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I was wondering how you got on with your problem of the engine cutting out ? I have exactly the same problem and was about to try the injection cleaning fluid but wont bother now I know it doesnt work. I know of another person with a similar problem so its obviously a known issue and you would have thought that a solution was available.
Cheers.
Fuse #22 controls the radio. It is a 10 amp red fuse.
This info. is from my '96 Golf's Owner's Manual. Hope this helps.
i bought a golf tdi 150 02 plate a few weeks ago. Everything was fine and running well until last week as the weather was wet the dash would say LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT open. it wasnt! noticed it happens consistently when wet! then yesterday when pressing the key fob to alarm the car, the locks went down but the indicators did not flash to confirm alarm was on. continued today. any ideas?
are the two problems connected? could it be the boot sensor?
cheers!
we had exactly the same problem and now have other problems, apart from advising you to sell it, we would suggest to take the car to a garage that has electronic diagnostic testing device, they will put the car on and re-set the ECU back to factory settings. Hope this helps
1. Both front and rear indicators on drivers side flash very fast and very faintly when indicating a left turn. Bulbs are good. Right indicators are working fine.
2. Intermittent windshield wiper has died, but other speeds are working fine.
3. Hatchback door no longer opens with the electronic button key, however, it will open when I press the button in the glove box. All other functions (doors, alarm etc) on the electronic key still work.
I know that the local VW dealer will charge me a fortune just to find out what might be wrong.
Thanks kindly.
I have a 2000 Golf. The clock and odometer both just went out. Does anyone know why and how to fix it?
I had a problem 2 years ago with carbon build up in my EGR valve, to the point that the car would not start. Only at that time there was no indication or warning of impending trouble.
Does anyone think I should have the this could indicate another build up of carbon? I've been using the lower sulfur fuel, but stopped using additive. Would simply using additive again help?
I love my TDI, but just spent $$ on new brakes and would like to avoid any costly repairs right now. 65,000 miles, I know to change the belt around 80k. Ideas? :confuse:
Same problem. Mechanic said fault coses were all over and wouldn't repeat. I just warm it up and drive normally after that.
I replaced a taillight bulb last night, tested it, and now my interior lights, moon roof and windows don't work. Fuses are fine.
Any thoughts on that?
Has anyone had a similar problem?
Thanks
The technician, says there's no error code from the scanner and has replaced an electrical device which name I don't know (it's not the alternator, but a winding connected to the distributor) It helped for four days, but with winter season entering the region, I have the same problem. Where should I continue? :sick:
Thanks..
Thanks
I have a 1995 Golf. The clock, odometer and fuel gauge all just went out. Does anyone know why and how to fix it?
Please help!!!
Anyone know for sure why the car won't shift out of park?
Even though I have answered your question about "...why the car won't shift out of park?" I suspect you really should be asking why the alternator is needs to be "nudged" a bit before it starts generating power.... but that is not the question you asked so I will withhold the answer to that one 8-)
Its had a new battery and alternator and after a bit of work with an ammeter I discovered that with the car parked and everything switched off 32 mA is being drawn somewhere. I checked all the circuits which are protected by fuses and apart from the radio which was drawing about 1.5 mA there was nothing yet an ammeter connected betweeen the battery +ve and the small red wire (not the starter cable) shown this 32 mA current drain.
Does anyone have any idea where to look for the component (s) causing this current leakage? Many thanks.
If I remove the fuse from the interior lights etc, the current drain almost stops (just leaves 10mA for the clock and the radio) but then the alarm and the central locking dont work anymore. Is there a way I can isolate the alarm system and leave the central locking operational as I suspect the alarm is causing the power drain. (If I open a door then the power usage doubles even with the interior lights off).
You have done very well isolating the problem to a specific fuse. At this point you would need to have the schematic diagrams to determine what you can do next.
Of course... it is possible to actually FIX the problem with the schematic diagrams and some basic electronic troubleshooting skills.
I wonder if you can locate a connector for the wires feeding each door.... (Perhaps behind the plastic facia on the inside of each door.) You may be able to unplug each of these to isolate each door from the circuit. (Dont forget that the trunk and the hood may be part of the alarm circuit too)
You could try a jump start when your car doesn't start cold. If it kicks right off, there you go---battery.
Most auto-parts sellers will perfom a free battery load-test. The "Advance Auto" near me puts the battery into a special computerized unit which charges - checks - verifies and loadtests the battery. (A very exhaustive testing process that takes about 20 minutes)
HINT: If it turns out that you need to replace your battery. I suggest that you opt for the battery which goes into the DIESEL Gulf. It will fit right into your Gulf and provide better starting power.
But actually the above is only true during the daytime when the headlights are off. At night, when I indicate a left or right turn, the hazard lights come on but they flash very slowly. This is true even when I am not applying the brakes.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
Also, yesterday, my stereo refused to turn on. It was working fine the day before, then I got into my car and start it the next day, and my radio is dead. The alarm light is blinking, so it just looks like the stereo doesn't realize the car is on. Could this be connected to the sunroof issue? Again, any ideas?
My going theory is that rough roads have jiggled some connections loose. I live in Colorado, and we have some major side street issues at the moment. We have ice ruts 4-6 inches high and only a little pavement showing. It's been a very bumpy ride for the past 4 weeks. Is that plausible, or am I missing something more obvious? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. :confuse: I want to banish these bizzare electrical gremlins from my car!
I am having the exact same problems. Have you had any luck with either issue?
The car just stalls out whenever it wants. It seems to do it more when the car is warmed up. This is the fourth time it's been in the shop in 4 months. It's always one reason or another as to whey this happens.
The oil light first came on when I was leaving the highway. I pulled over and checked all the oils and everything was fine. The light, at first, only came on when slowing down from high speeds, pick up the speed/rpms and it would go out. Now it just comes on whenever, but only seems to happen when the car is warmed up.
The car is at VW right now. Let's see what they say today.
While they had my car, I had them check my stereo, and it was inoperable becuase of a blown fuse. The fuse was replaced, and the stereo works fine again, but they said I'll need to get a new stereo if the fuse blows again. A second blown fuse would indicate that it's the stereo itself that was shorting out.
I asked about the sunroof strangeness (the opening and closing on its own), and they pretty much told me that it would be an extensive (also meaning expensive) diognostic to do becuase of all the visual wiring checks required and they would also have to try to re-create the issue. Since I got the sunroof to stop moving on its own, and it still responds to its controls, I opted to not have them look at it at this time. I figure I'll wait for it to get worse so it will be easier for someone to recreate the situation.
Has anybody had this happen with their sunroof before? Will it get worse? What was the cause? Any information on this issue would still be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
First time here, so please forgive me if I am using it incorrectly.
My problem just recently started:
My "open door" indicator light goes on and off randomly if the door is shut or open. Mainly it is just plain annoying. I'll be driving, and it will decide to tell me my door is open...when it is not.
If I hit the panel right next to my handle and lock, it sometimes goes off...
Can I just cut the wire to it?
Remove the fuse...?
ANy help is appreciated... :mad:
There are several microSwitches in each door on a circuitboard. Please check the following links which explain. ($3 fix)
Door Switch link
Another DoorSwitch link
The location is correct, but the part you described is actually the coil/ignition control unit. You will need a special torx socket to remove the two bolts that secure the unit to the firewall....
My technician says that the on-board computer tells him that the crank sensor has a problem but would that be affected by heat?
At my wits end - any help would be appreciated.