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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • erchavezerchavez Member Posts: 5
    Got it. The drain connection is right under the glove box on my 94 accord. I pulled off the hose and water went everywhere! The blockage was up in the catchpan not in the hose. I just took a peice of wire and poked it back up into the catch pan to clear the debris.
  • erchavezerchavez Member Posts: 5
    I have an engine sputter that seems to occur between 1500 & 2700 rpm. Outside of that range its fine. I have no check engine light and the local Goodyear guy says its the dist & rotor....Replaced those as well as the plug wires and plugs.....injectors ar cycling and have the correct resistance between terminals (2.5 ohms).

    Anyone got any ideas? I'm stumped!
  • erchavezerchavez Member Posts: 5
    Never Mind.....clogged EGR ports in my air intake.
  • keenanknightkeenanknight Member Posts: 2
    Hi all,

    I have a 96 honda accord with 180000 miles have a speedometer that goes from swinging wildly to dead.....odometer and cruise control only works when the speedometer works. Tachometer works at all times....engine seems to lurch at times as well. believe it is the vehicle speed sensor but want to be sure before i order it. when i look at auto zone or e bay it shows a small control unit or 1 with cords coming off of it....i dont understand which one i need.....also is this just off of the distributor? any help with testing, removal, and replacement would be great.....is ordering one off of e bay ok? thanks, keenan
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    This link is mostly about 90-93 Accords, but your car is probably very similar. It has troubleshooting, so you can test parts. Good luck :D
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/vss.html
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I should mention here that my '96 Accord LX had its odometer/speedometer fail at 111k miles. It wasn't the VSS.

    Not sure how you'd check to see if it was one or the other, as my speedo jumped around (going from showing proper speed, to zero).
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I should mention here that my '96 Accord LX had its odometer/speedometer fail at 111k miles. It wasn't the VSS.

    That's why it's important to diagnose/trouble-shoot a problem, before just guessing a part. Good point.
    The speedo clusters have been known to go out too (do you know some of them were made by Ford? :surprise: )
  • bkempebkempe Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Honda Accord. I recently purchased an iPod, and an FM transmitter for it. The cigarette lighter was spinning around, so that the iPod wouldn't stay were I wanted it to. So, I pulled that panel off, and saw that the rear portion of the cigarette lighter wasn't attached. I screwed the two pieces together, then put the panel back together. Since I was't doing anything significan to the electrical system, I left the battery connected. Once I got things put back together, the cigarette ligher didn't work AND the radio back lights would come on, but not the radio. Does anybody have any ideas where I should look for either a broken wire or have I totally screwed up the car?
  • timtaylor1986timtaylor1986 Member Posts: 1
    I just got a 1997 Honda Accord Special Edition. The check engine light was on when I bought it. I went to auto zone to use there tester and I couldn't find where to plug in (typically under the steering wheel), the worker couldn't find it either. Any ideas? Can you turn the check engine light off with a sequence of operations like other Honda's? Thanks!
  • keenanknightkeenanknight Member Posts: 2
    Tim,

    On my 96 the plug is behind the ash tray....try pulling the ash tray out and it should be right there......good luck....ktk
  • daves14daves14 Member Posts: 2
    The radio and lighter are on the same circuit, I suggest you check the fuse, under the hood, passenger side, on top near the windshield.
  • daves14daves14 Member Posts: 2
    Same thing happened to me. To remove the center console see directions at http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/Honda/PDF/466037.pdf . I removed the 15A fuse for the radio and lighter circuit before doing this to prevent shorting out the circuit. The female part of the lighter when you use it screws into a larger female cylinder behind the console. (A transgender part).
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    keenanknight is correct about location of the OBD-2 connection, behind the ash tray
    I believe that you must use a code reader to read the OBD-2 codes.

    To turn the check engine light off.
    1. Turn the ignition switch off.
    2. Remove the BACK-UP (7.5 A) fuse from the under hood fuse/relay box for 10 seconds to reset the ECM.
    The fuse/relay box is on the passenger side near the firewall and hood hinge.
  • s10blazermans10blazerman Member Posts: 1
    ive got a 97 accord with an auto . it will drive to the bottom of my 100 yard driveway then quit. it just revs like its in neutral. if i get out and unhook the batt, and hook it back up it will drive about the same distance..... could someone please tell me what i might do to fix this situation? thanks in advance
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    More info needed.
    Does the motor quit?
    Does it do the same in all gears?
    Are you sure unhooking the battery does anything?
    Can you wait the same length of time with the motor off and move the same distance after restart ?
    Have you checked the transmission fluid level? Use only Honda compatible fluid?
    Is the check engine light on?
    How was the car acting prior to this condition? All of a sudden yes /no
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Two questions. Does the D4 light start flashing or go out (even when the car is in Drive), when this is happening? When you start the engine, is the D4 light on, even after 2 seconds (with the shift lever in Park)? These are signs that the transmission computer is toasted.
  • equalizer3equalizer3 Member Posts: 7
    i had the same problem and went ahead and replaced the float system in the tank and made sure i had a good ground. . now it works. i ran out of gas 2 times figuring it out. my gas lite works now also. these cars are something else. but im sure if u do that your probs will be solved.
    i got the float on line at carparts.com for 67.00 i have another veh. i learned not to do to a dealer. even thought a carparts place dont show it listed. if there is a will there is a way.
    dealers always mark up there parts. i get even after market parts. at least they work.
  • equalizer3equalizer3 Member Posts: 7
    check the bulb. if the trany shifts ok its not the trany. . check the ground comming off the wiring harness. the hondas esp the ones made in canada have alot of problems with ground connections.
  • equalizer3equalizer3 Member Posts: 7
    check the buld socket. or ground. if the tranny shifts ok its not that. .
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Change the Master Cylinder.
    Honda is notorious for the M/C to fail with an internal piston seal failure.
    You will not see an external leak, The fluid is bypassing the seals internally.
    Bench bleed the new MC first.
    Install M/C, snug the brake lines, leaving slightly loose.
    Press pedal to the floor and hold, tighten the lines, finish bleed all 4 wheels.
    Been There Done That on 94 and 97 Honda's.
  • chick652chick652 Member Posts: 1
    Hey Guys,
    The garage can't seem to figure this one out so any advise would be amazing since I got to travel to Boston this weekend.

    Here is a little back ground (please keep in mind that I'm a rookie so bare with me)

    I have a 1997 Honda Accord with Air conditioning. It has an air conditioning fan and a Radiator fan.

    My radiator fan does not come on when my car reaches a very hot temperature. It will only turn on (work) if I turn on the Car's Air Conditioning and then both fans will work.

    If my car is hot and I turn off the car and remove my keys, the Radiator fan will come on (work) until it is cool but as soon as I start the car the fan does not work.

    If anyone has an idea, I left my car at the garage in hope that I can suggest a few things as they are doing some research as well and need to give them some possible solutions asap.

    I know that they should figure this out but I don't have time to bring it anywhere else and judging by some feedbacks on this site some foks know 110% more that these mechanics.

    If you know the solution and can provide some tips I swear I will take my car to your place or who ever you recommend but this time I'm stuck with these folks and dont' feel like spending $$$ to rent a car since I'm already in the whole.

    THANK YOU, honestly thank you.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I had to have the radiator fan motor replaced in my 1996 Accord LX when it hit around 130-140k miles (I can't remember since it has been awhile). The car would overheat when not moving since there was no air movement over the radiator. Yours doesn't appear to be a total failure, which is confusing. Hopefully the others here can help you diagnose it fully.

    In the meantime, if you start overheating, turn your thermostat all the way to heat. This pulls warm air out of your engine, and could prevent total overheating/head gasket destruction. It saved me. In the meantime, since it IS July, just run the A/C, and you won't have a problem (if what you described about both fans coming on when the A/C is on is true).
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    It could be your fan "timer", but you would have to do some testing to be sure. Here is a link with troubleshooting/diagnostic. It may give you some ideas. Good luck
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html
  • jdbowenatbamajdbowenatbama Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 Honda Accord with 190000 miles. Lately its been running hot, only in the city (at redlights though) When I'm driving on the highway its fine. Ive replaced the a/c cooling fan and the engine cooling fan. I've also replaced the thermostat gauge, and flushed the radiator. It still runs hot at stop lights, I have no idea what the problem is or how to go about fixing it.

    Also, the radiator fan only works when the AC fan is on, as in, only when I have the a/c working on the interior of the car....

    I need help, any suggestions?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Go through the troubleshooting in this link. It may help you narrow the possibilities. Good luck
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html
  • equalizer3equalizer3 Member Posts: 7
    my 97 honda did the same thing. i replaced the thermostat,radiator,fluid,flushed it out and its like brand new.
    i got an after market radiator for 90$ and 2.004 for the thermostat. . make sure u tighten the thermostat. but dont strip the cover to it.
    its easy to do. get a maint book from your local autoparts store. it takes about a good day to do it.
    make sure u dont drain the old fluid on the ground.
    mite as well change the oil and check everything anyway.
    make a day of it.
  • jdbowenatbamajdbowenatbama Member Posts: 3
    thanks, im thinking it may be the water pump
  • lorafloraf Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 honda accord 4 speed automatic transmission the 4 th gear indicator has a green light surrounding it and it is constantly flashing when the key is turned on. When trying to extract trouble codes the check engine light flashes nothing, but the 4 sp indicator light flashes 7 times pauses then continues the process again flashing 7 times pausing until the key is turned off. the car struggles to go 30 mph. Does anyone have a clue as to what the flashing light is telling me?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I think you should go to the local auto parts stores, and see if they can scan for the transmission trouble-codes. I don't know of any one digit codes (7). Have you checked the fluid level?
  • kwolfekwolfe Member Posts: 1
    Hello! 1995 Accord auto with AC that timing belt broke in. Took it to shop-replaced the timing belt and water pump. It started fine-got 4 or so miles down the road and it croaked! Would not and will not start. Will turn over but not start. Have changed out distributor, cap, plugs, coil, main relay, and computer with no success. Have put the parts mentioned above in another 1995 and that car will run-put them back in this car and it does not run. It turns over, gas pump runs, fuel squirts at fuel rail. The check engine light comes on when switch is turned on and goes off as normal. The trouble code is not showing on the check engine light-it is showing on the light above it and is a 52. 52 is not a valid code and the code should show on the check engine light! The plugs are getting fire. We have tried crossing spark plug wires to see if we can at least get it to backfire or something-still nothing! Tried taking plug out and pouring small amount of gas in cylinder and still nothing-not even a backfire. We have never seen anything like this! Any good ideas? A friend of a friend said it might be a cam sensor-what are your thoughts on that? Not sure which way to go other than a flame-thrower and a bucket of gas.... :mad:
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Probable more here than you ever want to know about Honda Transmissions.
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html

    Code 7 possible "shift control solenoid A"
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    check out
    Troubleshooting the Honda Ignition System - Coil, Igniter and more
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html

    The shop that replaced the timing belt should be correcting the problem.
    Poor workmanship, timing, bent valves, incorrect cam/crank timing.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Transmission fault codes:

    Code 1: D4 light blinks:
    - Disconnected lock-up control solenoid valve A connector
    - Short or open in lock-up contorl solenoid valve A wire
    - Faulty lock-up control solenoid valve A

    Code 2: D4 light blinks:
    - Disconnected lock-up control solenoid valve B connector
    - Short or open in lock-up control solenoid valve B wire
    - Faulty lock-up control solenoid valve B

    Code 3: D4 light blinks or OFF:
    - Disconnected throttle position sensor (TP) connector
    - Short or open in TP sensor wire
    - Faulty TP sensor

    Code 4: D4 light blinks:
    - Disconnected vehicle speed sensor (VSS) connector
    - Short or open in VSS wire
    - Faulty VSS

    Code 5: D4 light blinks:
    - Short in A/T gear position switch wire
    - Faulty A/T gear position switch

    Code 6: D4 light OFF:
    - Disconnected A/T gear position switch connector
    - Open in A/T gear position switch wire
    - Faulty A/T gear position switch

    Code 7: D4 light blinks:
    - Disconnected shift control solenoid valve A connector
    - Short or open in shift control solenoid valve A wire
    - Faulty shift control solenoid valve A

    Code 8: D4 light blinks:
    - Disconnected shift control solenoid valve B connector
    - Short or open in shift control solenoid valve B wire
    - Faulty shift control solenoid valve B

    Code 9: D4 light blinks:
    - Disconnected coutershaft speed sensor connector
    - Short or open in countershaft speed sensor wire
    - Fauly countershaft speed sensor

    Code 10: D4 light blinks:
    - Disconnected engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor connector
    - Short or open in ECT sensor wire
    - Faulty ECT sensor

    Code 11: D4 light OFF:
    - Trouble in PCM

    Code 14: D4 light Blinks:
    - Trouble in PCM

    Code 15: D4 light OFF:
    - Disconnected mainshaft speed sensor connector
    - Short or open in mainshaft speed sensor wire
    - Fauly mainshaft speed sensor

    Code 16: D4 light blinks:
    - Disconnected linear solenoid connector
    - Short or open in linear solenoid wire
    - Faulty linear solenoid

    Code 17: D4 light OFF:
    - Short in kick-down switch wire
    - Faulty kick-down switch wire
  • tdufftduff Member Posts: 2
    i have a 96 accord the defroster doesn't seem to work well. the fan speed is ok ,the other positions work ok i get a green light on all but defrost. anyone got any ideas? thanx tom
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    1.) The defroster indicator light should be amber/orange, not green.

    2.) To properly defog windows, turn the A/C on and put the airflow on Fresh.
  • melanie10melanie10 Member Posts: 1
    I dont know what is wrong with my 97 honda accord but like 2wks ago i had the oil changed and i need water in my rediator and the temp. I dont know if it overheated or what, but it wont crank it has water in it and everything looks fine but someone told me that i may have a leak in hose. Help Me please!

    Melanie

    Any suggestions?
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    The folks will need more info if they are to help you.

    Oil change would not cause no start unless they didn't put oil in the car.

    Was the car running hot or not? steam, poor running ,etc
    Did you put water in the car or not? Is it still there?
    Remove radiator cap and look.
    If you run the car hot for a length of time you could have damaged the engine.

    I doubt the oil or water has anything to do with the no start.
    Does the engine turn crank over? Good Battery, jump start, etc
  • tdufftduff Member Posts: 2
    thanks i'll try it, but it doesn't seem like the defroster is opening all the way
  • phatpipephatpipe Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Honda Accord EX with an automatic transmission and 208k miles. It has started acting up lately. There are times when the car just won't start and the D4 light on the dash starts to flash. Below are the symptoms of my sick accord.

    Seems to only act up when it is hot (the engine) or extremely hot outside (air temp). Once the car cools down it starts up and runs (shifts thru all the gears) just fine. The last 2 days i have been able to drive the car to work in the morning only to come out after work and not have the car start. After waiting till the late evening hours when the outside air temps start to fall I was able to start it up and drive it home just fine. I jumped the service connector under the glove box and got what I think are 3 or 4 transmission fault codes. Below are the flashes I saw when jumping the service connector. These are all D4 flashes

    long flash, short short short
    2-3 sec pause
    short
    2-3 sec pause
    short short short short short short short
    2-3 sec pause
    short short short short short short short short

    then it repeats that order indefinitely. From doing some reading on the Internet I think the 4 codes I got were 13, 1, 7 & 8 (not exactly sure on this one). The engine light was on the entire time and from what I read that means there are no engine codes stored.


    Based on that information do you think you know what the problem is and is it something I could repair myself? Is it a major transmission problem that I am better off just selling the car and getting a new one or can this be fixed for a reasonable amount of money. When the car starts up normally the transmission works great. It has good power and you can not feel any slipping when accelerating hard, so that makes me think this is just a sensor or solenoid problem that should be somewhat easy to fix. But maybe that's just be being optimistic.

    Thanks for the advice,
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The engine light was on the entire time and from what I read that means there are no engine codes stored.

    If the check engine light is on, AutoZone should read this for free.
  • drzoltardrzoltar Member Posts: 6
    I've had a similar issue with my 1996 Honda Accord (Automatic). If the temp outside is in the 90's or above and my car has been sitting in the sun for hours, it won't start. I just get clicks and it won't turn over. I've brought it into the dealer at least twice right after this happens and their diagnostics find nothing wrong. But they do make sure to blame my after market car alarm.

    Letting the car cool solves this problem.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    phatpipe and drzoltar.
    Do you know where to find your transmission computer? If you do, take the cover off, and see if there are dark spots on the circuit boards (capacitors leaked on them). If so your transmission computer is the problem. You could find a used computer (make sure the numbers match), or some people can actually fix the old one. A new computer would cost at least $500, so that would be a last resort.

    Until you can repair the computer (if that is your problem) you may want to park the car in the shade (if possible). The inside (not outside) of the car being hot will make the problem worse. After the windows have been opened for a while the problem usually gets better. Good luck guys
  • sunhondasunhonda Member Posts: 5
    I have 155K mi on my really clean 4-cyl coupe. I could hear an exhaust leak under the hood so I took off the heat shield to the exhaust manifold and found a crack all the way around the #4 cylinder pipe where it joins together with the #1 cyl pipe. I want to do the work myself so I've already made sure I can get all the nuts loose, especially the three that connect down to the exhaust pipe. Does anyone have any experience with the best option for taking care of this? I'm thinking that getting a used one will only set me up for the same problem in the near term, unless I could be sure it had low miles on it. New OEM ones are a bit expensive ($180 best price I found online; Honda dealers want $250). Dorman makes an after-market one out of cast iron for $75-100, but I don't know what difference cast iron might make with heat issues. Another thought was welding ($30-40), but it might just break in a nearby spot since it's an old exhaust manifold. But I don't know. In case it's relevant, the entire exhaust system on the car is still the original one. I'd prefer to not buy a new one. Anyone have experience with the other three options (buy used / welding / buy aftermarket)? Thanks!
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Where ever you buy the exhaust manifold it is probable going to be made by Dorman.
    The Honda manifold is cast iron .
    Some includes Gaskets and Hardware.

    Try local suppliers first to save shipping cost or find lowest shipping on net.

    These two web sites are really the same outfit, they just list price and shipping different.
    $131.16 total includes shipping.
    http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/basket.php?add_item_id=7777051
    http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?N=1631+10605+4294966982+9339

    :) $67.33 total includes shipping.
    No gaskets, go to auto parts store and buy
    http://www.doctorautoparts.com/exhaust-manifold-em--60028-item.html

    I have purchased from these outfits with no problem.

    Watch out for the O2 sensor, if you break it, big bucks
    Make sure mounting brackets on the exhaust pipe under the oil pan are in good shape. This is a double wall pipe and the brackets are welded to the outer wall and break loose. They can be welded back, big bucks for a new pipe.
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    I have replaced manifolds many times, I say your best choice is buy a used one from a local auto wrecking yard, and a new gasket set from auto parts store, A used one in thats in good shape should out last the car, also because its a original brand is best, If you weld it , it needs welded by a professional welder that knows what he is doing, but the weld probably will brake again in a few years, because that manifold has to much deterioration so its best to get another good used one and it should out last the car. I have did this many times, no need to spend big bucks on buying a new one.
  • sunhondasunhonda Member Posts: 5
    I have a '96 Accord EX Coupe, A/T, 155K mi. I have gone 50 miles highway beyond when the gas light stays on, not just comes on, and 40 mi. in stop and go traffic. And don't let it concern you because the gas gauge needle actually drops a little below the "E" on the gauge. I constantly take it 30+ mi. past. I trust the gas light, so far, and haven't run out of gas yet. There always seems to be at least two gallons in the tank left, based on what it took filling it up, so I'm guessing I could go past that 50 mi. all the time, but I don't know at what point the car might stop running even though there's gas left in the tank, and don't need to find out. FWIW, I almost always use Chevron (no ties to Chevron). Also, I get about 350 mi., combined hiway/city, per fill up.
  • techman41973techman41973 Member Posts: 83
    With my 97 Accord pushing 260K, I am burning about a 1/2 quart every 3-5K. It would be great to know how much oil volume is represented between the two dipstick notches, so I can just add an educated amount of oil each time I notice I am low. Does anyone have this information?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Why not just run the level down to the low mark on the dip stick, add 1/4 qt and recheck level, repeat till you get to the full mark?

    Mrbill
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    It should be 1 quart from the low mark to the full mark, but you would have to do it Mrbill's way to find out for sure. Add a little at a time, till you get to the low mark, then start with a fresh quart. See if it holds true.
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    Car has been fine! The fixed power antenna stopped working... Again... Luckily I know how to fix it but I just need a rainless day to do it. 120,500 on the clock (more but odometer stopped working... Then started again...)

    On a sidenote, the "Maintenance Reminder" is rolling from green to the next color. Water pump, timing belt and all other belts, spark plugs and wires all replaced already. All I honestly know I need is an air filter and the brake pads are slowly starting to give out a short squeal. Anything else to take note of before I reset it?

    Btw, any air filter recommendations?
    95 Accord Ex v6

    MPG Update
    215-230 miles between fillups 80%city or about 17.5mpg City

    -Cj :)
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