITH A "K" CAR !! HAHAHAHAHAHHA
Is that when ya find out the liquor store is about to close? hahahahahhahaha
take care, let me know how the new rug fits..later. Ger
There is something very wrong with this picture.
Seemed sometimes I would wake up and see another complete blotch of paint gone.
It appeared that some may have started from a scratch, and I had a couple of 1-3 inch blotches and 1 ~ 5 inch blotch of paint gone also..Primer paint looked good underneath.
Again I state that it appeared that there was a deep scratch on the paint first then that
area paint would come off,,peel off over time..Since it was only my quick replacement truck till I got my newer one, I didn't do anything about it..I had the truck for ~ 9 months..and didnt have any big paint pieces fallen off before i bought it, but a lot of smaller ones. which the previous owner just painted over it with touch up..
In your case it may be too late to do anything. I don't know how long they can be considered legally responsible.
Dakota (4.7) for the first time in the morning, it runs for about 5-10 seconds then the RPM drops down below 500 and either dies or comes very close to dying before kicking back up and is then fine. Any advice would be helpful.
You may find more info in the Dodge Dakota Owners - Maintenance Topic forum.
We'll fill you in on our oddessy with the fumbling cold idle.
Here is a simple test for you to try.
Drive over the same hilly route with the cruise control off. Try to maintain a set speed, just as you're expecting the cruise to do. I will guess the truck will act in the same manner as with the cruise on.
Cruise is most effective on roads that you could normally maintain a steady speed without too much change in accelerator position. Steeper grades make this difficult. The xmission will downshift based on throttle position and rpm to keep the engine from lugging. Turning the overdrive off on this type of terrain helps.
Jim H
Still the engine is a smooth one so I will let you all know how my next trip goes before the end of June. Thanks again out there!
Technically, the 4.7L V8 Hemi can produce MORE power than the ol' 318.
What I mean is that the 4.7L V8 Hemi is tuned differently than the ol' 318. With a less torque being produced, the power is now generated at much higher RPMs. Right around 3000 RPMs, there is a very sharp increase in power which can be easilly felt.(20-30 HP gain) Below 3000RPMs, the 4.7L produces less torque than the 318... thus less power.
Since POWER = TORQUE X RPM we can see how this all fits together.
If one has the new automatic xmission that is DESIGNED for the 4.7L V8 Hemi. This xmission is supposed to keep the engine in the proper RPM range for the load and throttle position.
Ill bet your choice of rear end ratio has an effect on how the new xmissin interacts with the crusecontrol going up hills.