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Volkswagen Golf Electrical/Lighting Questions



  • Did you ever find out what the problem is? The reason I ask is that I am having the same problem...I have a 2003 Golf (automatic) and sometimes when I accelerate, the car jerks forward. There is no pattern as to when it happens, but it usually happens within 5-10 minutes of driving. I have taken it into the dealership a few times, but of course, they can't replicate the problem or find anything wrong. I was hoping that you may found out what the problem is and how to fix it...
  • Thanks for the reply and the advice, jdiaz3. Yes, you are right, I took the car to the VW dealership today and they diagnosed the ignition switch was faulty, replaced it and it seems to be working fine now, I decided to go to the dealership as it's such a pain to get in under/behind the steering wheel. BTW the replacement part is $44 here in Canada + about $200 labour!!
  • insomniinsomni Posts: 4
    I had the same problem a while ago when I had an oil and filter change. The beeping noise drove me nuts. I thought it was my indicators and replaced them. Check the type of oil you are using or the type of oil that was used in your car. I found that VW engines need a high viscosity oil. I use a Castrol 10w40 grade even in the summer. No more beeping
  • 3 niggly little electrical problems with my 97 VW Golf CL... has anyone had similar?
    1. Both front and rear indicators on drivers side flash very fast and very faintly when indicating a left turn. Bulbs are good. Right indicators are working fine.
    2. Intermittent windshield wiper has died, but other speeds are working fine.
    3. Hatchback door no longer opens with the electronic button key, however, it will open when I press the button in the glove box. All other functions (doors, alarm etc) on the electronic key still work. :D
    I know that the local VW dealer will charge me a fortune just to find out what might be wrong.
  • brkdwnbrkdwn Posts: 3
    In fun, I recently replaced my heater core in my car--and at the time it was the only thing that was wrong. Once I had the dash completely reassembled my car would not start. When attempting to turn over, there was a clicking sound (starter) followed by the cd player trying to eject repeatedly, then the alarm would click weakly trying to go off, finally succeeding. I was told that if the battery was not fully charged this would happen. Charged the battery and it is doing the same thing. Any ideas since my reassembly was the reverse order of the removal?
    Thanks kindly.
  • Hi
    I have a 2000 Golf. The clock and odometer both just went out. Does anyone know why and how to fix it?
  • Hello, I have a 2001 1.8T Golf, and I love it!!! Recently I have been having trouble, my car will not start up first thing in the morning. It will stall about two times and when I finally get it started, the engine will idle about 1000 rpms higher than the normal idle. After warming it up it runs great for the rest of the day. My check engine light has been on, the problems are; P0116 Engine Coolant Temp CKT Rang/Perf and P1296 Manfacurer(Not spelled wrong?) Contrl.Fuel Air Metering. I was just wondering if anyone knew exactly what part I should be buying. My brother said he would work on it but he is not used to German cars and he does not know where to start. Thanks to anyone who helps me along the way. PS. I just recently replaced my water pump, thought the P0116 error would go away.
  • i have a 2001 golf. when i press the brake to go from park to drive, it seems that the locking mechanism won't disengage leaving me stranded in park. it won't shift from park to drive and seems to be totally locked up. had to tow it to mechanic. anyone have the same problem?
  • When I had a problem with the fob not funcionting correctly, the dealer suggested I bring it in. After much grunting and many I don't knows, they just put the key in the lock and turned it. Problem fixed! I dont know why they didn't just sugget I try this before stopping in. Apparently actually using the key resets the system. Might save you a trip. :D
  • About 2 months ago my engine light came on and went off (reset?) after I turned the car off and restarted it. Now it has happened again, but wont turn off.

    I had a problem 2 years ago with carbon build up in my EGR valve, to the point that the car would not start. Only at that time there was no indication or warning of impending trouble.

    Does anyone think I should have the this could indicate another build up of carbon? I've been using the lower sulfur fuel, but stopped using additive. Would simply using additive again help?

    I love my TDI, but just spent $$ on new brakes and would like to avoid any costly repairs right now. 65,000 miles, I know to change the belt around 80k. Ideas? :confuse:
  • 2001 1.8t GLS
    Same problem. Mechanic said fault coses were all over and wouldn't repeat. I just warm it up and drive normally after that.
    I replaced a taillight bulb last night, tested it, and now my interior lights, moon roof and windows don't work. Fuses are fine.
    Any thoughts on that?
  • Am going to view one of these in the near future. I believe it may be the newer shape. Asking price is £400.00, full MOT and 3 months' tax. Are there any problems to watch out for and how many different 1600 diesel models were there made? I think it is a good car as I had a 1300 petrol about 2 years ago which was on an E plate.
  • We have a L Reg golf which has starterd to suffer from a strange electrical fault. When you try to use either the front/rear windscreen wipers, or the ventilation fan, they seem dead. Yet after about 10 to 30 minutes they start working.

    Has anyone had a similar problem?

  • guayoguayo Posts: 3
    I seem to have the same problem with my 1998 Golf. The car won't start anytime there's a little cold weather (early in the morning and late night) Whenever I can start it, have to step in the gas for some time, (if not the car stops at idle speed). Some other times this happens after running 1 mile or so.
    The technician, says there's no error code from the scanner and has replaced an electrical device which name I don't know (it's not the alternator, but a winding connected to the distributor) It helped for four days, but with winter season entering the region, I have the same problem. Where should I continue? :sick:
  • rokyroky Posts: 3
    I take my golf to WV dilership and its there 3-4 days..They cant find why fuse for a position lights on right side burning all the time,specialy when car are in motion..So if anybody know what is the problem,please help me..I am sick giving them a money and they dont fix anything,or they dont know to fix it..
  • rokyroky Posts: 3
    :mad: I take my golf to WV dilership and its there 3-4 days..They cant find why fuse for a position lights on right side burning all the time,specialy when car are in motion..So if anybody know what is the problem,please help me..I am sick giving them a money and they dont fix anything,or they dont know to fix it..
  • Hi
    I have a 1995 Golf. The clock, odometer and fuel gauge all just went out. Does anyone know why and how to fix it?
    Please help!!!
  • guayoguayo Posts: 3
    Finally the problem was solved, since there was no error code form the scanner, the technician focussed in the electrical devices. It turned out that the distributor had a little fracture that would enlarge at cold wheather preventing the engine from starting and stopping after a few miles. :)
  • I have the same problem with my 2004 golf. Sometimes, especially if it's been sitting for 6 or more hours, I will start the car and the generator/battery light comes on. That's when I can't put it into drive. The manual says to rev the engine a bit when that light stays on and while in park. That worked for me last night. I still brought it to the dealership today but they couldn't find anything that was directly causing this. They did replace the brake light switch and the technician said this MIGHT be the cause.

    Anyone know for sure why the car won't shift out of park?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Obviously, if the owners manual mentions it, this is designed into the vehicle. I suspect it is a "safety feature" that disables the shift lever unless the engine is running. An easy way for a designer to check for engine running is to check that alternator is putting out voltage.... thus the associotion with the alternator light.

    Even though I have answered your question about "...why the car won't shift out of park?" I suspect you really should be asking why the alternator is needs to be "nudged" a bit before it starts generating power.... but that is not the question you asked so I will withhold the answer to that one 8-)
  • Hi my 1994 Golf 3 has a problem that the battery goes flat after about 4 days if the car is not driven.

    Its had a new battery and alternator and after a bit of work with an ammeter I discovered that with the car parked and everything switched off 32 mA is being drawn somewhere. I checked all the circuits which are protected by fuses and apart from the radio which was drawing about 1.5 mA there was nothing yet an ammeter connected betweeen the battery +ve and the small red wire (not the starter cable) shown this 32 mA current drain.

    Does anyone have any idea where to look for the component (s) causing this current leakage? Many thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,496
    Well you could keep the ammeter connected and pull the fuses one by one (remembering your radio codes I hope if you have one of those anti-theft radios)...if the ammeter drops after pulling one fuse, at least you know which circuit to look at.

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  • Further to a previous post about an electrical leakage problem on a Golf Mk 3 (1994) I have tracked down the cause of the power leakage to the central lockin g / alarm system.

    If I remove the fuse from the interior lights etc, the current drain almost stops (just leaves 10mA for the clock and the radio) but then the alarm and the central locking dont work anymore. Is there a way I can isolate the alarm system and leave the central locking operational as I suspect the alarm is causing the power drain. (If I open a door then the power usage doubles even with the interior lights off).
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The answer is obviously "yes" ...Depending on how comfortable you are with electronics.

    You have done very well isolating the problem to a specific fuse. At this point you would need to have the schematic diagrams to determine what you can do next.

    Of course... it is possible to actually FIX the problem with the schematic diagrams and some basic electronic troubleshooting skills.

    I wonder if you can locate a connector for the wires feeding each door.... (Perhaps behind the plastic facia on the inside of each door.) You may be able to unplug each of these to isolate each door from the circuit. (Dont forget that the trunk and the hood may be part of the alarm circuit too)
  • I've had a similiar problem with my 2003 Golf. (The warranty just expired as well...) Suddenly, on mornings, cold mornings, it will not turn over or even crank. But, it will start up later in the afternoon, just fine. I took it to the dealership and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. They kept it over night, said they ran diagnostics on it, and found no problem, they cleaned the battery and did something with the "LLs?". Charged me $125 for it. I got the car back and the following morning, no start. Same problem. Car refuses to start in the morning. This sounds like it's a common problem with this car apparently from this forum and others i have found. I'm making a list of possible causes and bringing it into the dealership. I feel let down by VW. I really love my car, but it's pretty useless to me if i can't rely on it to start in the mornings.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,496
    Hmmm...possibly a bad starter relay...or, less likely, a battery that hasn't really been "load tested". Batteries, especially weak ones, will lose an enormous percentage of their power if they are exposed to zero or below temperatures, but can operate fairly normally once warmed up.

    You could try a jump start when your car doesn't start cold. If it kicks right off, there you go---battery.

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  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I agree with mr_shiftright - you should not blame the vehicle until the battery has been certified. I wonder when you last equilized your battery? (make sure all cells have same charge in them)

    Most auto-parts sellers will perfom a free battery load-test. The "Advance Auto" near me puts the battery into a special computerized unit which charges - checks - verifies and loadtests the battery. (A very exhaustive testing process that takes about 20 minutes)

    HINT: If it turns out that you need to replace your battery. I suggest that you opt for the battery which goes into the DIESEL Gulf. It will fit right into your Gulf and provide better starting power.
  • I have a 2001 vw golf. I have no power at all,I changed my alternator, checked my battery and fuses. What other thing's can I check to see why I have no power?
  • I have a '94 Golf. The turning indicators work fine until I hit the brake pedal. When the brake is applied, the front and rear indicators stop flashing. When I take my foot off the brake, they start flashing again.

    But actually the above is only true during the daytime when the headlights are off. At night, when I indicate a left or right turn, the hazard lights come on but they flash very slowly. This is true even when I am not applying the brakes.

    Does anyone have any ideas?

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Sounds like some bad grounds in the circuit.
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