My mechanic tells me the diagnostics report says the ORVR on my 1999 Accord V6 has failed. Well, at 110,000 miles it's about the first thing that ever broke so no big deal.
However, he says it's 7 hours of labor because he has to remove the gas tank and a lot of other huge and ugly stuff.
I read on one site that this can be accessed through the trunk - the guy said he actually cut a hole in the bottom of the trunk and got it done a it faster and with less disruption. BTW - he did it with metal shears so he didn't make sparks that would have blown him, and his Honda, up into the sky.
Does anyone have any insight? I'd sure like to save a bunch of money on labor.
If I were going to do the job myself, I would do it the right way, with a shop manual, rather than cutting a hole in my trunk. The gas tank is not that hard to remove, when empty, You just have to do it, and not try short-cuts, that usually don't work. Just my opinion, of course.
Never heard of this failing outside of tank-toppers.
I'm not implying that you do this (really; random things wear out and go bad when cars age - I have a '96 so I understand ), but for those that top off their gas tank, trying to get every last drop in there, remember how expensive this can be. When the pump clicks off, be done pumping; repairing the Vapor Recovery System is apparently not cheap!
I have 98 accord and the door locks make a grinding noise when I try to lock them from either the driver or passenger side. I tried to pull out the fuse and just do it manually, buy the car wont start if I do. So what am I doing wrong? Please help..Dave Gale
I have a 1998 Accord EX that is in excellent condition. At the beginning of Nov. the check engine light came on but I didn't think much of it but on Thanksgiving Day, I started the car and the instrument panel lights didn't come on and haven't yet.
I took it to the garage, thinking it was a fuse or something simple.
It isn't the fuse and they can't find the problem or seem to fix it.
Does anyone know how to replace the lighting for the milage indicator? Wife is complaigning about it and I guess there is a need to pull the dash panel but I need to know if its a light bulb or what before I go to that extreme.
Just finished going through my entire vapor recovery system in my 98 Accord. They usually dont fail too often. i have 214,000 on the car. Found out that the vapor recovery system was still going and working like it is supposed to. next was the romoval of the gas tank. Not too difficult preferably a two man job. But, since i had no help i did it. myself. Had three rusted out pinm holes on top front of gas tank, which explains why i kept getting a code in the vapor recovery system. vapor was actually escaping from these pin holes. Repaired them by putting plain old bondo over the pin holes. Works like a charm. Time to buy new rims so it looks good on the street. it is old and it deserves them after all these miles. If you have any questions just ask. I will be molre than happy to answer them. free of charge. I just love working on cars. Dr. Spark
I have a 1999 honda accord with little heat that comes out of the vents. Plenty of air, just not very hot, luke warm at best depending on how high i set the fan speed. I have checked the control panel, that is ok, i have changed out the t-stat, i have checked the heater control unit and the tests out ok, I checked the radiator hoses while the car is running, the top one is kinda hot to the touch but the bottom radiator hose is cold. This does not seem reasonanble considering what i have checked or repaired, can any one please help me with this situation? The weather is getting very cold and it's really hard to defrost the windows
I have a 2000 Honda Accord 5-speed with about 160,000 miles. When I depress the clutch pedal in the morning, when the car first starts, I can feel a pulsating sensation. The pulsating goes away after the car warms up and has run for a while.
Yes, Hank. It is a tiny lamp that needs to be replaced. My friend/mechanic brought one over and showed me how to remove the instrument panel and replace. Easy enough to do but I don't know where he got the bulb - not listed in the car manual. Maybe check with Advanced Auto or even dealer - can't be that expensive.
Above is a Honda dealer website where you can buy the bulbs. It takes a while to navigate through some screens to find the items you need. They are good at answering your questions if you don't know where the look for certain items.
Review the photos and find out how many bulbs are affected by Odometer and all IP back lighting. Don't just replace one bulb, replace them all so you don't have to revisit this issue a few months down the road.
The website is good for buying OEM floormats, cabin fiter, Honda OEM wheelcovers, air filter, and any inexpensive worn looking items.
My 1999 V6 coupe started stalling out at various stoplights. Very unpredictable and dangerous. I took it to the mechanic who cleaned out the idle air control valve and changed out the spark plugs for about $165. The car has 80,000 miles on it. The car no longer stalls out, and the engine seems to have about 15 percent more power to it. The mechanic didn't change out the spark plug wires or distributor cap. Is this okay?
I would say that the spark plugs really don't last 100,000 miles and it is better to change them at around 75,000 or more miles. What are other people's experience with this?
I don't think a 99 V6 would have the old type spark plug wires (electronic ignition). There is a sperate coil now, for each plug. No spark plug wires, distributor cap, or rotor to change. My original spark plugs are going on 72k miles, so I plan to change them soon (75k maybe). I already purchased the plugs, and they are not cheap. $10.00 per plug is the lowest price I've seen for the iridium-tipped long-life plugs (NGK or Denso).
The back panel (that faces the right rear passenger) of the front passenger seat has fallen off. On the panel itself, there are 2 "fingers" at the top that slide up into the seat keeping it from falling out. At the bottom are 2 holes that receive screws that come out of the seat.
The fingers are easy. They just slide up. The bottom holes and screws are the problem.
Can anyone tell me how to secure this panel properly?
From your description, I'm not sure where your having problems, is it with locating and aligning holes for the screws?. What I use is a long ice pick shaped tool. Insert it through the plastic panel, and locate the screw hole while holding the panel back a ways so you can see the hole in the seat frame. Once located, push the panel in place, then remove the pick and install the screw.
Are the holes in the seat frame stripped?, if so, you will need to replace the existing screws with a slightly larger diameter screw.
My 2000 Accord 4 cylinder is hard to start in this cold weather. The battery checked o.k., per my mechanic; he didn't volunteer any other reasons or problems. It does start, but just struggles to do so. Thanks in advance for any ideas! :confuse:
I am not sure how the back cover of seat came off as they are very tightly in place. I have taken the back off on my 94 and 08 Accords before to smooth out the lower back seat bulge.
The white plastic push pins in back cover off front seats are the type that slide in/out in the back seat cover frame. You need to buy two new plastic push pins at about $1.50 each from a Honda dealer. Once these pins are used, they deform and will not hold shape or tension.
Take both old push pins out and replace with the new ones. Slide in the two large plastic tabs in top of the back seat cover in place. Using a flashlight, lay down on rear floor mat and VISUALLY align and place the new push pins in holes in back seat frame. Once each push pin is aligned, firmly tap on seat back where the push pins are. The pins will press in and lock in holes.
There is a recall for seat belts. My SRS light came on about a year ago and it was covered under the recall. Of course, the light might come on due to other factors as well.
My SRS light has been on in my 2002 Accord V6. I never received a recall and I can't locate one. Do you have more info on this recall so I know if it effects my car?
You can call your local Honda Dealer Service Dept. and give them your VIN number, and they can check whether there are any outstanding recalls on your vehicle. The only one I have seen relates to the Ignition interlock.
The seat belts are covered under a lifetime warranty, so the SRS light could be covered.
I have a 98 Accord V6. The SRS light came on a couple weeks ago. I do have a OBD II device and was wondering if anyone knows if these devices can be used to read the SRS codes or is it specific to the Check Engine light?
Also, from what I've read, seems the seatbelt recall only applies to the 2001-2002 models?
We have two accords 2000 and 2001 and both have had SRS dash lights. That is a dealer manditory repair at ther expence. Lifetime warrantee on safety item. It is not a recall Item but a failed safety item. :lemon: Check with NTSB if any problems. Kurt
May want to have some one check your distributor cap. I am not a mechanic but have a 95 Accord - 4cycl. I had this problems years ago and found out I needed a new distributor cap. It would struggle to start and then one day would not start at all if it was real cold and had never had problems with it b4. As soon as the temp rose abt a few degrees it was fine. Found out had a bad distributor cap. No problems since then. That was abt 7 yrs ago.
I put my car in D4 and it was slow to move. Moved it to D3 and still same response, however, the D4 light on the dash kept blinking. Anyone know what this means? I am hoping minor, and not a transmission problem.
There is a PCB located under the front passanger floor bord that contains a "Printed Circuit Bord" that controls your trans. There are Burned or bad parts on that bord that will need to be replaced. under 5.00 for the parts at radio shack !!!!!This was my problem also. you will locate repair info or replace the bord if you dont want to do the work Search for "2001 Honda accord trans circuit bord" and you should locate information required to repair or replace that bord.
My 2001 Honda accord v6 has been leaking oil for during the last week. It is brown and is leaking from the center front, sort of where puddles occur after you turn off the air conditioner. The leak is about 1 by l foot.
Any ideas as to whether I am looking at a big repair bill? The car has 189,000 miles and I have not had problems before this leak. thanks.
I am having problem with the temp control knob that it kinds of stuck in only blowing warm/hot air at times, and at other times only cold air.
Right now it's only blowing hot air irrespective of moving the knob towards hot, the mecahnic suggested replacing 'Blend Door Actuator' also known as
006 79160-S84-A01 MOTOR ASSY., AIR MIX
under heator control parts.
Wanted to check if anyone has seen similar issue, and had been suggested the same, in case, did you change it yourself and how easy is it ? Is it located under the dash ? Any help locating this would be much appreciated.
I read about the same problem in many earlier posts but no solutions. i have a 2000 honda accord ex and had "D" light flashing at 107k miles. Went to the dealer in 2008 and he quoted $3.xk to replace the tranny. I showed him the class action law suit about Honda extending their warranty on trans with 110K on their 2000+ models. I got my transmission replaced for free.
Now i am at 160k and my transmission has a problem only for the first 5 minutes during cold start. if i keep my car ON for 5 mins or if i drive my car with shifting and jerking problem for 5 minutes, everything is alright after that.
I explained all these and left the car at the dealer again to check. The dealer asked me to replace transmission *again*. But honda does not make this transmission anymore so he should order it from a private company in California for $2600 with parts and labour $3800 overall..
i really do not know which direction to go, it is a fine car unless it is warmed up for 5 minutes. i really don't think it is a transmission problem, if not, experts out there.. please give your suggestions.
The transmission they put in for you has a 3/36 warranty. They'll give you another one. I've had 3 replacement trannies in my 2000 4 cyl accord. To be honest, the original transmission is probably the best one you'll ever have in your accord. The replacements (including the current one that clunks routinely) are nowhere near as good as the original. I think once you replace the tranny in one of those models it will become a routine every 20k miles or so.
I had three rebuilt trannies in my 4cyl 2000 accord and they are not as good as the original. (see my post #1799) Although you have gone past 36,000 on this rebuilt transmission they may consider cutting you some slack on another one since it is a known problem - honda transmissions from those years. If not, you'll have to consider what you are willing to spend on another transmission that will probably fail in about the same number of miles as the rebuilt one that is currently in your car.
Someone is bound to have a fix for these transmissions. This is been going on since 1996 when OBD 11 was installed in most cars. It is still not rocket science. Surely someone has found out what part is malfunctioning or is the PCM program harming the transmission may be because of its constant locking and unlocking the TCC( possibly more than necessary) .That the problem came about just about the same time that OBD 11 came out, mostly in 1996. Of the thousands of people working on thousands of these transmissions someone is bound to come up with at least some idea of how to fix it. Honda and Acura sales and integrity are taking a beating which affects all of the people all the way down the Honda and Acura sales and service line. It is the best car in the world for the money. If we can't get our heads together and work together to correct this problem this could be the demise of Honda and of our jobs and integrity. 14 years is ridiculously long for people of our caliber to let a major problem like this go. It seems like R&D needs to get out in the field more and quit studying their computers quite so much. Don't wait up to three months for a broken transmission to get back to the factory. Talk to the technician, study his notes, scanner outputs, and take detailed notes of the ways the cars are driven and serviced. This could save or run our careers. I have had many customers in my small shop that will buy Toyota or Kia next time because of these problems. Except for this transmission those two cars are much more expensive to maintain.
no problem finding the holes. not sure how to get the screws in the holes and hold while at the same time keep the fingers at the top in place. do i have to remove the leather material temporarily to make sure the screws are in and tight?
I bought a 2001 honda accord, so far its great, no issues at all. LOL i can't find the damn ashtray and cigarette lighter in the car. I has the 12volt outlet. Was the ashtray and cigarette lighter an option ? LOLOLO I know its a really stupid question
I know you didn't ask me, but my grandmother has 2002 Accord, and my folks have had a 2000 and a 2001 model. The car didn't come with an ashtray. That stopped in 1997 Accords. I have a '96 model with one that I'll trade ya for your '01.
My wifes 01 lx accord had an ashtray, it was taken out when she added a cassette player. Sat just below the radio, dont rmember if there was a lighter or not, but there is a powere outlet on center consol just up from the trnas selector.
Does yours also have a cassette player if so it may have been removed or if you got the ex (?) lowere version it just may not have had an ashtray!
ok i see there is a little storage door under the radio and its empty. So the previous owner must had it removed before buying the car way back in 2001
My rear running lights were not working. I purchased new tights, checked the fuses, and the running lights still won't work. The hazard lights, brake lights, and turn signals are working correctly. I'm looking for a way to trouble shoot and resolve this problem.
Comments
My mechanic tells me the diagnostics report says the ORVR on my 1999 Accord V6 has failed. Well, at 110,000 miles it's about the first thing that ever broke so no big deal.
However, he says it's 7 hours of labor because he has to remove the gas tank and a lot of other huge and ugly stuff.
I read on one site that this can be accessed through the trunk - the guy said he actually cut a hole in the bottom of the trunk and got it done a it faster and with less disruption. BTW - he did it with metal shears so he didn't make sparks that would have blown him, and his Honda, up into the sky.
Does anyone have any insight? I'd sure like to save a bunch of money on labor.
I'm not implying that you do this (really; random things wear out and go bad when cars age - I have a '96 so I understand
TheGrad
At the beginning of Nov. the check engine light came on but I didn't think much of it but on Thanksgiving Day, I started the car and the instrument panel lights didn't come on and haven't yet.
I took it to the garage, thinking it was a fuse or something simple.
It isn't the fuse and they can't find
the problem or seem to fix it.
Anybody had this problem
Kurt
Thanks Hank
Dr. Spark
Thanks,
Aelik
http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/
Above is a Honda dealer website where you can buy the bulbs. It takes a while to navigate through some screens to find the items you need. They are good at answering your questions if you don't know where the look for certain items.
Review the photos and find out how many bulbs are affected by Odometer and all IP back lighting. Don't just replace one bulb, replace them all so you don't have to revisit this issue a few months down the road.
The website is good for buying OEM floormats, cabin fiter, Honda OEM wheelcovers, air filter, and any inexpensive worn looking items.
Joe
Any ideas?
The car no longer stalls out, and the engine seems to have about 15 percent more power to it. The mechanic didn't change out the spark plug wires or distributor cap. Is this okay?
I would say that the spark plugs really don't last 100,000 miles and it is better to change them at around 75,000 or more miles. What are other people's experience with this?
The fingers are easy. They just slide up. The bottom holes and screws are the problem.
Can anyone tell me how to secure this panel properly?
Thanks and Happy New Year.
Are the holes in the seat frame stripped?, if so, you will need to replace the existing screws with a slightly larger diameter screw.
Mrbill
Kurt
Any ideas or suggestions
The white plastic push pins in back cover off front seats are the type that slide in/out in the back seat cover frame. You need to buy two new plastic push pins at about $1.50 each from a Honda dealer. Once these pins are used, they deform and will not hold shape or tension.
Take both old push pins out and replace with the new ones. Slide in the two large plastic tabs in top of the back seat cover in place. Using a flashlight, lay down on rear floor mat and VISUALLY align and place the new push pins in holes in back seat frame. Once each push pin is aligned, firmly tap on seat back where the push pins are. The pins will press in and lock in holes.
Joe
The seat belts are covered under a lifetime warranty, so the SRS light could be covered.
Also, from what I've read, seems the seatbelt recall only applies to the 2001-2002 models?
Please advise.
Thanks!
It is not a recall Item but a failed safety item. :lemon: Check with NTSB if any problems.
Kurt
you will locate repair info or replace the bord if you dont want to do the work
Search for "2001 Honda accord trans circuit bord" and you should locate information required to repair or replace that bord.
Krt :shades:
Any ideas as to whether I am looking at a big repair bill? The car has 189,000 miles and I have not had problems before this leak. thanks.
I am having problem with the temp control knob that it kinds of stuck in only blowing warm/hot air at times, and at other times only cold air.
Right now it's only blowing hot air irrespective of moving the knob towards hot, the mecahnic suggested replacing 'Blend Door Actuator' also known as
006 79160-S84-A01 MOTOR ASSY., AIR MIX
under heator control parts.
Wanted to check if anyone has seen similar issue, and had been suggested the same, in case, did you change it yourself and how easy is it ?
Is it located under the dash ?
Any help locating this would be much appreciated.
I read about the same problem in many earlier posts but no solutions. i have a 2000 honda accord ex and had "D" light flashing at 107k miles. Went to the dealer in 2008 and he quoted $3.xk to replace the tranny. I showed him the class action law suit about Honda extending their warranty on trans with 110K on their 2000+ models. I got my transmission replaced for free.
Now i am at 160k and my transmission has a problem only for the first 5 minutes during cold start. if i keep my car ON for 5 mins or if i drive my car with shifting and jerking problem for 5 minutes, everything is alright after that.
I explained all these and left the car at the dealer again to check. The dealer asked me to replace transmission *again*. But honda does not make this transmission anymore so he should order it from a private company in California for $2600 with parts and labour $3800 overall..
i really do not know which direction to go, it is a fine car unless it is warmed up for 5 minutes. i really don't think it is a transmission problem, if not, experts out there.. please give your suggestions.
thanks
Waste
I bought a 2001 honda accord, so far its great, no issues at all. LOL i can't find the damn ashtray and cigarette lighter in the car. I has the 12volt outlet. Was the ashtray and cigarette lighter an option ? LOLOLO I know its a really stupid question
Silvio
Mine has 208k miles... :shades:
Does yours also have a cassette player if so it may have been removed or if you got the ex (?) lowere version it just may not have had an ashtray!