Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

elroy5 · December 2006

What kind of fluid do you have in the tranny? Has it ever been changed? A good flush with some Honda ATF-Z1 might solve the harsh shifting issue.

ronaldom · December 2006

Elroy, I found here a "almost" new AT control unit and instaled it, but it not works, the problem still the same, flashing D4, no authomatic shift, etc. As my original AT-CU was fired, this "almost" new will help me to solve the AT problem. Now I can hear, eventually, a noise (like a on/off os a strong relay) in the bottom/middle of the dashboard, just behind the radio. Any idea what it could be? :confuse:

lorenrne · December 2006

I have a 1990 Honda Accord, and when I have the automatic lever in D4 or D3, it seems to be stuck in 2nd gear. When taking off it is very sluggish because it is stuck in 2nd, but I can put it in 1 and then it has lots of power. With the car off, but the key on, when I put it in D4 it makes a ticking noise that seems to come from one of two small cylinders under the hood on top of the transmission. The green S is also lit, and pushing the little button on the gear shift won't change it. Does this sound like something electronic that can I can replace on my own?

acccorddx05 · January 2007

Hello,
I bought an Accord 05 DX(Basic Model). It has power windows, but no power door locks. I wantd to get keyless entry installed on it. I bought the door actuators, the trunk pop actuator and an alarm to go with it, but the mechanic at frys told me that this car has cable locks unlike the normal rod lcoks that these cars have and so it is very difficult ot get power door locks on it. Please give me some ideas on how I could get it installed on the my car. I appreciate your help!
Thanks and Happy New Year!

user777 · January 2007

This may help:
Go here and read the part on the Security option (and it not adding keyless entry to the DX model):
http://www.handaccessories.com/accelect03.html

Go here and see an exploded view of the DX lock mechanism:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - - cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=2005&catcgry3=4DR+DX&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=FRONT+DOOR+LO- - - CKS

Compare to the LX:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - - cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=2005&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=FRONT+DOOR+LO- - - CKS

Perhaps there is a way to purchase the necessary additional or substitute parts to change the lock in the driver's door. Maybe by comparing the images (they look the same to me) and parts (probably the DX and LX differ by the additional mechanism attached to the lock assembly for actuating it electronically), but, you'd have to determine if the other wiring to the door is there to support the addition of keyless) and then speaking with a parts department specialist, you can see if it's possible or not.

93akkord · January 2007

My son has a 93 Accord standard tranny 16 valve engine. Last night he went to get gas and it wouldn't start, the lights, radio and windows all worked, so we push started it. He got her home and tried and it started right up. Today he noticed fuel leaking around one of the fuel injectors, and has tried starting it and nothing happens. What is the problem????

93akkord · January 2007

My son has a 93 Accord standard tranny 16 valve engine. Last night he went to get gas and it wouldn't start, the lights, radio and windows all worked, so we push started it. He got her home and tried and it started right up. Today he noticed fuel leaking around one of the fuel injectors, and has tried starting it and nothing happens. What is the problem????

Mr_Shiftright · January 2007

if it push-started, then your ignition and fuel are fine. If the headlights were strong, this all points to a bad starter motor, starter relay (solenoid) or defective ignition switch circuit from the switch to the starter. Since a bad ignition switch isn't likely to correct itself, I'm guessing a bad starter motor with a dicey armature or worn starter brushes.

lilengineerboy · January 2007

Since a bad ignition switch isn't likely to correct itself, I'm guessing a bad starter motor with a dicey armature or worn starter brushes.
I have had to replace both so far (2 years apart so they were different problems).

93akkord · January 2007

Thanks! you were correct! It was a bad starter after all. Not cheap, either!

Mr_Shiftright · January 2007

Gee...right for a change! You made my day!

Glad you got 'er done!

lilengineerboy · January 2007

I checked my maintenance schedule for the 93 Accord EX w/140k and realized it has been a little while since I did plugs (~35k & 2 years) and I don't have wires on there ever. Recently, my fuel economy has been slipping and I am hearing some detonation when accelerating under load. I have also never replaced the O2 sensor, but the car hasn't told me to either.
I have used the NGK plugs in the past and been very happy. I was thinking about going with platinum tips this time (I think iridium is overkill for a stock N/A motor, esp w/140k).
I am also looking for an OEM or slightly better spark plug wire set (not Nology or something overkill like that).
Lastly, the muffler is starting to get eaten. I might patch it to get through the winter but come spring I should probably look at replacing it. It was pretty easy to find an over-axle pipe/muffler assembly for the Civic, but not so much for the Accord. I wanted it to be bolt on so I could do it myself (borrowing a welder is kind of a PITA for me).
Any thoughts?

user777 · January 2007

with winter formulations fuel, expect some hit.

do you note a lack of power? maybe the hole in your muffler is really big.

i'm thinking maybe stuck/clogged injectors, or the cat needs replacing. i suppose of that vintage, i'd go aftermarket cat.

hard to say what is contributing.

elroy5 · January 2007

I would suggest stock OEM plug wires, they are NGK by the way. I would also suggest getting an OEM muffler (I have tried cheap mufflers before and regretted it) that will bolt right up, and the stock stainless pipe will last much longer than most aftermarket piping.

javaman4 · January 2007

Had to pull fuse for power door locks because battery was draining. Could hear click, click when engine off and realized that click stopped when I pulled fuse. Short in power locks? Any suggestions for diagnosing problem?

user777 · January 2007

possibly a faulty power lock switch or lock plunger. i guess you need to figure out which door is responsible. i think you'll have to pull the switch assemblies to do that.

javaman4 · January 2007

I suppose that I have to remove the door panel to get at it?

elroy5 · January 2007

I suppose that I have to remove the door panel to get at it?

definitely. You have to remove two screws. One in the door opening handle, and one in the door closing handle. Then carefully pry the panel off, then lift up. Good luck

haywwl · January 2007

I'm trying to install a block heater. Does anyone know the location of the frost/freeze plugs? I know they are on the block, but not sure where. I've looked over the engine several times, but could not see them. Are they hiding beneath other equipment?

angryjohnny · January 2007

Have 90 Accord DX with an exhaust leak on the engine side of the cat. Leak seems to be at the braided flex joint before it enters the cat. I need a parts break down for this exhaust. Not sure if it is all one piece from the manifold to the cat. Any and all information is appreciated.

lilengineerboy · January 2007

Majestic Honda
This is one of the best online parts sources. I guessed that your car was a 4dr/auto so you might have to go back and change it (or to double check)
HTH

jawdy101 · January 2007

I HAVE A 92 ACCORED EX MAILY FREEWAY MILES BUT IAM NOW GOING ON 359,000 MILES, AND NOT MUCH MAJOR MAINT..THE BIGGEST THING IVE HAD TO REPLACE IS AN O-RING BEHIND THE OIL COOLER , A FEW CV JOINTS HERE AND THEREAND THATS IT..MONTHLY MAINT AND SHE RUNS FINE..OH THE ANTENNA MOTOR JUST WENT OUT ABOUT 5K MILES AGO

jplumm · February 2007

Did you change the O-ring behind the oil cooler yourself? Did you take the cooler hoses off? I can't seem to get in there with any tools to get them off. Any tips?

How did you know that it was the oil cooler o-ring you needed to replace?
(I have 92 Accord EX going on same amount of miles, good little machine)

jimandkriss · February 2007

Did you get any answers?
I have the exact same problem.
Mine's in the shop being diagnosed.

Pls reply: jr2_stl@myrealbox.com

Kindest regards,

Jim Rothwell
St. Ann, MO

stealth_b · February 2007

I just installed an air intake on my car and it idles high and i want to know how exactly do you adjust the throttle on a 91 honda accord. I adjust the throttle cable by making it tighter but I dont know if that is what i wanted.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2007

Please keep any answers "public" in this forum rather than private through e-mail, so that we can all benefit from them.

lilengineerboy · February 2007

Did you change the throttle body or just the intake? If you didn't change the throttle body or that cable, adjusting won't fix the problem.
You have a vacuum leak somewhere, or debris is in the system. Changing the intake shouldn't affect idle speed at all (unless you had to disconnect the battery, then the computer might have to relearn the idle speed).

elroy5 · February 2007

The throttle cable is supposed to have 3/8" to 1/2" of slack in it. That is not the way to adjust the idle speed. There is an idle adjustment screw on the throttle body where the vacume hoses are (should be just below the red colored braided hose). There may be a rubber cover over the screw though, which is easy to remove.

kchastain · February 2007

My accord's door locked and won't open. It won't open with the key or the power locks on the inside. I had to get out of the car via the passenger side. What can I do?

elroy5 · February 2007

The actuator has become disconnected or jammed. The door panel would have to be removed to find out exactly what the problem is. My guess is disconnected.

user777 · February 2007

this may help:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1990&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=FRONT+DOOR+LO- CK

do you live near a pull-it place?

jplov23 · February 2007

i have a 90 accord. when ever i drive there is a violent shake and popping noise coming from somewhere the the front end. i have replaced suspension, axles, upper control arm, and rack and pinion and cross member. i have no clue what is wrong. if anyone can help me please leave me feedback.

elroy5 · February 2007

Broken motor mounts. Do this: Start the car, put it in drive (don't park too close to anything), hold the brake pedal down FIRMLY, get an assistant to stand to the side of the car (hood open), press down on the accelerator pedal (only slightly), get assistant to note movement of engine. Do the same thing in reverse. If the engine moves a lot, you have at least one broken mount.

pshec · February 2007

Hi there,
Last week my car stopped on a road. I change a fuel filter& pump and engine could start again. It worked for 1 day and now I can start engine if I'll push on gas pedal only. As only I'll relise the pedal it'll stop to work. Does anybody know what it could be.
Please help.

Fukuyama · February 2007

hi all,
Every time it rains , my trunk gets flooded. My best guess is the water gets in between the glass and the rubber joint(The rear lights have been sealed with silicone).
I have tried crazy glue, liquid cement but the water keeps getting in. I am thinking of drilling a small hole inside the trunk so the water can get out.

Any other suggestion? Should I replace the whole rear windshield? :sick: :sick:

lilengineerboy · February 2007

Have you checked the main relay? Did you check tht before you changed the fuel pump?

mrbill1957 · February 2007

A glass shop can reseal the window if that's where the water is coming in.

You might try crawling into the trunk with a flashlight and have someone spray the window with a hose to verify where the water is getting in.

What about the seal around the trunk lid?

Mrbill

lilengineerboy · February 2007

A glass shop can reseal the window if that's where the water is coming in.

This seems reasonably common in the Japanese cars I have owned. Make sure they use a temperature stable sealing cement. The Accord got a new windshield while living in CA. Now it lives in MI and the windshield creeks and crackles as it warms up and cools off.

speed1205 · February 2007

1991 Honda Accord LX - L4 2.2L 5speed/sx FWD

Okay so about a few months ago my car started making this odd klunking noise whenever I gave it gas, only when I gave it gas. It was so powerful I could easily feel the klunking and I figured it was my drivers side driveaxle, got a new driver's side driveaxle.
Okay so I was driving home today on the highway with my new Driver's side driveaxle and thought the problem was fixed - WRONG! It started making the horrible klunking noise again! I'm pretty sure it's not the passenegr side driveaxle... like 95% sure it's not.

Please help me, thank you!

user777 · February 2007

have you changed the battery? maybe the idle relearn must be redone.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2007

could very well be the passenger side, as that one takes up the most torque and thus is more prone to wear.

Other than that, you'd want to check motor mounts. But don't despair if you replaced the wrong side; generally it's a great idea to do both at the same time.

Fukuyama · February 2007

hi, thank you for your replies. I now it is the rubber 'cause i did the following experiment. I flooded the canal taht surrounds the trunk's rubber....no water got in . Then I paintakingly poured water drops on the glass and the ran down to the rubber joint but never got into the canal. This time water got in.

Can I do the repair myself? any glue that can hold and seal the opening?

cheers

Mr_Shiftright · February 2007

I would recommend you buy some LATEX black caulk. Latex is great because it cleans up with water and it goes on easily---no mess, no fuss, like that ghastly silicon sealer. You can just squeeze some of the caulk onto your finger and apply it to the area of the windshield you think is leaking, then carefully clean up the excess with a damp rag or Q-Tip. Try to work the latex sealant under the rubber if you can using a little pick or ball point pen or some such to open it up a little. Let it cure before you test it again. If it still leaks, try again.

73customc10 · February 2007

hey im new to this site. i just bought a 90 honda accord 4dr ex. for 300 bucks on ebay. 158,000 miles. car is mint. no rust!!!! i gave it a super tuneup. best wires,plugs,cap,rotor,o2 sensor,new cold air intake,and header. new battary, and alternator, put a valve cover gasket in. my question is the trans shifts crazy hard without the sport button. i had camaros, and trucks with shift kits and this car feels like it has one. Is this normal?? and i have a slight oil leak. i heard it could be from the head gasket??? if it was that the car would barly run right??? all commits are welcome. thanks

elroy5 · February 2007

Accords of that year do shift hard (they don't flare between shifts like other automatics do). Have you checked the transmission fluid? You might want to flush the transmission, and use Honda ATF-Z1. Other brands of fluid make the hard shifting worse.

73customc10 · February 2007

ok it is a little dirty i will get a trans flush this weekend. but what does the sport buttin do?? i tried too use it. it dosent make a difference. or it might but i cant tell. ????

elroy5 · February 2007

It is supposed to be a "Sport mode" to make the tranny shift faster. The sport mode buttons were only used in 90 and 91, and I had the 92, and it was discontinued by then. I would use the Honda brand trans fluid. A flush is considered to be three changes, with a short drive between each. One drain and fill will use 3 quarts, which is only about 65% of the total transmission volume. If you are going to do it yourself (flush), you will need 9 quarts of fluid.

73customc10 · February 2007

ok thanks for the tip.. that was my next questing was how many qurts i will need..

lilengineerboy · February 2007

A brief story...
So I am driving to work yesterday morning and I smell burning oil. I look up and there is an F250 superduty in front of me so I don't think much of it. Then I look down and the oil light is blinking. I pull over immediately and stop, shut off the motor and pop the hood. I pull the dipstick, which registered absolutely empty. I look down and the Exxon Valdeez is being re-enacted at my feet. The car is puking its guts out.

AAA tow to the Honda dealer...dealer says counterbalance shaft oil seal went, need to do the timing belt change service (previously done at ~80k) to get to the part...blah blah blah...$700 later I have all new belts and seals and a new water pump. Its at 140k right now, it damn well better get to 200 after that.

The dealer also said it had a bad control arm and wanted $350 to swap that out. I picked a TRW control arm up from the auto parts place for $90 and put it on this morning. I will be out another $40 for the alignment but 130 is better than 350.

The only thing left is it needs a muffler and over-axle pipe, which is about $100 but I keep patching it and putting it off.

It got a new master cylinder a few months back too for about $350. It also just got new tires but that is a wear item and not really fair to charge against the car. Mantenance costs are running about $1000-1200/year since most of it I still take care of myself, but I guess ~$100/mo isn't terrible for maintenance costs.

elroy5 · February 2007

I learned a lesson on the exhaust pipe and muffler. Go ahead and purchase the OEM muffler and pipe (they come in one piece). It will bolt right up, and you don't have to worry about changing it again for quite a while. Sure, an aftermarket setup may cost half the price, but the sound, combined with the fact that they only last half as long, makes the stock pipe worth the cost. The cheap aftermarket muffler made the whole car vibrate, and I was beginning to think something was wrong with the engine. After installing the OEM muffler, the engine sounded like brand new again. The difference was amazing.

Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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