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You may want to expand your search a bit. A great place to start is to check out tirerack.com.
BTW, siping is an option on tires from Les Schwab. You don't HAVE to have that done.
DESCRIPTION
Misfire detection is accomplished by monitoring the crankshaft speed with the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor which is attached to the crankshaft.
If misfiring strong enough to damage the catalyst is detected, the MIL will blink during the time of its occurrence, and DTC P0301, P0302, P0303 and/or P0304 will be stored. Then, after the misfire has ceased, the MIL will come on.
If misfiring that increases emissions is detected during two consecutive driving cycles, the MIL will come on, and DTC P0301, P0302, P0303 and/or P0304 will be stored.
NOTE: If some of the DTCs listed below are stored at the same time as a misfire DTC, troubleshoot those DTCs first, then troubleshoot the misfire DTC.
P0106: MAP sensor
P0171, P0172: Fuel supply system
P0401, P1491, P1498: EGR system
P0441: EVAP incorrect purge flow*
P1359, P1361, P1362: TDC sensor
P1381, P1382: CYP sensor
*: Sedan KL (SE, LX without ABS)/Wagon
Possible Cause
* Fuel injector clogging, fuel leakage, air leakage
* Fuel injector circuit open or shorted
* Injector resistor malfunction
* Spark plug carbon deposits, fouling, malfunction
* Ignition wires open, leaking
* Distributor malfunction
* Compression low
* Valve clearance out of specification
Here is the odd part.
I found out specifically where the CEL will come on every time. On my 350+ mile drive up north the P0301 code (no other code or cylinder) would only come on when driving between 62-67 MPH in 5th gear and was feathering the gas to maintain speed. If I use 4th gear between 60-70MPH the misfire cyl 1 code will never appear.
Does this sound like an O2 sensor? If it is, could it be possible it would be just giving bad readings and not be actually bad? Possibly Mass Airflow Sensor?
I am thinking this is more RPM range + throttle position than anything exactly "speed" related. Any further ideas? Thank you for the help and info thusfar.
That's very important; time causes belts to deteriorate (just as other components). If the belt fails, you're looking at, to put it simply, engine failure. You'd need a replacement engine for the car.
Spend the $500; it can't be overlooked, and you're really on borrowed time. Just make sure when you have the timing belt done you get the water pump done. Most mechanics will tell you this since the big cost here is labor, and the same labor is required to do both. When I did mine, it was going to be $400 for the belt, or $478 for both ($400 + Water Pump Cost); there was no other labor charge for the pump. I own a '96 with the 2.2L I-4 engine (and the book says 90k, not 105k). If yours is a 4-cylinder and indeed a '97 model (as pictured below), it should be done at 90k miles. In 1998, they upped it to 105k.
I have had this car Krown'd (undercoated every year that I owned it since 2006). Is this even possible? Is there a such thing as 'surface rust' on these lines. Sorry that these are lame questions but I cannot see any way that lines this new could rust again so quickly ... even in the Great White North. The lines were exposed under the advisement of a mechanic (so that the crap would not accumulate in the shield).
Anyway, lame duck question, but how is this possible? I park it on asphault
Thanks,
TheLemon
Incidentally, I did just check the manual and it definitely says 105k, with the exception of 65k for extreme temperatures. I guess they changed it from 96 to 97.
Best,
Tim
Welcome - hope we can help!
Thanks
Most likely you need to bleed the air out of the coolant system.
Look for a bleed plug near or in the thermostat housing.
It is also possible to loosen the hose going to the heater to bleed the air.
Make sure the water valve in the hose going to the heater is open.
When the arm on the valve is inline with the hose the valve is open.
When the arm is 90 degree to the hose the valve is closed.
The operating linkage fails at times.
If you have air trapped in the system the water most likely will not go through the heater.
Been there done that
blink also car started raceing with high rpm will broken air temperture sensor cause this problem
Similar to the Check Engine light.
The number of blinks is the fault code.
Thi link shows how to check the D4 codes on a Acura, your Honda is probably the same
http://www.justanswer.com/questions/2luo1-1993-acura-4-dr-auto
Need to know the number of blinks
Some one may have info for the Honda.
What is the transmission doing?
Intake Air Temperature will not cause the D4 blink.
You would have a Check engine light for the IAT sensor
IAT sensor fault in system, poor start, high / low idle, poor mileage, etc
time what could be the cause of this be.can somebody help
If your cruise control works (maintains speed) the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) is good.
Don't let anyone tell you it is bad.
Honda calls the complete assembly a COMBINATION METER.
You can find Honda information here.
http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/
Been there done that.
heres a list of what got replaced while at the repair shop
Car has 148,000 miles so far
*timing belt
*HeadGasket set
*sparkplugs
*Intake Valve
*Exhaust valve
*thermostat
*payed a good 1400 to fix
im planning on driving to La soon, Kinda worried this whistling sound might be an early indication of worse to come lol. dont wanna break down while driving. car drives fine other thatn whistling sounds
-andrew
:confuse:
A mix of things was causing the problem.
A: The Ignition Coil was going bad.
B: The EGR valve was caked with carbon.
C: The OBDII Unit Needed Replaced.
I can't be sure about the plugs/wires, but they could have been part of the problem too.
I paid for the ignition coil myself $100 before finding out about Honda Service Bulletin 98-081. This warranties a long list of parts and the misfire code is one of those. This extends the warranty up to 150,000 miles or 14 years and since I am at 133,000 now all is well.
Thank you to everyone for your help and suggestions. It is good to get fresh ideas and more places to look when one is frustrated.
The other day though when I started the car it was idling higher than normal up to 3 rpms & reving up without me pushing on the gas. It's also not changing into gears & in order to change them I have to use the shift lock key.
Saw someone say it might be brake interlock switch, however I don't know & would like expert opinions.
(Also, this might sound stupid but the 'brake light' light has been on since I got the car too & my brake lights work just fine.)
If not that, then it's electronic, in the control modules or servos.
i know that the 94s and maybe the 95s also have a factory defect with the rivet in the parking brake rod getting stuck.
my car has idled high ever since i've had it and my dad says that is due to the timing being off and to change the timing belt (have done so three times since and it still does it though).
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